Heating Help

Beckett burner banging real bad

I just installed a new Burnam boiler along with a Becket burner in my home. Everything is set to specs. The burner bangs so loud on startup that it wakes me at night. I have had 3 different serviceman so far come and set it up. Everything has been done, smoke test, efficiency test, electrodes set, fuel pump pressure set, lines checked for air leaks and anything else that can be set or checked. It has the recommended nozzle 85-60 and have even changed to 4 different nozzles to see if there was a difference. Burner runs great, plenty of heat and no other problems. But the banging is getting me to the point that I am either going to get ear plugs or throw the whole thing out. It has only been in use for 3 weeks. Can anyone help me out?
Thanks

Banging Beckett:

What model Burnham do you have?
My solution for banging Becketts is a Carlin EZ-1. Far less complicated.
"Banging" is usually caused by delayed ignition.

Beckett burner banging real bad

It is a VH83 water. Already checked delayed ignition. First thing checked and it's ok

One more thing I forgot, if I add more air which decreases efficiency and adds more smoke to the smoke test the banging decreases a little. Any help?

Bangin' Beckett

Adding more air normally decreases smoke. Is the banging coming from the chamber or the burner its self ?

Beckett burner banging real bad

chamber

Which Beckett?

Is it an AFG, AFII, or NX?

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AFG

Beckett burner banging real bad

Ok I just went downstairs again. I'm getting screwed up making so many changes to stop banging. Good thing I have a marked starting point.
If I decrease the air the banging isn't as loud but the burner roars like a blowtorch and I hear that instead. As soon as I bring the shutter back to the original point it starts banging again from the chamber. I can get rid of the banging completely by closing down the air but then the efficiency will suffer so bad and it really ROARS.

Air changes

Your noticing a change with the air change. Are you sure the "Z" dimension is correct? Is the head positioned right in the chamber?
   Is this a very low bang noise? You will notice some as the new units have solenoid valves that open at full pressure.
   




R. W. Beckett


TECHNICAL
INFORMATION



FROM: Technical Information Bullitin

DATE: December 2000

PART: 664852



SOLVING RUMBLES AND PULSATIONS

Combustion noise can occur in three major areas: at start-up, during the
run cycle, and at shutdown. The following information is provided to
help you effectively troubleshoot these areas.



RUMBLES AT START-UP




COMBUSTION NOISE AT START-UP is a rumble that
is heard at the beginning of the call for heat.


DRAFT PROBLEMS: Follow the manufacturer’s
specifications for draft measurements and adjust the barometric damper,
if applicable.
LOW DRAFT: Inspect the heat exchanger
for any restrictions. Look for restrictions in the flues or the chimney.
Search to see if there are any cleanouts left open in the chimney.

HIGH DRAFT: Adjust the barometric damper, if applicable.
If the draft remains high after the barometric damper has been adjusted,
a second barometric damper could be considered. Sometimes a chimney cap
can be helpful to lower the draft.






INADEQUATE STATIC PRESSURE: Verify the correct burner
for the application. Consult the Beckett OEM (Original
Equipment Manufacturer) Specification
Guide (part number 6711) to ensure the proper burner specifications
have been applied. If the appliance model is not found in the OEM Specification
Guide, please contact Beckett Technical Service at 1-800-645-2876 for further
assistance.



BURNER STATIC PRESSURE CAPACITY: The AF, AFG, and AFII
burners differ in the amount of static pressure that each can produce. See
Figure A. The blower in an oil burner provides a sustained volume of high
air pressure on start-up to overcome any back pressure due to heat exchanger
design or low draft.







AIRGUIDE: A common error made with
the AFG and other high static pressure burners is the removal of the
airguide from the housing. PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE THE AIRGUIDE FROM
THE BURNER. If the airguide has been removed there will be extremely
poor and erratic combustion.



GASKETS: Replace any defective gaskets,
which can contribute to a loss of static pressure at burner start-up.
Use Beckett gasket kit part number 51304 with AFG burners. See Figure
B.







MOTORS: When replacing the motor, select
a motor incorporating a closed face or a motor with ventilation openings
that are within the circumference of the blower wheel. See Figure C.
This will prevent a loss of static pressure at burner start-up and during
the run cycle.



BLOWER WHEELS: When installing the blower
wheel onto the AFG motor shaft, make sure it is positioned so that the
distance between blower wheel backplate and motor face is 3/64" ± 1/64".
A larger distance than what is specified may also contribute to a loss
of static pressure.







ELECTRODES NOT POSITIONED CORRECTLY: Proper
electrode settings are essential. See Figure D. Beckett offers a multi-purpose
T500 gauge to assist you in making proper electrode settings.



EXCESSIVE COMBUSTION AIR: The burner
must be adjusted to have the proper air-to-fuel ratio. Follow these
four steps to properly adjust the burner:

• Set the burner air controls to obtain a trace of smoke level at
  a steady state condition, with the draft set to the appliance manufacturer's
  specifications.
• At the trace of smoke level, measure the CO2 or O2.
• Increase the air settings until the CO2 is reduced by 1 to 2 percentage
  points from the trace of smoke level, or the O2 is increased by
  2 to 3 percentage points.
• Perform another smoke test. It should be zero. You have provided
  a margin to accommodate variables such as changing drafts, cold
  oil, or other factors that could be encountered during the heating
  season.
• 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  HIGH OIL VISCOSITY: Viscosity is resistance
  to flow. Lower temperatures increase the oil viscosity, causing a
  significant impact on the ignition of the oil droplets.
  
  
  
  This condition can be improved by reducing the
  nozzle size (gph) while increasing the pump pressure (psig) to obtain
  the required firing rate for the application. See Figure E. This will
  produce smaller droplets of fuel which are easier to vaporize and
  ignite.
  
  
  The use of a nozzle line heater will help a cold
  oil start. Use Beckett Start Helper part number 51621.
  
  
  Blending No. 2 fuel oil with 25% or more of No.
  1 fuel oil (kerosene) will lower the viscosity and pour point.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  PULSATIONS
  
  
  
  
  PULSATIONS are caused by a loss of flame stability during the burner run cycle.
  
  
  EXCESSIVE COMBUSTION AIR: A properly adjusted oil burner
  can eliminate pulsations. For proper burner adjustments, refer to "Excessive
  Combustion Air" on page 2.
  
  
  OIL SUPPLY PROBLEMS: Loose or defective fittings can
  cause air leaks that can contribute to pulsations during the burner operating
  cycle. This could be due to air that is pulled in through the oil supply
  and purged through the nozzle, causing an erratic spray pattern. Air leaks
  can be the result of using compression fittings. NEVER USE COMPRESSION FITTINGS
  IN AN OIL SUPPLY SYSTEM.
  
  
  GASIFICATION: Froth or bubbles are caused by some form
  of internal restriction in the oil supply line, such as a plugged fuel filter,
  a kink in the supply line, or sharp burrs on oil fittings. Gasification
  can also be caused by high vacuum in the oil supply. Consult the pump manufacturer's
  specifications for line sizing and maximum lift conditions.
  
