Joined on March 1, 2007
Last Post on May 19, 2013
@ November 30, 2012 12:09 PM in Combustion analyzesI need to pick up an analyzer. A good basic unit is what is called for here. What do you like and why? What to watch out for? Thanks!
@ November 16, 2012 10:35 PM in Rinnai E110CP explosive ignition and low heatYou can imagine my confusion;)
@ November 16, 2012 11:10 AM in Rinnai E110CP explosive ignition and low heatA few years ago I represented Metlund Designs in the New England an MA area. I had a conversation with Paul Kennedy, Chairman of the P&G Board in MA about getting approval on the product. He said it would not happen. I asked why and he said that "hot water exiting a tank water heater is non-potable water". Again, being slow, I did not get that so asked the question, "So I take potable cold water, feed it into a tank water heater and the water becomes non-potable exiting the water heater?" "Yes", said Paul. The break down of the anode rod and the sludge in the bottom of the water heater were to blame for this. Now, I can carry a new 40 gallon tank water heater by myself. I have seen plenty of failed tank water heaters that it took two men and a hand cart to remove, because there was so much sludge in the bottom of the tank. I understood his explanation, but pointed out that his problem wasn't the "cross connection" for recirc. but that he had a WATER HEATER PROBLEM. Given that I was the Rinnai rep at the time, I offered that the solution was to ban those pesky unhealthy tank style water heaters and have a Rinnai tankless installed in every house in MA. I was very excited at the possibilities. The conversation went downhill from there;)..., but jeez, it just made so much sense, to me at least. I never got the approval for the Metlund, which in my opinion is the best recirc system on the market.
This conversation took place 3-4 years ago, so things might have changed. MA is lucky to have Paul Kennedy in that position, imho! I miss working with the Board.
@ November 8, 2012 10:29 AM in Conversion from oil to propaneWhile the straight but comparison is a part of the story, one of the great benefits of the gas conversion is you can buy some technology. The benefits of a modulating gas will deliver greater efficiency over a season. As well, you can eliminate an old chimney. One of the best things about lp is you can buy your own gas tank and get sufficient storage to make it through the season without the mis season buys. I paid $1.44 this summer and have sufficient storage to make it thru till spring. Don't recall exactly but I think ME limits you to 2 330 gal oil storage tanks and they have to be inside. You can bury your LP tank. Also, no fuel will be as sensitive to political upheaval around the world as oil.
@ November 7, 2012 11:00 AM in Hanging ductless condenser on wallWith Fujitsu when the inverter units first came out we were told that "to short" a line set could cause harmonics. A year or so later, in conversation with a factory engineer, I asked what caused the harmonics. He said it could be the compressor wearing prematurely. Fujitsu does have minimum line set recommendations . Not sure on Mitsubishi and others. No offense meant!
@ November 7, 2012 10:54 AM in V O T E !Mine was a small precinct without lines. Steady participation from 7am-8pm. I enjoyed the process and recommend it to you if you can spare the time. We had the electronic machines as well as paper ballots, (the fill-in-the-box type). Everyone had a choice of voting method and 80-85% of people, without equivocation, chose the paper ballot. I'm with them.
@ November 6, 2012 3:44 PM in Hanging ductless condenser on wallFor your manuf clearances. I use the wall brackets and try to get as far off the wall as possible. My unit(s) could be mounted 4" from the wall. Also, check for minimum line set requirements. The resonance Clammy is referring to may be the compressor tearing itself up.
@ November 6, 2012 3:36 PM in V O T E !First time as an election volunteer. It's a pretty interesting process.
@ November 4, 2012 9:42 AM in Help with Heat and AC choice for Northern CAHere at my home in the foothills is to pull the ducted system which leaked like a sieve, and add mini-split heat pumps. I also have gas fired Rinnai wall Furnaces. Both systems eliminate duct or distribution systems. High efficiency, net to the space. It's been a good combination heating and ac.
My usual disclaimer. I represented Fujitsu and Rinnai for many years, so bias noted. But they work really well.
@ November 4, 2012 9:36 AM in Rinnai q130 boilerDoes the unit run through the pre-purge cycle? It is 17 min on start-up!
@ October 30, 2012 11:03 PM in Rinnai E110C DHW temperature too hottempering valve on the unit. The E75 and 110 C models require the field installation of a tempering valve .
@ October 27, 2012 10:14 AM in Bang for the buckIn Brrrrmont you might want to look at the BrrRinnai E110C;)
@ October 27, 2012 10:10 AM in daikin or mitsubishiI'd suggest you look at FujitsuGeneral.com for their training schedule n your area. They are the three top brands. Learn all you can from as many as you can. Then decide!
