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Jack

Jack

Joined on March 1, 2007

Last Post on September 14, 2014

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Your best value in this

@ November 19, 2007 6:18 AM in Oil or Propane for a really small house

case is to go with Propane and install either one Rinnai 1004 or two 556WTA's (www.ductlessheating.com). If you have problems moving air to any room check the Tjernlund Air Share. When buying LP get as large a tank as you can afford and bury it. Get a 500 or 1000 gal and you will eliminate the mid-season buying blues, especially for a house that size. The Rinnia's are a simple install and will heat your home efficiently and reliably.

Temp issues

@ November 13, 2007 9:39 PM in rinnai 431 wta

What are the dimensions of the space the heater is in. The 431 will fire from 8,200-16,700 btu and modulate both the burner and blower. I have seen this type situation before when the air hits an obstruction (wall/furniture) and rolls back to the unit cycling the unit off. Essentially the air cannot get into the room or the space it needs to heat. Try adjusting the directional louvers to direct the air into the space. You can push them to one side or the other with a screwdriver blade.

Try

@ July 18, 2007 8:50 PM in Remote sensors for Visionpro

a Braeburn 5300. It can be configured to average the stat and remote or to have just the remote be the sensing element. As an introductory promo, they are offering either the remote sensor or a thermostat guard free with every purchase.

For those with experince

@ July 16, 2007 5:36 PM in Weld a hair line crack in a Cast Iron Rad?

Would you not want to take a dremel and open up the crack a bit and maybe preheat the area a bit too. You do not call some one who can weld cast iron a welder. Yu call them an artist! I made a living as a welder and I could never do a decent job on anything cast iron.

Rinnai Energysaver

@ July 8, 2007 9:19 AM in cold basement

This is an excellent application for an Energysaver. Leave your properly functioning current system alone and add the Rinnai. High efficiency, modulating, Set-back t'stat on some models. Simple installation. Versatile venting options. I represent Rinnai, but I have heated my basement with one very satisfactorily. www.ductlessheating.com

On demand

@ July 8, 2007 9:15 AM in Indirect vs Tankless Domestic hot water

I represent Rinnai in New England. I also heat my hot water with a Rinnai, who makes the BW Everhot, btw. I can run two showers all day long. 2.5 gpm heads. Your issue is the tub. The Rinnai will deliver 4.5gpm at a 70 rise (50-120). Mixing that to 105 bath temp is 5gpm. I think you will find you rarely put all 90 gal in the tub, so you figure that out. Why do you want to run an oversized boiler all year round. With the Rinnai you will have the capacity to fill the tub but when the tub is filled and the water is off, you consume no energy. Sorry, that isn't true. You consume 2watts for standby. If you go this way be certain that you locate the on demand unit where it will give the best performance. Don't put it out in the north forty. Work to its strenghts. This unit will last a long time...assuming you feed it good water. Get a water analysis done. Personally, now that I've turned off my indirect for my Rinnai, I find that I have a boiler sized to produce hot water and I have loads of excess capacity. That is not efficient. I'm going to sell my really nice Buderus system and get into a properly sized modulating condensing boiler. Tightening up the energy envelop, so to speak. That might not be a bad way for you to go. It is worth a look!

Check the flow

@ July 7, 2007 11:09 AM in tankless water heater extreme water temp changes hot to cold.

thru the water heater with the shower running. You can read flows on the touch pad on the Rinnai. I would think you can do the same with the Noritz. You should be able to get a number to within .1 gpm. Don't know the key sequence to get the info. Once you set the temp on the shower valve at the desired temp and read the flow you will have a better idea of whether or not you are cycling off on low flow on your unit. How high a output temp are you running on your water heater. If in fact you are having low flow issues, running a high output temp on your system would exacerbate the low flow issue due to the mixing ratio.

Basically

@ July 5, 2007 10:29 PM in tankless heaters w/ mix valves

to get the mix valve to work you set the water heater at 120 and the mix valve at 120 and you get hot water. The problem with mv's and tankless is that there is a minimum flow and fire requirement to initiate operation. Set the heater at 140 and the mv at 120 and frequently the mix ratio will not allow the heater to reach its minimums to fire. Low flow shower heads and lavs can be a big problem. A tempering valve on a Rinnai is a solution in search of a problem.

