Joined on March 1, 2007
Last Post on December 1, 2013
@ November 7, 2012 10:54 AM in V O T E !Mine was a small precinct without lines. Steady participation from 7am-8pm. I enjoyed the process and recommend it to you if you can spare the time. We had the electronic machines as well as paper ballots, (the fill-in-the-box type). Everyone had a choice of voting method and 80-85% of people, without equivocation, chose the paper ballot. I'm with them.
@ November 6, 2012 3:44 PM in Hanging ductless condenser on wallFor your manuf clearances. I use the wall brackets and try to get as far off the wall as possible. My unit(s) could be mounted 4" from the wall. Also, check for minimum line set requirements. The resonance Clammy is referring to may be the compressor tearing itself up.
@ November 6, 2012 3:36 PM in V O T E !First time as an election volunteer. It's a pretty interesting process.
@ November 4, 2012 9:42 AM in Help with Heat and AC choice for Northern CAHere at my home in the foothills is to pull the ducted system which leaked like a sieve, and add mini-split heat pumps. I also have gas fired Rinnai wall Furnaces. Both systems eliminate duct or distribution systems. High efficiency, net to the space. It's been a good combination heating and ac.
My usual disclaimer. I represented Fujitsu and Rinnai for many years, so bias noted. But they work really well.
@ November 4, 2012 9:36 AM in Rinnai q130 boilerDoes the unit run through the pre-purge cycle? It is 17 min on start-up!
@ October 30, 2012 11:03 PM in Rinnai E110C DHW temperature too hottempering valve on the unit. The E75 and 110 C models require the field installation of a tempering valve .
@ October 27, 2012 10:14 AM in Bang for the buckIn Brrrrmont you might want to look at the BrrRinnai E110C;)
@ October 27, 2012 10:10 AM in daikin or mitsubishiI'd suggest you look at FujitsuGeneral.com for their training schedule n your area. They are the three top brands. Learn all you can from as many as you can. Then decide!
@ October 26, 2012 10:52 AM in Use of Rinnai tankless water heater in NHhave a few tens of thousand Rinnai tankless water heaters. You simply use the interior direct vent model. The recommendation of the 180-199 kbtu units is correct. At a 70*, 50-120F, you will get 4.3 to 4.7gpm for the .82 EF units and you get about 4.8-5.4 rpm with the .95 EF units. It is not a direct correlation but water heaters are tested to an Energy Factor rather than an Efficiency %. Frankly, for my modest hot water needs I went with the .82 and have been happy with it. Get an experienced contractor. There are many in your area.
My disclaimer for this info is that I was Rinnai's manuf Representative for 21 years in the New England States, so my bias is noted...but well deserved;)
@ October 17, 2012 7:49 PM in Rinnai Advice DHW CombiIs this a baseboard system? I have to say that with that small a heat load I would look at a couple Rinnai Energysavers DV's. One unit could easily handle the heat load but depending upon floor plan two may be best. A Rinnai tankless with that and, well, Bob's your Uncle! Much less dough. This is worth a look for sure. It's the way I heat my house.
The first hour rating of the indirect at 180 &200f is the hot water capacity with those output temps from the boiler. You will never see 200 out of the Rinnai. I'd use the 30 minimum if you go indirect. Is this ng or lp
@ October 16, 2012 3:24 PM in Power vent condensation problemsDo you think an oversized furnace short-cycling like crazy is a part of the problem? I would look down on the HX right away. It will not last with the current condition. As proposed, Double wall vent connector is always a good idea. Your double wall pipe is hitting the exhaust gases with whatever temps are outside pushing the stack temps below dew-point temps. Disconnect the cold air intake side for a while, making sure your set-up is correct and I'll bet things will improve. As noted, this is an attempt to create a kinda/sorta direct vent system with a single wall penetration. I'm thinking you are going to have short life from this furnace HX.
@ October 16, 2012 3:10 PM in Rinnai Advice DHW CombiAnd your outputs are correct for the 75/110. I will say that I think you need to run a flow check on your kitchen sink, labs, shower, etc. With my Rinnai tankless set at 120f with a 2.5gpm shower head I am running 2.1 gal of hot to .4 cold. The Rinnai boilers come with the 3"low loss header and the unit, in heat mode is doing nothing all day every day but maintaining a 36* temp rise across the unit, and short cycling "shouldn't" be a problem, but that said, what is your heat load?
