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Jack

Jack

Joined on March 1, 2007

Last Post on July 22, 2014

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It was interesting to watch

@ March 2, 2009 6:27 AM in Paul Harvey...another American Broadcasting Treasure has passed

the trajectory of Paul Harvey's Rinnai relationship. I had several people call me and ask where they could get a Rinnai. As I began to describe the product they would simply say, "You don't have to tell me about it. If Paul Harvey says that is what I need then that is good enough." Consider for a moment what that means. It is such a pleasure to watch a man in the spotlight for so many years finish his life and career with such a reputation for honesty and integrity. The comment about "lunch with Paul" is spot on. I heard him in the hogger (lunch trailer) in the 60's when I started in the business and since then. In recent years, I didn't particularly seek him out on the dial, but when I ran across him on the air I never turned him off. Happy Trials, Paul! I'll miss you!

First of all

@ February 25, 2009 12:52 PM in Rinnai Tankless Waterheaters

check the installation manual for the limits of different chemicals in the water. Best done before installation with a water test. Get a water test so you know what you are dealing with. If you are getting an "LC" (lime control) error code, then you need to flush the hx. This is a pretty simple process if piped according to the instructions. White vinegar is typically recommended. Make sure when you flush that you also clean the immersion sensor at the top right of the hx. If it is not cleaned it will be coated and can still give an LC code after flushing. It is the sensor held by the two small phillips head screws. When you pull the sensor, be aware that there is a very small o-ring on the sensor which if lost can alter your happiness quotient. I am very sure about that! That o-ring will sometimes stay on the snesor when pulled or sometimes stay in the well. If it stays in the well, pull it and install it on the sensor for reassembly. If you try to install the sensor with the o-ring in the well you can possibly refer to the alter happiness thing above. Do not back flush, as in reverse flow as it will screw up the turbine. If you have bad water you can wither put this on a schedule to clean or treat the water.

Cool, Paul

@ February 23, 2009 12:41 PM in what do you drive?

Did you ever run at The Glen? The thing about '02's is that BMW is still producing all the parts and they, as you know, are a great car. The tii's are starting to get up there $wise, but a straight can still be had for short money. My turbo is a pretty special car. In fact, to special for me. I'm going to turn it. I want something I can drive and not have to worry about. The turbo I have to worry about. Anyone have Jay Leno's number?

Secrets and Shotguns

@ February 22, 2009 10:55 AM in what's in your closet

;)

Cars! It's all madness you know!

@ February 22, 2009 10:53 AM in what do you drive?

Let's see, for work, 05 Yukon XL & 06 Subaru Outback Others: 1975 BMW 2002 Turbo, 1972 BMW 2002, and '04 Mini Cooper S In this scenario, a two car garage is wholly deficient

The reason

@ February 20, 2009 11:04 AM in hot water recirc

they use the higher head pumps is to pump the water at high velocity. Metlund has a drawing of the actual flow characteristics in the piping of the hot/cold relationship. It's pretty neat. It shows that at 1gpm you end up with a skim coat of hot water going over the cold remaining in the pipe. At 1-3gpm yo end up with what looks like a long spear point of h/c and in the 5gpm range you basicall have "plug" flow where the hot totally displaces the cold. That takes a higher head pump. Given they have the temp sensor for shut-off purposes, the high head pump is best. If you are recircing to an on-demand make sure you run your return line in 3/4" so you can get the higher flows.

