Joined on March 1, 2007
Last Post on February 28, 2014
@ April 8, 2012 2:47 PM in Wood and coal stove, venting flue, flue sizes, and flue HELP neededIt won't work. To much horizontal and fittings. The barrel with only one baffle will completely kill and velocity. Each of these individually would kill the draft. Your concrete chimney will kill any other draft just by absorbing the heat. You might try punching straight up thru the top of the container. Pipe diameter is the least of your worries here.
@ April 7, 2012 11:00 AM in The MastersIt is always good to see manuf in our industry advertising to the mass market. I enjoyed the bump from Rinnai when they advertised with Paul Harvey, NASCAR, etc. I was watching the Masters yesterday and saw Mitsubishi ads featuring Fred Couples. He is a tremendous spokesman and they get a big bump from him being co-leader going into the third round.
@ April 7, 2012 10:57 AM in Vac pump oilI bought this system a few years ago and intended to install it in the MA house. Then I sold the business/house and moved west, so it came with us. Glad to have a spot for it. Going forward, I cannot match that deal.
@ April 6, 2012 4:54 PM in Vac pump oilMy daughter bought a house in LA. What that means for me is that I now have another house to take care of;) it is only 450 miles away!!! Mine is a once used vac pump and that use was probably 3yrs ago, so hence my brain cramp. The house is only about 1000sq ft so I'm popping a 24 kbtu Dual Fujitsu with two 12k evaps in for her. Tore all the duct work from the old system out last trip. I haven't bought a line set in a long while. Holy Smokes...I was blown away at the price of copper.
@ April 6, 2012 10:33 AM in Vac pump oilHaving a brain cramp here this am. Does a 410a system vac pump require any special pump oil or is the standard stuff ok?
@ April 4, 2012 10:34 AM in I can't get the leaky relief valve to come off the boiler - what do I doall ready. Shut off and drain the system. Put a torch to the fitting holding the RV. That should soften, loosen, expand the fitting holding the relief valve in place allowing you to "do what is necessary" to back it out. Your other alternative if that doesn't work is to cut the main and section it back in giving you the needed access. Maybe you can get in there with a smaller pipe wrench and a cheater.
I guess your situation is why we build them so we can service them! Good luck!
@ April 2, 2012 2:34 AM in Water Furnace pump failuresI was installing them back in the late 70's where we used a glazed solar system to heat a covered pool, which provided the drive. Could not keep the equipment together. Gave up then. When I look at the output numbers from the mini-split heat pumps I cannot see spending the money on a gshp. To much to go wrong vs, simple install, net to the space, great zoning and much lower cost. As well the leaders in all the technology you say you are looking for. As far as I am concerned they are selling the tax credits.
I heard from one of the manuf of gshp this week and he said there is a big announcement coming on them this week. Wouldn't elaborate. Guess we will see.
@ March 31, 2012 11:23 AM in venting tankless water heater & weil Mclain Ultra 155between the two vents is 12" inside to inside, as long as they are at the same elevation. The Rinnai vent is concentric 3 & 5". Go to Rinnai.us and pick your water heater model. open details/documents and look at the installation manual for details
@ March 31, 2012 11:18 AM in Electric radiant...ugh!I really don't like the thought of anything electric, other than my mshp ;), Oh, and maybe, in view of your recent post, radiant windows. Since posting it appears that the remodel is expanding so other options may come in to play once she tells me what I'm building. I am replacing every window in the place. I may need an Airstream to live in for a while
@ March 31, 2012 11:11 AM in Latest from RinnaiThey have been using the poly-prop since the introduction of their condensing models and boilers. It is the 3/5" concentric. When Rinnai Japan (RJ) was designing the condensing units we told them we need a PVC vent. RJ Engineering took one look at the PVC and said no way! Emphatically I might add. We wanted it for competitive purposes. They wouldn't allow it for liability purposes. It is not approved venting material! Rinnai took the high road on this issue and I think it has hurt them in the market, but they are correct! The poly-prop is clearly superior, safer and IS a vent system.
@ March 29, 2012 4:07 PM in Opinions on window A\C installto put supports is also to anchor the case to the frame so it provides a bit of security as well. I'd suggest that you look into a mini-split heat pump for this as you can then enjoy the window, be b=more comfortable and save money in the operation, and it will heat!
@ March 26, 2012 10:38 AM in Electric radiant...ugh!Have been in the house for seven months now and time to start the re-model. Bathrooms then kitchen. Currently heating the house with Fujitsu mshp and two Rinnai Energysavers. How could I do anything else;)
The bathrooms are small and I need to power them somehow and electric in-floor radiant may be the answer, although I hate even thinking of elec resistance heating. What have you used that has worked? What to stay away from?
