Joined on December 4, 2002
Last Post on September 20, 2013
@ September 20, 2013 4:02 PM in unit heater ventingNo mechanical vent, strictly gravity, i believe the total BTU's for both units is 200,000, collars are 6" oval to 6" round, the total lenght from unit to the 7" tee is no more than probably 24" total developed length, single stage gas valve
@ September 20, 2013 1:39 PM in unit heater ventingWe have 2 Reznor F-100 unit heaters that share a common 7" b-vent that extends through the roof with a rain cap. The units are no more that 30" apart. The unit that connects to the branch of the 7" tee is cutting out on high limit. if i replace the tee with a wye and 45 and lengthen the piece on the roof will that help with drafting. We have 4 other units that are individually vented and we are not having this issue with any of them.
edit: these pictures are all rotated 90 degrees counter clockwise, I don't know how to rotate them before attaching
@ July 17, 2012 11:07 AM in condenser sizingGererically speaking is there a rule of thumb on condenser sizing for sq footage of conditioned space, 2880 sq ft.
@ April 11, 2012 12:48 PM in Cloudy hot waterRemoved stops, removed compression rings and cut pipe back to eliminate depression where ring was, new faucet. same results.
@ April 4, 2012 8:20 AM in Cloudy hot waterKH,
No i did not, we believe it is caused by a combination of things, temperature, pressure and the anode rod. Ours cleared up pretty well and we don't really know why. Our next step would be to remove the Anode rod from the water heater but because it was happening on both the hot and cold we have not done that yet. I really think she may be on the end of a water main that may have something to do with it.
It ( well our circumstances) is not harmful, it is trapped gas(air), and if you let it set a while it will clear up.
@ March 15, 2012 10:13 AM in Cloudy hot waterRemoving the anode is about the only thing i have not done yet, that will be my next move. The water is cloudy all times of the day, even running continuously it still remains cloudy. However at some moment it will clear up considerably but not completely and we can't seem to figure out what causes it to clear up.
Thanks for your input.
@ March 13, 2012 9:55 AM in Cloudy hot waterThis is a typical condo. What is wierd is the amount of cloudiness and the fact that it only happens in one fixture. The water service comes in the basement and runs across the ceiling to the water heater with the exception of one 3/4"line which feeds the kitchen, (the other fixtures are on the other side of the house above the heater) from the heater it has a 3/4" hot water pipe that runs along the ceiling to the kitchen. The kitchen has milky white hot and cold water. The anod erod is magnesium which is standard for this area. No other neighbors have the problem even though they have the same condo layout and most likely the same plumber did the install. One thing that i did not mention is that the service had Magnetic Fluid Conditioning system attached to it which has been removed.
@ March 9, 2012 8:37 AM in Cloudy hot waterI hope this pcture will open, It is a JPEG file, this a what i consider a clear glass compared to what it usually looks like.
@ March 9, 2012 8:15 AM in Cloudy hot waterYou got me with precipitate, i am concerened that there may be something in the piping that is causing excesive turbulence. I have emailled the Copper Dev. Assoc. to ask if they have ever had a circunmstance like this before but i don't really expect a response from them. I am going to shut off the dishwasher stop to see if that will make a diffence.
@ March 8, 2012 8:36 PM in Cloudy hot waterCopper lines, yes, the dishwasher is teeded in with a 1/2" tee and angle stop. It may be possible that this connection may be causing some sort of venturi effect, never even considered that a possoble cause. Maybe a leak at the air gap fitting on the dishwasher is pulling air in but not leaking water out ?.
@ March 8, 2012 9:11 AM in Cloudy hot waterI have a customer that is getting milky white water( as white as the background on this page) from the kitchen sink faucet, only the hot and only this fixture. the rest of the house is crystal clear. We replaced the faucet thinking it may be pulling in air through a small leak in the cartridge caising a venturi effect, no luck. we then disconnected the supply tube and we got the same milky water. I have drained and flushed the water heater, it also has a point of use charcoal filter on the spout but with the filter on or off we get the same. We are located North of Chicago with Lake Michgan water that is as they say the one of best treatment plants in the country. I've been in this industry for 33 years and have never seen anything like this, can anyone lend a suggestion.
