Joined on September 14, 2004
Last Post on April 1, 2014
@ April 1, 2014 3:55 PM in Best quote ever Dan :)Dan,
In the decades I've known you imho the recent SHT was the best quote ever :)
Or maybe just the best I can remember, we're all getting older ...
"(Phone Calls). Nothing will ever be as simple as it
seems at first. This is why we have caller ID. I often wish we also had
I may have that carved on my tombstone... :D
@ December 13, 2012 9:29 AM in commercial dual fuel burnersNo, I don't think less of you because you asked first! The opposite in fact,
I'm in this industry 42 years and things I don't know surprise me every day...
imho this wall exists because everyone here knows a lot, no one here knows it all,
So Dan's wall is the closest thing to a "Hive Brain" we have...
@ December 12, 2012 11:25 AM in commercial dual fuel burnersYou probably locked out because the oil tank ran low, switched to gas, and now have smoked the gears in the oil pump from no lubrication.
The only good news is there is such a surfeit of natural gas you will probably not restart the oil side for decades... REMOVE the oil pump coupling and the noise will cease, although the pump will be trash and prevent you running oil until replaced... but it will be quiet trash.
Please note the air settings for Gas are usually subtly different than oil for efficient combustion, and if you have a soot build up in the chimney it should be cleaned well. The moisture in Nat Gas Products of Combustion & the sulfurs in most oil soot love nothing more than breeding sulfuric acid out of their inadvertent mixing.
@ December 7, 2012 3:26 PM in commercial dual fuel burnersYour best bet is to obtain an install/ops manual for the specific burner. Some common commercial burner names are Gordon Piatt, Beckett, Cleaver Brooks, Powerflame, and many others...
Fireeye is a combustion safety control, competitor to Honeywell...
Free (though not worthless) advice; I wouldn't micky about unless you have all the right meters and know what you're doing. Sub contract in someone who does and learn from them.
You have to really try to blow yourself up with a 150K btuh gas boiler, wheres a 3 million btuh gone wrong can get you (and the building) impressive height & distance in no time.
@ March 15, 2011 8:44 AM in "BusYness" survey - Mad DogThree months ago I would have said "doing ok"
Now I'll say the local H.V.A.C. economy; "switched from suck to blow..." *
I think the withdraw of the big rebate dollars simmered the green initiative way down... That and the silly calls about repairing 35 year old systems rather than replacing... that shows the mindset of the consumer isn't really recovered yet.
Add to that the booming price of fuels, and the ongoing disaster with a major trading partner's potential long range impact... I don't believe things will be any better than "spotty" the rest of 2011... At least I can't see anything that would affect a recovery near term.
@ August 26, 2005 3:24 PM in PVC pipe certified for use as venting material?That recall referrs to the short lived "Plex-Vent' and equivelant which was actually produced for installation as a venting product. The PVC vent system was simply selected as an approved vent by the folks that make the furnaces. Most PVC manufacturers don't suggest you use them. This is funny in a way. It would be similar to you saying "You may use Kmart Sheets as a Parachute' and Kmart saying "Wha? Eh?" Jammer
@ August 26, 2005 3:20 PM in Mouat vs. Boiler Feed Pump vs. Reservoir TankOne common mistake is sizing steam based on Low Pressure Standards (1 Square Foot Load requires 240 BTUH). A properly functioning Vapor/Vacuum Steam system can operate anywhere from 120 BTUH per Square Foot to 240. If you have insulated the building and the pipes well you may find the system will operate well with a smaller boiler PROVIDED the system functions well. The first sign of a misfunctioning vapor-vacuum steam system is actually LOSS of heat in some rooms, etc. Jammer Don
@ September 14, 2004 4:40 PM in Copper Pipe Connected to Galvanized?Copper is not a "preferrable" conduit for steam but it is approved. Steps; 1) Use a heavy copper pipe, "K" is far better than "M" 2) Be very careful of chemical treatments, high alkilinity will burn through copper faster then a fat girl at the bon-bon dish. 3) Braze/Silver Solder, do not use regular solder. Plumbers seperate a bad solder joint by heating and hammering; steam can easily "pipe hammer". Hope this helps Jammer Don