Joined on February 22, 2005
Last Post on January 22, 2014
@ January 22, 2014 5:20 PM in Is Gasoila thread sealant sufficient to use with ¾" pipes for steam rad?Hello,
I am going to replacing a cracked Govboard radiator with the equivalent Baseray from Burnham. It is 2 pipe steam.
The inlet and outlet are each ¾" threaded. I first tried using Gasoila sealant and yellow teflon tape (I only wrapped the threads twice). The tape looked like it just bunched up against the radiator and did not go into the threaded holes.
I removed tape and used a liberal amount of Gasoila and rethreaded everything.
Should this be sufficient for ¾" connections?
I am in CT, and the radiator is going in our apt in NYC, so I want to be sure before I bring it there and we have a problem.
@ August 20, 2013 7:33 AM in Can cracked/leaking Governale Gov Board cast iron radiator be repaired?Last winter, i heard a sputtering sound and saw little jet if steam and specks of water coming out of crack. I shut off valve, and we had no water coming out. I may add more JB Weld at lower end of patch to reinforce it and hope for the best.
@ August 20, 2013 5:51 AM in Can cracked/leaking Governale Gov Board cast iron radiator be repaired?But, what does this say about my repair? is the repair adequate, or will I get a steam leak? It held at 50-60 psi of water with what looked like one small drop at around 15 min. I then left hose attached and water off and did not see any steady drops.
@ August 19, 2013 9:21 PM in Can cracked/leaking Governale Gov Board cast iron radiator be repaired?The steam pressure would be set by building. I'm just wondering whether i should try to fix the crack a little better. As I had mentioned, I had water under about z50-60 psi in radiator for close to z15 min before I saw a drop of water. I assume steam pressure would be much lower, but old we see a leak in present situation? Thanks
@ August 19, 2013 5:11 PM in Can cracked/leaking Governale Gov Board cast iron radiator be repaired?Found three tiny pinholes in the crack that I had noticed. Filed down a channel, cleaned with acetone and patched with JB Weld.
Today, about 30 hrs later, I filled radiator with water and left hose on. water pressure is between 50-60 psi.
I checked radiator several times and saw no water. After 15 minutes, when I went to shut off water at hose bib, I noticed one small drop at base of where crack had been Again, this was at 50-60psi for 15 minutes.
We will be running low pressure steam through radiator. What do you think?
@ July 29, 2013 10:17 AM in Can cracked/leaking Governale Gov Board cast iron radiator be repaired?I am the owner. I called Governale, and they said it is only a 1 yr warranty. I will try JB Weld. I guess it is worth a shot.
@ July 28, 2013 11:44 AM in Can cracked/leaking Governale Gov Board cast iron radiator be repaired?We have a Governale Gov Board cast iron baseboard radiator in our apt. It is only about 5 years old and is cracked and leaks at the edge of the oval opening. Crack is about 1.5" long. Interestingly, this is exact spot where old one leaked.
Is it possible to bring this to someone who can weld it or otherwise repair it?
If not, does it come apart easily? Mine has 2 sections that look like they are bolted together in the back.
I have enclosed a photo of the crack. I have the radiator disconnected presently. Thanks
@ February 14, 2013 7:40 PM in Do these Gov-Board (or Burnham Baseray) radiators comes apart?pic
@ February 14, 2013 2:02 PM in Do these Gov-Board (or Burnham Baseray) radiators comes apart?We have a Governale Gov-Board radiator that is indentical to Burnham Baseray. One section seems to be leaking. Radiators is only 5 yrs old. Do these tend to come apart easily so I could change a section myself? Thanks. Dave
@ February 13, 2013 3:18 PM in brand name for baseboard steam radiator (looks like Burnham)with 200 apts. not sure what would cause it to fail. Just got new boiler a year ago.
@ February 13, 2013 12:09 PM in brand name for baseboard steam radiator (looks like Burnham)Need to just replace whole radiator? I guess there is no recourse as it is out of warranty.
@ February 13, 2013 10:57 AM in brand name for baseboard steam radiator (looks like Burnham)They were not helpful. She basically said it shouldn't have failed but is out of warranty. Guy at supply house said he didn't expect it, but "sometimes they leak."
Don't know what else to do except either get new radiator or repair old. Here is photo.
@ February 13, 2013 10:04 AM in brand name for baseboard steam radiator (looks like Burnham)to rebuild radiator with push nipples between parts that were leaking? Are these rebuilable like older radiators? Thanks
@ February 12, 2013 4:23 PM in brand name for baseboard steam radiator (looks like Burnham)So I was able to read the name. It is Gov Board by Governale. Back in 2008, we had replaced a leaking one with this new one.
Now, 5 yrs later, it has a small pinhole leak coming from inside one of the slotted openings.
When I called the company, they said they only offer a 1 yr warranty. I would think cast iron should be warranted for 10 yrs minimum!
