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trouble with a new system (74 Posts)
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trouble with a new system
We just renovated our home. We had a new Ultra 230 Weil Mclean Boiler installed with new Pex and baseboard. 2 zones continue to shut down After purging they are ok for 1 -3 days and then they shut down again. The thermostat is calling for heat but no heat. Pressure testing shows no leaks. No water anywhere. Any advice?
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Can you describe better?
What do you mean by a zone shutting down?
Do you mean the thermostat for that zone stops calling for heat?
Do you mean the zone valve does not open or the circulator for that zone does not run?
Do you mean there is no call for heat reaching one of the boiler's inputs?
Do you mean that all the circulators and zone valves work properly, but the boiler puts out no heat?
Is the U-control of the boiler set up correctly?
Do the zones actually work, but the boiler circulator is not running?
Is the outdoor reset triggering the warm weather shutdown?
Is the reset curve wrong?
Was the boiler installed according to the manufacturer's instructions?
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It appears everything was installed correctly
Do you mean the thermostat for that zone stops calling for heat? THE THERMOSTAT NEVER STOPS CALLING FOR HEAT.
Do you mean the zone valve does not open or the circulator for that zone does not run? WE CHECKEC THE ZONE VALVE. IT IS OK.
Do you mean there is no call for heat reaching one of the boiler's inputs? THE THERMOSTAT IS CALLING FOR HEAT.
Do you mean that all the circulators and zone valves work properly, but the boiler puts out no heat? ZONE VALVES WERE CHECKED.
Is the U-control of the boiler set up correctly? I'M NOT SURE WHAT THAT IS.
Do the zones actually work, but the boiler circulator is not running? THE ZONES WORK THE CIRCULATOR PUMP ALSO WORKS.
Is the outdoor reset triggering the warm weather shutdown? NO. ALL OF THE OTHER ZONES ARE WORKING FINE.
Is the reset curve wrong? NOT SURE WHAT THAT IS. THE ZONES WORK FINE FOR A WHILE AND THEN THEY BASEBOARD BEINS TO COOL DOWN FROM THE DISTAL END. EVENTUALLY IT\'S ICE COLD. THE PIPE LEAVING THE BOILER IS HOT. THE RETURN IS COLD.
Was the boiler installed according to the manufacturer's instructions? I GUESS.
Reply
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installed correctly
"Do you mean the zone valve does not open or the circulator for that zone does not run? WE CHECKEC THE ZONE VALVE. IT IS OK."
Since you have two zones, are both zone valves OK?
"Do you mean there is no call for heat reaching one of the boiler's inputs? THE THERMOSTAT IS CALLING FOR HEAT."
Does the boiler know it? I.e., when the thermostat calls for heat, does the boiler fire and run using the correct reset curve?
"Is the U-control of the boiler set up correctly? I'M NOT SURE WHAT THAT IS."
The U-control is the circuit board in the top of the boiler that contains most of the electronics that runs the boiler and associated circulators. It listens to up to three thermostats (one of which is usually an indirect hot water heater). It must be programemd correctly and wired correctly for the boiler to work properly. It is all described in the installation manual.
"Do the zones actually work, but the boiler circulator is not running? THE ZONES WORK THE CIRCULATOR PUMP ALSO WORKS."
If that boiler is installed according to the manufacturer's installation manual, you will have at least two circulators. One in the primary loop, and one in the secondary loop. If you have two, you will have two zone valves. If you had no zone valves, you would have three circulators. And one more if you have an indirect fired hot water heater. So if you are trying to heat both zones, is the boiler circulator running as well as the system circulator? If the system circulator is not running , the hot water will come out of the supply pipe of the boiler, go through the closely spaced Ts, and return immediately to the boiler. In that case, the boiler will cycle pretty fast. Are the temperature sensors attached to the secondary loop fairly closely to the closely spaced Ts? Your system is piped primary-secondary, I hope. That is what Weil-McLain require.
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It appears everything was installed correctly
Do you mean the thermostat for that zone stops calling for heat? THE THERMOSTAT NEVER STOPS CALLING FOR HEAT.