If you are uncomfortable with the DHW output and want more your best bet would be the Q85s with an indirect. Rinnai has an optional 3-way valve that mounts to the unit and allow you to use the internal boilers variable speed pump to drive the indirect. You will like that system a whole bunch. If you do not want to use the optional valve you can run the indirect conventionally off the secondary side of the LLH, but you will need more pumps/controls for that.
I have to acknowledge my bias as I represented Rinnai for a long time and still consult with them.
@ October 3, 2012 11:52 PM in pedestal sinksYou have to be dead nuts on your rough-in...or else. The left had threads is identified by the "cut" in the lands of the nut. Kinda hard to describe. On the flats where your open end wrench goes the surface has a slot cut in the circumference.
@ September 22, 2012 10:42 AM in Post PurgeYou have discovered one of the primary reasons to have post purge. At shut down the pump stops the oil flow. The remaining oil in the burner is heated, expands and is forced out, peeing or dribbling into the chamber. No good! Put your post purge back on. Every system has a personality. You want a post purge sufficient to clear odors and reduce the heat enough to eliminate the "dribble".
@ September 19, 2012 11:01 AM in Buderus chimney condensation problemssupport for re-lining. We were never able to get the committee to include venting standards for re-lining. The excellent work on venting that Rick Krajewski and John Strasser did at Brookhaven in the early 90's got stuffed into Appendix E, never to see the light of day as it would raise system costs.
I will offer a conversation I had with Rich years ago about his work. What he said was that regardless of length, height, inside/outside, etc the thing that had the most consistent positive affect on flue operation was insulating the vent connector. Products are available for this. 4" pellet vent is L-vent and the DS and DVL products from Selkirk and Duravent, respectively, are excellent as well.
I spoke with a sweep from LI some time back who has been re-lining using App E for years and said the sizings are right on.
@ September 18, 2012 10:43 AM in Using solar to heat my poolOf a well fit pool cover is critical. As the NH nights cool you could loose all and more you may have gained with your solar system.
@ September 17, 2012 10:40 AM in Luxaire warrantiesOn the reason for rejection of warranty claim. This is generally a process. How did this go down, both the compressor and the rejection of coverage?
@ September 12, 2012 8:44 AM in Ventingwith the Dura-Vent, Dura-liner product. I have it in my house currently. There was an old insert that consumed vast quantities of wood and produced no heat. I replaced that with a VC Encore and was easily able to adapt the existing Dura-liner install to the free standing stove. Excellent product in my experience. I represented Dura-vent back in the 80's when they introduced this product.
@ September 12, 2012 8:38 AM in VentingAs always, there's more than one way to skin the cat. The base support on the B-vent T can be an issue and in fact when I did my sisters place I opened the wall up a bit. Then I supported the tee with a section of Unistrut. I pop rivet the joints as they are lowered being careful not to penetrate the inner liner.
I have also done the flex liners and tried to insulate them. Honestly, I can't think of anything related to chimneys that is a bigger pain. The insulation hangs up and tears and I think you end up with more voids. This is especially so if the chimney is tight. I end up looking like Looney Tunes on the roof;) I'm very good at that!
I haven't done one of these in some time and perhaps someone has figured out a better way of insulating, but I'd rather have the B-vent. It was just cleaner for me. Where oil is and is likely to stay I don't see it as a viable alternative in todays world. Hate to say that, but...!
@ September 7, 2012 10:02 AM in Rinnai RU98i only works with cover offunplug the unit from 120 v. Remove th cover and see if all the exposed wires are securely fastened. Pay particular attention to the yellow wire to the flame rod. As well make sure the insulating boot is secure on the sparker. If that isn't in place it may be arcing to the cover. This is your installers job.
@ September 7, 2012 9:58 AM in tankless gasketsin this case. given that you were able to do this for so long without the silidope I'd keep doing what you had always done before. A good clean bearing surface is the key and then securing in the proper sequence.
@ September 7, 2012 9:46 AM in Ventingis only one of the benefits of the B-vent liner. Probably the greatest benefit is the double wall construction which will protect the flue gas temp and eliminate or greatly reduce condensation. What happens in a flue is that there is a period on start-up where virtually every appliance will condense. Called the "wet-time" successful vent design with a properly sized flue will allow the vent to warm up and draw more quickly. Exterior chimneys are the worst and a single wall liner can be problematic due to the lower temps it sees. Also, and I do not have a current copy of the sizing guide, but do you really need 6" on a 30' chimney. Tim...Help;)