Heating Help

Uponor CCN

@ January 12, 2012 9:31 PM in The big one

Chris,

Since you already are familiar with Uponor, have you looked into the Climate Control - Network system?

It will do what you are looking for. It is basically a DDC system scaled down for the residential level with "open code" for customizing

take a look at www.uponorcontrols.com

Dave H

Remote Snowmelt Sensor

@ December 13, 2011 2:00 PM in Snowmelt

I have used these in the past when the slab sensor was forgotten. (Concrete just cures way too quickly!!)

ETI makes a sensor that does not mount in the snowmelt area, but you don't mount it on the ground. It has a moisture sensor and an air  temperature sensor.

THe LCD-1 or 3 works just great

EP Heating Manifolds

@ April 5, 2011 10:33 PM in uponer ep heatin manifolds

Mark,

We have developed new manifolds for heating http://www.uponorpro.com/Modal-Pages/Products-and-Tools-Modal-Page.aspx?id={F16A77CE-2448-4FAA-802C-6A55762542A2}

bman, is this system installed in the concrete? If yes, then you have a really cold slab trying to heat up first and then trying to heat up your rooms.
If not, take a look at the manual that came with the manifold, on page 5 ( I think) dictates which side of the manifold is the supply and which return.

The flow meter side is the supply. If backwards, the flowrate will be greatly diminished and you will have a large temp drop.

If you don't have the manual, take a look here http://www.uponorpro.com/Technical-Support/Manuals.aspx

Hope this helps

Dave H

Mix Valve Position

@ January 12, 2011 3:30 PM in Uponor Belimo Valve

That depends on the piping. Typically it should be set in the "I" position.

But it depends on how it is piped in. If you hold the valve in your hand and the boiler supply is on your left, radiant supply is on the right and the radiant return is in the bottom, it needs to be in the "I" position.

Dave H.

CCN

@ March 27, 2010 9:02 AM in Controls Suggestion

Most of this is already written into the code or has been done in the past, so if custom is needed, a "cut and paste" is all that may be needed.

Dave Holdorf
Uponor East Field Tech
(former RTI Engineer/Designer/Tech Support/........)

Work with

@ March 27, 2010 8:57 AM in heat loss calculation

your distributor. They may have knowledgeable staff that already posses the software and the skill to do it properly and if not, he will probably know someone that does like a local rep.

Uponor Climate Control - Network System

@ March 13, 2010 7:51 PM in Controls Suggestion

take a look at the attached. very similar operation except most of the house was RFH 

Special function button

@ February 16, 2010 2:06 PM in Help! Change Wirsbo t-stat back to Fahrenheit!

here is where what we call the "Special Function Button"

If your thermostat does not have this button, then a power down may do the trick, if not, it may need to be replaced.

Hope this helps

Dave H

Actuator installation

@ February 2, 2010 3:27 PM in Wirsbro Thermal Actuator

there is no "adjustment" to a thermal actuator on the manifold.

tighten the ring by hand, and snap the actuator in place. That's it

the actuator only knows two positions, open or close.

The reason for "initializing" the actuator is there is a chance the end switch would be made and therefore create a call for the circulator. The actuator is shipped slightly open so that it is easier to install on the manifold.

Humidity and RFH

@ December 30, 2009 1:04 PM in Adding Humidity

Thanks for the response Bill.

I am working on a system with  a customer that has that exact setup. Honeywell trusteam unit (not sure of the size and model) and placed into the ductwork.

 I originally had it controlled by when a call for humidity, it just turned on the fan. Yes it was blowing cool air but it was also puddling in the ductwork and dripping all over the floor (air handler is in basement).

So based upon your response, there is not an absolute need for heated air to work with the humidifier.

So how is the puddling happening? Humidifier oversized or ductwork undersized? Do we need to adjust the flow from the humidifier?

Thanks again

Dave H.

Adding Humidity

@ December 29, 2009 7:10 PM in Adding Humidity

Being a wethead for so many years, a topic that has popped into my head recently has been humidification to a home.

More specifically, a home with Radiant Floor Heating throughout, chilled water AC system with hot water coils also included in the ductwork.

The radiant is installed to be the primary heat source and can handle the load without any supplemental.

My question, how does one go about designing and installing a whole house humidifier without ;
1) turning on the fan coil and blowing cold air in the space,

2) making sure the air is warm to accept the humidifier, and

3) not overheat the spaces

Thanks in advance

Dave H

RTI Variable Speed Control

@ December 10, 2009 3:50 PM in RTI Injection mixing control

That control was manufactured by Heat-Timer for RTI.