  
  
  There are several methods that can be used to locate air leaks and bubbles. Listed below are four common procedures:
  
  
  
  
• Pressure Test Method (not more than 3 psig, in accordance with NFPA
  31 standards).
• Vacuum Test Method (should hold a vacuum of not less than 20”
  Hg for at least 30 minutes per NFPA 31 standards).
• Visual Test Method (using a clear plastic tube or a sight glass installed
  in the oil supply line).
• Electronic Sight Glass Method (this is probably the most effective
  method available, because air bubbles can be sensed without having to
  loosen any fittings).
• 
  
  
  For more information on locating air leaks and gasification, refer to
  the Beckett technical bulletin part number 664822 entitled Successfully
  Locating Suction Line Leaks.
  
  
  IMPROPER BURNER SPECIFICATIONS: The burner must be properly
  configured for the application. Consult the Beckett OEM Specification Guide
  (part number 6711) to be sure that the burner model, retention head, nozzle,
  pump pressure, solenoid valve, static plate, stop screw, head protector,
  low firing rate baffle, blower wheel, etc., are what have been specified.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  RUMBLES AT SHUTDOWN
  
  
  
  
  COMBUSTION NOISE AT SHUTDOWN occurs at the end of the operating cycle and is characterized by an audible rumble.
  
  
  
  
  PUMP CUTOFF PROBLEMS: Rumbles can occur
  at burner shutdown due to the cutoff of the fuel pump not holding
  under pressure.
  
  
  
  SLUGGISH CUTOFF: This can easily be checked by
  dead-heading a reliable oil pressure gauge in the copper connector
  tube. See Figure E. DO NOT INSTALL THE OIL PRESSURE GAUGE IN THE OPTIONAL
  GAUGE PORT FOR THIS CUTOFF TEST. All fittings must be tight. Start
  the burner. Adjust the pump to the specified pressure and shut the
  burner off. The cutoff pressure is typically 20% lower than the operating
  pressure level. If the cutoff is sluggish or significantly lower than
  the 20% level, but still holds, replace the pump or install a solenoid
  valve.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ELECTRODES NOT POSITIONED CORRECTLY: Proper
  electrode settings are essential. See Figure D. Beckett offers a multi-purpose
  T500 gauge to assist you in making proper electrode settings.
  
  
  
  EXCESSIVE COMBUSTION AIR: The burner
  must be adjusted to have the proper air-to-fuel ratio. Follow these
  four steps to properly adjust the burner:
  
  
  DEFECTIVE CUTOFF SEAT: To check for
  a defective or obstructed cutoff seat, follow the instructions as
  outlined in, "Sluggish Cutoff". If the pump pressure slowly drops
  to 0 psig, replace the pump.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  AIR TRAPPED IN NOZZLE LINE: During
  burner operation, trapped air is compressed to a smaller size at operating
  pressure. This is typically 7-10 times atmospheric pressure (atmospheric
  pressure is approximately 14.7 psi). At burner shutdown, the small
  compressed bubble rapidly expands 7-10 times, to its original size
  at atmospheric pressure forcing oil to squirt from the nozzle. See
  Figure G. Since the blower wheel is coasting to a stop, there is insufficient
  air to completely burn this expelled fuel, resulting in a rumble at
  shutdown. There are several factors that can contribute to this condition:
  
  
  
  When the nozzle line is removed for service, air
  replaces the oil that is drained from the nozzle line. This air mass
  will be broken into smaller bubbles and purged from the system by
  cycling the burner numerous times.
  
  
  
  
  
  Servicing the oil supply system allows air to accumulate.
  Make sure all fittings are leak-tight after servicing the filter or other
  components. Bleed the pump until all bubbles have been purged from the system.
  
  
  If the oil tank becomes empty, air will be introduced
  into the oil supply. Bleed the pump until all bubbles have been purged from
  the system.
  
  
  Air leaks and gasification can lead to rumbles at shutdown.
  Gasification reacts the same way as an air leak. Please refer to "Pulsations"
  on page 3 to assist in solving this problem.
  
  
  Hopefully, we have provided you with information that will help you understand
  and resolve rumbles and pulsations. Other potential causes may exist. The
  use of solenoid valves and controls with prepurge and postpurge functions
  can also provide solutions. Beckett offers a number of technical bulletins
  to assist you in solving service-related problems. For more information,
  we invite you to visit our web site at www.beckettcorp.com.
  You can also e-mail us at techservice@beckettcorp.com, or contact our Technical
  Service Hotline at 1-800-645-2876.
  
  
  
  
  Try Another Search:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Return to Beckett Home Page
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  1-800-OIL-BURN
  
  
  
  
  
  
  R.W.Beckett Corporation ~ P.O. Box 1289, Elyra, Ohio 44036-1289
  
  
  
  
  
  
  R.W. Beckett Canada Ltd. ~ Unit 3, 430 Laird Road, Guelph, Ontario, Canada N1G-3X7
  
  
  
  
  
  
  All rights reserved. Copyright 1999© R.W. Beckett Corporation
  

this should be easy to fix, its something simple

like too much draft. Thats likely why the burner roars when it shuts off, and bangs when it fires up.  What was the readings of the combustion test. I would also take a real close look at the fuel pump (cut off and coil side). PLEASE dont turn the air up or down, you dont want a plugged boiler. You need to find a service man that can fix this thing. Post a pic of the boiler and venting...

they are noisey

V series have and always will be louder than most. I would let a pro set and test it. Don't want it to soot up

Beckett burner banging real bad

As I have stated here on every post I have had 3 qualified oil burner service men here from three different companies. The last was her on Friday. He brought all his digital gauges, smoke detector, fuel pressure gauge and did his thing. All three have done the same thing with the same results. There is no soot, the paper for the soot test is pure white. I have even called Beckett and talked to the tech there. All I got from him was a lot of mumbo jumbo, change the rods by 1/32 move them up buy 2/32, take the pump apart and check for corrosion, come on it's three weeks old. The last guy that was here closed my damper and said leave it closed. All that did was quiet it down when it is running. I am at a loss, can't afford to call someone else. As far as a picture I can tell you everything. The damper is mounted 18" above the boiler and goes into a 90 then a 6" pipe 12" long and then into a adapter 6" to 8" and then into a chimney which is clay lined. I can take a picture tomorrow if needed. That's it.

Banging Solutions:

I at first thought that you were just getting a "bang" on initial start up. You are getting the "roar" and pulsating all through the range.
I have run into these symptoms on occasion and had very poor luck solving them. My final solution which has proven 100% effective is a brand new Carlin EZ-1. If you buy a "Burner In A Box" from them that is specifically set up for your boiler, it comes with the proper nozzle and you can get a yellow plastic gauge for setting the electrode assembly that works on all EZ-1,2 and 3 burners. I don't give up easily but experience has shown me that this can be a looser.
There's one possibly overlooked thing on those that I have seen cause these symptoms on occasion. Carbon deposits can and often collect on the the inside of the retention ring. You may not notice it. I take an old copper fitting brush and stick my large paw down the tube and brush it off. Some burners do it worse than others. But if they do it, it will drive one over the edge. It sounds like a few technicians came with the right equipment and couldn't resolve it. I'd consider a different burner. That one doesn't seem to work well in your application.