Do you mean the zone valve does not open or the circulator for that zone does not run? WE CHECKEC THE ZONE VALVE. IT IS OK.
Do you mean there is no call for heat reaching one of the boiler's inputs? THE THERMOSTAT IS CALLING FOR HEAT.
Do you mean that all the circulators and zone valves work properly, but the boiler puts out no heat? ZONE VALVES WERE CHECKED.
Is the U-control of the boiler set up correctly? I'M NOT SURE WHAT THAT IS.
Do the zones actually work, but the boiler circulator is not running? THE ZONES WORK THE CIRCULATOR PUMP ALSO WORKS.
Is the outdoor reset triggering the warm weather shutdown? NO. ALL OF THE OTHER ZONES ARE WORKING FINE.
Is the reset curve wrong? NOT SURE WHAT THAT IS. THE ZONES WORK FINE FOR A WHILE AND THEN THEY BASEBOARD BEINS TO COOL DOWN FROM THE DISTAL END. EVENTUALLY IT\'S ICE COLD. THE PIPE LEAVING THE BOILER IS HOT. THE RETURN IS COLD.
Was the boiler installed according to the manufacturer's instructions? I GUESS.
Reply
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Warranty
Your new equipment should be under complete parts and labor for 1 year. I would call the installing contractor and they can help you out. It's probably something minor, but that's their job to keep you satisfied. It's unusual to purge your zones that frequently. While they are there, ask them to explain the operation sequence so you can be familiar with the new equipment.
Mike T.
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pics?
Also if you post some pics of the piping at different angles, we can tell you if it truly is installed right.
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The installer has been working on it since January.
Initially there were 3 leaks, one by the floor guy who hit pipe. One by the trim guy and another by the drywall contractor. Understandably they showed up, water dripping etc. But this other stuff is baffling. Is it possible that the indirect water heater could have a leak that is putting air in the system? Could it be a kink in the pex? Is it possible to have a leak that has not showed up in 5 + months? It's not normal to have to bleed a system every three days.
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Test, Leak check
Close off you water supply to boiler, Waite the 3 to 4 days like you said. Check pressure reading on T&P Gauge. It should not drop at all. 3 leaks from rogue nails concerns me. Yes pic's would help. Who is purging the zones? Are you sure they are completely free of air? Air will not be introduce to boiler circuit due to Indirect tank. If in fact there is a leak, It could be anywhere that you cannot see. Leaks usually make a mess if in conditioned space.
Mike T.
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What's Shutting Down
When you say shuttig down, what do you mean? Boiler locks out? What error code are you getting? You need to post pics.
"The bitter taste of a poor installation remains much longer than the sweet taste of the lowest price."
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Actually, he was the highest priced plumber.
Actually, he was the highest priced plumber.
The boiler does not shut down. Two zones get cold. Pipes leaving boiler are hot. Baseboard and returns are cold. Zones valves are OK. Thermostats are calling for heat. The zones get purged. They work for 1-3 days and then... IT STARTS ALL OVER AGAIN.
This post was edited by an admin on May 13, 2012 7:20 PM.
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Post Pics
Can you post pics of the boiler and zone piping? Sounds like its an air issue but if your purging it out and it comes back something is allowing air into the system.
"The bitter taste of a poor installation remains much longer than the sweet taste of the lowest price."
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Did
the installer put any means of removing air from the system automatically? If it is not present, every time you purge the system,you add some air that is entrained in the water. If the piping is not done correctly, and there is no means of removing that air,it will wind up seperating from the water and cause problems like you have. Take some good photos of the near-boiler piping.....stand back, and get some views of how everything is piped.
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trouble with a new system
Can't get in till tomorrow because the floors are being finished. Plumber said that he thought it could be the water heater. Perhaps it's letting in air. He bypassed the water heater to see if it happens again. I will post some pics tomorrow.
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pictures
I hope these help. I have attached some pics. Thank you guys for all your imput.
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P/S
Where's the boiler pump for the boiler loop and the closely spaced tees into the secondary side?
