Joined on March 1, 2007
Last Post on December 1, 2013
@ May 10, 2013 10:53 AM in Any advise on pex....I'm re-piping the house and running Uponor pex. I have the Milwaukee Expander. Wow, what a tool! I was able to 1" with the expander that I never could have done with the manual kit. Anyway, it is a manifold system. Longest run of hot water from my tankless will be 16' ;)
My question is, how are you terminating under the sinks, toilets for a secure mount? Any suggestion, much appreciated. I'm a copper guy by training and inclination, but water quality issues pointed to pex here.
@ May 2, 2013 9:46 AM in Rumor has ithttp://www.rinnai.us/boiler/product/qp130n
This is in the market now.
@ April 28, 2013 11:01 PM in Fujitsu concealed unitAt Fujitsugeneral.com and all the tech data is available to you.
@ April 21, 2013 8:03 PM in Radiant vs Forced Airto an existing home. IN fact, I would never install duct-work n a new home. You basically have to tear the house down to do a "good" install. I would recommend that you move ahead with the boiler install and if you need cooling with a very effective heat side as well, that you look at mini-split heat pumps. Muuuucccchh more efficient, ultimate in zone control and quiet.
Fujitsugeneral.com and Mitsubishi.com are the two top brands.
BTW, you don't say where you are.
@ March 22, 2013 10:42 AM in Noisy Carlin EZ gas conversion burnersWith Pete Axeman in his lab and he was showing me the Carlin gas burner. It was very loud. He said, "watch this", and put on a 1'section of I think it was 4" pipe on the inlet and the burner quieted right down. Really an amazing difference. Maybe there is something here for the EZ as well
@ March 8, 2013 10:48 AM in For your entertainment...It was a very hot fire. I went over to bladeforum and got some suggestions on how to re-harden the ax head. It is back in something like its mild steel form. Also, S&N being out of business I am going to have to unlimber the spokeshave and make a new 18" handle. Just beginning the re-model/addition of new kitchen and bathrooms I need more projects.
@ March 7, 2013 5:56 PM in Duct vs Ductless Air Conditionersthat your current ductless system is "net to the space" and there are no duct losses. Given the increase in efficiency of the mini-splits and the heating performance increases at low temps, I'd upgrade the mini-splits and give up on the thought of ductwork. What I did is pull my ducted system and install mini-splits. I put a single 25 Seer unit in the primary living area and a dual unit in the upstairs bedrooms. Adding an addition this spring for new kitchen and new bathrooms I will put another super efficiency unit in the common area of the kitchen and be done with it. Personally, I will never put ductwork into my house again.
@ March 7, 2013 4:05 PM in For your entertainment...When you do something this boneheaded you have to be able to share it with folks, so here goes. Yesterday I was building a fire in Vermont Castings Encore and my daughter arrived with my sweet little 18 month old Grandson. My wife and daughter were chatting away, as they will, in the other room. While I was getting the kindling set to go, I found that I had to go back outside for some larger wood. The lad was transfixed by Grandpa's efforts. I had my very nice Snow and Nealey hatchet next to the stove and realized I had to find some place to put it where the little guy couldn't get his hands on it while I was outside. What better place than to temporarily place it into the fire box. I'll pull it out when I put in the larger pieces. All good! As I am bringing the wood in the girls decide that is a good time to pepper me with questions, demands, suggestions, etc. Girls being girls I guess. So...,you know where this is going...I finish making the fire, light her off and away it goes. A while later I begin wondering where the hatchet is and go in search of. I could not find it and by now I have a real nice fire going. Dreading what I might find I go over to the stove and cannot see anything resembling a hatchet so I let it go. I let the fire go out overnight and this morning while cleaning up the ashes, I find my hatchet head in the ashes. I thought for a while of hiding the hatchet head, but this is just to good to keep to myself. I just showed it to the girls and they are ricochetting off the walls in hysterics. Every time I begin to think I am a pretty smart guy I do something like this!
By the by, if you are in need of a good hatchet, Snow and Nealy make excellent products. I'm going to buy the small splitting set with hatchet and small splitting maul...and a new handle. I'll give the new hatchet to my daughter so through the years, every time she touches it she will get a laugh. I'll re-temper the edge, sharpen and re-handle and hopefully I too will get a laugh every time I grab the darned thing.
On the brighter side, the little guy thinks Grandpa is OK, and in years to come I will tell him this story too.
