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Utica boiler problem. (26 Posts)
Utica boiler problem.Hi,
I have a Utica boiler UB95-200 with four zones for baseboard heating. Each with its on zone valve and one common circulator pump. I also have another zone for an indirect water heater with it's own pump. An argon 6 zone controller prioritizes what get's heated first. The baseboard heating and indirect water heater all connected by 3/4" copper pipe.
The problem is I keep getting soft error code b-30 and then after a while E-30. I have had plumbers come in and tell me that soft error code is normal and the unit will reset itself after awhile. But mine does not reset itself in time and goes to E-30 which is a hard error code and the unit is off until I manually reset the unit. Help I can't keep resetting all through fall and winter coming.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
duplicateThis post was edited by an admin on September 21, 2012 1:25 PM.
duplicateThis post was edited by an admin on September 21, 2012 1:25 PM.
Utica Boiler ProblemIt sounds like you have pumping issues. Is this a new installation or a new problem on an existing system? It would be best if you can post pictures of the boiler and piping, the more the better. I have looked at the troubleshooting guide for your boiler, but without knowing how the system is piped it's tough to give advice. Does this happen on a call for domestic hot water, space heating, or both?
I am not an..."expert" on that Utica model... however it does sound like there may be flow issues w/ the indirect... if the piping is only 3/4" and the indirect has high headloss a 007 more that likely will not do the job when the boiler goes into high fire for hot water production.... thus the overheating and lockout. FWIW.
fwiwfor what its worth.....I would use a Grundfos 26-99 or at a minimum a 15-58 on spd 3.
Utica Boiler ProblemI attached pic of the boiler. What is FWIW?
Let me tell you this my second Utica 95-200 boiler. The first one sprang a leak in the block. It was the one of the earliest ones made. I used to get a lot of E-19 errors on that one as well.
Changes were made to the boiler as far as the high temp. The internal T-Stat is set at 185 degrees. The hot-water heater is set for 120 degrees. Para 1 is to set to 146 degrees factory set 150. This was set lower because I was getting E 19 error code for Thermal Overruns.
Should I replace the 007 pump with another pump with higher head?
Do I replace the the 3/4 pipe with 1" size pipe? If I replace the pipe I will need to replace the zone valve with a 1" size connection.
Please include pump model or zone valve model number if I need to replace those.
Thanks You for the quick response.
argoCan you take a picture inside that argo controller?
Utica Boiler ProblemThe argo controller is set for valve/pump and priority switch in on and switch 3 & 4 is off.
Thanks for the info on Grundfos pumps.
Again thanks for the quick response.
Utica Boiler ProblemLooked up Grundfos pumps and found four different models.
UP 26-99 F 52722355
UP 26-99 BF 52722347
UPS 26-99 FC 52722512 3 speed
UPS 26-99 BFC 52722518 3 speed
Closed system (F) and Open system (BF)
Which one will fit the system and do I need to replace the taco flanges?
Too hotI don't know your boiler, but I'd bet the error codes are related to over heating. Looking at the pix you posted the PVC vent used for the exhaust is discoloring due to high heat and looks yellowish compared to the intake material and elbows.
Like others have suggested evaluate if you are pumping enough. You may be able to reduce the max firing rate, or combine small zones together
I disagree with anyone who claims it's normal to routinely go off on a high limit (or any "error code", if it was they'd call it a "normal code").
Check the instructions, do they allow PVC or spec CPVC? Some even spec CPVC near the boiler and then allow lower temp PVC further away. A better option would be to get the vent switched for a high temp plastic like Centrotherm or Duravent Polypro.Home Owners Please Note:
You are receiving advice from some very skilled pros completely free of charge. One of the reasons I participate is to sharpen my own troubleshooting skills. So; did we get it right? I would be grateful if you extend this courtesy back by posting the final outcome of the issue you are inquiring about. Thanks
QuestionLook at the boiler control panel......Are there wires on DHW T1 and DHW T2 ?
Utica Boiler ProblemDHW T1 and DHW T2 are connected to each other. Should they be?
On the Argo controller the 18 gage ground wire is not connected to anything. Should it be connected to the thermostats?
I attached the pic of boiler wire connections.
VictoriaEnergy good eye. This had to be recent. I did not notice the discoloration before.
As far as the PVC for venting is concerned I looked at the manual and PVC is what's called for. Should I replace the PVC pipe ?
WrongSo, as far as the boiler is concerned, it thinks there is always a call for DHW.This is meant for the person that wired that..........FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS!
I and O ManualIn the argo controller, the terminal strip for the priority zone....terminals 1 and 2 power the zone valve, 3 and 4 get jumped and the end switch wires from the zone valve go to DHW T1 and DHW T2 in the boiler control. I'd get the manual out, and check all the wiring.This post was edited by an admin on September 26, 2012 12:07 AM.
Utica Boiler ProblemI did not wire the boiler but It's interesting 3 different plumbers including one that was recommended by a plumbing supply place did not notice it was not wired properly.
