Joined on March 1, 2007
Last Post on December 1, 2013
@ September 17, 2013 11:45 PM in Rinnai parts neededDescription of the unit, it is certainly worth getting "available" parts to repair. The 1001 hasn't been produced for at least 15 yrs. As parts cycle through the recommendation would be to go with a newer modulating burner and fan unit, if your particular need cannot be fulfilled. If I was told by distribution that a part was nla, I'd check direct with the factory before replacing...depending on the general condition and history of the unit .Some parts are just NLA at this point.
@ September 10, 2013 12:02 PM in Rinnai parts neededNelson & Small. 207 775-5666 in Portland, ME. They were the biggest sellers of the 1001 back in the day. That product hasn't been manuf for 15+ yrs now. I just happen to be at Rinnai today, so I'll go see what I can find, if it exists.
The 132 Air inlet elbow is available. The 1004F 520X03 is the right part number. The FOT-40-3. We just looked it up and you can use a part number 1004F-530X01 and use the current vent kit for the 1004 the FOT-151. The 151 is the standard vent which will adapt from a 4 1/2" to 9 1/2" wall thickness
That's the best I can do!
@ September 8, 2013 11:07 PM in Air compressorsKinda sorta off topic, but thought I'd ask. I've got a substantial structural steel project here at the house and all my compressor filtration gear got lost in the move west. What do you use to filter and dry your compressed air? I don't want to pump a bunch of moisture into my plasma cutter. Thanks for the help
@ September 1, 2013 10:52 AM in Electric Heat???Would be a propane fired Rinnai Energysaver. Easy install and easy to take with her on the way out.
@ August 25, 2013 10:51 AM in centro therm pipingI think, is not melting the pipe. Your problem is that when you have a fire you will be pulling the smoke into the intake of the boiler, and it will not be happy. Somehow, you need to separate these two systems.
@ July 25, 2013 9:45 AM in I Often WonderThe best approach is the direct approach. Call Jeff Pope and ask him. He's a good guy and he is accessible!
@ July 18, 2013 12:07 AM in Rinnai boilerRinnai has a few different combis. The 75 & 110 use a plate HX for DHW. The 175c has a 6 gal indirect and the new Q85 & Q130 Premier's have a 24 gal indirect. What were you quoted?
@ July 9, 2013 7:06 PM in Indirect tempsWhat temps do you generally set your indirects? Do you add tempering valves on them?
@ July 4, 2013 4:03 PM in Buy wall furnace or use existing radiant heat?A Rinnai Energysaver, possibly 2 in each apt. I'd also look at Tjernlunds Airshare room to room fans. To get away with one unit positioning will be critical.
My general disclaimer, I represented Rinnai in my business for many years and consult with them still, so bias noted. I do heat my home with them however;)
@ June 25, 2013 9:12 PM in 6" Boiler Exhaust w/ 5" chimney liner. how bad is this?Bob, you are correct that the Appendix is "not a part of the code". That said, over the years I've talked to many people and been involved in many installs where the sizing in Appendix E worked perfectly. Many of those used 4" liners or pellet vent.
These tables were initially put together by Rich Krajewski and John Strasser at Brookhaven. I think they should have been adopted in '93 or '94 when first presented, and when I was on 31 I voted for them. Instead, 20 yrs later we still do not have lining standards for oil. The code says it must be the same size as the breaching. Not much science that I can see behind that rote statement. It's just the way it has always been.
@ June 13, 2013 9:29 AM in Bridging the gap Hydronics to ACAnd their local reps. Of the majors, Fujitsu, Mitsubishi and Daikin, Fujitsu is in N NJ and have regularly scheduled trainings. As well, the local reps, Wales Darby have a training facility and also provide training.
I think this an excellent move on your part. Become really good at these mini-split systems and specialize in them and it is, in my opinion, all up-side for you. Good luck!
@ June 9, 2013 7:22 PM in Ductless AC / minimum line set lengthsI will reference Fujitsu as that is what I know best. Laying the line set off in a serpentine manner behind the unit is best. Coils are absolutely a no no. Traps oil. Increasing the line set may be convenient for you but if you call engineering asking for a charge on an up sized line set they won't even talk to you. They will simply say install it per the specs. The mins are 9' for 9, 12 & 15 kbtu units. 18 and up is 16'. Confirm those numbers?
The first year the inverter units came out, we were told that you could get a resonance out of the evaporator if the line sets were to short. Some time later I was with one of the Japanese engineers and asked him what the noise was. He said it was the compressor telling you it is unhappy.
I'd suggest sticking to the specs for warranty support.
@ June 7, 2013 11:41 PM in Rinnai Water Heater LeakingYou can ask a "new" question. You say the pressure relief pipe is leaking. I have to say that on a tankless that is exceedingly rare, at least in my experience. What temp are you running, model #. With a leaking prv after 13 mos, I'd replace the valve while also checking gas pressure and water pressure. Do you have high water pressure? Temp and pressure being directly proportional adding temp to a high pressure system might trip the prv
@ June 4, 2013 8:00 PM in Tankless meets Jacuzzi: who wins?And determine the vol of water needed to fill your tub. A 199kbtu condensing tankless will make around 6gpm at a 70* rise (50-120). If you sit in a bathtub over 105* you are no longer bathing, you are parboiling. So at a satisfactory bathing temp you should be in the 6.5gpm to the tub. Will the tankless fill the tub? Yes! How long to fill the tub you have to test and report back.
@ May 26, 2013 1:38 PM in By special request.I begin to think I'm a pretty smart guy I find myself in a place like this!
@ May 19, 2013 9:52 AM in Floor mounted tub spoutI had a Victoria Albert tub, the Asia model, which is their clawfoot type. I used the block bases though. I also used their free standing "Faucet Tower". It worked out pretty well...if you have the space.
I'm in the middle of the kitchen and bath(s) re-model and found the same tub as a display close-out. Bought it again and this time will use a deck mounted faucet next to the tub at the center. I will have to kinda shape the wall protrusion, but it should be a better detail.
Those long faucet risers just give me the willies. Good luck with your install
@ May 19, 2013 9:43 AM in Order of Catagories on the WallI kinda had an order that I've been running the topics for a long time. The Wall, boom. AC, boom. Radiant boom. Gas, oil, dhw, boom boom boom. I could scroll the topics with my eyes closed after a lot of practice. Now I have to really pay attention again. Nice going!
@ May 18, 2013 10:26 AM in Kitchen sink ventI have an 8' window in the new kitchen. The kitchen sink is centered in that window and the window is at counter height. This would give me a 5' vent arm below the rim. How would you vent it?
@ May 15, 2013 9:41 AM in Plumbing Forum?of my recent posts, it would certainly be helpful to me;) I came up through the plumbing trade and was a contractor, but not having worked with the tools for a long time, why, things have changed. I would like to see it and will contribute as I can.
@ May 12, 2013 11:47 PM in What is the most effective heating system for Schools & Intermittent use buildings?I'd suggest that you look at Rinnai Energysavers in each room. Modulating gas valve, modulating blower, programmable stat built in, very durable. Each teacher controls the temp in his or her own space. Check it out.