@ February 17, 2013 12:57 PM in Tankless WH as boosterActually let me rephrase that. The thing about Rinnai and solar...I can't speak to other manuf as I don't know all of their specs, but it all pretty much starts with GPM X Delta T X 500= BTU. In order for the Rinnai's to initiate operation the unit must see a min of .4 gpm. Once it starts it will hold operation down to .26 gpm. On the RL94/75i the min btu is 10,300.
In the worst case you have to have a pretty hi delta T (around 50*) at the. .4gpm rate to initiate fire. You can push those numbers around and get operation at higher initial flow rates with a lower delta T.
A good solar system design in my opinion is to by-pass the tankless until you get a low enough solar tank temp to allow the delta T and flow rates to begin to let the tankless do its thing. I also don't like to simply run the water thru the tankless as all you are doing is driving the limits due to the high temps the solar tank can provide.
If I am not mistaken, and perhaps Mark will chime in here, Caleffi makes a 3 way for this type application. By-pass the tankless when there is sufficient hot in the tank. When the tank drops to a low enough temp, and you have to spend some time on setting this up, the 3 way diverts back to the tankless and it peaks the hot water.
I'm just re-modeling the house and want to install a system to do this. My problem is I have to do a sun-map to see if it is worth doing. My house sits under a very large Black Walnut, a 100' tall Ponderosa Pine and about 125' Sequoia, so it may not be worth doing;)
@ February 3, 2013 9:58 AM in Cold showers?in houses that have driven me nuts. Getting out of the mechanical room for a bit and something you can do and save yourself some dough is to do isolation runs with the hot water. Washing machines can cross flow. Shut off the valve and run your hot water tests. Every fixture has a hot and a cold. turn off the colds and see how the hot runs. Bring on the colds sequentially and see if it makes a difference. Do you have tempering valves on your toilets? In order to eliminate condensation on the toilets people have installed tempering valves that put warm water into the toilet. They can definitely back-flow and have produced exactly the type situation you are talking about.
@ February 2, 2013 7:49 PM in Rinnai Water Heater - Water Not Hot Enoughwith this comment. I'd be interested in your story on this topic. It is hard for me to believe that all those few hundred thousand people per year who are buying them are unhappy;)
To the original poster. Put a hose on the hot water outlet service valve and close the valve to the system. Set the unit to 120 and read the outlet temp on that water. That will by-pass your system entirely and give you a good hot water test. Get you install manual and get the sequence to read output temp and GPM of hot water flow. Report back!
@ January 26, 2013 10:48 AM in Rinnai Boiler Excessive Fuel Consumption ProblemYou should be on reset curve 4. Again that is in the parameters menu. Switching boilers is the last thing you want to do. Let me repeat, the last thing you want to do. The programming is simple...Once you have done it a few times. You have the manual. Follow it carefully. Before getting into the programming mode, examine the options and write down what you need for that specific parameter. Then go at it. As you step thru the parameters write down the default settings on your boiler.
In looking at it, I think you need to adjust parameter #2 to 4 and calculate the vent length altitude compensation factor for #73. The worksheet for 73 is clearly laid out in the manual
What is the heat loss for your home? Any information you provide should be prefaced with that info.
@ January 25, 2013 4:23 PM in Rinnai Boiler Excessive Fuel Consumption Problem800 621-9419 Trying to analyze fuel usage while under construction is kinda hard. Your fuel consumption figures of 2.3 gpd or 5gpd does not seem excessive. At 5 gpd you are looking at about 19000btu/hr of heat loss. That is not excessive.
There are 4 programming chapters in the unit. Parameters for set-up, Info for 18 specific details from water temp in /out, outdoor temp, % of power, total seasonal consumption and a bunch more. If you look into the INFO section of the display the boiler will tell you exactly what it is consuming and also give total energy consumption in kWh (1 kw = 3,414 btu). You also have a Service and Error section. Have your dealer show you the Info section, but DO NOT fool with Parameters. That is his job.
Has your dealer done a proper set-up on the unit? Did he use an oxygen analyzer? What type distribution system do you have? Baseboard? Radiant? Combination? What re-set curve is the unit operating on?
I'm sorry to play 50 questions to your questions but you are getting the idea. I could throw a dart at the question but need more info. That is an excellent unit and will heat your house well and efficiently.
@ January 21, 2013 10:23 AM in Large heating bills - where to go from hereMaking equipment decisions based upon an envelope you intend to tighten, but have not yet, is really not the way to go. You have heard that old saw about not putting the cart before the horse? Well, this is it! Get the envelope tightened. Create that stable thermal envelope, see how it does, and then make your decisions on heating gear. My old house in MA was not well insulated and had lousy windows. The first year I re-sided, wrapped, re-insulated and put in new, not replacement, windows and there was a profound difference in that house, not only energy wise, but it was quieter in the house as well, with reduced road noise, etc.