Why are you paying

service companies to resolve this if it was installed 3 weeks ago? The installer should be there to either make it right, or install a boiler that you can live with. Simple as that. Do you have a contract with the installer? I do feel for you, as I have done my best to quiet those things down for near 30 years. They are a loud boiler. Theys like to roar. I'd like to see pics. Personally I'd like to see the draft control in the horizontal run on those, and set with a gauge. Let us know how you make out

OP is installer

I think the original poster is the installer.

Beckett still banging

Thanks everyone for trying to help. First I am the installer, I put it in with my grandson. I sure am not going to buy another burner after paying so much for the Beckett. It was a package deal boiler and burner.
As far as the roaring, I can live with that it's the initial banging that is driving me crazy. For those that wanted a picture one is enclosed. The only thing I have left to do is change the romex to BX cable, I just wish I could get it to stop banging and I would be a happy camper. Sorry the picture is sideways.
Thanks again

Lazy/weak transformer?

Perhaps you have a lazy or weak transformer,  leading to delayed ignition.  Which causes banging on start-up.

Did anyone check the transformer?  Swap it out with a known good one?

Also could be fuel loss/air entering

You could also have air getting in between the pump and the nozzle from a drippy leak somewhere,  during shutdown.  Then at start-up, air with fuel sputters out the nozzle and blows out any flame that maybe started initially.  Full fuel flow is restored after the air gets out,  then ignites all the sputtered fuel with a loud bang.

Check the nozzle tube for cracks perhaps from over tightening the nozzle.  Also where the tube connects to the pump line.  If leaky,  air enters there and fuel drips out the nozzle,  further adding to the big bang at start up.

A Tiger Loop may help from what I have read.

What nozzle size?

I'd look into down firing if possible

Beckett burner banging

UPDATE
After reading some of the posts on here I did some checking. I took the solenoid off the pump and checked to see if there was any crap in there but it was clean. I also found some fuel oil on the outside  bottom of the burner which leads me to believe somewhere fuel is not shutting off. Also stepped down nozzle from 85 to 75. It still bangs but it's about 80% better than it was. Put a clear piece of hose on pump and drained fuel to see if I could see any air in hose but it looked good so no air leaks But after reading some posts here I'm leaning towards air in the line somewhere because after startup when it bangs, about 10 seconds later is is normal.. Now I have to figure out why I have fuel on the bottom of burner. Keep the hints coming, appreciate it very much.

air in fuel

1. bad pump gasket or wrong/mis-oriented gasket
   
2. bad pump diaphragm
3. partial blockage in fuel line - blow out the line back to tank
4. clogged fuel filter
5. filter gasket letting in air
6. airguide missing
7. transformer gasket leaking air - does not cause fuel leak,  but not good
   
8. oil valve not open/clogged
9. 
   Do you have an installed vacuum gauge on the fuel line?

http://www.beckettcorp.com/scripts/filesearch/techinfo/664852.shtml

HTH

"Z" dimension

Are you sure your "Z" dimension is set properly? The distance from the nozzle face to the combustion head flat surface. Not properly set will cause delayed ignition.

Try This

Possibly because you installed the boiler sideways! (just kidding)

I have found that sometimes now that the burner has pre-purge it will bang due to a cold oversized chimney, probably should be re-lined if it isn't. You can figure out if that is all it is by just removing the draft regulator and letting it start and stop with the opening wide, if that solves it you can make it better by dropping the draft regulator down on an "elephant trunk" made out of two ells, one pointing down from the tee and the next turning back to horizontal and mounting the draft regulator at the bottom of this setup, will look a bit odd but creates room for expansion before the draft regulator, sort of like a water hammer arrester. 

jcamp

adjusting the burner requires an analyzer. It can not be done by ear or eye. The proper tools in the hands of a trained person will take care of your issue.

Beckett burner banging real bad

Again thanks for all your help. When I left today burner was doing good, very little banging. Came home and it's banging again..I'm going to try all  the suggestions on here one at a time and see what happens. First I'm going to change the flue pipe and cut down the 8' adapter so most of it is in chimney and all that is outside is the 6' piece. The chimney is a 8" clay pipe. Someone here suggested getting a serviceman with the right equipment to set up burner. So far had 3 oil burner repair men here and it's still banging, none could figure it out. 

watch out for the big bang

i would move that acetaline tank away from the burner.try an 85.60a delavan and get used to the new burner.

that looks more like a fire extinguisher to me add :)

This wont end well, the real jerk here is the person/ wholesaler that sold you the boiler. I;ve work on a few v8;s over the years and agree the beckett is loud;'r. They work best with a Reillo (my thoughts) What is the inside diameter of your chimney? (8x8 ect) Those becketts get loud when theres too much draft you may need a second draft regulator. Look 4 a pro near you in the "find a contractor" section. This is a fix;able problem


side note, that oil line looks like hell. Are you using compression fittings? looks like its seep;n a wee bit. Do yourself a favour and run new protected line with flare fittings. This will help eliminate air problems

settings

I would echo "Z" dimension and electrode settings on that, as well as running a new line with flare fittings just to prevent a future leak. The burner is probably quiet after 10 seconds due to interrupted ignition. Electronic ignitors make for a roary start, but sounds like electrodes are not set to specs. As far as the oil leak, possibly when you bled the pump? Without putting a hose on the bleeder, oil will get drawn into the air gate. Possibly a low firing rate baffle might help with the .75 nozzle. Even though it should be running 140 psi and the GPH is not .75. I'd like to see the gun assembly out in a pic. Also on oil leaks, was the boiler leveled? Becketts luv to leak oil if not pitched towards the chamber

oil pressue

Has the oil pressure been checked? The draft measured and adjusted with a draft gauge?
    My spec book say you have an "L" head the positioning of the head is extremely critical if your loosening the acorn nut or set screw to get the drawer out to change nozzles it will do wild things.
The first problem listed in the bulletin is draft, It looks like you have a large flue.
     You will have a hard light off because the oil pressure is up. That should be like a "boof" you'll hear next to the boiler but shouldn't notice upstairs. Did they check to be sure there is nothing hanging loose in the chamber?
     Changing from company to company is not good idea. They don't know what the last tech did and will thy the most common things which the first guy already did.
    If it comes and goes pay attention to the chimney temperature and the wind breeze conditions when it fires. If it is worse with a hot or cold chimney. You may have to consider lining the chimney or a power vent if the double damper doesn't work.
     You are creating a small explosion so it will make some sound when it starts. You don't have the soft build up of oil pressure any more. It's hard to diagnose without being there. Sometimes weird things take several tries to find. You can't keep calling different companies and expect to see good results. You need to find someone with a good reputation and try to solve it. 10 guys doing the same things won't solve it.

