Joined on December 16, 2003
Last Post on May 1, 2013
@ May 1, 2013 10:32 PM in Old building DHW recirc systemYou need to read the other post about the return line erosion.
That is WAY too big of a pump - You will destroy the piping.
@ May 1, 2013 10:23 PM in Hot Water Recirculation pipe erosionIt is caused by velocity erosion. The erosion will be on the inside of the downstream side of every elbow. Thicker pipe will not stop the erosion it will just delay the repair. ( L versus M copper )
You need to slow the water down a LOT. 1 GPM would be great. 2 story houses usually don't need a pump at all. ( I unplugged mine.)
@ April 6, 2013 8:25 PM in Stupid question here but can't seem to figure this out.First of all YOU have to see if the aquastat is bad. Powerpile or 24 volt can still have a problem. When the burner is firing remove one wire off of the aquastat to see if the burner shuts down ( it may take a few seconds to respond to open or close) If it doesn't then something is wrong with the wiring, gas valve or aquastat relay controller.
You will have to figure out where the circuit is closed.
As for the second floor getting too hot. The flow checks may be working just fine BUT normal operating temperature is 180* - 220* is possibly over powering the 2nd floor flow check. Get the temps back down to normal and see what happens.
@ March 27, 2013 8:31 PM in Advice on heating unitHow much ceiling height do you have?
You could always put a 40 gallon superstor on the floor.
And build a stand to put the boiler above it.
@ March 26, 2013 10:24 PM in Advice on heating unitI would not recommend any combi water heaters. They will be more trouble and cost more in maintenance.
I would go with a small boiler and separate water heater.
Water heaters are cheap to replace and being a commercial job the indirect would not have a good warranty. Since You will not be paying the gas bill I would go with a small cast iron boiler and a standard water heater. LOW initial cost and LOW cost of maintenance.
@ March 23, 2013 9:04 PM in Water service freezingIf you run heat tape I would run at least one spare for when the first one burns out.
Hate to dig it up again.
@ March 23, 2013 8:52 PM in Pressure rising to 60psiIf this is a standard 30 PSI max pressure boiler the tank should have a precharge of 12 PSI.
And the most important question is WHY didn't your relief valve trip. If is has a 30 set point it should have tripped. Replace it NOW.
As far as the pressure gain IF you don't have an indirect domestic water heater ( hole in coil is pushing water into the boiler system ) Then the pressure reducing valve is bad and the shut off valve is letting water leak into the boiler. replace both.
@ March 23, 2013 8:46 PM in LOUD Lennox PulseDoes it have mufflers on the intake and exhaust?
Changing or cleaning the intake flapper won't help anything. They don't get dirty with the same crud that was on the intake screen of your indirect. If the flapper was bad the furnace wouldn't run.
I would offer to pay for the proper LENNOX serviceman to come out ( cheaper than a lawyer ). Just make sure YOU talk to the company and make darn sure they send out the tech that knows how to service a pulse. I have a few that I still service - had to replace one last year due to a failed heat exchanger.
@ March 10, 2013 12:15 PM in Two Pipe Reverse Return QuestionYou might want to think about an Alpha pump with fixed head pressure. That way the pump is not dead heading when most of the TRV's are closed.
@ March 10, 2013 12:08 PM in new boiler. new construction. anyone ever have this? flame rolling outWhat boiler?
Yes heavy dust can cause the boiler to soot up and have roll out.
@ March 10, 2013 10:06 AM in Two Pipe Reverse Return QuestionThe volume of water in the pipes is small compared to what is in the rad's.
The TRV's will cause a restriction to flow - but if you install a system pump with slightly higher head it will over come the resistance.
I usually install a stronger pump on monoflow systems anyways.
Just make sure that You install at least a 100 mesh strainer in the secondary loop return line going to the boiler. ( not in the rad loop )
I would only replace the piping IF it is at least 80 years old or leaking. OR to gain head height in the basement.
@ March 10, 2013 9:49 AM in Garage Slab Thermal BreakLets see you cover the footings with 2 inch blue board.
@ March 9, 2013 10:19 PM in Two Pipe Reverse Return QuestionIf you are going to use TRV's then balanced flow won't be that important.
The only time it might be an issue is when it is very cold out and all of them are open.
With the TRV's you will only get the flow that each rad needs to heat the room.
Why are you getting rid of the mono flow system. Just install the TRV's on the mono flow system and save the cost and time of repiping it.
@ March 9, 2013 10:12 PM in Garage Slab Thermal BreakI always keep the tubing away from the door openings by at least 18 inches. never had one freeze. even with a big heat break the earth is still going to transmit heat.
even with 2 inches of blueboard around the perimeter of the walkout basement walls you will still not have snow up against the cement walls. And I run insultarp up onto the footings to break the slab contact to the vertical walls. I am just saying that the sayings won't pay for the effort and cost of a break that would make it worth it.
@ March 9, 2013 5:21 PM in flo-check problems. getting stuck open or closed. any info?DING DING DING
Ron got it right - more than likely crud holding the valve open.
If YOU use Teflon tape ( I do ) You have to make sure that the first thread is clear. ( keep the tape back one thread ) If tape gets into the system it can do crazy things.
Had a call one time that the installer couldn't get a pump to flow water. Turns out that he used Teflon tape and it was hanging over the end of the pipe and when he tightened the connection it spread across the pipe and sealed it off.
@ March 9, 2013 5:14 PM in Garage Slab Thermal BreakWhy all of the extra cost - I just use the brown board the cement guys use. It's not like you are heating your garage to 70* all day long. Yeah it melts the snow out 12" but it can't cost that much in wasted heat. I am heating my barn to 50* all winter with only 90* water from the boiler.
@ March 9, 2013 5:09 PM in problem with zone valvesSounds to me like you are getting a trickle current from your thermostats or wiring.
@ March 7, 2013 10:45 PM in Munchkin BoilerIF you are loosing blowers on a regular basis YOUR boiler is NOT installed properly. VENTING and draining are the most important parts. If the boiler holds water it will destroy the refractories and you will get F09's, (The flame rods will be red in color). If the boiler is not vented properly and you are getting exhaust gas reversion you will take out the blowers and electronics. ( the electrodes will be white in color) I ALLWAYS separate the two pipes ( I never use concentric ) by at least 18 inches vertically. When you take the cover off the boiler what does the aluminum parts look like, nice and shiny or dull. I am betting yours are dull. acidic exhaust gasses attack the aluminum and dull the finish. I have the original red cover Munchkins still running with no isues since I started working on them 8 years ago.
@ March 7, 2013 7:46 PM in Sidewall Venting:It would be legal here.
they probably didn't want a penetration of the cedar shake siding.
I would have snorkeled both pipes up 12 inches above average snow line.
I don't use concentric vent terminations. ( unless going vertical through a roof and then I extend the center vent up another 12 inches)
@ March 6, 2013 10:16 PM in Hydro-airI would do a pair of smaller WHN units and outdoor reset and pair them togeather.
That way you will get maximum efficiency. It will not be 94 percent unless you can get the water temp down to 120* OR LOWER.
Could you pair 4 - 95% residential furnaces togeather?
@ March 6, 2013 9:58 PM in Sidewall Venting:if it is at least 12 inches away from the windows and it looks like it is - it is legal.
doesn't mean that I like it but if it is legal and the only place to vent it.
I would have snorkeled the exhaust up away from the lower windows.