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    Spud removal, did I go too far? (7 Posts)

  • FittingMonkey FittingMonkey @ 7:07 PM
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    Spud removal, did I go too far?

    Using the helpful information from previous posts, I attempted to remove a spud plug (love that name!) from a 100 year old cast iron radiator. Yah, well, remove the plug with a wrench and 4 foot pipe didn't work. That plug was NOT going to budge.

    I ended up using an angle grinder to cut the end of the plug off. After that, I used my sawzaw and a new blade to cut into the grooves of the spud nut. I made the mistake of going too fast with my second metal blade, which resulted in cuts into the threads (photos attached).

    I pressure-tested the radiator before this work, but now I'm concerned that I'll encounter leaks once the new nut is installed. I've read on other forum threads that experienced plumbers have seen the following methods work:

    - Pipe dope plus teflon tape
    - JB Weld

    I'm wondering what methods worked best and which would be best based on the given situation I find myself in.

    Many thanks to all you plumber gods out there!

    ** I should add the reason WHY I removed the plug. I have a gravity system and the plumbing on the previous radiator was on the same side (intake + return). The replacement radiator had the plumbing on either end.
    This post was edited by an admin on November 11, 2012 7:08 PM.
  • Paul48 Paul48 @ 8:12 PM
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    I'd

    clean the threads on the radiator and new spud with contact cleaner, or dykem remover, then use RTV silicone, and pressure test again.Let it set up over night.
    This post was edited by an admin on November 11, 2012 8:13 PM.
  • FittingMonkey FittingMonkey @ 12:06 PM
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    Would JB Weld be too much?

    Would it be overkill to use JB Weld? Once the radiator is in place, I don't anticipate ever moving it again. I just want to make sure that I'll be able to make a tight seal.

    Thoughts?
  • FittingMonkey FittingMonkey @ 12:23 PM
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    Bushing?

    Curious if a brass bushing would create a better seal since there is a lip that would cover over the area that was cut by the sawzaw? In such a case, I'd just use a smaller valve instead of the 1-1/4" valve I was planning to use.
  • SWEI SWEI @ 4:53 PM
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    valve size

    If the supply pipe is smaller than 1-1/4", I'd probably install a black iron reducer bushing with some epoxy (aka JB Weld) -- after a very thorough solvent cleaning, as mentioned above.  Even better would be a carefully welded fillet around the outside of the bushing.  This will enable you to remove and service the valve if the need ever arises.
  • Paul48 Paul48 @ 12:30 PM
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    I

    don't have much experience with JB Weld. Whichever you choose, clean the mating surfaces well, with something that leaves no residue. Let it set up, cross your fingers and pressure test it. Good Luck
  • AFred AFred @ 7:56 PM
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    The right tool for the job.

    The best thing to use is expando (http://www.xpando.com/pjc.html).
    Its not easy to find, 3 out of 4 wholesalers don't stock it. If they do, they probably don't know what it is. Follow the directions and violia, works like a champ.
    -Andrew
    This post was edited by an admin on November 12, 2012 7:56 PM.
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