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Oil line flare fittings (7 Posts)
Oil line flare fittingsWhat size and type of flare fittings are used for the oil line from the fuel pump to the nozzle line? I searched and could only find discussions on the oil line from tank to burner. I have three burners (2 AFG & 1 EZ1). I'm adding a solenoid valve to one of the old AFG burners and need to replace the 90° flare fitting with a straight fitting. Are these standard 3/16" 45° SAE flare fittings with 1/8 NPT in the pump housing?
If so, only good selection I can find is brake fittings at auto parts store. I don't see why these wouldn't work. They are 3/16" 45° SAE flare x 1/8 NPT brass. Does anyone have a reason why these wouldn't work?
Supply house ....Assuming all the oil line sizes are correct, the plumbing supply house will have everything you need. Home cheapo has them all too.steve
Oil Flare:The one coming out of the pump is 1/8" NPT. The one going onto the nozzle line is 5/16" or 1/4". Good luck finding those.
It's far easier to buy the specific oil valve kits for Beckett or Carlin. They have all the proper tubes already cut and flared to fit. I never bought oil valves without buying the proper kit. It was too much of a PITA and too time consuming to do it any other way.
A problem I ran into was using my Mitco Quick Check pump tester. With the clean cut pumps, the solenoid was in the way of the HP line and I couldn't get the quick disconnect fitting on the HP line into the burner. So I went through some serious gyrations to get fittings that I could adapt around the solenoid on an EZ-1. With the EZ-1, you only turn the pump fitting down, and the valve mounts in the left end hole under the transformer. They give you the proper tube to route under the pump. The 1/8" ells are already in the pump. It only mounts one way. They give you a short piece of 1/8" or 5/16" tube that has two 360 turns of the tube so that you can easily connect the tube from the valve to the HP line going to the nozzle. Beckett's are similar.
Word to the wise: Do you want "Instant Opening" or "Delayed Opening". There's a difference in the valves and applications. If you use a "Delayed Opening" valve on a 15 second control like a 60200 CCT or a Honeywell, you can get lockouts.
You will save nothing by just using the valve and adapting it. Once you buy a complete kit for the burner,, you will never do it any other way. The other way looks like a dubber did it. When done with the kits, it looks like it came from the factory installed that way.
InstantThis is going on a thirty year old Beckett AFG (or possibly an AF, label with model # is long gone) in a thermopride furnace. I got the Suntec solenoid valve that mates directly to the pump output with a banjo bolt. I thought about Beckett's cleancut, but decided this would be easier. I didn't want to have to play games with the pump shaft given the age of the burner. I looked at Becket's valve kit, but didn't like how it mounted given the extremely short tube on my burner. There is no exposed tube outside the furnace. I may switch to a delay control later. If I do, would probably go with the honeywell 7284, but I will probably replace the furnace first. I also have a boiler and oil fired hot water heater. The boiler is big enough to handle all loads, so I ultimately want to downsize from three burners to one.This post was edited by an admin on December 17, 2013 7:07 PM.
Been there, done that...If it were that easy, would I post the question here? Neither Home Depot nor Lowes carry 3/16" flare fittings. Neither in store nor on-line. Smallest they carry are 1/4". As for the supply houses, most refuse to sell to me because I'm not a contractor. Sad but true around here. This is especially true if there are contractors at the counter when I walk in. Little or big doesn't matter. F.W. Webb, Plimpton & Hills, Torrco, and the small independents. Only one I've had any luck with is WinAir, but they don't have much in the way of burner parts. I can buy control units, igniters, electrodes on amazon and even at Home Cheapo, but the supply houses don't want my money.
As I said, I did find the fitting at an auto parts store and, interestingly, they said they provide a lot of parts for repairing furnaces and boilers. I used it and it's working, so far so good.
3/16" Oil Flares:You may find a few 3/16" flare fittings but you will look long and hard to find tubing to use in less than a 50' roll unless you have a close relationship with a AC/Refrigeration contractor who probably doesn't have any either.
The kit that Billtwocase mentions below is the way to go.
Another thing that is scratching my mind, what is the rated RPM of the motor. Some model AF's are 1725 RPM motors and I don't think that they make a "CleenCut" pump in 1725 RPM mode.
If you raise up the transformer, on the left side of the blower case, in the same side as the pump at about a 1:30 O' Clock position, there is a knock out. Most kits supply a 1/2" conduit nipple and locknuts. The valve goes there. The wires aren't exposed. If you ever see a oil valve hanging out of that hole and it looks like your red haired step child installed it, its because they didn't use the kit.
You probably won't be buying an oil kit if the R 8184 was the cause of your problems. Oil valves are nice though. I understand that in some jurisdictions like New York City, they are required. No drippy stuff on those critters.
if you can findBeckett part# 5669, that is what you need. It will be a Honeywell delayed oil valve, 2 nozzle lines, 2 1/8" brass 1/2 flare elbows, and the body mounting kit. How about going with Clean-cut pumps? Also you asked about the supply line from the tank to burner. What will the firing rates be per burner? You said there would be a total of 3. You may need 1/2" line