Will this tiny leak continue to get larger, or should I just wait to see? Currently, a drop of water will come out and dry before it even runs down the front.
Or is there anything repairable in it? The saleman mentioned a seal.
@ February 12, 2013 10:11 AM in brand name for baseboard steam radiator (looks like Burnham)We have an old radiator that looks like the Burnham Baseray with oblong slots. It has so much paint on it that I cannot read the name. Does anyone know the brand? It looks alot longer than Burnham. Thanks
@ October 22, 2011 10:14 AM in Water temps for hydro-airHello,
We have a Hydroair system with a gas-fired boiler and a buffer tank. The buffer tank has its own aquastat and is the only device that can cause the boiler to turn on. Currently, I have it set for 170 degrees for the hydroair system.
The boiler has a high fire burner and an operating burner. I have the high fire set to only operate when the outdoor temps are below 20 degrees and have had no problems over the previous 2 winters.
I have the operating water temp for the boiler set at 180 degrees and the high fire set at 160. So high fire burner will only come on if inlet water temp in boiler is less than 160 (and outdoor temp is less than 20), and boiler turns off at 180 degrees. Buffer tank stops calling for heat at 170 degrees.
I am trying to make the system as economical as possible while balancing comfort. Does anyone have advice as to what would be good numbers for each parameter?
@ October 17, 2011 5:33 PM in Lochinvar EBN300 boiler continuously cycling on and offWe have a Lochinvar EBN300 boiler which is piped to an Ergomax buffer tank. When the ergomax thermostat calls for heat, the pump pumps water from the tank to the boiler and also trip the tt switch on boiler. I noticed the boiler seemed to be cycling alot. I went downstairs and looked at the temps.
The Ergomax thermostat is set at 160 degrees. The boiler operating temp is set at 180. The Ergomax was calling for heat, and the temp of the water was only 140 degrees. The boiler would come on and gas burner would light. Gas burner would stay on for 10 seconds and shut off. Boiler would go through purge and start right back up again.
I know it can't be wiring of Ergomax to boiler, because when I turn Ergomax thermostat down, everything stops running and boiler shuts off.
Pump is operating as is flow sensor as they will not allow gas burner to light if malfunctioning.
Temp gauges on boiler piping show inlet temp of about 140 and outlet of about 160 when boiler is running.
Any other ideas?
@ October 7, 2011 8:24 PM in Warm air seeping out of hydroair ventsfor the damper. I turned the master bedroom thermostat up high. The damper was not open. I then twisted the actuator a little, and it opened on its own. I did not hear anything like binding metal on metal. Not sure what was binding. Is either the actuator or the damper supposed to be lubricated? If so, what should I use? Thanks.
@ October 7, 2011 7:59 AM in Warm air seeping out of hydroair ventsJust turned on the heat to try I out this AM. The a/c worked fine this summer as far as blowing from the vents. I noticed that the hydroair coil was nice a hot, and the fan was on (Trane). But the air was only seeping out of the vents. Usually, you can hear it blowing out. We have 2 zones. There are two motorized shutters in the ductwork. One is for MBR and one for other 2 BRs.
From the look of the positions of the motor shafts, it looks like MBR one is open and second one is closed. Which is correct. But very little airflow in MBR. Filters etc are clean. Could it be that shutter is somehow binding? What are they typically lubricated with?
@ April 1, 2011 10:45 AM in system pressureBut I always turn off the gate valve underneath to prevent leaks or air entry. The vent is not clogged. So should I raise pressure at boiler until water just comes out of vent when I open it?
@ April 1, 2011 10:37 AM in system pressurewhy no air or water will come out when I press on vent. I assumed it was because the press was too low. Normally, I get a little water when I press on the needle in the valve.
@ April 1, 2011 10:17 AM in system pressureWe have 3 hydro-air handlers. Our highest one is a good 35 feet above the boiler. One summer, about 3 years ago, we went away for a couple weeks, and I shut off the boiler. The pressure in the system dropped, and the system sucked air through the vent on the top floor air handler. So in the winter, the upper most air handler was air-locked.
I currently keep the system pressure at 24 and have had no other issues with air in system. Also, on the uppermost unit, I have a gate valve under the vent which I shut off. Occasionally, I will open the gate valve and purge a tiny bit of air out of the vent then reclose the valve.
Lately, I have noticed that the pressure of the system is around 21-22 with no obvious leaks. If I go to the uppermost unit and press the schrader valve on the vent, no air or fluid comes out. I assume that it is because the system pressure is too low to purge out of the vent.
If I leave the gate valve directly below the vent in the closed position, is there any problem with running the system at a lower pressure (20-21psi) since the system is closed? I would assume that there is nowhere for air to enter the system in the uppermost air handler.
I hate to keep adding water as it dilutes the glycol in the system.