Joined on March 1, 2007
Last Post on July 28, 2014
@ August 1, 2009 7:09 AM in Ductless heat Pumps that actually Heatlook at the Fujitsu multi's. You can mix and match the high wall units, the small cassettes or use the concealed ceiling air handlers. With the 2 and 3 ton condensing units you can get over 110 combinations of evaporators in the 9, 12 and 18kbtu range.
@ August 1, 2009 7:05 AM in Mini-splitsto do business as you please, of course. A/C work is typically ducted, with the exception of the mini-splits. Having a sub for this is fine. However, what happens when compressor bearing equipment becomes a primary hydronic option. You can continue to invite the sub into your business or you can become certified/licensed in this catagory and control your business. Who will get the call for service on that equipment. This change in the market isn't going to happen overnight, but it is worth thinking about. It is going to happen. What I tell kids is that life is like a funnel. The goal is to stay up in the top of the funnel where the options and opportunity is greatest for as long as you can. Education, training and knowledge is what keeps you up there. A lack of skills moves you further down the funnel. Me, I'm getting near the tight spot just from a time standpoint. Don't join me! Stay up top!
@ July 31, 2009 10:35 PM in Mini-splitsI've been thinking about posting this for a while and with the other current mini-split thread on the topic, I've decided to put this out there. If you are in the trades, specifically the heating trade and not doing A/C work then you are dangerously exposed, in my opinion. I have had a look at some of the technology beyond the tremendous equipment we are selling today. In the next couple years you are going to see waves of hydronic heat pumps that will do low temp heating like radiant and hydro air. I am not talking water source. You will see air to water HP's producing the cop's of todays water source units. This equipment can be a game changer. If you aren't refrigerant certified you need to get back to school TODAY to become certified. Get ahead of this technology! Don't play catch-up!
@ July 31, 2009 10:17 PM in Ductless heat Pumps that actually HeatYour loyalty to your preferred brand is laudable, albeit a bit premature in this catagory of product. The changes all the manufacturers in this catagory are making are incredibly swift and it is a pleasure to watch such excellent technological advances. I represent Fujitsu and am thoroughly impressed with it. Perhaps you should try another brand. I think you would find something in it that you would like. Technically, I'll put a Fujitsu against a Daikin any day. Care to compare? Please, go to Fujitsugeneral.com and compare specs. As you look forward, Fujitsu, Daikin, Mitsu...they are all doing incredible things. I live in New England. Prior to the introduction of the R410A inverter units if you bought a heat pump in this market I would have said, "What are you nuts?" Today,with the Inverters, if you don't buy the heat pump I will say, "What are you nuts?" I no longer sell them for cooling. I tell the contractor to sell it as heat and we will give the customer the cooling. I have a customer who lives in Bangor, ME and called me last Jan to tell me it was -5F at his house and his heat pump was blowing 103F air. I told him I didn't think it was supposed to do that, but we decided to take it;) A friend of mine in MA put in a dual 12 unit in his downstairs and a quad 9 in the upstairs bedrooms. I told him to use them for heat too. He called me in early June and told me he "had reduced his oil consumption by 43.6% and next season "I'm going to use them all the time" I'm really looking forward to seeing how well he can do now that he knows they really work. One other thing about Daikin. I put in my first minisplit in 1978. My customer heard about it and told me about it. We found a Daikin unit and installed it. I couldn't believe how cool this thing was. However, Daikin, the company couldn't figure out how to do business in the States and one night all the Japanese got on an airplane and without announcement...flew back to Japan. Their customers, myself included, were quite surprised when they called the next day and no one was there. BTW, they did this twice!! Now that they own McQuay I guess they will stick around, but who knows, the third time is the charm!
@ July 31, 2009 6:28 AM in Alberta Oil Sandsthe first edition of the "tar sands" back in '77. It was another boom town for me back then. Beaumont (refinery), Pasco (nuke), Edmonton (tar sand), Craig (tar sand) and others. The Craig project was the very definition of a boom town. It shut down one day and you could not believe the number of people trying to get out of NW CO. It took a long time, as the hwy hadn't opened up yet. I have a lot of good stories from those days, but somehow, they become less funny as time goes by;)
@ July 28, 2009 8:24 AM in Grundfos HandbookI recently received a rally nice "Grundfos Handbook". You all would like it. Try www.grundfos.us/handbook and see if you can sign up for it. It is a 98 pg, 4x6 piece with a ton of good info.