There are several manufacturers

@ July 5, 2007 4:54 PM in Ductwork sealing

Polymer Adhesives is good. I like the Airseal 33 and 11. Kingco makes a good product and as all ready mentioned, Hardcast. I would recommend that you use a water based product regardless of brand. You don't want to get up in the attic and uncork some of the solvent based product because it will uncork you. This is largely like putting spackling compound on sheetrock. Put a bit on, wrap the tape around the joint and mud it in. If you have fairly large gaps in the joint the Airseal 33/Kingco Glenkote (I don't know the Hardcast equiv)is probably the better way to go as it has a fiber component that bridges gaps a bit better. Duct tape is useless after 30 days. In a hot attic, two weeks. Duct sealing is a good practice. It is required on commercial where they do pressure tests on duct systems. It should be SOP on residential also. I have a DOE circular that says you can loose up to 42% of your conditioned air in duct systems.

I couldn't agree with you more...

@ June 30, 2007 12:33 PM in Opinions needed on porch decking materials

I built a screened in porch several yrs ago and used 1x4 T&G mahogany in there and it looks great, but it is covered. Next to it on the deck and stairs down to the lawn I used the 5/4x6 mahogany (not the same species...apparently), and it jsut looks like hell. It would just burn off the various finsihes in a heart beat. As well, I put a really nice mahogany rail on the deck and stairs. It too look terrible. I'm fixin' to go composite too. I've got a bit of time for this (have to do the living room, master bath this year)but I'm getting started on the new handrails.I'm going to get some 3" pipe and weld up the posts and railings for poowder coating, then going to use a cable systemn for the "ballusters". The 9/06, Fine Homebuilding mag had a good article on this. For info on the cable rail check out www.cablerail.com, www.ultra-tec.com, www.atlantisrail.com and www.secosouth.com. With three boys you probably want the vert cable so it isn't a ladder to nowhere.... Good luck!

I am the Rinnai rep for your area

@ June 20, 2007 4:00 PM in Heating Super-insulated houses

I will be happy to meet to examine the plans/site etc to advise as to the application of the on-demand water heater and the Rinnai DV wall furnaces. May I help you? My cell is 617 834-8751

Not totally familiar with the Takagi, but...

@ June 19, 2007 7:02 AM in Takagi on demand hot water design question (milne)

The problem is typically the minimum flow/temp rise issue. Whenever anyone has a problem with a "water heater" of any type the conventional answer is to "turn the temp up". If you are looking at a low flow faucet and some other restriction, in this case the tempering valve, you should turn the temp down with on-demand. The higher water temp will require less flow to mix to the proper temp, dropping below the minimum flow to actuate the unit. See how your domestic circuit runs iwth the temp valve set at 120 and the unit set at 120. In fact, if you by-pass the temp valve and put 100% capacity to the dhw loop does the unit provide enough hot water to satisfy the customer? That answer will help define the problem and solution. Avoid tempering valves with on-demand water heaters. It is about impossible to get a high temp heating circuit and low temp dhw to peacefully coexist.

I used some

@ May 14, 2007 5:00 PM in Solar roll mat

Bull Headed Tees

@ May 1, 2007 12:39 PM in Bull headed tees

I was visiting a job at a beauty spa with two Rinnai Continuums piped to a Aqua Booster tank with a 009 Bronze pump supplying the Rinnai's. The Rinnai's checked out fine. Gas pressure was excellent and dropped only .5" with both units working. All mechanical components were working as designed but the system would not run. Here is what I found. The two Rinnai's were about 75' away from the tank and stuffed up into a dropped ceiling, to which I must say that just because they fit...does not mean they go there. The riser pipe came up to a bull headed tee on the cold feed. The pipe went around to the rt to feed one unit and around to the left to feed the other unit. Hot water pipe returned by the same path, met on the run of a tee and fed down to the tank. If one unit was isolated, the other would fire up fine and operate as desired. This was true of both units. When the A-stat called it made the pump, which created the flow which turned the turbine, inducer, spark, gas, flame (in a very short time)and then both units would go into error. The problem was that the Rinnai's were starting fine on the flow, but when the two hot pipes (flows) came togethr into the tee (about 12' of pipe on each side) the flows collided and stalled the flow turbine right at start-up. Perhaps a better way to say it is that it created a kind of recoil. This took place in a short time frame. It would stall the flow turbine just as the board was still proving flame current and properly lock out the unit. When I left the contractor was re-piping to feed from one side or the other and reverse return. I do not understand why folks would try to balance flow with bull headed tees. I'm also interested to see what the flow increase is from the pump. You can read the flow to a tenth of a gallon on the touch pads. This was a new one to me.

