Joined on March 1, 2007
Last Post on December 1, 2013
@ February 29, 2008 5:39 PM in Blue Flame Buderus Install (Ray L)I've not seen the boiler up close but when anyone tries to compare the blue ray technology to todays technology I simply look beck to the auto industry. Until you had the proper electronics to control it you could not have really good fuel injection. With the proper electronics precision is possible. I have a couple old cars, one with a weber carb and one with mechanical fuel injection. Fiddle with those for a while and you get an appreciaton for EFI. That Blue Ray was almost 30 yrs ago. The technology has to have advanced. Again, nice work!
@ February 29, 2008 5:22 PM in Truck caught firewith a contractor a couple months ago and he ran out to his van to "burn out" with his propane torch a gas burner which had some spider webs up in them. He placed the torch back into the truck, brought the burner back in, we reassembled the unit, fired it up, thanked the homeowner and walked out to his truck. Maybe 30 mins, because I'm a gas bag. I was just getting into my car when he opended the side door on his van. A cloud of black soot/smoke came billowing out. No flames. Turns out that his off, but hot torch tip came into contact with a black plastic 5 gal bucket and kinda smoldered and turned into fine, fine soot. The whole bucket was gone. I swear I have never seen such a mess. Every surface in the truck and its contents were covered in a couple MM of soot. It was perfectly uniform in its dispersion. The seats, windshield, headliner, stock, racks, lunch, everything! I think if it had been my truck I would have thrown a match into it and hoped it caught. Boy, I felt bad for him. How do you clean something like that out?
@ February 29, 2008 5:06 PM in ground source heat pump heat exchanger plugging with sediment.correct? If so either the system has trapped a mass of particulate which is not carrying through on to your flush point, but is perfectly happy to go to your HX in suspension. Put a prefilter in front of the HX and see what happens. Plate HX are kind of a pain to clean in my experience. Otherwise, If the system is clean and there is no debris in the lines, you have to be "galling or eroding" some material in the piping which is moving to the HX. What is the material?
@ February 28, 2008 6:16 AM in Rinnai all Furnace recallThis has been all over the press in New England. As well, any consumers registered units are being contacted. You have to remember that only about +/-10% of purchases are registered with all manuf. Rinnai has polled distributors for information on who the contractors purchasing goods are. Contractors are being contacted where the info is available and trying to contact the homeowners that way also. Do you all keep model and serial numbers on purchased and installed equipment? Do you register warranties for your customers?
@ February 23, 2008 6:36 AM in Rinnai all Furnace recallto remove the front cover of all direct vent wall furnace Energysaver models 431 & 556 (FA-III and WTA models & colors)units installed from 2000 on (Approx 52,000). Remove the Burner Cover Plate and discard it and its gasket. The instructions are detailed and the affected area is fully exposed. The kit provided by Rinnai includes a new burner cover plate, gasket (which is the item in question), new sparker, sparker retainer, sparker cover boot, new screws and a couple other associated parts. It is 30-40 min work. Rinnai is paying the labor and providing the kit. Rinnai is paying labor for this. If an affected unit shows deterioration of the heat exchanger...This could happen if the gasket has failed, which could allow the flame to "focus" on that area and deform or crack the top left corner area of the cut-out, which the new cover plate attaches to. I expect that a very, very small percentage of units will require this. Certainly check it out carefully. Rinnai Energysaver Models 551, 1001, 201, 263, 1004 are not affected. No Rinnai water heaters are affected. One helpful hint on the install which I will offer. The gas line is attached to a cast plate and is secured to the burner area. This piece holds the four orifices and has a "D" shaped gasket which is also provided in the kit. It is not necessary to remove this orifice holding piece from the gas line. What I do is remove the small limit which sits in front of the gas line secured with one screw to the lower chassis. Remove the two screws holding the cast part and rotate it and the gas line out of the way. Do the other work and when you reassemble, whether you have done this my way or dismounted the part, you have to take your time and make sure the locator pin next to the orifices drops into place. This can be a little "fiddly", but it just has to be lined up properly and it will drop right in. If you do remove the orifice holder from the gas line be aware that there is an O-ring on the gas line. The O-ring will likely stay in place, but...I know the first time I took one apart the O-ring dropped out and at that time I didn't know there was an o-ring, so I had a heck of a time until one of the guys slapped me along side the head and showed me where the O-ring had fallen. Other than that, this is simple. It is, in fact, so simple that we don't want the homeowner doing it! Please check the air filter for cleanliness and if it is dirty, tell the owner, for their fuel economy and comfort the importance of cleaning this filter. A detailed, exploded parts drawing is at www.ductlessheating.com. Select the model 431 or 556 and click on the blue window for the parts breakdown. Post questons and I'll try to help as I can.
