Heating Help

www.knowsomethingmore.com Oh yes, it is a condenser. 95%+ eff. Tim

It looks amazing, very well done. And that boiler looks really cool. Is the stainless required on the exhaust? I like it but man that's like a thousand dollar exhaust pipe. Are there primary and secondary temp sensors on the secondary circuit? Where is the condensate drain? Is that the small white box on the bottom left? Is the large vent in the middle capped?

Tim

Boler looks great, the HWH .... not so good. Here in Mass we would be resposible for that and even if the customer was "thinking" about replacing it, we would not be allowed to leave that gas piping nor that flue venting. I also think the flex piping exceeds the manufactures specs for distance with out a hanger or support. Scott To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

the vent is...

AL 27C Stainless... you probably will see more boiler mag. going to this. Especially were the pvc mfg. don't certify pvc for exaust venting....kpc

There are water in & water out sensors, and an ODA sensoe for the reset. The vent opening wilol have a cap. The white box is the cond pump, and I ahve to build a neutralizer for the condensate as the house has CI pipes. Tim

Here the inspector may kill the HWH next week on inspection, but I have no obligation to even look at the WH. I will straighten out the vent & gas and cap the old vent, but otherwise it is not my baby! I will purchase a strap while I am out today...I only had copper straps on site and that line is very solid...Thanks, Tim

Tim

Just a note for future reference, if you didn't notice; the wiring options in Appendix A, Page 51 of the Boiler manual allow IAR with the use of your SR50x cicrculator relay control. Also, make sure there are no kinks in the condensate tube. Annoying callbacks will result when the condensate backs up. Nice job. Jed

????

Nice neat piping on your side agree with everybody else on the WH not done by you but kind of drags yours down by association you know? What the heck is that yellow alien looking thing anyhow??

One great boiler, that's what it is! Two of my customers said it was the look of the boiler as well as the features that sold them... As for the WH, I was hoping that looking at that heater next to my piping would help sell the indirect...it would be cheap enough to straighten it up... Tim

cool I'm jealous fun project. Why use the pump relay control you dont need it I think the Ray can do that too.

May I ask how my install looks? Now 2 zones in the house and all in the ceiling. Tim

pre install pix

nice old ideal boiler pix thanks.i suppose it had to go off to remelt.hope the gauges will hang on someone's wall! its interesting to see that as the boilers get smaller the wall space needed to mount valves and pumps has increased! what does the bulbous gadget on the old one do? all verticals and horizontals are as they should be except for the old water heater flue. looks nice!--nbc

it is found in the 'ideal fitter' books, a Honeywell Heat Generator. That boiler would have gone another 110 years! Dan has it in the library also. It had mercury in it...Thanks, Tim

What does it weight?

650# or so... T

He is flirting with the indirect, but his call. I will check all combustion in the morning, but it has the entire basement to pull from as it is. The bypass is a post-purge item that is factory installed. Tim

Why the Post purge? Not an condenser? what's the efficiency?

Before & after...System heats very fast & even and runs great. Clean up & insulate tomorrow...Well??? Tim

Does that "Bypass Circ" come with the boiler and what is it for? Waterheater not old enough for replacement jet? Will the waterheater have enough draft like this ?

Yes it comes as part of the package with the

Ray from Mestek. It is a post purge circulator to cool the water after shut down.

Why didn't you

go with the IAR?

Suggestion

Tim, very nice, neat, concise work as always. My initial suggestion is on those capped manifold tees, the ones for potential future zones? I would have thrown in the flanges and valves now or at least the valves. Future fitters avoiding a drain-down will thank you. Personally, I never leave dead-end tees but valve them and yes, I often put a nipple and cap on the outlet of those to avoid a, "hey what does this lever do?" episode. Other than that (and that thing standing over on the right), nice job and a nice looking boiler that Ray. Brad

Really great install.

I'm sorry but I just can't get past the water heater. Flexible everything. ..and what's up with that giant soda? That was my attempt at humor. It rarely goes well. I think it's an install you can be proud of. To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Pumps look too big...

but that is probably because the first picture doesn't have a pump:-) I fought with a gravity one pipe hot water ehating system the other day (Marvel fitting?) Anyway, I came up with an idea to use a pump and a time delay relay and a motor speed controller. When the pump is first called on, it turns on and moves the water in the proper direction for say 5 minutes. Just long enough to get things rolling and warming, then, the time delay relay kicks and you drop the speed of the pump through a SCR (Fan speed motor controller) to a MUCH lower speed, like almost off.. Gravity Enhancer.... (CORRECTION, it is a Eureka Fitting, not a MARVEL fitting...) ME

i would

have cleaned up that water heater gas line. kind of like a picture skewed on a wall, just gotta straighten it.

very nice bro

mad dog To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

I agree with Brad, also I would add that the electrical could be cleaned up a bit. I try to use as much hard pipe as possible, and another tick I like is to run the flex through a section of hard tubing as far as you can along the wall before whiping into a circulator. That way you have a nice hard tube to put your level on. I LOVE the use of unistrut and I may leave my wife for the expansion tank strap bracket. I have a neat little trick for the boiler feed valve that hard to explain, maybe I'll post a picture of a neat service set up for that valve. Thats a quality install Tim, anything we could possibly say is simply nitpicking. Great install. To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Very nice work

clean and accurate, well thoughtout. I though the bypass was to prevent hot spots in the cast iron section? And not required in all cases? Looks like an interesting concept for a boiler, time will tell. I'd worry about that masonery chimney mass with only a small WH flue dumping into it, it may never warm and draft properly?? Plus the horizontal run to the rise distance looks off? Better include a good quality CO detector just to protect all. Or offer the indirect install at your cost and everybody wins, and stays out of court. hr

Thanks fellas. The pic was taken at 8 PM before I left, and since I straightened the vent & gas line on that WH, capped the old vent, and did reduce the indirect to cost, but it is still their call. Water heater vents at -.01 WC and stack temp & CO are fine. I like Brad's idea, and may just do that. I did not go with IAR because I used pumps, and not ZVs. The OAR does a fine job of modulating it down. It was 63* today and it ran for hours at 20% or less. That stainless vent was several hundred $$. This boiler is whisper quiet at all levels of modulation and really is install friendly once it is in. When I am insulated & done, I will put a drop-cloth over that water heater for my final pics to not detract from my picasso! Thanks again, Tim

Real nice, Tim

Brad made some good points. Also, if I may add to them, I always put a ball valve between the system and the fill valve. If the reducer goes bad, no need to drain much, if anything. I couldn't leave that water heater alone, if it were me. I'm always straightening something up :)

AL29-4C (NM)

I stand corrected....

nm