From their website (Heat-Timer) it looks like they have updated the control, but here is the link

http://www.heat-timer.com/En/ProductDetail.aspx?Id=37

Dave Holdorf
Uponor

(formerly of RTI)

Wireless stats with wired actuators

@ November 20, 2009 7:04 PM in Wireless Thermostats

Check out this link for hydronic systems with manifolds. may be what you are looking for.

http://www.uponor-usa.com/~/media/Files/Technical%20Documents/heating%20resource%20docs/Climate%20Control%20Zoning%20FAQ.aspx?sc_lang=en

Dave H.

Its all about the

@ November 23, 2008 10:34 PM in Radiant not radiating

Delta T. Sending out 165 and coming back at 120. Like ME said, its either the heat loss is too large or the circ is too small, which is exactly related too each other. Remember gpm = BTUh/delta T x 500 Adjust one of those values and it messes with all the rest. But of course the only way to use this formula to remedy your situation is to "Do the Math" and you can never, ever be wrong.

Suspended Joist Systems

@ September 15, 2006 3:06 PM in radiant tube attached to joist?????

Of course the most important thing to do (or have performed) is the heat loss. Make sure that the underfloor system is going to perform to expectations. Sure, plate systems are the best way to get the heat transfer from pex to the flooring system, but if the math works for the heat transfer, then the math works. As for nailing the tubing on the sides of th joists, I wouldn't do it. You need the air to transfer the heat from the pex to the flooring system. However, I have seen it done some pretty creative ways. Attached is a picture of a system installed via pulling the subfloor since the ceiling below was already finished.

Honey or vinegar

@ January 18, 2006 7:54 AM in Wallies: Please help payment problem!

Like Brad was saying, let it sit there and revisit after a day or so, think about, don't brood over it. One point, the first paragraph is strong and sets the tone for the entire letter and everything else after will be in that same tone

Radiant Technology Stat

@ August 31, 2005 12:59 PM in Radiant Technology Thermostat

There were several versions over the years. Do you know the part number from them or maybe post a pic and I will help you out as much as I can.

Pierced pipe repairs

@ July 25, 2005 10:17 AM in The wood floor guy is freakin' out..............................

If you charge $250 a hole and the nail goes through both sides, is that a charge for two holes :) or if using staples can it be 4 holes :) ????!!!! It sounds like with the layer of ply on top of the sleepers you've got alot of room. How about making sure the sleepers are 16" O.C. and attach the ply but nail the hardwood into the sleepers only?

Know how do do it

@ April 4, 2005 3:25 PM in Wholesaler Relationships

Know how do it yourself does not always mean doing yourself always. I'd like guys to know what they are doing, but if you have a good relationship with the designer and trust him, he is providing a service to you. If you are not sure of the designs, at least you have the knowledge to check. As ME said, be prepared to become a part time desk jockey when the in-house designer at the wholesaler already is one. Think of him as an employee that you have without giving him a paycheck.

Burst and frozen pex

@ February 12, 2005 12:00 PM in Pex frozen in concrete slab of new home

Tom- Main reason the pex burst in the slab and not at the exposed areas (copper manifold and such), is that the tubing doesn't typically burst where the ice is. When ice is created it takes up more space that water. As the ice grows, it starts to exert pressure on the water that is still in the pex. Since water is incompressible, the pressure exerted onto the pex is extremely high. So, at your burst points, there was water and at the supply and return parts of the loops was frozen pushing the water in the middle.

Freezing PEX

@ January 19, 2005 4:32 PM in Wirsbo Freezing

Typically the burst occurs where there isn't ice. Two ice slugs form at different ends, compresses the water (which isn't compressible) and exerts a large amount of pressure on the pex. So the burst shows where the water is and not where the ice is.

Screws and plates

@ January 19, 2005 3:22 PM in Joist Trak plates

Wayne, Best suggestion is to get a couple of real small screw guns, say of the 7.2 volt version (around 20 bucks or so). Put away the large monsters like any 14.4 volters. When installing the trak at this stage of the game, 3 screws are all you need to hold it up until the pex comes (one in the middle, one on each end on opposite sides. You typically don't need all 10 screws in the plates, just as long as the plates are in contact with the subfloor.