@ November 29, 2011 4:08 PM in Plate and frame heat exchangers for DomesticDoes anyone have input into plate and frame heat exchangers for domestinc hot water. Boiler provudes hot water to storage tank, radiant load comes from tank, snow melt comes from tank and a small 5-6 GPM heat exchanger provides domestic hot water. My problem is how to get a recuirc line piped in for domestic hot water, it would need to flow through the heat exchanger on a timer but not sure how.
@ August 11, 2011 7:30 PM in Flatp plate heat exchangersDoes anyone have comments on small flat plate heat exchangers for domestic hot water/radiant floor and solar heat transfer.
Pretty vague question, just want to get some basic comments
@ May 3, 2011 7:07 PM in A/C sizingThe outside db is 97 and the inside db is 75 with a relative humidity of 50%. I am not a technical engineer but the db's seem way off, i don't think we ever get that warm here in Chicago except maybe once a year if were lucky. The relative humidity though may be on the low side.
@ May 1, 2011 7:37 PM in A/C sizingThank you for all the responses. I am not sure of the ARI, that is not lsted as ARI on the design Information, it was sized with Wrightsoft from our local HVAC supplier, It is for a home in the Chicago area and the reason i ask is we mostly use it for dehumidification, thinking if the system runs longer it may actually work better at removing humidity. The biggest heat gain i think will be from the West in the afternoon because it is on a lake and there is nothing to block the sun in the afternoon, however because it is on the lake we almost always heve a nice breeze. In the past the only time of the year we actually need AC is in late July and August when it actually gets warm in this area of the country. Because of the usage only a couple of months at best, but i don't want to short change myself either for over the long term is not a tremendous amount in purchase price but operating costs are the trade off sometimes.
@ May 1, 2011 2:13 PM in A/C sizingI would like to ask when siizing a A/C system and the calculations determne that the required total capacity at .70 SHR is 4.6 tons, should the system bi sized at 5 tons or drop it to 4 tons.
@ February 6, 2011 3:07 PM in radiant loop lenghtsI am installing radiant tube in a staple up system with aluminum panels and i wanted to have all equal (8) 250' loops with 1/2" tubing per floor, however due to beams that can not be drilled and also some of the layout criteria dictates that some of my loops will be in excess of the 250' desired maximun lenght. What are the downfalls of exceeding 250', maybe 2 loops that weill be 285'+/-.
@ December 3, 2010 9:00 PM in Heat transfer platesCan anyone shed some information about Aluminum verses Graphite Heat transfer plates for a staple up system. There is only one brand that i can find of the Graphite but the cost verses savings is concerning.
@ August 11, 2010 9:25 AM in Panel vs. Evacuated tube cost benefitsCan any one explain the cost benefits of Evacuated Tube verses Flat Panel for Domestic Hot water only. We are proposing either 2 flat panel or 2 sets of evacuated tube and are only going for domestic hot water, The location is Midwest about 40 miles north of Chicago. I am undecided if the cost of the tube is going to outperform the flat panel and if the cost upgrade is going to pay off.
@ November 16, 2009 3:26 PM in air makeup for radiant heatDoes anyone have any comments or leads on units to keep fresh air make up on a home with radiant heat and tightly insulated.
@ December 2, 2008 4:01 PM in fresh air make upbulding a new home with radiant heat and high velocity air conditioning, can anyone recommend a fresh air louver that can be installed to supply additonal combustion/fresh air to a tighly sealed home.
@ November 2, 2008 11:05 AM in Hot water lines cracklingIt is in the hot water supply line, saeems to be in the location of a tee or a 90, the water temp leaving the boilet is at about 140 and returning at 125-130 degrees. No relief valve discharge.