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    Penn Boiler G-75 (year 1966) parts, or replace unit? (16 Posts)

  • Resinator Resinator @ 1:31 PM
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    Penn Boiler G-75 (year 1966) parts, or replace unit?

    I have a 1966 year Penn Boiler Model G-75.  It's 75M input and 60M output, Natural Gas.  It also has an imprint stamp "20% REDUCE ORIFICE" on same plate.  Cannot find any serial number, but the plate says Penn Boiler is a division of PEBBCO INDUSTRIES INC in Lancaster PA, and I'm trying to find parts and the service manual if available. I think the gas/flow valve may be getting sticky.  The water circulator just above it had a tiny leak that dripped water right into the TH hole of the Honeywell box connected to the flow valve - or whatever the incoming gas line into a cast box that has a pilot lighter and control like a water heater.   I tapped it a few times and the flame came back to full force, it was stuck on a lower flame.  I hope I didn't make it burn hotter than it should, and I adjusted nothing else, and now seems to be working fine again.  It makes fine heat for the upgraded house so size is ok.  1) Is this a gas valve I can find a direct bolt-on replacement?  Where?  Appreciate any model numbers or tips,  2) What should I replace this unit with when I have the money to do so?  I have a DHW heater next to it and curious if I ought to go with a combo boiler and DHW in one?  if so which ones are recommended for greatest energy savings?  I just replaced the hot water heater last summer, but don't mind making more space in the basement closet for additional storage either..  THANKS FOR HELPING!
  • Steamhead Steamhead @ 12:42 AM
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    Call a pro

    who will be able to cross-reference that gas valve to see if a replacement is available, and install it so it runs safely.
    "Reducing our country's energy consumption, one system at a time"

    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists

    Oil & Gas Burner Service

    Baltimore, MD (USA) and consulting anywhere.
  • Tim McElwain Tim McElwain @ 10:54 AM
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    What are the numbers on the

    Honeywell gas valve?
  • Resinator Resinator @ 12:47 PM
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    Numbers on Penn Boiler G-75 valve

    ON SIDE:
    V8254A
    C5296A
    V8280A1039 2
    1/2X3/4 NOM KF2
    V5107A
    1/2 PSI G-LP, USE NEC CLASS 2 TRANF, 24VAC4A50/60 CPS

    WORKING FINE AFTER I TAPPED THE VALVE A FEW TIMES, SO I THINK THE WATER DRIPS GOT INTO THE HONEYWELL VALVE AND MADE IT STICK, BUT NOW THE FLAME IS FULL.  DO I REPLACE IF IT'S WORKING NOW?
  • heatpro02920 heatpro02920 @ 12:29 PM
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    old gas valves

    are usually available in one way or another, but you will need the original numbers to locate what will work...

    As far as changing the unit, if your unit is running good and safe and you can restore it to service with out costing more than the extended life is worth, than fine, but as the old timers say "don't throw good money after bad". So if its going to cost $900 to fix your unit and you will only get another year out of it, that $900 would be better spent put towards a new unit....

    Good luck with your unit and decision... get that gas valve number and someone here will cross it I'm sure...
  • Resinator Resinator @ 12:54 PM
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    Recommended NEW unit when I hit the lotto?

    I'm glad this unit didn't fail altogether in mid-winter, but I would like to start assessing new offerings too, as it is 47 years old, sure new ones would pay off in short time.  Wanting energy savings but most importantly a carefree unit; does anyone have some solid suggestions on models to consider, possibly going with a combo boiler for baseboards and DHW?  Current boiler and water heater takes up about half the basement closet, and would love to recover some more storage, hence thinking combo, but open to all...
  • heatpro02920 heatpro02920 @ 1:45 PM
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    heatloss

    I would start with performing a heat loss calculation and figure what size unit would be needed, and how much hot water is needed for your domestic needs...

    that info and an approximate budget should get you some good recommendations...
  • RobG RobG @ 1:59 PM
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    Financing

    Don't forget, you may be able to finance the system through your gas utility and get possible rebates as well. Do a little research into what is being offered. You could possibly get a new system AND pay less money than you are paying now for that energy hog.
    Rob
  • Tim McElwain Tim McElwain @ 2:22 PM
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    The replacement gas

    valve is a VR8300A-1054 3/4" x 3/4" and it comes with bushings.
  • Resinator Resinator @ 8:54 PM
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    Sure this is the replacement? Isn't V8254A the Model?

    Thanks!  Which is the actual Honeywell Model No, as it shows several code numbers, with the V8254A or V8280A1039 2 being closest to your number.  Mine is right at 6" long, 1/2 inlet, 3/4 outlet, with a pilot.  I just want to find the right part to save the installer time, which is a friend, so doing this legwork to find the right part - affordably I hope..
    I'm a pretty good mechanic, just wondered if there's a rebuilt kit for these like a carb?  Now I'm quite certain it got some water in it and likely rusted something, though I found it within the day so not a longstanding problem.  In fact I'm quite impressed with this little 60m boiler, and recall the inspector a few years ago saying it was in nice shape for its age.  I plan to milk the rest of this winter out of it at least, and would like adequate time to research its replacement.   Any good leads on sources for parts much appreciated - and I am assuming Home Depot or Lowe's doesn't carry these older valves? 
  • unclejohn unclejohn @ 4:45 PM
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    I would highly

    Recommend you do something. Either replace that valve [if it stuck once it will stick again and the next time it might stick open]or the boiler. In all honesty I would replace the boiler, after all you are just kidding your self if you think the valve is the end of you troubles. With a boiler that old its just the beginning. If you stuck on fixing it please hire someone too do it.

    PS I would stay away from combo boilers and have the installer stub out pipe for a indirect in the future.
    This post was edited by an admin on March 1, 2013 4:47 PM.
  • Resinator Resinator @ 8:59 PM
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    Combo units not so good?

    Ok, thanks for the tips, but could you also tell me why a combo unit should be avoided?  Are they more expensive than the boiler and water heater together, or something else?  The size is perfect at 60m btu output, likely since I also upgraded thermal windows and added attic insulation and such so it probably works a lot less than it did new in 1966.  I did add a few baseboards in the basement, but it is still just 2 zones and absolutely no issues til this.  I love the simplicity of it, no filters like a furnace, and no noise! cheers
  • Tim McElwain Tim McElwain @ 9:14 PM
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    The VR8300A-1054

    is a 24 volt standing pilot gas valve which will defintly replace your valve. I would stake my 64 years experience in the businees of gas on that.
  • icesailor icesailor @ 7:44 AM
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    Replace the valve:

    Replace the valve.
    Only a fool, amateur or professional would try to repair (rebuild) the valve.
    I can and will repair most anything. I know where to draw the line. The line is there.
  • unclejohn unclejohn @ 7:29 PM
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    The TT Excellence

    Only has a 14 gal storage tank. The specs are 108*F at the mixing valve at 50*f min inlet water temp. Most people like the water a little hotter then that. I have never installed one but serviced a few and not enough hot water is a problem I hear a lot. 
  • SWEI SWEI @ 1:14 AM
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    14 gallon indirect

    would pair better with a 60k boiler than it does with a 110.  Even better would be a 35-40k boiler, in either Solo or Excellence trim.
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