Does that follow the manufacturers piping diagram for their installations?
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Where's the boiler pump for the boiler loop
I think it is the black one to the left of the two PVC pipes.
But it does not appear to be piped exactly according the the I&M manual. The supply from the boiler shrinks down from the one-inch pipe from the boiler even though the boiler loop should be a minimum of one inch.
I just found the PRV in another picture. It seems to be in there sideways, and I think that is not code, but I am not a contractor and I could be wrong about that.
If the plumbing is somewhat like mine, The T that is on the return side of the closely spaced Ts is right above the black circulator. The supply side T is hidden behind the two white pipes. According to W-M. they should be no more than 12 inches apart. Mine are 1 1/4 inch, and they are 5 inches apart (4 pipe diameters).
It is easier to see on mine. (Installation by my former contractor.)
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The water heater was disconnected to see if it was the problem.
The one zone shut down again so that was not it. The two zones that shut down were pressure tested while all of the others were closed. No Leaks. Baffling!
This post was edited by an admin on May 18, 2012 7:39 PM.
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can't put my finger on it
but something about that piping doesn't look right.
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2 zones shut down
could you describe where those 2 problematic zones located in the house ?
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Why
does the vent pipe look discolored?
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The zones that are shutting down
One is on the first floor. There is a baseboard on an inside wall it loops up the wall and across to an outside wall. It comes down and up to cross over two bay windows before it goes back to the boiler. The other is above it in a master bedroom. The master bedroom seems to be the room that shuts down most often.
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This post was edited by an admin on May 19, 2012 8:53 AM.
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The zones that are shutting down
One is on the first floor. There is a baseboard on an inside wall it loops up the wall and across to an outside wall. It comes down and up to cross over two bay windows before it goes back to the boiler. The other is above it in a master bedroom. The master bedroom seems to be the room that shuts down most often.
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Is
it possible that configuration of supply, and expansion tank off the bottom of the seperator is interfering with the function of the seperator?
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PLUMBER BYPASSED THE EXPANSION TANK
FOR 2 DAYS THE ZONES RAN HOTTER THAN THEY EVER DID. THEN I LOWERED THE HEAT FOR THE CLEANING CREW. THE NEXT DAY I TURNED IT BACK ON AND HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.
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PLUMBER BYPASSED THE EXPANSION TANK
FOR 2 DAYS THE ZONES RAN HOTTER THAN THEY EVER DID. THEN I LOWERED THE HEAT FOR THE CLEANING CREW. THE NEXT DAY I TURNED IT BACK ON AND HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.
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2 bad zones?
I bet the zones in question are hooked up wrong at the manifold. The supply of one zone may have the return hooked back up to the supply and the other zone pipes may both be hooked up to the return. I've seen it many times involving pex. Just cut the crimp rings at the manifold of the zones in question and blow in one tube and make sure you have the supply with its return hooked up in the right locale.
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"They work for 1-3 days and then... IT STARTS ALL OVER AGAIN".
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2 bad zones
Are those zones completely cool, or there is hot water at the zone valve at entrance to the zone?
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After bleeding they are hot.
Within a few days the one baseboard on the zone gets cool. By the end of the day both baseboards are cold. At the zone valve the pipes stay hot. On the return they are ice cold. If left alone they cool down by the zone valve also.
This post was edited by an admin on May 20, 2012 7:21 PM.
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Zone
How many Feet is the run? What is pressure difference at beginning and end of the run?
Please close all other zones and run system with only one problematic zone.see what happens
This post was edited by an admin on May 20, 2012 7:37 PM.
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It's a long run.
Maybe 85-95 feet from zone valve to return. It's a long run. he tried that. It ran hot for a few days and then the same thing happened.
This post was edited by an admin on May 20, 2012 9:50 PM.
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Pump
What pump make and model?
It ran hot for a few days and then the same thing happened.
could you be more specific. it run hot for few days when all zones were turned off by the valves?
This post was edited by an admin on May 20, 2012 10:11 PM.