Beckett burner banging real bad

Again thank all of you that have posted. I'll try to answer the best I can. The Z settings have been set and set again. It is set at 1 3/4 according to the book. Also electrodes have been set a few times with a Beckett gauge I did put a hose on the bleeder when I bled the unit.. The Beckett is level. Someone posted that I should hear a "boof" I hear a boof alright, it knocks me right out of bed. Nothing hanging in chamber, when we swung the burner to the side to set Z measurements I checked it out. Draft has been measured and oil pressure checked. When changing nozzles or setting electrodes only acorn nut and oil line is loosened. Set screw is still tight As far as changing companies the first tech was a friend of a friend, the second was my neighbor who is a HVAC tech and the third latest and greatest was from a local oil company but came after working hours. In fact I called him back the next day after he was here because of the banging. They all do the same thing like a robot, with their gauges and leave. Something I can't figure is after setting everything and bleeding oil line it is fine. It's starts it booming about 30 minutes later and continues. Going to try and change fittings today on oil line after Home Depot opens. Also chimney is 8X8 clay pipe. Hope this helps. Thanks I'm really getting frustrated now.

Flat or concentric

The flat head has a lip about 3/16" that is a straight bend, and is set to 1-3/8 inches; The concentric head is rounded and the total lip is close to, 1/2 inch and is set to 1-3/4 inchs.

   Do you have access to a good draft gauge? Your comment it starts about a half hour later. Leads me to question the chimney. As the chimney warms up you draft may be increasing. Try watching the draft reading as the chimney heats up see if there is a big difference. You may need to do as the one gentleman mentioned add another maybe 2 or more barometric damper(s) to get control of the draft.
    How are the temperatures where your at? Can you leave it off for an hour or more between cycles for the chimney to cool down before refiring it. If you don't get the bang when everything is cold I would look into the chimney.
    The book calls for a 60 degree hallow nozzle, have you tried a solid (B); a good chance putting an 80 degree solid might make an improvement. If an 80 improves it but is still loud go to a 90 degree. Your mist will be spreading out sooner, closer to the electrodes. If you have a strong draft, the narrow pattern of the 60 degree nozzle maybe being stretched even more and fuel mist going up into the sections before it gets back to the electrodes to light.  (Mark's theory; what can I say it comes from physic and engineering) Try some different spray patterns sometimes a "W" nozzle will work to quit them down.   The spray angle and pattern is selected upon lab conditions for best efficiency and operation. Something in your application is throwing it out of sink.
   Try to get an idea of what that chimney is doing. Too much draft  or not enough intake air are two of the biggest problem causers with the new smaller combustion chambers.

Sorry you are getting frustrated

It sounds like something is being missed. What else vents into this chimney? Is the clean outdoor sealed. Is it an outside or inside chimney? Are the oil lines Flared fittings( they should be)?

http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/133739/Beckett-burner-banging-real-bad

As to chimney it is an outside chimney. It does have an outside cleanout but it is closed. The door doesn't make an airtight seal though. I will go out and seal it shut since I have never had to clean it out, well maybe once in 20 years. It is right next to my fireplace, both are clay pipe enclosed in cement block.
What gets me is the boiler I had was 62 years old with a Beckett burner that was about 15 years old and it ran like a champ 83% efficiency but the boiler was starting to seep, that's why I am really ticked  off. I sure wish you guys lived close to me as it seems the local guys are a bunch of no nothings.

Where is there?

There must be someone that is close enough to work on it.

http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/133739/Beckett-burner-banging-real-bad

UPDATE
OK here is what I did today and we will see what happens. I put all   new  fittings along with a quick disconnect hose made for the Beckett on the burner today. It looked like I had a fitting that was weeping so I put all new from filter to burner. afterrunning it for a while there was no more oil on the bottom of the burner. I readjusted the electrodes to factory specs and checked the Z setting again. Now here is what is happening. With the damper open it is still banging but not as bad. With the damper closed it sounds like a normal burner coming on. What does this mean, we are getting close I hope.

oh well. I know I posted too quick. It's booming again . I quit.  For those that asked I am in NY near West Point.

Bangers:

Sounds like a draft issue to me.
Did anyone have a bid Bachrach draft gauge o n it?
Did they check the draft over the fire when it was "banging" or is it rumbling? What is the draft at the breaching when off? When on?
If it is rumbling with the draft damper open, what is the draft over the fire? Is it positive? I've not seen any Becketts that were happy when firing against positive pressure. When you close the barometric, increasing the draft, and the rumble stops, does the draft over the fire increase? Does it increase in the breaching
If the draft over the fire increases and the rumble stops, it would lead me to the bad draft theory.
I like my big Bachrach. It reads all the time and I can see it from a distance.
You basically have a three sided outside chimney. At my last Plumbing/Gas CEU, there was a discussion of a code change in MA that had to do with three sided outside chimneys on gas appliances. Oil wasn't discussed because that is another license. That boiler is so small inside that there isn't much for expansion and contraction of the flue gasses. I've never seen a Beckett run well with draft issues.

same county

i live in the same county,if you contact me i would like to talk to you.

readings

i agree with ice the poster said he had 3 guys there but he hasn't posted any readings other then a clean smoke.

http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/133739/Beckett-burner-banging-real-bad

Sorry, I am not the tech and didn't write down the readings.  The only reading I remember was the smoke test because I looked at the paper when he took it out.That is the tech's job. 

wish I was close by

Me luvs a challenge, but getting there from Cape Cod would be the challenge. I'm sure there is someone here that can make a visit. I think you are all around the problem, but just can't put your finger on it. 

Bangers:

If you are going to be thorough, you should have replaced that oil line. In MA, the oil line must be replaced with a "protected" oil line. By the looks of that oil line coming from in back of the new boiler, it is as old as the original install. In MA, a replacement boiler is equal to a burner replacement.
It seems that some OBT's love that oil filter that was a state of the art design before they were born. You have no easy way to put a vacuum restriction gauge on it. Replace it with a modern Gar-Ber style spin-on filter with a restriction gauge on it. A line as old as that is probably plugged up and high pump vacuum is causing suction leaks. When you change that nasty filter element and put a new one that will turn to nasty, and you open the bleed screw to vent the air, if it takes more than a minute to bleed it, the oil line is full of sludge.
Replace that filter. In fact, use two. One at the tank and one at the burner. You will never have a dirty sludged up pump strainer or a clogged nozzle strainer again. That alone (to me) is worth the price of the change.

http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/133739/Beckett-burner-banging-real-bad

The oil line is almost the original. I put two new 330 gallon tanks in two years ago. The line is new up to where it comes through the 18" thick foundation. Also blew the line out while replacing the tanks. New filter element when boiler replaced also. Yesterday I changed the stove pipe and put the flapper on the horizontal run close to the wall. Also got rid of the 8" pipe and ran 6" thru the wall. Banging seems to have gotten better or maybe I'm getting immune to it We'll see in a few days. Thanks.

"Banging"

Is your "Banging" more like a rapid "Woo-woo-woo-woo" that may cause the draft damper to flutter? Or is the banging more like fluttering? If so, it is most likely a draft problem. That's not "banging" in my thoughts. It will take a different approach. It isn't ignition which is what MY idea of "banging" is. If you close the air shutter down radically, does it get better (but may smoke like heck)?
Do you have a big Bachrach draft gauge? Does the fire go positive over the fire when it is "banging/fluttering"? That's a draft issue.
There's something about bad chimneys that I see on occasion and I have developed my theories that seem to point to this. I was talking with an experienced gas installer that said he has seen the same thing on gas. He now works on oil and works for an oil company. He is dealing with a Peerless/Beckett combo that is doing the same thing. I know some history on the install and I gave him some suggestions. It all gets around flues that are compromised. 
If it is "fluttering, and you don't resolve it, I'll add more to it. Unless you have dealt with it, some might  not agree with me but it is what has seemed to help for me.

http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/133739/Beckett-burner-banging-real-bad

No, it's a banging or boofing as some have said. It is on startup only, and the flap bangs also but the real bang is coming from the chamber. Exactly what a delayed ignition (had on my old burner) sounds like. Like there is too much fuel and it explodes when ignited if this makes sense.

