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    Plumbers putty or silicone? (10 Posts)

  • ChrisJ ChrisJ @ 11:35 AM
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    Plumbers putty or silicone?

    I'm getting ready to install the new kitchen sink and being this is the first time doing this I'm trying to get prepared and learn all I can before diving in.

    I used plumbers putty on the basket strainers and now I've got mixed info on what to use when mounting the sink to the counter.

    Another thing I'm unsure of is the faucet is a single hole Delta which has a stainless cover that fits over a plastic spacer and I think it comes with a rubber gasket. I've been told in the past to throw rubber gaskets out and use putty when mounting a faucet?

    All opinions and comments are welcome as always.
    Weil-McLain EG-45 connected to 392sqft of radiation via two 2" risers into a 3" drop header and 2" equalizer. Using Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment to greatly reduce corrosion in the boiler.


    Boiler pictures.
    https://picasaweb.google.com/thetube0a3/Boiler?authkey=Gv1sRgCImUxIqv9436MQ#
  • Boiler Talk Boiler Talk @ 3:11 PM
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    Silicone

    I'm not a plumber but of the two sinks I tried the putty gave me leaks.  Use Silicone and plenty of it.  Good luck.  It's not hard to remove, but takes time to cure. 
  • ChrisJ ChrisJ @ 3:14 PM
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    Leaks?

    Thank you for your response.

    I'm assuming you are referring to using silicone to seal the sink to the counter and not the basket strainers?
    Weil-McLain EG-45 connected to 392sqft of radiation via two 2" risers into a 3" drop header and 2" equalizer. Using Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment to greatly reduce corrosion in the boiler.


    Boiler pictures.
    https://picasaweb.google.com/thetube0a3/Boiler?authkey=Gv1sRgCImUxIqv9436MQ#
  • Boiler Talk Boiler Talk @ 9:11 PM
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    Silicone it all

    I'm assuming you are referring to using silicone to seal the sink to the counter and not the basket strainers?

    Nope, I meant the whole thing.  Good luck. 
  • Sam81 Sam81 @ 5:37 PM
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    Sink installation

    Use silconized caulk to install the sink enough the it should squeeze out when's tightening the clips, and silicon between the strainer and sink and wiped then with a dry towel and ready to use
  • jonny88 jonny88 @ 6:37 PM
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    putty

    if using putty on marble make sure you get the right type made especially for marble.clear silicone is good for fitting sink,putty also maybe its a choice of preference.i usually use putty and always use putty on strainer(easier to remove in the future.)
  • jumper jumper @ 7:09 PM
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    anybody try liquid gasket ?

    I haven't but I intend to.
  • Charlie from wmass Charlie from wmass @ 2:13 PM
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    putty on strainers and silicone on rims

    silicone is NOT for strainers. if it leaks with putty sorry guys you did it wrong. I have been using putty to install basket strainers since I was 6 and it is the right product for the job. That is 36 years of installing with putty. I also use good quality strainers. The one with the zinc nuts should just be left in the box they come in and thrown away.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.
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  • ChrisJ ChrisJ @ 2:28 PM
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    Yep

    After doing it I have to agree with Mr Garrity.

    Putty on the strainers worked great. On the rim of the sink however, I ended up with small gaps on all 4 corners and you can see the putty.
    Weil-McLain EG-45 connected to 392sqft of radiation via two 2" risers into a 3" drop header and 2" equalizer. Using Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment to greatly reduce corrosion in the boiler.


    Boiler pictures.
    https://picasaweb.google.com/thetube0a3/Boiler?authkey=Gv1sRgCImUxIqv9436MQ#
    This post was edited by an admin on July 12, 2013 2:29 PM.
  • Bob Harper Bob Harper @ 10:07 PM
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    putty vs sillycone

    Since the strainer is considered replaceable, use putty. It has worked for generations. Sealing the basin to the counter should be silicone unless expressly forbidden by the counter fabricator. Choose the correct silicone, though. Acid cure silicones are suitable for thin joints where it won't corrode the adjoining materials and acts as an adhesive. Thicker joints >1/16" or so should be a neutral cure silicone which is better at gap filling but not very adhesive. When laid in a thick bed, acid cure silicones tend to skin over without curing the inside. Neutral cure will cure throughout quickly. Make sure the caulk is NSF approved. If you really hate silicones like me, you might consider a polyurethane caulk instead.
    HTH
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