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    Repair PEX in a slab? (3 Posts)

  • Norm Kerr Norm Kerr @ 7:36 AM
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    Repair PEX in a slab?

    Does anyone know of a way to repair PEX tubing in a concrete slab? My situation: new concrete slab with Roth PEX tuning in it (for radiant floor heat) needs to be cut (which will cut thru the tubing). If there is a way to repair the tubing with some sort of splice and some clever technique to chip away the concrete around the end of the tubes after diamond saw cutting the slab, then I'd be in business. Or is there no other choice than a whole new slab? Help! I really appreciate any input on this. Norm Kerr
  • Kal Row Kal Row @ 7:29 AM
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    if the zurn system \"splices\" fit your tubing...

    then that’s the way to go, as their splice only has the friction of 6ft of pex, and they guarantee that it will break everywhere else first – in fact they recommend not bothering to start with a new roll of pex every time you do a slab – just use what you have, splice to a new roll as needed you will need to expose 9” to do it, but it only takes up 2” when done – I personally would put silicone grease on it, and heat shrink tubing around it before pouring concrete on it – the coal ash in many concretes is pretty acidic
  • Mark Eatherton Mark Eatherton @ 8:32 AM
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    Precision Jack Hammer Surgery...

    Doesn't exist:-( Once you've cut through the tubes, you'll need to remove enough concrete to expose 6 to 9" of tube on either side of the cut. You can then buckle in a new piece of plastic, using copper crimp rings and brass couplings. Before you put this assembly together, slip on a peice of heat shrink tube. Pressure test the spliced connections at 100 PSI (air or hydrostatic.) Once the assembly is complete, CAREFULLY apply heat to the heat shrink tube, which should be properly positioned. Cover with cement and begin law suit for person responsible for causing you to have to do this in the first place... (Just KIDDING about the last part. Remeber this, the tubing is most likely on the bottom of the slab. If you only score the slab an inch or two deep, you may not hit the tubes with the saw. There's still the jackhammer points and chisels to contend with, but with a little early planning,(infrared camera) you should be able to determine exactly where they are and take necessary evasive actions around them, doing minimal damage to the tube. If the EVOH barrier is compromised, replace the tube section as a whole (or would that be hole...) G'Luck! ME
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