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zones turned off at the valves
It ran hot with all fo the zones turned off at the valves. I will be on site tomorrow. I will check to see tha make and the model of the pump.
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zones
you have to balance your zones. turn all valves on return to 45 degree, except those 2 zones. later you have to install balancing valves on each zone,
Also, do you have differential pressure bypass valve?
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TACO 007-F5
ATTACHED IS A PICTURE OF THE PUMP'S TAG
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System Pressure:
I think that you need to raise the system pressure. It is too low.
Raise it to 18# to 20# with the by-pass lever once you have it purged. Or, just raise the pressure. You need to squish the bubbles. If you by-pass the expansion tank, the system pressure will go up when heating, squishing the bubbles or air. Once flowing, the bubbles are absorbed. If the pressure isn't high enough, you will get the problem. Especially if the boiler is below the first floor in a two story house.
My controversial opinion.
Use a #60 Extrol and run the system at 18#. For me, almost always, all problems go away.
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rep came by
He recommended that a few flanges be changed. The problem persists. Air is getting in somehow. There are no signs of a leak anywhere. The walls, floors, basement, ceilings and crawls spaces are dry. It's been nearly six months.
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Hydrogen production???
If the water is not properly treated, it may be creating its own chemical reaction, and the "air" may be hydrogen. Easy enough to test. If it flairs when vented with an open flame (BIC lighter) it is hydrogen, and yo need to treat the water per the manufacturer. "air" doesn't just appear out of nowhere.
Has your water been properly treated?
ME
It's not so much a case of "You got what you paid for", as it is a matter of "You DIDN'T get what you DIDN'T pay for, and you're NOT going to get what you thought you were in the way of comfort". Borrowed from Heatboy.
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Does this make sense?
All zones were shut down manually so that only the boiler and the water heater is working. Plumber said he is trying to see if there is a problem with the boiler or the water heater. If they keep working then he said the problem is in the walls. Does this make sense?
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How much water needs to leak out to shut the zones down?
How much water needs to leak out to shut the zones down? After a day you can hear the air bubbles going through the pump.
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Irrelevant
Zones shut when a thermostat tells it too. Valves don't care nor know anything about water. They are either open or closed and nothing more then a swtich to the boiler like the thermostat is a switch to the zone valve.
"The bitter taste of a poor installation remains much longer than the sweet taste of the lowest price."
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could it be the water heater?
The plumber is switcjhing out the indirect water heater. he feels that perhaps the water heater is leaking air into the heating system. Is this possible?
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System pressure
How are you determining your actual system pressure? Is it only the gauge on the boiler? I think you need to be certain you are getting an accurate read.Does the gauge fluctuate when boiler and circ. is on or off? How much higher vertically are the problematic zones in relation to the boiler?
When you bleed, are you getting air? How are you bleeding?
What is the model of the black circ? How about the DHW circ?
Could you also confirm the direction on your circs? There is an arrow on the casting. The black and dhw should be pointed toward the boiler. The zone pump towards the zone valves.
How much piping is there between the boilers tee's (behind the vent pipe)? Is the pipe straight or is there a valve between the tee's
Carl
This post was edited by an admin on August 28, 2012 12:49 AM.
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The problematic zones are the ....
The problematic zones are the higher ones. On the second floor. I'm not sure if he is getting air. I am assuming he does. If he isn't then it very well may be a kink because there are no visible signs of water anywhere. We will see what happens after they switch out the heat exchanger.
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Just a Thought
Has anyone checked to see if the 007 circ before the zone valve is actually spinning? Remove it and check it? The black primary circ with it's relatively widely spaced tee's could be "ghosting" enough water to make you think the 007 is working.
Have you tried to confirm that the tubing is not kinked? Some of the radius's in the boiler room look a bit strained.The trim guy and the drywaller should not be able to hit tubes(nail plates). This makes me think the tubing install may have been a little sloppy. I could see a scenario where the tubing kinks when it contracts(cools) and unkinks when it expands (heats). What happens when you push high flow cold water through that loop?
