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JaredM

JaredM

Joined on March 20, 2003

Last Post on April 3, 2013

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Update Monoflow

@ April 3, 2013 11:06 PM in Got a Favorite ways to get ride of monoflo systems?

Most people just leave it as is and install a new boiler.  There is a certain elegant simplicity with a well designed monflow system. 

If you were hell bent on gaining some headroom in the basement two options that come to mind are: 1) extend the (usually) 1/2" risers with heating pex back to a central mainfold -or- 2) re-pipe in reverse return fashion and keep all the piping in the joist bays. 

Pipe Dope for Steam

@ March 29, 2013 6:24 PM in Threaded connections

This subject has been argued by folks for years.  Do some searches on this board and you will find all manners of opinions.

For steam and water I use single strand wicking and a good quality pipe thread compound.  I usually grab some flavor of teflon based pipe thread compound. 

That's an oldie......

@ December 28, 2012 6:29 PM in old Powers pneumatic thermostat question

It looks like a night mode override lever found on dual mode pneumatic stats, but most dual mode stats have two setpoint dials.  I am not familiar with that stat.  Many pneumatic systems went into night mode (setback) by raising the system pressure to a higher level which triggered the stats to enter setback.  Way back each maker had a certain pressure they worked at....and they were all a little different, just because they could be.  The lever was used to override the thermostat back to occupied day mode.

Old Circulator

@ November 30, 2012 9:00 PM in Unwanted reverse flow between tees

You are thinking along the right lines.  A grundfos alpha would probably do well as someone else suggested.  If you still have the NRF22 you could try that and see what happens.  I just re-read everything and noted the 26-99 pump....that's alot of pump for a 55,000 btu system.  Have you calculated the head loss of your secondary circuit?

How about this

@ November 29, 2012 10:30 PM in Unwanted reverse flow between tees

Can you raise the setpoint on the boiler to compensate?  Let's say you raise the setpoint to 150F, with your mixing tees you will then raise the delivered supply temp closer to your goal of 140F.   

Reverse Flow and BTU's

@ November 29, 2012 10:15 PM in Unwanted reverse flow between tees

What goes in to a tee has to come out of a tee.

If you are getting reverse flow, and your description seems to describe it, then you have more flow in the secondary loop than the primary loop.   This sort of makes sense because you said you get reverse flow with more zones open.  Think about it and draw it out on paper or your mind's eye.....if the secondary has a higher flow than the primary some of the water from the secondary return HAS to mix with the water delivered to the first tee of the primary loop.   This may be explained by what I imagine is a high head loss (resistance to flow) inside that electric boiler.  I have never worked on an electric boiler so I am not familiar with them.

Now, does it matter to your application?  When you operate all or most of the zones does the boiler cycle off or is it heating continuous?  If it's delivering the heat to the radiant floor (and ultimately the house) you have achieved your goal.  Right?

Cord Connected Boiler

@ November 10, 2012 12:46 PM in Boiler electric feed on a male 3-prong S/O cord plug?

I have seen it done many times and it's a practical solution.

-But- It's a violation of the NEC electrical code.  The NEC allows for cord connected appliances when they will be disconnected frequently and a boiler or furnace would not be disconnected frequently.  It also has specific exceptions for things like dishwashers and garbage disposals.  If memory serves the NEC section to check out is 422.16 .

Good luck.

Pressure

@ January 28, 2012 4:29 PM in Re-occurring air problem

Assuming you are pumping away......I'd be looking at the boiler fill pressure.  Do you have enough for the difference in elevation between the boiler and the attic fan coil?

too little air

@ December 12, 2011 5:24 PM in Lennox gas furnace G24M4-75A-4

Your external static numbers are off the chart.   The furnace is not moving enough air and your temp rise shows it.    It sounds like you need more ductwork.

That furnace has a 4 ton blower, which means it will move 1600 cfm at  an external static of .5"  wc. 

@ January 1, 2009 6:00 PM in burnham dvle boiler

Clammy, A few years ago I pulled my hair out with an LEDV that just would not settle in and cooperate. What we finally determined that was because the basement had high walls and the boiler sat on the floor there was actually a negative draft created under certain conditions which was creating an unstable flame. I tried a bunch of things with Burnhams input to try and correct this. The final solution was to install a Riello direct vent burner (the one with the cast metal cover) which solved all of the problems. -Jared To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

bypass plug

@ December 30, 2008 3:36 PM in TigerLoop install

Don't forget to install the bypass plug into the pump (behind the plug in the return port)and then pipe your new flexible supplies into the pump. The plug comes with all new pumps in a small plastic bag and may or may not still be there. To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

@ June 29, 2008 11:58 AM in Rothenberger

I bought one some years ago. We use it on a fairly regular basis and it works just fine. Takes a little practice to get used to how to pull the tees and I found that an impact wrench makes it a little easier to use. I picked up a cheap Sears electric impact wrench at a yard sale along with a socket and it works well. The small indent tool is not as nice as the T-Drill notcher/indenter but if you keep your eyes out on ebay you can find them for sale occassionally To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Radiant Floor Garage