Any other suggestions?
@ March 21, 2012 11:27 PM in trainingbut while looking talk to your local distributors about what training they have available. Between FW Webb, Bell Simons, Coastal and others, you may be able to get some product focused training that is available from them. Good luck and best wishes on your training gig.
@ March 20, 2012 2:02 PM in Adding 220 sq ft radiant to existing systeminsulate with the ridged foam, tubing, light weight aggregate pour, 1/4" cement board and ceramic/stone tile. That would eliminate any noise and improve the response time.
@ March 18, 2012 2:26 PM in What do you think ofall the old stuff comes around again. I used to make heat reclaimers for wood stove stacks running water thru 3/4" tubing in an 18" length of stove pipe. It was a double wall unit Worked really well, except for the creosote it helped make. The lessons you learn.
Back in about 78 I went to an Energy Conference and met a guy who ran the maintenance dept for a local college and he was telling us that her was saving a lot of money reclaiming flue gases on the colleges boilers stacks. The following year I was really looking forward to hearing from this fellow on how things had worked out. I found a different person at the conference from the college and asked him how the reclaim project went. The original guy had been let go due to the failure of most of the colleges boilers due to corrosion which was induced by the low stack temps.
Oh, he also, with military like precision had all the staff synchronize their watches and at precisely noon had everyone of his guys test the big AC equipment around the campus by turning it on at precisely the same time. This spiked the power in a way that put the college into a new, much higher price level with the utility for the following year. I guess they call it "demand shadow".
Given the history of stack heat reclaiming and my experience with it, and my experience representing Z-Flex, Selkirk and Dura-Vent over the years I am extremely wary of heat reclaiming. I like to use a high efficiency heating appliance and let whatever heat is left over be exhausted.
What do you think manufacturers of furnaces and boilers would think of an installation equipped with this reclaiming "technology" from a warranty support standpoint ?
@ March 9, 2012 10:40 AM in Bad JuJu ?electrical gremlins can be an invitation to your own personal twilight zone. As Jamie pointed out, it can go all the way out to the service. When i bought my home in MA many years ago, I could not keep my equipment running reliably. As well, I was popping light bulbs like crazy and I blew a vcr (remember them?). I of course kept my head in the equipment, and the problem was found by the carpenter. I had the place re-sided in the spring and the carpenter doing the work dropped his hammer and broke the jug off the electrical meter. The utility guy came right up and called me over to show me that the neutral lug on the house side of the meter was totally corroded. Upgraded the service a bit sooner than I had planned and all was well for the next 17 yrs. Ask the customer if they are seeing any other electrical anomolies. Thanks for the update. Keep us posted, and good luck.
@ March 4, 2012 9:26 PM in Tjurnland SS 2 Power Venter locking out'will retain and show the last fault cause. Check out their web site for details on the UC1. The whole guts of the SS2 will slide out the back of the unit.
@ February 29, 2012 11:52 AM in Bosch aquastar 125NGYou will notice that Rinnai does not allow this application on their units. They have excellent technology in the flow control and gas valve control and it still would not work. Your aquastar has nowhere near the control of your Rinnai. You can keep throwing money at it, but you are building a headache and throwing good money after bad.
@ February 29, 2012 11:14 AM in Your thoughts please...On the "tankless water heater as boiler" I've seen. I have been called out on some jobs that had HUGE gas bills with the tankless burning 3 out of 16 burners burners ALL the time. in trying to get the owners to understand I'd tell them to put their car in low and drive at 1500 rpm all the time. Do it for a couple weeks and call me and let me know how it works for you. As I wander around the internet to different sites I am amazed at how many people absolutely insist on doing this.
@ February 23, 2012 1:03 PM in Question on NavienThat the hot water output on that unit is sufficient for the house. Combi boilers do not, typically, put out as much hot water as a straight tankless. I would suggest that you look at mini split heat pumps. You avoid the duct work expense, have " net to the space" higher efficiency H&C. It is extremely difficult as well as costly to add ductwork to a house.
@ February 18, 2012 9:27 PM in Gas Instantanious Heater Venting:...which I'm still lacking, I think you will find that it takes many 100kbtu to run a masonry chimney. You don't post the size of the flue. Net/net masonry chimneys are an excellent architectural device, but a poor mechanical device. Honestly, I don't know why people continue to pay for eleventh century technology to be built.
If you cannot give them capacity on the masonry flue or side wall, you may need to look at other locations. I had really good results putting tankless in areas other than the mechanical room. Put it in a closet closest to the point of use. You may have a ball running the new gas line, but it may, depending upon location provide better comfort. Take a walk around the place and see if there are any other options.
He wasted his money on that chimney the day the house was built.