@ February 15, 2008 6:45 PM in Powervent removal possiblities?You are having combustion air issues which will continue if you put a chimney in, unless you provide adequate combustion air to the furnace. You should not have soot inside with a PV. Your PV has an adjustable post purge timer to continue operating after the burner shuts off to ensure flue gases are totally expelled to the outside of the home. Power venters require maintenance. 100% of the oil and air mixture going thru the burner goes thru the power venter. It is a hostile environment and the pv must be cleaned when the furnace is cleaned. Annual maintenance is good for your fuel bill. The wheel must be cleaned if it gets dirty. Lack of combusiton air guarantees that the heating appliance, and the power venter will soot up. Once the blower wheel is sooted up it will, if not cleaned get out of round, make noise and the air/fuel mixture will deteriorate and unfortuantely, you will feel, justifiably, as you now do.
@ February 15, 2008 6:28 PM in cross use of water heatertype of system design is...is cheaper, not better, IMHO. Value engineering is good. Cheap engineering isn't...again, IMHO
@ February 11, 2008 5:51 PM in Ice on chimney = need new boiler?Is this oil or gas fired? Is the chimney an end wall chimney? How tall is it? What construction is the chimney and the chimney liner? In fact, is it lined at all? What size is the liner? How much rise from the boilers breeching to the point where it connects to the chimney? How much rise and run on that vent connector? What size is that vent connector? What is the input rating on the boiler? Have you had these type isses in the past? Has anything else changed to affect draft issues with the flue? Is the chimney clear all the way to the top? Has an internal portion of it collapsed? I ask all these questions to get an idea as to whether or not you need a new chimney liner. If your boiler is not leaking then you are more than likely getting condensation of the flue gases which are freezing at the top of the flue. And, yes, you can get a lot of moisture. Approx 1 gal of water vapor per gal of oil or therm of nat. gas burned if the flue gases are cooled all the way to ambient temp. Keep in mind also that while you may not have had this type of icing before that vent degradation typically happens over a long period of time. Do you have a CO detector in the house? If it is a gas apppliance and there are venting problems, I'd strongly recommend that you get one while you figure things out. I'd get one anyway.
@ February 7, 2008 6:53 AM in power venteruse a power venter I would recommend that you use the SS2 from Tjernlund. Just because you think you will use this infrequently is no reason to "short" design or system components. At some point you may choose to sell the house and it will operate better, more economically and require less maintanence if done properly at the start. One of the biggest problems with PV's is that they are frequently starved for combustion air, which leads to sooting. You could very well find the same situation with your wood burner.
@ January 29, 2008 11:59 AM in The greatest moment of my lifeare ahead of you. You can't imagine the changes that are coming. Of course, you will be to tired to notice but it will sink in. Dave is right, btw! Good for you all! Congrats!!
@ January 24, 2008 9:39 AM in Pro's & Con's of tankless water heatersYou can access installation, service/troubleshooting, parts, manuals etc in the "literature" section. On Rinnaisolutions, you are correct there is a great deal of info to absorb. Check out the calculators in the upper heading. Also when in the troubleshooting heading click on the blue words and it will take you to the things you need to check. When you see the four blue windows click on any one of them and it will give you an exploded diagram of the unit. click on the part and it will giveyou the part number, and if it is an electrical component it will give you troubleshooting information
@ January 24, 2008 7:55 AM in Pro's & Con's of tankless water heatersI've found the on-demand water heater to be ideal for laundry applications. BTW, I represent Rinnai, just so you know. As well, I'm a licensed plumber. For reference go to www.rinnaisolutions.com, register and go to the tools section for sizing info. A consumer I would send to www.foreverhotwater.com. The coin op laundry has a number of machines typically of varying poundage. Calculate the number of machines to cover the load and where they are to be positioned. As we all know, the closer to the point of use the better. One of the advantages of these systems vs tanks is the load factor in laundromats. I always ask the owner how often they are running at capacity. This is important. The answer typically is Sat/Sun mornings. With that info I will ask why would you want to store hot water for 168hrs/wk when you are at demand capacity for +/-10 hrs per week. One of the great advantages of the on-demand is that when only one washer is running, you fire only the gas to satisfy that load. As load increases/decreases, the units modulate up/down to satisfy that load and no more. When no one is running a machine you have no gas consumption. That seems pretty efficient to me. Again, look at the use pattern. I sized a system that called for 8 units. That would have been two banks of 4. In discussion with the contractor and the owner I recommended two banks of 3. With the agreement that the units would be installed to accomodate the 7th and 8th units should we have a capacity issue. So, room was left for those units, the piping was designed for simple addition of the additional equipment and the gas line was sized to accomodate them. They have not been necessary in that particular installation, but I was able to "value-engineer" a system to meet the demand satisfactorily. The MSA control package for multiple units, rotates the firing sequence unifies the operation of multiple units and balances the flow within a tenth of a gal. to each unit. Pretty cool! Also, keep in mind, that if on the rare Sat morning everyone looks up and down the line and they all drop their quarters at the same time that the Rinnai system will respond. They are designed to produce only the correct temp water and will activate the flow control to reduce flow to guarantee temp. I would invite you to spend a Sat morning or 10 and tell me how often all the machines draw at the same time. I tell the owner that even in that circumstance, it simply slows down the fill rate for that short period. One of the things most laundromat owners really appreciate is the direct venting (no combustion air issues) and room savings these can create. Sq footage in these places is very dear and high wall space is typically available but floor space and storage space is at a premium. I had one laundromat that created a storage area and a small office area when they went to the Rinnai system. That man loved the system and his new found sq ft. What is necessary for these to work well? In my opinion, that is a clear thinking, open minded, professional mechanic who knows that a pipe wrench is not a hammer (although I frequently used one as such;) and doesn't leap off of tall buildings in a single bound. Having taken my lumps in the mech contracting business I will say that in any new equipment/system, "slow and steady" wins the race. Read, study and then try it out. If we can help...give us a shout.