@ June 24, 2008 4:32 PM in Radiant floor for large truck shop

Kevin, I have been involved in two large garages with radiant floors. One was a truck repair shop, the other a very large bus maintenance facility (coach buses). The bus garage was speced out with two layers of re-bar, one at two inches above sub-grade and the other 3 inches below the top of slab. From memory it was a 10" pour. The tubing was tied to the lower layer of re-bar. That job has absolutely no cracks other than at the control joints. We avoided crossing the control joints with the tubing where possible. Where the tubing did pass the control joints we wrapped the tubing with foam insulation to allow for movement of the adjacent slabs. Only about 18" of insulation at each crossing. The other garage was a much smaller facility with a 6" slab and wire mesh. On that job we attached the tubing to the foam insulation and the concrete was poured over. Over the years there have been some cracks formed but no leak issues. -JM To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Electronic Aquastats

@ January 9, 2008 9:23 PM in Electronic Aquastats

In the past few weeks we have had three seperate occasions of electronic aquastats failing. These are the Honeywell models that are increasingly being used as high limit aquastat relays on hot water boilers. It seems like the oem's are switching over to these. Two of them are cold start versions...One is the triple aquastat version. Is anyone else seeing anything similar? -Jared To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Small Compressor

@ December 29, 2007 10:37 AM in air pump for x tanks

We've used this little guy from Grainger for a number of years now. It's light and compact but needs 120 volts. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3JR69 To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

@ November 20, 2007 9:11 PM in Munchkin E15/F15

I Have not contacted them yet. It's been a busy week. I will contact them tomorrow....I have a new pressure switch in hand. One question though....Is the vision software I was given after going through the training class capable of removing the pressure switch? To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Cleaned

@ November 18, 2007 9:13 PM in Munchkin E15/F15

This boiler was cleaned at the tail end of last winter. I verified that the drain trap is clear last night when I was there. Jared To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Vent Piping

@ November 18, 2007 11:05 AM in Munchkin E15/F15

Ken, It's 3" PVC intake and exhaust with good pitch. It IS a mostly horizontal run from the boiler to the outside wall. The vent rises about 6" over a 15' horizontal run. -Jared To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Pressure Switch

@ November 18, 2007 10:56 AM in Munchkin E15/F15

I have a customer with an 80M Munchkin that has had repeated faults over the 3-4 years that it's been installed with the pressure switch. We had lockout issues with this boiler from soon after it was installed that I recall were pressure switch issues. The 925 board was replaced within a few weeks of installation and it seems to go about 9 months or so and the problem crops up again. The switch itself was replaced during the last year's heating season and last night it decided to fault again. The drain is clear and draining water. The vent is not blocked or restricted. I got it running last night by exercising the switch and it ran like a champ. This is the same way I got it running last year. I will get a new switch ordered tomorrow and plan to contact HTM tech support as well. Has anyone else seen issues like this? The vent is not excessive....20 feet of pipe with 2-90's and 2-45's. I have not had this problem with other Munhkins we have installed. I am at wit's end with this thing. Any insights or suggestions would be appreciated. -JaredM To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Defrost

@ October 28, 2007 10:11 PM in Dual Fuel systems (heat-pump w/ Fossil Fuel)

Yes, they will go into defrost. Defrost cycles are the most common when the outdoor RH is high...such as during a period of rain. I usually adjust the outdoor stat to just above the balance point...and I usually use a seperate fossil fuel kit from my preferred heat pump manufacturer. The kit I use has a defrost feature available that cycles the fossil fuel burner on/off to temper defrost air. The balance point usually falls at around 30F in my area. BTW, I am located in NY. Heat pumps are not that tough a sell even here in the northeast. You do have to explain to the customer exactly what to expect from them so they are not disappointed. -Jared To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Balance Point

@ October 28, 2007 8:28 PM in Dual Fuel systems (heat-pump w/ Fossil Fuel)

Calculating the balance point is a useful exercise which will answer your question for the specific job at hand. Draw a simple graph with BTU's on one axis and outdoor temps an the other axis. Now, draw a line representing the heat loss of the building that begins with 0 btu's at 68 degrees or so and ends at the total heat loss at your design outdoor temp. Next you will need the performance data of your particular heat pump. The data should give you a capacity of your heat pump matched with your indoor coil at 47F and 17F. You can pretty much draw a line through and extending past those points on your graph. Where the lines intersect is your balance point....the outdoor temp at which the capacity of the heat pump matches the heat loss of your structure. Hope that helps. BTW, we've been installing hybrid heat pumps for over twenty years and customers love 'em as long as they understand 'em. The best of both worlds. -Jared To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Sprinter Mileage

@ August 12, 2007 6:24 AM in Isuzu or Sprinter?

I drive an '05 140" high roof and get about 17 mpg. That is with a laddder rack which I know cuts the mileage a little. -Jared To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
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