Carl
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when you push cold water through the system
When you push cold water through the system is works fine for a while. It lasts a few days to a few weeks. Then it begins to cool down. Eventually it stops working until the zone is bled again. Today the plumber isolated the boiler and it began to lose pressure. For that reason he thinks that maybe the heat exchanger is leaking air into the system. We will see. A representative is supposed to stop by.
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Heat exchanger?
Are you talking about the heat exchanger in the boiler?
What are your pressure gauges doing and do you trust them?
What is your total system height?
It is possible that the heat exchanger is leaking water into the condensate trap, creating negative pressure on an upper floor where air is entering the system. The fill valve would normally compensate for this.Not that that is a good thing!
I think he is throwing darts.
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I think he's throwing darts....
Maybe THAT's where the leak came from. You should NEVER throw darts in a mechanical room ;-)
I have had problems (numerous) with that particular pump. Your service tech/installer must be extremely inexperienced...
As for suspecting the DHW tank as putting air into the system, NO WAY. Pressure flows from High to low. If the heat exchanger in the tank had failed, and the potable water were at say 70 PSI, then the heating system would be at 30 PSI (assuming a 30 pound relief valve is on line) and the relief valve would be puking water.
This stuff is not rocket science. It's worse in some cases...
Honestly, it doesn't sound like you are circulating water with a pump. It sounds like you have some gravity circulation occurring that is giving the false indication of forced flow.
A quick and easy test. If you are fairly sure the pump is running, quickly close an isolation ball valve in that circuit. IF there IS flow, you should hear a notable HISSSss as the valve pinches off flow. If you hear nothing, you have no flow. I have had that particular pump work some times, and not work others. Which can be really confusing. Are the zone valves on the supply or the return?
Persistence is a virtue. You (and or we) will get it figured out. We always do.
ME
It's not so much a case of "You got what you paid for", as it is a matter of "You DIDN'T get what you DIDN'T pay for, and you're NOT going to get what you thought you were in the way of comfort". Borrowed from Heatboy.
This post was edited by an admin on August 29, 2012 8:45 AM.
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I posted some pictures on May 12, 2012.
I posted some pictures on May 12, 2012. If you need others just let me know what I should take a picture of and I will do it later in the day when I get home.
BTW- I want to thank you all of you guys for your persistence and help!
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heat exchanger
Yes, he is talking about the heat exchanger in the boiler.
The pressure gauge on the boiler drops when he isolates the boiler. When he pressure tested the zone he said it was fine. He did this many times since February.
The heat exchanger is not leaking water into the trap.
I must say this is a very frustrating experience.
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Focus on the 007
That one pump could be your entire problem. Bleeding may actually spin the pump and make it work for a while.Are the pumps in this system new? That one looks like it has been sliding around in a service truck.
I don't know how the service tech is isolating the boiler but it sound inexact at best.
Some techs have 2 annoying habits. One is to keep trying to bleed air even if it does not exist. The other is to always blame the boiler (usually the controls).
The reason I keep asking about the pressure is unless you have lower than atmospheric pressure somewhere in the system, Air cannot get in. In a typical 2 story house you might have a 20 foot tall system. Air could leak into the top of the system only when the boiler reads less than 10# and only if there is a leak on the top. If you don't believe it , look carefully into one of your boiler drains and open it up to see if air is entering. Be sure to weare safety glasses and you might want to keep a towel handy.
Carl
This post was edited by an admin on August 29, 2012 9:26 AM.
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Question?
If the other 5 zones work fine, do you still feel it might be the pump?
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Problem Zones
Could you describe where those 2 problematic zones are located on the supply manifold? Are they the first 2 zones after the system circulator? Air will always work its way to the highest point in the system. Either the Spirovent is not working, and,or air is being introduced at the inlet(suction) side of the system circulator. For me,those are the only logical explainations that fit your description. I may add to that list after reading responses, but I don't think those can be removed.It's what makes this site work very well. Take a different approach.......Eliminate the things it can't be, and you're left with the problem.Dart throwing is a waste of time and money.
