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    Riello burner questions (10 Posts)

  • imaddicted2u imaddicted2u @ 8:10 AM
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    Riello burner questions

    I have a Riello Mectron 5M on my New Yorker boiler. I have been unable to find a service/installation manual online, does anyone have one?
    This year I changed from 1.0 USGAL nozzle to a 0.85 USGAL, I have looked at the manual for the Riello F5 and wonder if it is close enough to the 5M design that I can use it as a guide to rough in the initial air and turbulator settings for the new nozzle as detailed in the boiler manual.
    I have a combustion analyzer and will make the final adjustments using it. What Stack temp, CO2 and excess air numbers should I aim for?
  • billtwocase billtwocase @ 8:34 AM
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    what model

    new Yorker do you have?  This is not a good package, and sounds like this was a retro? If it is an AP model, have the chamber checked thoroughly. 
  • imaddicted2u imaddicted2u @ 9:11 AM
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    Model NY-151

    Thanks for your reply.
    This is not a retrofit burner. Here is a link to the manual and some pics. Although my model NY-151 is older the design has not changed from that shown in the manual. I just did a thorough cleaning including removing the combustion chamber and it all looks to be in good shape.
    http://www.nythermal.com/pdfs/nyseries_install_guide.pdf
    I use a Honeywell outdoor reset control to control boiler temp and have a bypass line installed to ensure good return water temp.
  • imaddicted2u imaddicted2u @ 12:09 PM
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    Riello burner manual

    Here is a link to the Riello F3 and F5 burners.
    Is the F5 close enough to the Mectrom 5M that the turbulator settings would be the same?
    http://riello-burners.com/5_riello-vip/_members-vip/2_manuals/residential/40_F3-F5-rev3.pdf 
  • imaddicted2u imaddicted2u @ 9:12 AM
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    Model NY-151

    Thanks for your reply.
    This is not a retrofit burner. Here is a link to the manual and some pics. Although my model NY-151 is older the design has not changed from that shown in the manual. I just did a thorough cleaning including removing the combustion chamber and it all looks to be in good shape.
    http://www.nythermal.com/pdfs/nyseries_install_guide.pdf
    I use a Honeywell outdoor reset control to control boiler temp and have a bypass line installed to ensure good return water temp.
  • imaddicted2u imaddicted2u @ 9:35 AM
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    whoops...

    Sorry for the double post.
  • meplumber meplumber @ 8:45 AM
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    I agree with bill.

    This is not a good combination of boiler/burner. If you could give us a Model number on the boiler, maybe we could give you a little more info.
  • imaddicted2u imaddicted2u @ 5:36 AM
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    How much?

    I used 660 gallons of fuel oil last heating season. Steady state efficiency of my current boiler is 85-86%  If I changed my boiler to something more efficient, how much fuel should I expect to save. What would a new high efficiency boiler cost.
  • billtwocase billtwocase @ 7:41 PM
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    you would save

    Going from a dry base steel boiler to a wet base cast iron 3 pass would do some shaving off the oil bill. Degree days are the only accurate way to compare consumption from year to year, as no 2 winters are the same (temp, sun, clouds, etc)
  • imaddicted2u imaddicted2u @ 10:43 PM
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    thanks for the reply

    Any thoughts on a percent fuel savings number on a triple pass cast iron boiler and the cost of the boiler? Being retired and on a fixed income I'm most likely stuck with what I have. With the price of everything going up it just gets harder to make ends meet, I'm just trying to eek out whatever savings that I can. 
    The house is 2100 sq. ft. and has 12 foot ceilings. It was built in 1931 but has had insulation and window/door upgrades. Used 660 gallons of fuel oil last year. I'm in Sydney Nova Scotia Canada. Started last year at 73.8/liter (2.79/USGAL) ended at 95.9/liter (3.62/USGAL). Started this year at 92.9/liter (3.51/USGAL) and they are about to announce a 9% electricity increase here. Where will it end, how much profit for the big corporations is enough?


    From reading, I gather that drawing combustion air from the interior of the home causes something like 2000 cu. ft./gallon fuel oil of cold outside air to be drawn in through infiltration. This air must be heated and causes drafts.
    I wonder if supplying outside combustion air would reduce air infitration enough to be worthwhile, could I expect any fuel savings?

    This is a great site, thank you!
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