@ July 27, 2009 6:51 AM in UA Instructors?I went back when they were at Perdue. Been out for a long time now. Have a good time!
@ July 23, 2009 8:08 AM in biggest loser - revisitedI have a spin bike and I race with them. The mountain stages have about killed me. Can't wait for the time trial. Damn it's today and I'm traveling. I be doing well in the overall if it wasn't for this work thing!
@ July 3, 2009 1:41 PM in mass. code requirements for oil vents in masonry chimneyDoes a masonry chimney serving an oil fired appliance require a SS liner. 31 does not call for it but does MA code.
@ July 2, 2009 8:06 AM in High efficiency oil boilersWhen I used to clean the Yukon Ultima condensing furnaces some 20 yrs ago, I would securely tape up all the places that could leak and take the CVT drain line and use it as a site glass and fill the condensing coil and secondary with water. Once filled I'd drain it into a 5 gallon pail and after two fills that thing was as clean as a whistle. I'd then let the water evaporate off and deal with the "residue". Prior to developing this method...it was a freakin' nighmare to clean.
@ June 26, 2009 9:54 AM in Tankless and WhirlpoolsThere are modifiers. I've just found it good practice to start with the lowest point of providing the hw required, or at least that will do the job and once that is rejected you can build the system/sale from there. That way there is ownership and acknowledgment (make sure the owner knows too) of the systems requirements and features that need to be fed, like the waterfall faucet.
@ June 25, 2009 6:11 AM in Tankless and Whirlpools"speed costs money, how fast do you want to go. I figure these jobs with one or two and present the $ to them and explain the "cost vs time". For instance, a Rinnai (which I represent) R75LSi will make +5gpm at tub temp, so it will take 12-13 minutes to fill the tub. For somewhere in the range of double the cost I can save you six minutes. When explained that way, it is amazing how many people find something to do for six minutes.
@ June 21, 2009 12:57 PM in booster on tanklessI represent Rinnai so note the bias. I have done many tankless with storage. While the preference is to do straight tankless sometimes the characteristics of the demand or lay-out of the floorplan preclude that possibility. I do prefer higher burner capacity to more gallons of storage. In analyzing your pumping demands the GPM X Delta T X 500 = BTU is useful. For a single tankless unit I find a 008 or at most a 009 to be sufficient. Rinnai likes to size for the "max performance" which is the higher head pump. That works fine. Personally, I kinda prefer to back off on that a bit. A 008 will pump a Rinnai at about 4.5-5gpm unless you have a million 90's in there. The 009 closer to 6. Plug some numbers into the formula and see how it works out for you. Your choice on the pump! Systems do work very well with the bigger pumps. It causes no harm to the equipment. In piping the tank (Aquabooster, for example)I have my own thoughts. Feed your CWS to the bottom of the tank, of course. Pump to the tankless off on the upper of the two low tank penetrations on an Aquabooster. Make sure you return to the top of the tank. Most Aquabooster piping diagrams were done when they were feeding these tanks off a boiler which gave a lower delta t and gradually raised the tank temp. Tankless on the other hand are set to only allow set point temp out of them and will regulate flow to do soozZLHPuh. Therefore every gallon exiting the tankless is ready to go to the building. You can pipe it either into the relief valve opening or the HWS opening before the temp valve. This piping arrangement gives a nice smooth operation of the pump and the tankless units. Returning the tankless outlet water to the lower portion of the tank can influence the A-stat and give varying supply temps to the tankless units which can make them ramp up and down. Give a 20F delta T between the tankless and the a-stat. A local plumber did a restaurant here in town a bit ago with two Rinnai R75LSI's and an 80 gallon tank. He ran them at 160/140. He said it took him less than 12 minutes from a cold start to pick up the tank to 140.
@ June 13, 2009 12:34 PM in propane heaterswww.rinnai.us Rinnai Energysavers are the best in the catagory. What is the lay-out? How many sq ft. Also look at the Airshare at www.tjernlund.com By way of disclosure, I represent both of these products.