Start up only?

I was under the impression it was banging through the cycle! So your saying when it lights off it shakes and rattles the whole boiler and the stack pipe jumps! If that's the case I would try a solid (B) pattern nozzle and go to a wider pattern like an  80B. That will spread the fuel mist out more and bring it closer to the electrodes. (you can experiment with  "B" or "W"  which is an in between pattern. I would spectra a "B" would give better results"  Try to get a draft reading when this is happening a strong draft will be pulling the mist away and up into the sections before it lights.
     Did the techs you had there test the transformer/ignitor output?

Bnging Beckett:

What World Plumber says may have merit.
However, before you go and start experimenting with nozles, check your boiler/burner installation instructions and see what Burnham/Beckett recommends for that application. I find a lot of bad running Becketts with improper nozzles in them that problems were resolved by installing the proper nozzle.
Burnham and Beckett have worked closely together to get the most efficient and trouble free combination possible so that they could get their DOE/IBR and whatever ratings. You can go to the RW Beckett web site and possibly get what Beckett recommends for that application. Remember, Beckett also spent a lot of money on research on this burner in this application. They do not like to get a bad reputation.
There once was a guy (now since passed) who decided that a 70 degree hollow nozzle was the universal nozzle. He trained all his guys that this was so. 70 Degrees is between 60 and 80. Good logic. He did almost all Becketts and any replacement burner was always a Beckett. If it was a Carlin (60 degree SS) he put in a Delavan 70 degree Blue, Solid. If I got called, I changed a lot of nozzles. I have found that there is no beter place to start than the manufacturers suggested nozzle.
Just my experience.

Beckett banging real bad

The factory recommends a 80 60a nozzle. This is what I was running. I have tried a 75 60a and 65 60a with the same results. Today I have my wood burning stove going and the chimney is right next oi the oil burner chimney, The oil burner is not going on much, maybe once every couple of hours to heat up the water. Today it is banging so bad and loud I am tempted to turn it off so I can sleep tonight. I don't know if the temperature of chimney has anything to do with it.

Draft

Sure the wood burner is heating up the chimney and creating a stronger draft.
   Your changing the firing rate by changing the (.#). That changes the BTU's . The angle of the nozzle changes the way the fuel mist fills the chamber. Your draft is changing the characteristics they had in the lab. Decide what firing rate you want the experiment with different nozzle patterns. (Solid (B), semi solid (SS), universal (W) Spray angle (80) (90) if that doesn't work you have to do something about the draft. You may need to consider an insulated liner lots of money or a powerventer or new chimney. 
    Do you have a window near by the boiler. Is it possible to run a piece of stove pipe out the window insulate the pipe well in the window and operate the boiler while keeping a close watch on it. That way you will know for sure if it's the chimney.
     Once again try to get a draft gauge hooked up while the chimney is hot and add enough draft regulators to get it into spec with a hot chimney.

  Put an 80B nozzle and see if it compensates for you problems. if that doesn't work see above.

Bangers:

You didn't say that about the chimney flues.
Next time the boiler is running, and "banging", open the window in the room where the wood stove is burning. Open two or more. If the "banging" slows down or stops, the wood stove fire is getting it's draft air from the boiler flue. It is backing down the oil flue and causing back pressure on the burner. If the wind direction changes so that the wood smoke blows over the boiler flue, your cellar space would most likely fill up with smoke. If it is the other way around, your house would fill up with boiler exhaust. And Carbon Monoxide.
When it comes to draft, you can't fool Mother Nature. Not ever.
Becketts will ABSOLUTELY not run well against positive chamber pressure. At least, not one that I have ever seen.
And regardless of what anyone says, whatever Beckett or Burnham says is the place to start with a nozzle. I have NEVER had a problem burner that I wasn't helped by going back to whatever they suggested. They have engineers that are paid well to do this. I'm not one of them. I carry copies of the latest Beckett and Carlin spec books with me at all times. I refer to them always. They have never let me down. For real problems, I call tech support. The first question from them is what nozzle are you using. The second question is did you do a combustion test.
It is MY experience that when you start changing nozzles to try to find something that works better on something that isn't running right, you will go farther into the woods that you were when you started. When I find myself dropped into the woods, I first look for a way out before I try to find my way to the prize. That way, I know where I have started from.
I (don't like to) assume anything but it must have run well when it was installed. If it wasn't, it should have been fixed then by the installer. If it ran well, and now it doesn't, what changed? Running the wood stove and closing the windows? Could that have something to do with it? Inquiring minds are wondering.

Beckett Burner banging

Actually I am the installer, it was put in by myself and my grandson. He is a plumber but not an oil burner man. He has even said when he puts a boiler in he just starts it and it runs great. It has banged since the first day it was installed. An oil burner man came and set up everything with all the gauges digital and everything he uses.  , smoke test was run temp was set and all set to specs. Turned it on and BANG, had no idea what it was. First said it was normal probably because he didn't know what was wrong That was the first tech, two more after him and it still BANGS As posted earlier my neighbor has the exact same setup and no banging at all..

Banging:

I have NEVER heard of anything like your problem. Not ever. There is something really wrong with that thing. I know that Becketts can run bad but not THAT bad. There must be some fundamental flaw in the burner. If it was a package boiler and the burner came with the package, make them take a burner off a new one and try it. If it stops, then something is wrong with that burner. Maybe the wrong head, something. Carlin's only have one head. And head positioning bars that go with the nozzle firing rate. Idiot proof. I don't consider myself technologically advanced enough to figure out all those heads and dimensions and adjustments on Becketts. They make the back of my neck burn when I am faced with a problem like that.
I will say that you really have something there. I personally NEVER give up. And I would change that burner to one that goes on it or another brand, specifically set up for that.
I'd be calling Beckett and Burnham about this. If "I" installed it, and I spent as much time on this as you seemed to have, I'd be squawking.
Post this over on Oil Tech Talk. I'd be interested as to what they say. They LOVE Becketts over there and are all really good oil burner technicians.

I have used many becketts

I have one in my fathers boiler actually. I just do not know how to fix it by way of the internet. A decent burner guy should be able to go in measure the draft over the fire. the smoke and the settings and get it humming. I am sorry you are going through all this. as a thought how about going and buying a nice new nozzle and starting the tuning from scratch. I have seen over tightened nozzles leaking. I will check again but I think you checked for leaks in the oil line. The last idea is this, and I have seen it. Are you sure that the only thing in the oil tank is number 2 heating oil. Da had a job where the boiler blew up. They thought it had dry fired. When he went to fire the new boiler he got fire blasting out the peep hole. Turns out the 20,000 gallon under ground tank had a truck load of gasoline dumped into it.