@ October 26, 2012 10:52 AM in Use of Rinnai tankless water heater in NHhave a few tens of thousand Rinnai tankless water heaters. You simply use the interior direct vent model. The recommendation of the 180-199 kbtu units is correct. At a 70*, 50-120F, you will get 4.3 to 4.7gpm for the .82 EF units and you get about 4.8-5.4 rpm with the .95 EF units. It is not a direct correlation but water heaters are tested to an Energy Factor rather than an Efficiency %. Frankly, for my modest hot water needs I went with the .82 and have been happy with it. Get an experienced contractor. There are many in your area.
My disclaimer for this info is that I was Rinnai's manuf Representative for 21 years in the New England States, so my bias is noted...but well deserved;)
@ October 17, 2012 7:49 PM in Rinnai Advice DHW CombiIs this a baseboard system? I have to say that with that small a heat load I would look at a couple Rinnai Energysavers DV's. One unit could easily handle the heat load but depending upon floor plan two may be best. A Rinnai tankless with that and, well, Bob's your Uncle! Much less dough. This is worth a look for sure. It's the way I heat my house.
The first hour rating of the indirect at 180 &200f is the hot water capacity with those output temps from the boiler. You will never see 200 out of the Rinnai. I'd use the 30 minimum if you go indirect. Is this ng or lp
@ October 16, 2012 3:24 PM in Power vent condensation problemsDo you think an oversized furnace short-cycling like crazy is a part of the problem? I would look down on the HX right away. It will not last with the current condition. As proposed, Double wall vent connector is always a good idea. Your double wall pipe is hitting the exhaust gases with whatever temps are outside pushing the stack temps below dew-point temps. Disconnect the cold air intake side for a while, making sure your set-up is correct and I'll bet things will improve. As noted, this is an attempt to create a kinda/sorta direct vent system with a single wall penetration. I'm thinking you are going to have short life from this furnace HX.
@ October 16, 2012 3:10 PM in Rinnai Advice DHW CombiAnd your outputs are correct for the 75/110. I will say that I think you need to run a flow check on your kitchen sink, labs, shower, etc. With my Rinnai tankless set at 120f with a 2.5gpm shower head I am running 2.1 gal of hot to .4 cold. The Rinnai boilers come with the 3"low loss header and the unit, in heat mode is doing nothing all day every day but maintaining a 36* temp rise across the unit, and short cycling "shouldn't" be a problem, but that said, what is your heat load?
If you are uncomfortable with the DHW output and want more your best bet would be the Q85s with an indirect. Rinnai has an optional 3-way valve that mounts to the unit and allow you to use the internal boilers variable speed pump to drive the indirect. You will like that system a whole bunch. If you do not want to use the optional valve you can run the indirect conventionally off the secondary side of the LLH, but you will need more pumps/controls for that.
I have to acknowledge my bias as I represented Rinnai for a long time and still consult with them.
@ October 3, 2012 11:52 PM in pedestal sinksYou have to be dead nuts on your rough-in...or else. The left had threads is identified by the "cut" in the lands of the nut. Kinda hard to describe. On the flats where your open end wrench goes the surface has a slot cut in the circumference.
@ September 22, 2012 10:42 AM in Post PurgeYou have discovered one of the primary reasons to have post purge. At shut down the pump stops the oil flow. The remaining oil in the burner is heated, expands and is forced out, peeing or dribbling into the chamber. No good! Put your post purge back on. Every system has a personality. You want a post purge sufficient to clear odors and reduce the heat enough to eliminate the "dribble".
@ September 19, 2012 11:01 AM in Buderus chimney condensation problemssupport for re-lining. We were never able to get the committee to include venting standards for re-lining. The excellent work on venting that Rick Krajewski and John Strasser did at Brookhaven in the early 90's got stuffed into Appendix E, never to see the light of day as it would raise system costs.
I will offer a conversation I had with Rich years ago about his work. What he said was that regardless of length, height, inside/outside, etc the thing that had the most consistent positive affect on flue operation was insulating the vent connector. Products are available for this. 4" pellet vent is L-vent and the DS and DVL products from Selkirk and Duravent, respectively, are excellent as well.
I spoke with a sweep from LI some time back who has been re-lining using App E for years and said the sizings are right on.
@ September 18, 2012 10:43 AM in Using solar to heat my poolOf a well fit pool cover is critical. As the NH nights cool you could loose all and more you may have gained with your solar system.
@ September 17, 2012 10:40 AM in Luxaire warrantiesOn the reason for rejection of warranty claim. This is generally a process. How did this go down, both the compressor and the rejection of coverage?