This post was edited by an admin on August 29, 2012 12:08 PM.
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Gravity and ghost
For years hot water systems had no circulators. They were designed to run on gravity. Cold water is heavier than warm.
The black circulator on the boiler appears to be quite robust.The tee's between primary and secondary are a little farther apart than I would like. Some of the energy from the primary could be ghosting into the secondary providing minimal flows to those zones.
Carl
Is he getting air when he bleeds the system?
What is the pressure?
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Is that transformer rated for that number of
zone valves? if they do not open right they do not heat well. also is a 007 the right pump for this amount of radiation?
Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.
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Re: pump
I asked many times if that pump was sufficient. Every time I was told that it was. Early on the electrician had crossed a wire that kept the pump running. Although not enough juice to keep it running at full speed it kept spinning continuously without stopping. A rep. is supposed to stop by on Tuesday. I am cautiously optimistic that he may find the problem.
This post was edited by an admin on August 29, 2012 11:17 PM.
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Pump:
Now wait a minute. You didn't say that before.
There is NO WAY a pump can do that unless you have a major electrical screw up. You need to be sure that the heating system isn't fed off of two electrical circuits, making the two circuits opposed and that you will have 240 volts between any hot legs. You also need to check polarity.
I don't like to throw sludge around but in my opinion, your service tech. is a little short in the tooth and is out in the pasture with the big horses.
The best way to check is to swap out that 007. You only need to undo the 4 5/16: cap screws holding the circulator body to the housing. For all the times the service tech has spent on (hopefully for you, not for him) unconpensated time, it would have been cheaper to change it in the beginning. Most everything I have heard you mention is "An Air Cause". Causes pulled out of thin air. He has a very poor understanding of what he is trying to do and how to do it.
First of all, IMO, if you run the system at 18# to 20#, there will be no air bubbles. Clamp or close down on all the air vents. Once purged, there shouldn't be any air in the system and it shouldn't appear with 18# of pressure. If you have a Spirovent, use a 1/2" IPS coupling and a plug or fit a reducing fitting to put a vent in the outlet but close it off.
I think you need some fresh eyes from someone who is long in the tooth to figure this out. You/we get a "feeling" for what is wrong with these systems.
IMO.
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Hmm
You don't seem interested in a linear approach to the problem.
You are not going to solve this without eliminating some possibilities.
The only way air can possibly be entering the system is if you have low system pressure. You don't want to talk about pressures.
You have a flow problem. Agreed? It could be air locked. You don't know if they are seeing air when they bleed.Do you have a pressure gauge? I think your system is piped in a way that should purge air quite well. If you are hearing lots of air you may have a clogged spirovent
Have you tried to close the valve before the 007 while the system is running? Does it make any noise as you close it? Do you know how little that circ costs? You don't get wear marks on the cover when they are bolted to flanges.
A 007 should be able to pump the zones you describe just fine. If the rest of the zones are similar, the sizing is likely correct.
As for the transformer concern, It may be a problem with all zones open. Post the va number on the transformer and you will have your answer.
Just because you don't know why you are being asked a question, why not post the answer? It is free advise.
Carl
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Troubleshooting
It is A-B-C,in that order, and no other. If the boiler was isolated and lost pressure, where's the water? There's no mystery involved with that,find the leak.If the system is properly pressurized and the autofill is left open, water will be added to the system in a measurable quantity if there is a leak. If the problem is obscure, it might take a day to isolate, perhaps 2, not months.Your tech is stuck at the wrong end of the process.
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I'm just the homeowner trying to figure out whats wrong.
It's not me. I'm just the homeowner trying to figure out whats wrong. If I have omitted a few answers it's because I don't have a clue. I have mentioned the pump and other issues many times, but my plumber seems to want to do things his way. The problem has been going on since February. No matter what he does, it's the same result. The zone cools down.
I will let him bring in the rep one more time and then I will have to hire another company to figure things out.
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We
are all frustrated for you. We know it's not you.It's painful to watch him take wild stabs at the problem, and settle on a possibility that could easily be verified or discounted in short order.