Apparently I didn't learn my lesson as the place I moved into here in CA had NO insulation, until I had the place "drilled and filled". Meeting the architect this morning to go over the re-model. Call your utility or local energy auditors to get an analysis of the building and see what you have.
@ January 20, 2013 2:49 PM in Rinnai RU98i only works with cover offon the RU model provides the combustion air chamber, meaning the CA enters thru the outer pipe in the concentric vent and then is pulled into the intake"horn" on the lower mid- rt side. Therefore, with 12 error code I would say that you need to check the vent to make sure the joints are secure and make sure you are getting no recirc of exhaust gases from the termination.
On your 110 I would suggest that you pull the kill the power, remove the cover and check to make sure that all the electrical connections are secure. You should be able to see if you are pinching one or it is kinda sorta connected.
@ January 18, 2013 2:17 PM in Rinnai R53i-1The Main Wall, gas heating and here on DHW. All comments are not in one section, so
@ January 18, 2013 2:13 PM in Rinnai tankless woesCheck your vent termination and the joints on the vent. Is it clear around the vent termination? It is possible that a condensing unit, garbage can, etc may be impacting the vent and re circing exhaust gases. Perhaps one of the joints is partially dis-lodged and in a low fire condition not cross contaminating, but under high fire flue gases are drawn into the fresh air side.
Your error code 14 on the first unit is in the safety/limits circuit. An open limit will prevent operation. That is a simple series loop and with a digital multimeter the open limit could be identified.
@ January 14, 2013 11:12 AM in Misc questions on radiantI would not even consider the geothermal. You can put in mini-split heat pumps and operate at a cost very close to the geothermal for far less dough. This is absolutely worth a look. The best brands are Fujitsu, Mitsubishi. Where are you located?
@ January 13, 2013 11:37 AM in Reading listI've only been noodling around this site for I don't know how many years...;)
@ January 13, 2013 11:35 AM in Rinnai R53i-1mention the heat exchanger. Adding the drain and replacing the gas valve are the supplemental issues at this point. The real issue is the hx. If, and I am quite sure this is the case based upon what you describe, the fins are "healed up" with the evaporated condensate you are going to create hot spots that will create a leak in fairly short order.
I think the instructions are supplied with the valve, but if not make sure you call tech service to walk you thru the process.
Here is another thought. Pull the inducer motor and look up into the bottom of the burner tray. If water has gotten into that area, which is likely the air distribution holes in that area will be healed up. When you pull the burner tray clean those up as well.
Who installed this? Was it a homeowner job?
@ January 12, 2013 11:47 AM in Reading listI have had a few people recently ask me what books they should have for hydronic training and reference . Fact is, when I think of it I could use them too because every time I begin to think I'm a pretty smart guy, something, well, comes up;) . So...If you were to suggest a reading and reference library of say 5 books, what would they be?
@ January 12, 2013 11:42 AM in Rinnai R53i-1You are looking at a new gas valve, absolutely. That tube is connected to the bottom area of the burner chamber. It has a nipple that sticks up probably 1/4-3/8" from the bottom so water cannot easily get into this tube. There has to be a LOT of water for this to happen.
My suggestion, having done a lot of these, is that you lift the vent and inspect the head of the heat exchanger. Rinnai specs 5'vertical, max , without a condensate drain. You are at 14'. The condensate is flooding the vent trap and dripping onto the hx. On a call for hw it fires, boils off the water and leaves behind the crap you are going to see on the fins. That is a 3 row coil so if it is really crapped up, and you will know, it is also time for a hx. Additionally, your intermittent fire is due to the condensate dripping thru the hx and hitting the flame rod. That will interrupt the flame current and error 12, if you had the controller. Once the moisture clears the hx it then goes into the burners and further spreads its joy, which if you have water in the gas valve tube it has certainly done. If you end up repairing this unit, you will have to clean the affected burners. There are 16 identical burners in that tray. Once you clean the 3 or 4 affected burners take those low fire burners, which will be the affected burners and move them to the far left of the burner tray. Put the original three on the left in the low fire position. Having seen a lot of these improper installs over the years I can tell you that you will save time by disconnecting the unit from the wall and laying it on its back. This is a 5 min job...if they installed the isolation service valves and if the vent is properly supported.
This is straight out a fault of the improper install. That is a good unit, when properly installed. $2 worth of clear vinyl tubing would have prevented this, as well as an installer who bothered to read the install manual. Mad Dog, as usual, has a point. You have to inspect this and looking at parts and labor determine the best course of events. Let me know if I can help further.