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    Running A Gas Line Underground (8 Posts)

  • Running A Gas Line Underground

    I have to run gas to a patio, should I run 3" PVC conduit and pull it through later?

    Thanks, Bob Gagnon
  • Bob Harper Bob Harper @ 7:29 PM
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    2009 IRC Ch24

    G2415 has a lot of info. you need to consider. Much depends upon whether or not the conduit ends indoors or outdoors. It must be vented yet protected from rain and insects. If using plastic venting, it will require a min. 18Ga. tracer wire insulated with outdoor direct burial rated tracer wire. The conduit would need to extend at least 2" beyond the slab. The code doesn't properly address popping up in mid-slab for a fire pit or BBQ. The pipe must be buried a min. 12" below grade except 8" min. to each appliance if that installation is "approved' and not susceptible to physical damage. Metallic pipe will need corrosion protection.

    That's a blush but I'd recommend really going over whatever codes you have. If this is LP and beyond the second stage regulator, then the regular gas code will apply. Otherwise, refer to NFPA 58 for the LP installation up to the second stage regulator, which would be the "point of delivery".
  • kcopp kcopp @ 8:05 PM
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    Run PE....

    The yellow stuff... pretty slick and no sleeve needed. Just a trace wire.
  • Kmac Kmac @ 8:57 PM
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    Plastic direct burial. The way to go!

    "That yellow stuff" it's the way to go, polyethylene pipe with "con-stab fittings". The same as gas utilities use. The pipe is very inexpensive, but ou will have to buy a roll of like 100 or 150 feet. The end fittings are expensive. You'll also need to get a reamer for the ends of the tubing. If you need to run over twenty thirty, feet that's not in a straight line, this is the way to go. Continental industries
    I recently ran a 2" line for a pool heater and outside kitchen 70 feet in about 15 minutes, from inside house to termination
  • heatpro02920 heatpro02920 @ 9:18 PM
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    I use all their stuff when burying gas pipe for lp or Natural gas, they have a little double sided chamfer tool they sell with the stuff the preps the yellow plastic pipe... You can buy it pretty much anywhere they sell plumbing supplies..

    The best way to do it is use a riser at the house and a riser at the appliance or tanks what ever you are doing... You will need 2 risers{I buy 1" or 3/4" they are 30" vertical rise and 15" horizontal}, the roll of tubing {just run the tool over the ends on both sides one does the inside one does the outside edge, then stick the tubing in like a shark bite}, a tracer wire and I use this stuff its really cheap to buy
    heres a link to what the riser looks like

    Make sure you follow the local codes, as far as distances, practices, and materials... I just did this at my fathers house for his pool heater, I normally sub the buried gas line jobs out to the sprinkler installation guys, they are so fast and efficient at digging pipe, plus they get soooo much less per hour than any machine operator you will ever find, I just do the connections, they do all the real work... :) They made me an 85ft trench 26"'s deep, laid out a few inches of soft sand, laid the pipe in, more sandy stuff, the tracer/tape and covered it up in 2 1/2 hours!!!! under 300 for labor !!!!
    This post was edited by an admin on April 19, 2013 9:21 PM.
  • Yellow Stuff

    So, you would come up outside the house near the meter and hookup there, that sounds like the way to do it.

    Thanks, Bob Gagnon
  • heatpro02920 heatpro02920 @ 9:36 AM
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    Yes sir

    that would be how I do it, I have been getting more and more underground gas line installs, I have 4 waiting for the spring, 1 for a garage heater, 2 pool heaters and a guest house, thats not counting the half dozen or so Propane tank installs that will require buried lines....
    Use the equipment I listed and you will have a trouble free install, also keep the sprinkler installation guys in mind for doing the trench work, they are fast and inexpensive...
  • PE Gas Yard Pipe

    We see a lot of PLEXCO out here and you can use either stab fittings or fusion for joining.  I prefer fusion because the fused joint is stronger than the pipe itself and  it's more resistant to age and chemical related deterioration.

    My supplier rents me the machine and it's very easy to use.
    Often wrong, never in doubt.
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