Running wild

@ February 19, 2009 2:50 PM in hot water recirc

recirc is not really a solution to anyones issues and we are certainly in agreement with that. The Metlund's electronics are designed to only recognise the call for operation every 8 minutes, so it will prevent the short-cycling to which you refer. As well, because it has the thermistor on the hot side of the pump, when it sees an 8F delta t it will shut off because it knows that 2' behind that there is hot water. I think it is a pretty slick system One of the biggest issues for us here in MA is that with the Boston Harbor and Charles River clean-ups, worthwhile projects, but we are paying for them, we have the highest water rates in the US. I was reading a report (I think from Lawrence Livermore labs that said that every 3 gallons of water down the drain is equivalent to approx 1kw of energy/cost for delivery and treatment. I think we will be seeing more attention placed upon recirc. I'm looking forward to it and the further discussion. In my own home, I re-modelled two fo the three bathrooms last year and didn't install the recirc. I'm now doing the master bath and will install it there. Without it, in the morning, I have a 45second wait for hot water with the shower going. I'll report back what the time difference is when I get the Mstr Bath done...ahem, whenever that is;/

Respectfully, must disagree MArk

@ February 18, 2009 10:58 PM in hot water recirc

Time and/or temperature controlled recircs are serious energy wasters. Why would I want my aquastat running my recirc pump while I am at work or in bed? The best of the recirc systems is the demand system, imho. Go to www.gothotwater.com and look over the Metlund system for comparison purposes.

For climate control

@ February 16, 2009 9:37 PM in Clamp on Multimeters

I'd look at UEI or Fluke. Fluke gets a lot of support here but UEI does a great job for climate control. Whatever you buy make sure it has a Microamp range for your ignition checks. The microamp symbol is a long nosed U. I used to have a heck of a time with Autoranging meters. I was (or am) a tad dim with meters at times and with an autoranging meter and a modulating piece of equipment that meter would scan and scan and never settle down. I figured it out but I still prefer the manual adjustment of the UEI 383. Can't beat them for the money, imho.

I'm planning

@ February 13, 2009 6:32 AM in Solar roofing material

on a solar system for the house. DHW for sure and looking into a PV system also. While I have instaled many solar system and worked on more roofs, I would not install my system without first doing a re-roof. Mine is a pretty much standard low pitch colonial roof in New England, which I would "over-collector" as necessary to compensate for the pitch. The house is a a two story with a walk out basement, so effectively three stories. This south pitch cannot be seen from the ground as the property slopes also so appearanace of the material is not a consideration. My question is, What type of roofing material do you like to work on. Cost is certainly a factor, but durability (you do have to clean panels) and ease of drainage are important also.

You can contact me

@ February 9, 2009 6:38 AM in Small 4 apartment building,best way to control heat bill

on my phone at 617 834-8751. Be happy to help!

Would your building owner

@ February 7, 2009 4:55 PM in Small 4 apartment building,best way to control heat bill

like to sub-meter and have the tenants who "like it hot" pay their own fuel bills? If so, we have done a few tens of thousand apt conversion using Rinnai DV modulating gas valve and blower wall furnaces. They work very well. I represent them and have sold about 125,000 of them in New England. They are excellent and ideal for this application.

Check Appendix E in 31

@ February 7, 2009 4:39 PM in chimney liner and insulation - oil boiler

for some sizing guidelines. Sweeps with whom I've spoken find the sizings to be spot on. Is this an interior or exterior chimney. It makes a significant difference in performance. Answer those questions all ready asked and consider an insulated vent coneector. I've posted this before, but when John Strasser and Rich Krajewski did their vent modeling they said the thing that had the greatest impact on performance was an insulated chimney liner. Depending upon the size, you can get DS from Selkirk or DVL from Duravent.

www.tjernlund.com

@ February 3, 2009 6:03 AM in Combustion Air Intake Efficiency

You will find equipment that is either single stage or variable speed for combustion air.

Just saw at ASHRAE

@ January 29, 2009 6:58 AM in best ductless mini split with heat

the new (March availability) 12 RLS unit from Fujitsu. 26seer/HSPF 12. Cooling capacity 3,800-14,500 Heating capacity 3,100-24,000 btu I represent them, so my bias is acknowledged, but it is an excellent line.

Saw the originals

@ January 29, 2009 6:48 AM in Another Lynyrd Skynyrd Tragedy

in Tempe in 74. Jas Cotton Blues Band, MArshall Tucker, LS, Boz Scaggs, Steve Miller, and Elton John came up out of the crowd to play. MT and LS just blew the place away. Ronnie Van Sant had a huge shiner and a bandage on his head, but it didn't seem to affect him, but then again, ho would you have known. There were some bizarre stories surrounding that event, but I can't talk about them in polite company;/

Tim Dwyer

@ January 19, 2009 1:53 PM in Tjernland Power Venters

Tim is at 800 255-4208 X 132.