Banging Fuel:okes

Interesting suggestion Charlie. Something like that could cause that.
Disconnect the HP line and squirt it into a glass jar. If it isn't red, mybe you have something. Then, smell it. If it doesn't have that fresh aroma of Eau De #2, it ain't it. Put it in a pan, stand back and toss a match in it. If the match goes out, it's Kero or #2. If it goes Poof, it ain't pure and lt's been lieing. Definately something strange. I'd still rag on Beckett and Burnham though. It ought'a run, even if it smokes.
Have you tried putting a gauge on the nozzle test port to see if it pulsates or that the pressure is what it is supposed to be?
How I'd like to hear and see that little rascal doing its thing and how I'd like to figure it out. What fun.
Where are you located?

If this is a brand-new unit

it should have a valve-on delay setup, most probably an R7184B or GeneSys control and CleanCut pump on the burner. it's possible some oil is being leaked into the combustion area when the burner first starts to run, then lighting off with a bang when the usual oil flow is delivered to the nozzle. 

This situation is unsafe, whatever is actually causing it, and fixing it is a job for a pro. Try the Find a Contractor link above, since your usual burnermen don't seem to be able to solve the problem.

Oh, and Icy- a good burner is a good burner, no matter what brand it is. Proper selection, installation, setup and maintenance are what matters most.

Banging my head:

Steamed, That is true. But, I don't do scorched air. One burner is used and recommended on most all scorched air furnaces. Another is listed for very few. That burner will blow a hole right out the back. I think that that burner has better fuel utilization characteristics. My opinion. My choice.

Beckett Burner banging

As far as the fuel it is definitely fuel oil. The burner that in before this one (Beckett also) was running just fine. Just had tanks filled in September.. As far as fuel leaking I have had the burner running and after it shut off pulled rods out to check if there was any fuel laying anywhere, dry as a bone. Hoping to get someone new in here next to give it one final try before I go to the doctors for a custom made set of ear plugs.

nozzle dripping?

Can you verify if the nozzle is dripping AFTER shutdown?

You might need a small 2"x2" mirror on a stick to see into the combustion chamber after shutdown.

pressure/leaks

Did the guys you had in there before use a pressure manifold to check for proper pump pressure and leak through? Did they check the vacuum on the fuel line? Was the barometric damper set with a draft gauge? It didn't appear to be opening in the picture. Have they tried increasing the pressure and down sizing the nozzle? There is something out of kilter with the proper testing equipment they should be able to find it.

Testing a Banger:e?

Just because you have some fancy electronic combustion analyzer doesn't mean you know how to use it or interpret what it is telling you.
My wet bulb Bachrach CO2 test kit will tell me everything I need to know about this problem.
Is it making smoke?
If I open or close the air shutter, does the noise change?
If I find a "sweet" ( better spot), and I open or close the RC, does it change?
What does my draft meter say when I do all this?
What happens to the draft over the fire when I do any of the above?
What is the CO2?
What's the pump pressure when running?
Does it fluctuate when "banging"?
What is the vacuum at the filter?
Pump?
Is it a spin on filter with a gauge?
What kind of fuel do I get when I put a hose on the bleed screw and run it into a can with the T-T jumped and the nozzle line squirting in the can? Is it clear or cloudy showing air bubbles showing a vacuum leak?
When you changed this boler, did you replace the WHOLE oil line with a "protected" oil line with ALL flare fittings?
If you put the bleed hose in can and let the oil flow into the can with the hose submerged, you shouldn't see any bubbles or microbubbles in the oil. If you do, you have a vacuum leak. In fact, there is a cause for everything. A vacuum leak can cause this. Put a Garber Spin-On at the pump with a gauge. If the needle goes up much in the green, you have a problem. If it goes into the yellow, You have found your problem.
In Massachusetts, we are required to replace ANY fuel line that doesn't meet code on a burner replacement. The only thing to meet code is a "protected" line or a new line in a sleeve like PVC NMT.

Beckett Burner banging

Thanks to everyone for trying to help. I have just about given up trying to fix the problem. I have nobody local that I can trust to repair the problem. I even went to the place I bought it and asked for a name of someone who can fix the problem. No answer. I am starting to become immune to the banging and as long as it doesn't blow up I'm good to go.
I'm a retired Teamster, 70 y7ears old, and pretty handy but not efficient on the burner repair and apparently neither is anyone else in my area. Getting tired of changing this and changing that with no solution in site. Right now my back is out with all the shoveling so the burner is on hiatus for a while. Again thanks to all for trying. I only wish some of you guys were local to me.

Don't give up:

"J",
Don't give up.
Start with the oil line. You must replace it. Start at the tank and go all the way to the burner. Change that POS filter to a new Garber. Get someone to do it. Someone like one of the guys that tried to fix it. There are only two things that make a burner not run right. Fuel/air and Ignition. If it is "banging" as you describe it, it isn't ignition. It must be fuel. And if you have a suction leak, it could easily act like this. I haven't seen something do exactly this but it easily could.
DO NOT USE COMPRESSION FITTINGS!!! Use only FLARE fittings
Call the serv ice person/Oil Company and tell them you want the oil line from the tank to the burner changed.
As a proving point, get 5 gallons of Diesel or Kero oil and connect the burner to this fuel source. It will probably run. There is no reason for that to not run. It is a nice, clean install. It just should have had the oil line changed.

Beckett Burner banging

Iceman
Again thanks. I can change the oil line with no problem and also the filter. There are no compression fittings on the line now only flare fittings. I just have to wait for some help to get under my porch where the two new tanks are  now. There is a new line coming out of the tank but it is connected to the original line and it is connected with flare fittings. The oil in a 5 gallon pail sounds like a good option and I might try that. Thanks again.

To try

That's just a trouble shooting trick. If it runs out of a 5 gallon can and doesn't bang, I think a prudent person could conclude that there is something there.

Good luck.

ditto

like the ice man said, don't give up yet. Have you contacted a Burnham rep? Get them involved, so if there is any defective parts that may be causing your problem, they will stand behind it.

West Point

Jcamp, I have only lived in NY for about 5 years is West Point anywhere near Saugerties, NY? If so and it's not to far I'd be happy to take a look at this.
Just know this will cost you a cup of coffee or two :-)

Banger Repair:

Thanks Alan,

Lots of coffee

According to Google Maps, they are 75 minutes apart, so I guess a lot of cups of coffee will be required. ;-)

He's your man Jcamp

If you can get Alan over to check things out, you'll be golden

Look even if you pay him full rate

75 minutes is nothing compared to what this could cost. No one on here wants this to be an install from H e double hockey sticks. That is if Alan is willing to drive that far.

Look even if you pay him full rate

75 minutes is nothing compared to what this could cost. No one on here wants this to be an install from H e double hockey sticks. That is if Alan is willing to drive that far.

Beckett still banging

Hapy New Year to all
I have no problem paying anybody full rate or whatever they want as long as they can fix the problem. What I object to is someone coming, charging me and not fixing the problem. The last "Tech" said well its better got paid and left. Told me it's normal to bang like that, what do I know. I am a retired truck driver. 