@ January 5, 2008 6:40 AM in bluetoothI have the Jawbone model from Jabre and it is the best ear piece I've used, and I think I've tried them all. Expensive, but it works very, very well. I bought mine at Bestbuy but saw them for sale at the Apple store this week. I'm a fan of this law. I know that without the earpiece, I consider myself to be a total menace on the highway. With it, I can keep my head up and see my mirrors and don't feel like I'm a threat to everyone out there.
@ January 4, 2008 2:08 PM in Power ventergo to www.tjernlund.com/distributor stocked products and you will see it at the bottom rt of the page
@ January 3, 2008 5:10 PM in Power venterI represent Tjernlumd, (www.tjernlund.com) but they make an excellent unit, called the Enforcer, which will interlock with the burner so it operates only when there is a call for heat. As well, it will blend indoor and outdoor air to soften the affect of the very cold outside air.
@ January 2, 2008 6:02 PM in Power venterI agree that the flue gases are being drawn from the barometric by the furnace blower. Check to see if your furnace is approved to vent without a barometric. If you can eliminate the barometric you eliminate the main problem. A tjernlund SSII would work there. I would also ask the furnace manufacturer how they feel about running the furnace without RA ductwork. Your system static pressures are totally out of wack. They will most likely recommend adding ductwork. You may be able to get away with just restricting some of the air flow of the return side. None of the above eliminates the need to add combustion air.
@ December 7, 2007 6:56 AM in My daughter's mad at meKids get to the point where they cannot give you the one thing you wish you could have most from them...Their time! I love a good trade/training show as much as the next, but if I had my druthers, I damned sure wouldn't leave a family vaca for it. My girls are grown and gone and I spend all my vacation time trying to get out to see them. She'll be gone soon too!
@ November 26, 2007 5:29 PM in Insulated chimney linersIF it will fit into your chimney. I repeat,,,IF... Depending upon the height of the chimney, length of vent connector, firing rate and let us not forget your combustion air situation is to use L-vent of a suitable diameter. Pellet vent is L-vent rated for oil but comes only in 3 and 4". Metalbestos and Dura-Vent each make an L-vent product in 6,7 (Dura-vent only), and 8" diameters. These are stainless lined galvalum outer for the PV and black painted for the 6,7,8. Check with your oil company, the appliance manuf, your liner installer and go with the smallest size that will do the job. I'd refer you to Appendix E in NFPA31. It is not a part of the code, I am required to say, but the sweeps I've talked to who have used it say it is spot on.
@ November 19, 2007 6:18 AM in Oil or Propane for a really small housecase is to go with Propane and install either one Rinnai 1004 or two 556WTA's (www.ductlessheating.com). If you have problems moving air to any room check the Tjernlund Air Share. When buying LP get as large a tank as you can afford and bury it. Get a 500 or 1000 gal and you will eliminate the mid-season buying blues, especially for a house that size. The Rinnia's are a simple install and will heat your home efficiently and reliably.
@ November 13, 2007 9:39 PM in rinnai 431 wtaWhat are the dimensions of the space the heater is in. The 431 will fire from 8,200-16,700 btu and modulate both the burner and blower. I have seen this type situation before when the air hits an obstruction (wall/furniture) and rolls back to the unit cycling the unit off. Essentially the air cannot get into the room or the space it needs to heat. Try adjusting the directional louvers to direct the air into the space. You can push them to one side or the other with a screwdriver blade.
@ July 18, 2007 8:50 PM in Remote sensors for Visionproa Braeburn 5300. It can be configured to average the stat and remote or to have just the remote be the sensing element. As an introductory promo, they are offering either the remote sensor or a thermostat guard free with every purchase.