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    2 pipe steam Radiator not heating / Traps / System Replace ? (6 Posts)

  • Andrew Henry Andrew Henry @ 10:48 PM
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    Keep the steam

    Tx for the reply. The traps at the end of the radiators are Hoffman Specialty 17c. At the end of main steam in the basement, on each side of the run, are Hoffman No. 75 Main Vent Air Valves one rated 15 lbs max, the other 10 lbs. The 10 lb is obvioslsy older. It leaked at one point about a month ago. Father took off nipple and poked around top. No longer leaks water but now constantlt spews steam. (other one hisses air at begining and stops which I assume is its function) I'm assuming the old one needs to be replaced ?? There is also a 10 lb valve on one side of the return pipe near the boiler but I'm not sure what does is for.
  • Andrew Henry Andrew Henry @ 10:51 PM
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    2 pipe steam Radiator not heating / Traps / System Replace ?

    Tx for the reply. Is this something I could do, or do reccomend a professional. (Although I don't trust many with steam. Owners old guy was in and never considered the traps as an issue for radiator problem) Do I just need bellows insert ? What kind if you know? The traps at the end of the radiators are Hoffman Specialty 17c. At the end of main steam in the basement, on each side of the run, are Hoffman No. 75 Main Vent Air Valves one rated 15 lbs max, the other 10 lbs. The 10 lb is obvioslsy older. It leaked at one point about a month ago. Father took off nipple and poked around top. No longer leaks water but now constantly spews steam. (other one hisses air at begining and stops which I assume is its function) I'm assuming the old one needs to be replaced ??
  • Steamhead (in transit) Steamhead (in transit) @ 11:14 PM
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    Main vents

    the older one is definitely bad. Measure the length and diameter of each steam main. We can tell you if the existing #75s are sized right, and if not, what to replace them with. Also tell us what vent is on the return if it's not a 75. This vent gets rid of the air coming from the radiators. Air and water can pass thru a steam trap like the 17C, but steam should close it. Hoffman makes replacement elements for their 17C traps. So do Tunstall and Barnes & Jones, and they make good stuff, but if you can get the original-equipment parts or updated versions of them, go for it. To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • Andrew Henry Andrew Henry @ 10:03 PM
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    2 pipe steam radiator not heating / trap / system replace ?

    I have just purchased a home with a two pipe steam heat system (The main supply and return lines split just after the boiler to feed each side of the house. Also, each individual radiator runs off the main (i.e. it is not connected to another radiator) and has its own return line to the main returns in the basement. I purchased The Lost Art of Steam Heat, while it has given some nice background, it is somewhat over my head. I have a couple of issues. One radiator on the second floor takes considerably more time than all the others (save one) to heat. The return line on the other side of the trap feels just as hot as the radiator itself once the radiator gets up to full heat. However, by this time the downstairs is extremely hot. The other radiator on the second floor (and this is the first radiator fed off one side of the main from the basement) does not get hot on the bottom at all (It eventually feels like it is warming on the bottom but the rate is slow compared to the top and I am wondering if it is just heat transfer to the metal or water that may be clogging the system). From reading the book I understand that trap failure at the return on each radiator is a common problem. However, in the fall I had new floor installed and four downstairs radiators were disconnected (with the steam supply valves closed and covered) and no steam appeared to be coming from the return side of the radiator which was only taped (as I understand may happen when the traps fail). 1) I am wondering if this is a likely trap failure ? (One failing in the open position and allowing the steam to run, and one in the closed causing the condensation to back up). 2) Is replacing the traps on the two problem radiators the best starting point? 3) Should I replace all the traps at once ? 4) How much should a new trap cost? (I can't find a price online but from similar products I am guessing $60-100) 5) What is the benefit to steam over hot water? Is it more energy efficient to run? 6) Should I convert to hot water ? (if the traps have to be replaced every 4-5 years (as suggested in the book) at 11 radiators @ $100.00 I am looking at $1,100 in traps alone ever 4 years. 7) Can a hot water system use any of the existing steam piping? 8) Should I convert to forced hot air? 9) Which system is the most cost effective to install ?
  • Jim Bennett Jim Bennett @ 10:14 PM
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    Traps

    Tunstall (http://www.tunstall-inc.com/) and Barnes & Jones (http://www.barnesandjones.com/) are two companies that make replacement elements for steam traps. Less expensive and time consuming than replaceing the entire trap. Jim
    Jim Bennett
  • Steamhead (in transit) Steamhead (in transit) @ 10:24 PM
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    Keep the steam

    many of your traps are probably original and look how long they have lasted. Trying to convert that system to hot-water means you'll run at least 10 times the pressure which can result in major leaks. And you'll never be comfortable with forced-air. This is probably a Vapor system, designed to run on less than a pound of steam pressure. Vapor was the Cadillac of heating in its day and is still one of the best out there. Maintain yours and it will thank you with years of efficient comfort. And if the power fails, it won't freeze and burst like a hot-water system can, since most of the pipes drain completely dry when the system is off. Have you found any manufacturer's info appearing on any of the system's hardware- original traps, radiator valves and any lumps of iron in the pipng near the boiler? To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
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