Banging DX:

J,
When you (I) get a problem like this, you must bring all your "stuff" in and start from #1. That means, first start the thing and listen to what it sounds like. Pressure and vacuum gauges on the pump. Does it have constant ignition or interrupted ignition? If interrupted, does it get better if constant? Draft? I have to get all test equipment going and watch what they are doing.
If you walk in and approach a problem like you are a rock star, you may get bitten in the butt.
Learning is like a pyramid. You learn a lot at the base. There's a lot to cover. But as you rise in learning, the size gets smaller. The higher you go, the harder it is to find the pearls. One of the best ways to learn is to get in the tub and find yourself being sucked down the drain. How you get out is the pearl that takes you to the next step. Whomever finds this problem will find the pearl. I've found a lot of pearls in my time. Enough to almost make a necklace. 
That's why I always liked to pick the brains of the old guys. They had the pearls.

verdict?

jcamp

What's the latest?  Any progress?

Banging Burnham

Have read most of these posts kinda interesting. 1 thing I did not see was nozzle line. I have had a few of these NEW and have bad flares. A Beckett rep said a Machine did it and That was impossible. At my cost I mailed One to them. Seems a while back the machine screwed up. They thought they got all the faulty ones apparently not.

Banger

With low capacity nozzles ,Beckett usuall wants the combustion air to come thru the side air band not the larger outside air band and also a special air gasket under the transformer. But you need to know the oil pump pressure.

Beckett Burner banging

No progress. Still banging like hell. Can't even get the selling dealer to recommend a repairman. I have given up and learning to live with it. As long as it doesn't blow up I guess I'm ok for a while. Using wood burning stove now so it's not running much. Mostly for hot water.
Thanks to everybody for the help

You need the test equipment

As we posted before you need a knowledgeable tech with his test equipment. You can have a suction leak letting air but won't drip oil out. A restriction, a weak transformer, too strong a draft, the pump pressure could be too low, you could have a cracked electrode, on and on. They try to test fire them in the factory, but they take a lot of bouncing around in shipment. I have contractors who do the piping and call me to do the burner set up. If you don't have the test equipment, know how to use it and know what the numbers mean, your only guessing.
    PS: it won't get better until the problem is found and remedied.

Solutions:

JCAMP,
I don't know what is wrong with this burner and from all the dialog about it going back a month or so, and all who describe as "looking" at it., if it is as you say it is, I strongly suggest that you contact the boiler manufacturer and/or the burner manufacturer. "Insist" that they have a "Rep" come with a new burner, set up for your application and try it. If the problem goes away, something was wrong with the burner. On raee occasions, I have been confronted with situations that were resolved by a replacement. 
You have gone on for far too long with this problem. Your discription of the sound of your problem is like trying to describe to someone the difference between chocolate and vanille ice cream to someone who has never tasted either. Your "b ang" may be entirely different to someone else like me. And a lot of techs may not want to fail at fixing this problem. That's why you need to contack the factory of the boiler manufacturer and burner manufacturer. A lot of installers use that burner. I don't like them personally because they have far too many complicated adjustments that need to be done in applications like yours. End cone, baffle plates, air shutters, nozzle sprays. Most of us assume that it is correct from the factory. Maybe it isn't. The burners I use have few adjustments. Head positioning bars are determined by output. That leaves nozzle type and air adjustment. But there are a n awful lot of techs that swear by your burner. Maybe it is a draft problem.
You need to move up to a higher level. Someone needs to physically be in the room when it is doing it.

beckett

Does your primary control Pre-purge ?   Is your pump  pressure correct ?

Beckett Burner banging

You guys are asking me questions I can't answer. As far as contacting Beckett I have done that and they are no help, tech sits at a desk and answers questions as his computer tells him to. It's still banging or boofing as some say. As I said previously it's something I am beginning to live with. Hopefully as long as it doesn't blow up when Spring comes I can get someone up here to check it out. Again, thanks for all the help.

Certified tech

Your not saving anything by hiring fly by nighters. You need someone who has the test equipment and can answer these questions. A true tech will know the answers in short order and correct it. I didn't spend thousands of dollars for the test equipment just to look at. Most anything that could be bad in the burner the tech should have on his truck. Until you watch the draft, oil pressure and suction pressure with the unit running you won't know the answer to you problem.  I beg to differ with you on Beckett. I don't know who you spoke with but several of the gentlemen there have years of field experience. And have dwelt with these kind of issues. But they can't give any answers if they don't know what is doing. Without doing the tests this is just a go around and around. The burner need to be set up by a pro who has the equipment to check for the quirks that necessitate a change in normal settings and knows how to do it. 

Alan

I thought Alan was taking care of you.

RE: Help

Charlie, Jcamp respectfully declined my offer to help him out. I think it was because I was offering my services for nothing more than a cup of coffee. He sounds like a guy that does not want to take advantage of people and I surely respect that.
Here’s a new offer Jcamp let’s see how soon I can get out to your home (it would have to be a weekend) I’ll diagnose, possibly correct or at very least recommend what needs to be done. I offer a service through my website called consulting for consumers. You can follow the link below to see how it works. If I can’t solve your problem I’ll refund your money no questions asked.
 http://www.oiltechtalk.com/thankyou.shtml

Beckett Burner banging

Alan
I never declined your offer, just told you how far it is to my house. Yesterday an old timer came up and wanted to look at it. He came with no test equipment only knowledge. He closed the air band on the top of burner and opened the air in the side of burner. Looked at the flame and made some more adjustments. We then bled the oil line again for about one minute. I have to admit it is now quieter but still banging or boofing. He said it is normal for the Beckett to bang. I took him across the street to my neighbor who has the same exact setup and guess what no banging. It is getting livable but still wakes me up at night when it comes on. I know it has to be set up with test equipment but he is retired for a few years and doesn't have any. My next project is to replace oil line from tank to filter and see if it makes a difference but I have to wait for my grandson, I'm getting too old to start crawling over tanks under porch to change line.
I'm trying.

I almost

want to venture off Cape to go tackle this monster. It's hard to fathom that no one can get this burner right. He had a few so called techs there, yet no satisfaction. Are they salesmen for gas conversions? I'm also curious why Burnham/Beckett is of no help?

You and me both

but Baltimore is even further away.......................

Anything new?

No updates on this problem?

Did you ever visually inspect the chimney for (partial) blockages?

fuel line

I might have missed it in all the posts put have you replaced the fuel line, from stem to stern?
I find that this is maybe the single biggest cause of ignition and wacky combustion problems.
peace
Matthew

Beckett Burner banging

Ok followup.
Still banging but getting better. Chimney was inspected and ok. Fuel line will be replaced as soon as it warms up a little as it is under porch and tough to get to when your 70 years old. Waiting for grandson to come up. Right now last guy that was here has the damper closed so it doesn't open at all. Right now burning the wood burning stove so have plenty of heat, burner only going on for hot water. Thanks to all but I have given up for now. Maybe in the Spring I can start over with a tech who knows what he is doing and has the proper instruments to fix it.
Joe

The suspense!