@ May 26, 2009 6:16 PM in Oceanfront Problem In NCDon, I lived in the Napa Valley for several years, so when you say "wine cellar", are you talking Joe Phelps wine cellar or a little room. Exactly what conditions are you looking to maintain and for how much space? You don't get a high side port because the metering device is in the condensing unit so while they call them liquid and suction you are really looking at two gas lines. When you look at these things they are a true variable speed unit and they will continue to monitor temperatures about 500 times a second. As the actual t-stat is the thermistor mounted on the evaporator it is, shall we say, ever vigilant. As well, they do their best dehu in those low fan speed cool coil conditions.
@ May 25, 2009 9:49 PM in Oceanfront Problem In NCYou will find that all the primary mini-split manuf (Fujitsu, Mitsubishi, Sanyo and Daikin) offer true variable speed equipment, which includes, variable speed compressors, condenser fans and indoor evaporator fans
@ May 24, 2009 8:54 AM in Oceanfront Problem In NCyou have to look and ask if it is worth trying to resurrect a poor system, specifically the ductwork. The two speed and variable speed suggestions are correct, but you are still trying to correct a distribution sytem and can do so only where accessible, which means an incomplete repair. Do you want to continue down that track? What guarantee can be given that the dollars are going to be well spent and the system actually work and be an asset to the house. I would suggest that you look at mini-split heat pumps. I represent Fujitsu, (www.fujitsugeneral.com) so my bias is acknowledged, but they are the most efficient units out there, up to 26 SEER and 12 HSPF. You can use an assortment of interior evaporators, all of which are variable speed, very, very quiet and excellent dehumidifiers as well. You will also have "net to the space" efficiency as you have only .5-1% loss in the line set, as opposed to your current duct system. I am sorry to hear of your problems and shudder at what this must have cost you, in both $ and heartache, but at some point you have to say enough money spent on a failed system and look at better alternatives. As you have started this thread, please let us know how things work out for you as you go forward. Good luck!
@ May 3, 2009 12:23 PM in Is there a need for an expansion tank with a tankless heater?for "phantom operation" of a Rinnai. With no draw on the system the unit would start and stop. Very brief, but it would spin up to operation and shut down immediately. It turned out that there was no building back-flow prevention and upon heavy draws on the town main running down the street it would pull a back pressure on the buildings system and when the heavy draw stopped, re-pressurize the buildings system and the "phantom flow" would occur. Also, so not use a t&p on a tankless. Pressure only. I've seen T&P's leak like crazy. Totally dependent upon the piping arrangement and the systems "personality" but it happens regularly.
@ May 3, 2009 9:18 AM in indirect - glass vs stainlessare not like buying a pyrex coffee pot. They are not all glass, due to the production method. Once you make the tank and run the glass gun up into it and then run the tank through the industial furnace you get a process called "burn back". Which basically is the flue gases racing through the tank openings at a very high velocity, burning the glass back from the tank penetrations. Once your anode rod is gone...and how would you know, the water attacks the next tastiest thing, which is the tank itself. Check and maintain/replace the anode rod. If you do it you will be in an incedibly low, probably hundreths of 1% who do, you should see what you are dealing with. As well, I think any decision on a long term spec should start with a thorough water analysis. If you are on city water the information is readily available. If it is a well, you should get one done yourself.
@ April 30, 2009 7:12 AM in Is there a need for an expansion tank with a tankless heater?Feel free to correct my numbers, but if I recall correctly, from 32-212F water will grow in vol. by about 1/23 or a bit under 4%. Given that the tap is always open when the unit is firing and the burner shuts off immediately upon the stoppage of flow,if anything, you will actually see a contraction of vol. as the water cools. As the overwhelming majority of dhw systems suffer from a lack of pipe insulation this will happen in very short order. Having said that, in my experience, and I only get invited to the jobs with problems, every system has a personality. Over the years I have had, I think 3-4 jobs where an exp tank solved a problem. That is out of a total of a few tens of thousnads of units, so I'll say you don't need one...until you do;)
@ March 11, 2009 9:26 PM in Instructions on operating a japanese toiletthat was to wierd even for me. When the toilet starts saluting the plumber you can start getting assorted complexes. I figured none of them would be good. On the other hand, since I shave my head, it will be nice to get a warm wash and blow dry on the other end!