I have done many of these,

@ January 16, 2009 7:00 AM in Instantaneous Water Heater

but with Rinnai's, as I represent them. You still need the booster at the dishwasher. That way you can run the water heater at 140 and supply the rest of the kitchen with hot water temps. The booster will then peak the temp the last 40 degrees. Everyone likes to try to eliminate the booster, but with a good pre-heat you can minimize the size and cost of operation of the booster. The reason yu need the booster is that if the water heater is 10' away from the dw, if the unit produces 180f water, by the time it gets to the dw it will no longer be 180...Period! The rinse cycle is where the "rubber meets the road" with on-demand. Never call it instantaneous, it isn't. Satisfactory rinse operation requires water at both the correct temperature, but also the correct pressure. You will find that if the unit is making hot water for the kitchen faucets and the rinse cycle calls, the unit will respond without issue. If however the unit is in stand-by mode and the rinse cycle calls the unit will see high flow instantaneously, recognize that water is getting thruough at the wrong temp, slow the flow down de-pressurinzing the rinse cycle, it gets control of the flow immediately, re-opens the flow valve and by the time the water heater is happy the rinse cycle is almost done. Ka-boom! I have had very satisfactory results, but I had a pretty rough apprenticeship in these applications. Rinnai engineering likes to be involved in these designs. How many one/two/three bay sinks, spray systems, lavs, dishwasher make and model (imperative that you understand the flow characteristics). In other words, what is your total load.

JIm, what is plugging the screen?

@ January 12, 2009 7:08 PM in rinnai call backs

If the screen gets plugged it limits flow to the unit and stresses the flow control valve which over time in this situation will cause it to moan and groan prior to failure. That component with good clean flow is very reliable and operates quietly. I'd suggest replacing the flow control valve and see if it quiets it down. Are you in the New England area? If so, I'm your rep. I'd be happy to help. Give me a call if you'd like 617 834-8751.

Bob pretty much has it....

@ January 9, 2009 6:42 AM in Chimney size

but a couple other things to consider. Basic physics, when a gas expands, it cools. Do not oversize. A masonry chimney follows the old adobe principal. Masonry never saw a btu it wasn't willing to absorb, which exacerbates the first point. Essentially, in todays world, for todays equipment, a masonry chimney is an excellent architectural device but a very, very poor mechanical device. Personally, I would never pay to build a masonry chimney.

Variable speed

@ December 30, 2008 3:59 PM in New furnace advice

Assuming the air can move the through the ductwork at the proper static pressure, the variable speed unit will deliver better comfort and less temp swing in the home. When you say variable speed, are you talking a "manually adjustable" speed or an "automatically modulating" fan? If it is going in my house it will have a modulating gas valve with a modulating fan. That is the best comfort and best long term economy. Has an actual inspection of the underground duct been done to confirm its integrity. There are companies that can run a scope through the duct to determine its condition. I'd make certain that everything is ok before I put nickel one into the system. Now that you are adding the ductwork, and the system will be able to operate at a proper static you can now put on a high quality filter and humidifier as well. Good luck and Happy New Year!

Another angle

@ December 19, 2008 6:20 AM in Condensing vs. Traditional

to this. You could install a Rinnai Energysaver Direct Vent wall furnace in each apt, 83% AFUE, modualating gas valve and blower. Cool to the touch. Nice! Sub meter the load to the tenants. Hot water with an R50LSi Rinnai direct vent water heater. Everything will be new. To assist in moving air from one room to another check out the Tjernlund Airshare. I have done several tens of thousand Rinnais over the years and they work exceedingly well. My normal disclaimer applies here. I, fortunately, represent Rinnai in New England! Happy Holidays!
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