You're gonna make us all wait until Spring?   LOL  :-)

Beckett Burner banging

Hey, got a question for you guys. How come the boiler doesn't bang as bad when my wood burning stove is going. They are separate chimneys right next to one another.
The wood burning is a insert in fireplace with a 8X12 chimney and the boiler is a 8X8 enclosed in cement block.  Both are clay pipe. Does this tell me anything that I need to know?

how about low fire baffle?

been reading your promblem and see how long you have put up with it .It seems every body has gone over just about every thing i was thinking as i read the post do you have the low fire baffle installed on the burner to find it lift the transformer and you will see it it clips right onto the housing by the cad cell .Some beckett burners are required to use it to help create a bit more static and less air  for the gun to fire a smaller noz without the banging.I have installed and serviced  becketts with burnhams,weils ,peerless and buderus and have never had any issue like you are having,has anyone opened the combustion chamber  up to ensure the target wall is not leaning forward ? Has anyone checked your pump pressure ,vacume and fuel supply via the jet line ?what model gun is it and  does this burner have does it have the f head or is it a v series either way i do believe it needs a low fire baffle kit being it is firing under a gallon . Post back peace and good luck clammy

Banging Flues:

You didn't tell us that the boiler was venting into a two flue chimney with a wood stove in the other flue. The wood stove is taking make up air from the boiler flue. Becketts HATE back pressure/positive draft pressure. If it was a gas boiler, and it had a draft hood, the spill out switch would be tripping it off. You'd have CO coming in the house.
Next time a "pro" comes to work on it, have them close the doors to the upstairs and open the cellar door to the outside or open a window. Then, set the draft etc.
You need combustion make up air. Your wood stove needs combustion air. It is getting it from the boiler flue. Or some combination thereof

same problem same equipment

I am a 28 year licensed oil burner tech in MA and having the same problem with 2 Burnham v8's with Beckets I believe it's a design flaw with the l-1 and v-1 heads I will be meeting with a Burnham rep very soon

Banging

Boilerman,
Can you give us/me a more professional opinion on what the "Banging" sounds like?
Where are you located in MA?
Burnhams sure are noisey with a Beckett.

Burnham

has always marched to their own beat. The burners have always seemed to be just a little different than the specs from the burner manufacture. This goes back to the Carlin 100 CRD days, and other burners that they have mounted to this old American Standard boiler design. I have converted those L and V heads to "F" heads and new tube assemblies with better results than "playing" with the out of the box Burnham supplied burner. JMHO

Banging My Head In Pain

Bill,
You just graphically illustrated why I despise those burners. I went to their web site to look at what is up with the parts and settings. They have F1 heads, L1 heads and different tubes, plates. They started out where you could carry a box of parts and install any burner in any application. Now, I don't even know what I am looking at. I never find settings at where they are supposed to be and I also find that settings have been changed from years ago for certain burner models.
It makes my head hurt from trying to store all that info. 

passing the buck

Surprise  Surprise  Burnham is trying to pass the buck on to Beckett .  Burnham approved the use of that burner with the V8 They are both to blame for it's failure. Oil is accumulating in the extended head of the blast tube.  Draining inside the chamber face.  Improper atomization .  Since neither Burnham nor Beckett will address the issue I will be contacting the state fire Marshall .  This is now a safety issue

I refuse to believe

that neither Beckett nor Burnham will lend any assistance,they have the best support going!

Icesailor

I think that's what shade tree "mechanics" said when fuel injection and electronics put them out business! Things change,get used to it!

Head of the shade tree class:

Hey, I don't have a single problem with higher forms of technology. I think you have it all wrong. As far as modern and whatever? It's about this.
A "Fixed Head" burner and an "Adjustable Head" Burner.
With an adjustable head burner, you slide the retention head through a throttle ring to adjust the air pressure in relation to the firing rate. The retention head is always the same. Just the distance from the throttle ring changes. No other parts are needed. The adjustments are in the nozzle pattern. The "Z" dimension is always fixed by the placement of the retention head on the nozzle adapter.
With a "fixed head" burner, the "Z" dimension is a number that can never be violated. If you want the burner to work through a long range of firing, you have to play "tricks" with the head but that "Z" dimension can never change.
How many combinations of parts are offered from the burner body to the end are offered on the various Becketts? Many. How many on a Carlin? One. The adjustment is dome with the head positioning bar and air pressure. Whatever you fire, its the bar you use. Not so with the fixed head.
As far as I know, the power gas burners are adjustable head burners.
If fixed head burners worked as well for me as adjustable head ones have, I might like them. They have never given me a reason to like them. The fact that I must put my large paw down the air tube of a fixed head burner to scrape the carbon off the retention cone with a used copper fitting brush annoys the heck out of me. There's nothing like pulling the nozzle Assembly out and cleaning the adjustable head so it looks like new.
I left the shade tree mechanics under their trees long ago. I still see a lot of folks still back under the tree though.

I'm not following you

Adjustable heads are good and fixed heads are bad? Yet the unit in question is using an adjustable head and that's bad because it's made by Beckett and not Carlin? There's a reason Beckett and Riello have 90% of the market between them! I have nothing against Carlin,but they are basically a non entity in NYC and LI,except on the commercial end. 

Following heads:

I didn't  say that there was anything wrong with fixed head burners, just that because of all the need for different heads and et/al, they become more complicated for a lot of techs. The problem is that given the time constraints given for service, and things being done by techs that don't really know what they are doing, it becomes a huge burden to someone trying to fix something.
Wasn't that AFG II an attempt at an adjustable head burner? You had to take the thing apart and switch rods. I found one once where someone had changed nozzle sizes and didn't change the spacers. It ran like dog do-do. And the set of space bars were no where to be found. What does one do? That's my point. You obviously know what you are doing. I don't.
I thought that Riello's are adjustable head burners.
Got to go. They are about to call my flight. 

Good luck with that

As long as there are safety devices present, and all relevant permits pulled, it's not a Fire Marshall thing, probably more Attorney General or consumer protection. 

this has to be

the longest damn thread

Longest??

It's really much ado about nothing!

Fuel line

My money is still on the fuel line.  And then of course fixing all the fixes.
peace

I hate Beckett

Does the V8H still come without a floor blanket? If so you may want to try adding one.

Still Bangin???

What type end cone?  Never met a L or V head I did'nt have to vac. Beckett burners have changed their design so much. Maybe to compete with Riello. Not a fan of either. A .85 nozzle I believe was in the burner? Change the blast tube with a F6 end cone.
If it was my house I would use a Carlin. Standard parts, E Z setup.
Just one mans opinion.

Barometric damper

Try a new barometric damper and move it to the Horizontial part of the smoke pipe.

Beckett burner banging real bad

OK guys here is an update. Replaced fuel line from tank to burner, still banging.. I now have the damper shut all the time and the banging is livable. Still bangs but not as bad or I am becoming used to it. I had another burner man in with all the gauges and meter and he set it up according to factory specs. Took the burner out and check for leaks or excessive fuel, all ok. When he got done it is still banging. I really appreciate everybody that has tried to help me with this mess. Neither the selling dealer, Burnam or Beckett want to help. I also have too much money invested to junk the burner and get a new one so I will have to learn too live with it. The new setup is definitely working better than the old Kover boiler and the Beckett burner that I have been using. Maybe when Spring comes I will look for more answers but for now is is livable. thanks again.
Joe

banging

does it have an l1 head?

Update?

Anything new to add?  Problem solved yet?

I would

have liked to see Alan go "get er done"