I had suspected the jumper so I looked up the Honeywell zone valve specs a while back and I think it has an end valve so all wires can be connected to the Argon controller.
Incidental I pulled out the jumper once and I saw the A XXX and thought it was another error type. The original manual did not have this code. So, I put the jumper back and trusted what the plumber had installed. Remember my original was one of the first ones out of the factory.
I did what you had recommended. I jumped terminal 3 and 4 on the argon controller. Connected zone valve wires to DHW T1 and DHW T1. Seems to be working the same as I pulled off the jumper from the boiler side. I will have to go through the new manuals. It seems they have more information which I could have used.
Thank you. Thank you.. Thank you. can't say it enough.
I will let you know how it behaves in the long run when I kick in the heating and hot water usage sometime next week.
Again a big Thank you.
Ground wire?Are you talking about that green colored 18 ga wire thats inside the white outter jacket along w/ the red &white 18ga wires? If yes,then no.That is not a ground wire.
Utica boiler problem.Hi, Techman
No, the wire I am talking about is on the Arog controller on the wall. The wire is connected directly connected to the Arog controller housing and I moved to take the picture I posted and noticed it was only connected to the housing and nothing on the other side.
Let me know if you know where it goes or I will have to try to find a diagram of the controller installation.
I also noticed that some of the cables are loose and had to tighten on the controller.
The system is working for DHW. Thanks to all you guys.
I am going to turn T-STAT for heat to night and see how well everything together works.
clear?From your description of what you did, I can't tell if you have that wired correctly now. Here's the manual.follow the diagram on page 31. http://www.ecrinternational.com/secure/upload/document/1846.pdf
Utica boiler problem.Sorry, about the confusion. I have it exactly like that on page 31. The priority zone terminal 1 and 2 are connected to a Honeywell zone valve. Terminals 3 and 4 have wire jumper between them. The Honeywell zone valve has wires 3 and 4 going to the boiler control panel.
My only concern is a green wire on the Arog controller. Which I believe was factory installed for grounding is not connect to anything. I don't see that wire in the diagram. I can take a better pic and post tonight.
I know it working now thanks to you. But worried what else they have taken a short cut on.
I looked at the manual for the Bock indirect water heater installation last night as well.
The piping 3/4" minimum and Taco 007 is OK. But they require a check valve on the return side. It will have to wait till the spring.
ArgoLook at the directions for the ARGO controller for grounding instructions.I've got my fingers crossed that this fixes the issue. Either way, you look for things wrong, and make them right. Error codes indicate a problem that needs to be taken care of. Keep us posted. Good LuckThis post was edited by an admin on September 26, 2012 5:52 PM.
Utica Boiler ProblemOk we are back to the [b 30] error. Which means High limit operation: Temp rise across boiler too high. This seems to be happening when we use hot water in shower or dishwasher. I tested the DHW operation when it calls for heat and the boiler goes through the proper sequence. But at some point it gets into the error code b 30.
I think the next step will be replace the pump with Grundfos 26-99f for faster flow.
Utica boiler problemOk, I turned on the heat. The argo controller thermostat and zone valve lights turn on.
The status is blinking, primary pump is on and XX contact is on. XX contact is connected to CH T1 and CH T2 on the boiler. However, the boiler status never reads [1 xxx]. 1 meaning calling for heat. It reads [0 xxx]. 0 is no call for heat. xxx is the current temperature.
I have it wired like on page 31. of the installation manual. Honeywell zone valves wires all connected to the argo controller.
By the hot water heating is working fine. still need to put in a check valve.
Utica boiler problemOk, Need your help again.
I have the AZ6CP argo controller. When I turn on the heat at the T-stat the led on the argo is lights up and few seconds the zone valve comes on and terminals 3 and 4 close (end switch). But the end switch on the argo controller does not close (marked XX). I tested the panel on the boiler. I jumped CH T1 and CH T2 just for testing and It works.
How do I get the End Switch on the argo XX to close? The zone valve is opening and the end switch is closing. What am I missing? Do I have to wire each zone like the DWH? Currently I have setup like whats on page 31 of the installation manual.
End switchTry jumping the end switch to see if that works. If it does, the zone valve or wiring is bad. If it doesn't work, the zone board may have a problem.- Joe Starosielec
Guaranteed performance. Guaranteed energy savings.
Serving all of NJ, NYC, Southern NY State, and eastern PA.
Utica boiler problemThis works the same as if jumper the CH T1 and CH T2 on the utica boiler panel. It does not behave the way the installation manual. The display on the boiler does not goto [0 XXX] no call for heat. It starts up and goes to [6 150] target temp reached. When I T-stat calls for heat it goes through the correct sequence of operation but it stops at [6 XXX]. It does not do a post purge and go back to [0 XXX] when the T-Stat stops calling for heat.
[A 180] self check
[0 180] no call for heat
[1 180] pre-purge speed
[2 180] Ignition
[3 180] Burner on space heating
[6 180] Target temp reached
[1 180] post purge
[0 180] no call for heat
The display never reads [0 180] even if T-stat is not calling for heat.