Bull Headed Tees

@ May 1, 2007 12:19 PM in Bull headed tees

I was visiting a job at a beauty spa with two Rinnai Continuums piped to a Aqua Booster tank with a 009 Bronze pump supplying the Rinnai's. The Rinnai's checked out fine. Gas pressure was excellent and dropped only .5" with both units working. All mechanical components were working as designed but the system would not run. Here is what I found. The two Rinnai's were about 75' away from the tank and stuffed up into a dropped ceiling, to which I must say that just because they fit...does not mean they go there. The riser pipe came up to a bull headed tee on the cold feed. The pipe went around to the rt to feed one unit and around to the left to feed the other unit. Hot water pipe returned by the same path, met on the run of a tee and fed down to the tank. If one unit was isolated, the other would fire up fine and operate as desired. This was true of both units. When the A-stat called it made the pump, which created the flow which turned the turbine, inducer, spark, gas, flame (in a very short time)and then both units would go into error. I've seen this on two jobs in the past two weeks. The problem was that the Rinnai's were starting fine on the flow, but when the two hot pipes (flows) came togethr into the tee (about 12' of pipe on each side) the flows collided and stalled the flow turbine right at start-up. Perhaps a better way to say it is that it created a kind of recoil. This took place in a short time frame. It would stall the flow turbine just as the board was still proving flame current and properly lock out the unit. I cannot understand why a system would be piped like that, but...it was. When I left the contractor was re-piping to feed from one side or the other and reverse return. I do not understand why folks would try to balance flow with bull headed tees. I'm also interested to see what the flow increase is from the pump. You can read the flow to a tenth of a gallon on the touch pads.

Just a question

@ April 28, 2007 11:20 AM in SS Chimney liner

What are you venting? 8" is pretty large. You might be able to downsize.

Mod/con choice

@ April 22, 2007 7:32 AM in Mod/con choice

If you were to pick a new gas fired, boiler for your home for a combination baseboard/radiant system, heat only, 80kbtu load, what would you pick? Why?

Make sure

@ April 8, 2007 8:39 AM in Oil Vs. Propane

if you go with propane to buy the largest tank you can and bury it in the yard. Out of sight, you own it and you have enough storage to buy when you want. I'd go propane too.

Check out

@ April 6, 2007 3:39 PM in DHW sizing

www.rinnaisolutions.com There is a sizing function there. I can assist you on questions. How many apts?

Try

@ April 2, 2007 5:48 PM in outside side wall mounted condensing units?

www.sauermann.us They make an excellent bracket system. Usual disclaimer applies here. I do represent them.

let's see

@ March 25, 2007 6:43 PM in Tjernlund power vent

If the system has been giving problems, definitely clean the wheel on the SS2, clean the air tube as mentioned above and clean the boiler. Start with that as a baseline. How is it wired. Tjernlund is trying to get the wirng to go b1-b2 on A-stat to SS2 to boiler. Put all the calls in series, that way you don't have the various controls fighting each other. It happens. Add combustion air to this system. You are fixing someones elses leavings. By the time you try once or twice unsuccessfully, the system is now yours. The Enforcer will only operate on a call for heat. It is the only unit that is designed to provide combustion and ventilation air and it has a positive lock-out. All manuals are available at www.tjernlund.com. Call tech service at 800 255-4208. Good luck

Recirc & on-demand

@ March 20, 2007 8:55 AM in Tankless with recirc?......(JohnNY)

When I intially installed my Rinnai I put it down by the boiler/indirect. Whoever plumbed my house eons ago put the master bath at the end of the hw line...so, I wait, with either the boiler or indirect. Having recently remodeled two of the bathrooms I took the opportunity to move the Rinnai right under the bathrooms and to re-pipe with a manifold system and 1/2" pex to each faucet. Basically I eliminated all the 3/4" hw piping. Shorter pipe runs and less vol equals better comfort, shorter wait and better economy. My point is that when installing an on-demand wh, check out the whole system/house and do not simply install the on-demand where the old water heater was. Most water heaters/indirects are a slave to the chimney location. My dv Rinnai doesn't need the chimney. Go ahead and bid the original location (A). Go look for the best location for the new on-demand (B). Tell the customer that B may likely cost a bit more to install but will give the best performance, comfort and economy longer term. On new construction this works too as you can reduce the amount of HW piping dramatically, if you can find the "right" location. We take recirc for granted as a solution, but it wastes a huge amount of energy. Copper pipe is just a piece of fin-tube baseboard without the fin. It is still an excellent hx, and our pipe insulation is not very high R value. I vote to eliminate recirc whenever possible to get the best out of the on-demand wh. I represent Rinnai and the jobs I visit are typically undersized gas lines and water heaters installed on the dark side of the moon.
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