Heating Help

1937

@ March 10, 2005 12:39 AM in 1937

like this?

@ March 6, 2005 10:38 PM in HELP! It's without heat in SLC!

Manwill are plumbers to the best of my knowledge. You need more than pipes that hold water on a boiler install. I think they do scorched air, but that is yet another story. Boilers are specialized things. H&H.....trust me.

@ March 6, 2005 10:32 PM in HELP! It's without heat in SLC!

Sounds like they are 'giving' so you don't 'press'. If the install is bunk, then it's all their fault...everything plus damages for inconvienience. No experience with Manwill, but if you call Steve @ H&H Boiler, he will talk to you and tell you what you have. He spent hours with me explaining systems, and is a stand-up, great man. He is the boiler pro in SLC!!!!!!!I have a HW system as well, and he knew everything there was to know about it. Friendly as anyone you ever met. Tim

@ March 4, 2005 10:56 PM in HELP! It's without heat in SLC!

Salt Lake City UT

@ March 4, 2005 10:39 PM in HELP! It's without heat in SLC!

Yeah, a giant desert that we live in the middle of.

@ March 4, 2005 10:24 PM in HELP! It's without heat in SLC!

If it's not in NE you guys are lost. Is it because we dont have an NFL team!

@ March 4, 2005 8:55 PM in HELP! It's without heat in SLC!

I am in SLC. call Thornton H&A or better yet, Steve at H&H boiler.

@ March 4, 2005 8:40 PM in Do you want to see something stupid?

About a year ago I saw a fox show that showed a firefighter fix a gas leak (in the middle of a pipe) with a piece of duct tape and offered up a "phew! That could have been deadly". The things people see and believe!

pump speed

@ February 21, 2005 1:09 AM in pump speed

Guys... Here I am...a happy HO. Pumping away (from the point of no pressure change) and now the swing-check valves were rattling through the system, but all else is perfect. I have 3 zones with grundfos ups 15-42-f pumps, set to speed 3. When put on speed 2, rattling lessened. On speed one, no rattle, and no boiler crackel or anything of the sort. Is setting 1 too low? Each zone aprox 70', 2 zones 11/2" and one 1". All reduce to 3/4 at the pumps and at the return swingchecks, with 1" manifolds. Any reason to have them up on 2 or 3 when seems to be fine on 1? Thanks yet again, if this were a major problem, I would find a pro (allthough there is not one listed for the Salt Lake City area). I appreciate the help on these little annoyances. Tim White

big deal

@ February 19, 2005 12:38 AM in ßig deal

What exactly is the big benefit of pumping away from the exp tank boiler? I have been told this is a past 10 years thing and has no real benefit by an old salty dog. My system runs excellent. T

bleeding forever

@ February 18, 2005 1:06 PM in bleeding forever

Thanks to all for great advise...I am now insulated, and pumping away with swing check valves on both sides...Works great! Question is that one wall mount rad always has the same amount of air in it, every day, but not much. Farthest away from the boiler, end of a zone, highest. I run at 20# and 180. Will this ever bleed out all the way? Had to replace all the water in the system last time due to making new inlet & outlet manifolds, about a week ago. Thanks again for the great reads, posts, and advise. This is where the pros live and dwell, and the occasional HO. Tim

@ February 12, 2005 11:32 AM in Bleeding radiators.

depends on how far down you drained the system. if just minor, bleed them all out cold, and run the system. bleed an hour later with everything running and hot, and again the next day. if all the way drained, I run all zones on together for one minute, and re-bleed, twice, to get all the air out of the boiler before firing it up for any time to eliminate boiling.

expansion tank question

@ February 11, 2005 5:29 PM in expansion tank question

I removed my expansion tank to increase my manifold size and replace / install some swing-check valves. Do I 'purge' or release some pressure from my now empty expansion tank after re-filling the system? Tim

info

@ February 11, 2005 10:22 AM in hot water boiler zones

Sorry about the pic...House is about 1600sqf. zones 1,2 are about the same, 60-70 feet total because the boiler is central in the basement.Both are 11/2 original pipe. Zone 3 runs about 70 feet, the new 1" copper pipe I added. Like I said, this is what I got. So the pumps should be feeding, and not returning? I get great heat, and have insulated well. No flow checks at all. Did not matter until I separated the zones. Do you still want a better pic?

noises

@ February 11, 2005 10:04 AM in Boiler Making Odd Noise

My boiler was making the same noises but just when one zone was on, but that zone was installed by some DIY guy years ago. He ran 1/2" pipe, which it turns out was insufficient flow, allowing the water to boil. I had to replace the entire run to 1" for better flow and that solved the problem.

zones

@ February 11, 2005 9:56 AM in hot water boiler zones

should flow checks go on all 3 zones?

zones

@ February 10, 2005 11:42 PM in hot water boiler zones

Both sides? I anticipated needing to re-pipe the return side, but is there a benefit to upsizing it to 1" or 11/4"? What exactly do you mean by bypass? I understand the flow checks. Tim

welding

@ February 10, 2005 11:02 PM in Cast Iron Redator w/ leak

A welder should be able to use a special cast-iron rod or mig to fill the hole, when the system is empty. Tim

bleeding

@ February 10, 2005 10:55 PM in Bleeding radiators.

I am an HO myself, but have found it made no difference where you start, as each radiator has it's amount of trapped air already. I also found I needed to bleed them the next day, and a couple days later to be sure I got it all. Tim

hot water boiler zones

@ February 10, 2005 10:41 PM in hot water boiler zones

I have a Teledyne-Larrs hot water boiler with 3 zones or pumps. I am a HO who is very experienced in this subject except for the occasional problem such as this one. The boiler was here when my wife & I moved in. I had crackeling in the boiler when zone 3 (1/2" pipe) was running so I upsized it to 1" and the knocking went away with the increased flow...but now zone 3 'backfeeds' through the Grundfus pump and 'backheats' zone 2 through the return pipe, as zone 2's feed is cool but the return is hot. A meter verified the pumps zones are working fine. All 3 zones feed in a row into a 3/4 common pipe which takes it to the boiler, with 1" inlets. Should this common pipe be 1" or larger to provide less restriction? Zone 2 has a 11/2 pipe for it's return, and I assume it likes sending the returned water there rather than back to the boiler? As you can see, all 3 zones reduce to 3/4 prior to returning. I run the system at 175 degrees and 20 lbs. Thanks for any advise out there, Tim