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I am just a homeowner too.
What is so frustrating to me is that your heating guy could have ripped out your boiler, and near-boiler piping, and replaced the whole thing with a new system in two days or so. That would not be the best way, of course, but it would have got the problem, if that is where the problem lies.
Instead, he has taken six months to not fix the problem, or even identify it. As someone else already said, he is clearly a knucklehead, and it seems to me you are being too patient with him. Even if he does all this for free, you will need this resolved before the heating season starts, and tomorrow will be September first.
The first thing, it seems to me, that he should have done is identify the problem, not start swpping parts. And if swapping parts, he seemed quite amazingly stupid. It seems to me almost impossible that the indirect DHW heater could be leaking air into a pressurized system. It might leak water in, but that would raise the system pressure, causing the pressure relief valve to weep. And so on.
If the problem is air getting into the baseboards, radiators, etc., it would be desirable to see if there are any high spots that collect air. And even then, perhaps putting an automatic vent valve in each high spot is not the answer. My entire upstairs heating zone is baseboard, and it has no vents at all. It does not get air except when it was initially filled. After purging, there were enough little bubbles left that probably collected up there, that you could hear them at first. But after a while, they slowly dissolved into the water and were removed by the microbubble absorber (fancy air scoop, but more effective; Spirovent and Taco make these).
So if the problem is air locking the system, his first task is finding out how it gets in. His second task is to figure out how to prevent this. Perhaps his third is to figure out how to get rid of it, but if he does the first two, the third may be unnecessary. He seems to have no clue how to troubleshoot your system, and this must be, at least in part, because he does not know how it is supposed to work.
Would you want to go to a surgeon who does not know human anatomy?
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You can do it
Sorry,
I didn't post because I wanted to help your heating guy fix your boiler.He is clearly a Knucklehead.
I think you could work this one out.
Carl
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The new boiler was installed on 09/20/12
The new boiler was installed on 09/20/12. I did not think it was the boiler, but who knows, I'm not the specialist.
I did not run it regularly because there was no need to.
When the temperatures dropped the system began doing the same thing. The one zone shut down. Yesterday I opened and closed the feed side to that zone once or twice and then I closed the return side of that zone about 1/2 way for about a minute and then opened it all the way again. After that it seemed to warm up.
Any idea what that might mean?
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The new boiler was installed on 09/20/12.
I did not think it was the boiler, but who knows, I'm not the specialist.
I did not run it regularly because there was no need to.
When the temperatures dropped the system began doing the same thing. The one zone shut down. Yesterday I opened and closed the feed side to that zone once or twice and then I closed the return side of that zone about 1/2 way for about a minute and then opened it all the way again. After that it seemed to warm up.
Any idea what that might mean?
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NEW BOILER
Factory rep was at the house yesterday. He authorized a replacement of the entire boiler. Let's see if this solves the problem.
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The new boiler was installed on 09/20/12
The new boiler was installed on 09/20/12. I did not think it was the boiler, but who knows, I'm not the specialist.
I did not run it regularly because there was no need to.
When the temperatures dropped the system began doing the same thing. The one zone shut down. Yesterday I opened and closed the feed side to that zone once or twice and then I closed the return side of that zone about 1/2 way for about a minute and then opened it all the way again. After that it seemed to warm up.
Any idea what that might mean?
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You can lead a horse.....
Post your location and hopefully you can get a referral. Folks on here have given you endless advise yet still the knucklehead wasted a perfectly good boiler.The house still doesn't heat correctly.
Your problem is not that complex. You just need a real heating pro to troubleshoot it.
Carl
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Location
The house is in North Jersey.
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J star
J star is somewhere near you. You might drop him a line.
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ureka!
Purging the system repeatedly for over a year and switching out the boiler was not successful. The manual calls for a 0014 pump. The pump installed was a 007. A 0014 was installed and the system has been working fine for over a month. My question now is how to stop the banging in the walls? Is that a normal occurrence? can it be fixed? I thought pex was supposed to eliminate that from happening.
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