Heating Help

polarity

@ May 1, 2010 4:33 PM in Electrical Problem

I Have seen many issues like this where the polarity was reversed at the disconnect for the boilers. Makes it impossible to shut off power to boiler without killing the main.

Tim

Degree calc

@ April 28, 2010 11:40 PM in design temp in Alta, Utah?

http://www.degreedays.net/

Either should dial in great. Do you have a supplier? I am sure I will hear back tomorrow from a couple reps. Please feel free to email me direct at timco@xmission.com with any needs for parts suppliers.

do not want

@ April 28, 2010 7:00 PM in How dumb can a person be?

Not good

design temp

@ April 28, 2010 6:57 PM in design temp in Alta, Utah?

I will ask a few of my suppliers tomorrow. I am in SLC, and have heard 5-8 for us, but never set an ODR in Alta. It is WAY up the canyon, much higher than us with snow well into summer. Gas book shows a different specific gravity for them as well. Just sent off a text and an email...

If you need any recommendations for eats or lodging, let me know!

Tim

water temps

@ April 20, 2010 11:07 PM in Hot water heater no longer produces enough hot water. Why?

What is the incoming water temp? What is the GPM of the demand (shower head)? Use a 5 gal bucket and at the tub spout measure what you are really getting. Deposits on tank bottom is another issue. Maybe the stat is getting a false reading of actual water temp?

program

@ April 20, 2010 11:04 PM in Owner

I still use the free heatloss program I got from this site, from Slantfin. Works fine.

installs

@ April 19, 2010 12:09 AM in How is rAy these days?

Both of my installs needed igniters, control heads, and ignition controls, but one needed all new wiring harness. So far so good, and customers are currently happy finally now. This made me look bad for a while but my hope is that they are now reliable and GTG.  Again, I like the design and looks but need reliability for the customer's sake as well as mine..

pump location

@ April 17, 2010 9:25 PM in trouble with baseboard

I have found systems where return mounted pumps shove water into the supply manifold and the water takes the path of least resistance to get back to the return manifold. Again, IFC pumps, under-slung return lines, spring / flow checks, and so on will fix this. Good near boiler piping practices ensure this does not happen and is the mark of a real pro. 

How is rAy these days?

@ April 17, 2010 9:17 PM in How is rAy these days?

I installed a couple when they were '200i' boilers. Very early, I was told we were the first test market. Both early units had electronic issues, and one had real bad problems that put my customers at risk, but I like the design, materials and looks of the boiler. Anyone installing these currently? Issues? I would like to try one again but I really need to know they are reliable first.

Tim

favorite boiler to install?

@ April 17, 2010 9:10 PM in favorite boiler to install?

So what is your favorite boiler to install and why? Features? Reputation? Pricing? Why do you call out the boilers you do? How long have you been using the brands you do? Same goes for all the other parts in the system?

Tim

warranty

@ April 11, 2010 10:45 PM in What are the dangers of buying a used boiler

I would ask for a 30 day warranty after it is fired. A hot boiler may leak faster than a sitting cold boiler. HX look clean? 

Use

@ April 2, 2010 8:08 AM in Sizing DHW boiler

Sorry, apartments. about 40 units. 

Sizing DHW boiler

@ April 1, 2010 10:57 PM in Sizing DHW boiler

Laars Mighty Therm just died today, 17+ years old. A replacement is about a week out. I can get a Ajax unit here Tuesday, but the existing boiler is 325K and the Ajax sizes are 300K or 400K. Boiler is heating 3-200gal Lochinvar indirects. Any idea if the 300K unit would do the job? Never sized a DHW boiler before. Ajax for brand? Any thoughts? All 1.25" copper piping.

Tim

radiator tapping question

@ March 17, 2010 2:08 PM in radiator tapping question

I am putting a larger rad in my basement b-room, and it has tappings from bottom to top diagonally. Question is, should supply be top or bottom tap? I am guessing bottom because heat rises and would heat rad better that way? 2-pipe. I have always piped across bottom but would like to not have to change the tappings on this.

Tim

poll

@ March 17, 2010 12:19 AM in Heating Help in the sack!

I voted in the poll that it was creepy...as did well over 80% of other voters. How's the fishing up there? I saw an ad for Barrow heating & air...seems no takers yet but I was tempted....NOT!

Tim

bleeders

@ March 16, 2010 12:50 AM in What do you think?

they make bleeder 90's for this...a 90* elbow with a bleeder port, bras or copper.

Tim

fast fill

@ March 16, 2010 12:47 AM in Bleeding multiple zones question

Close the fast fill with hose still attached and drain the system back down to 12# cold for 1 story, 15# cold for 2-3 story. If you drain out too much, the fill will refill it to the set pressure.

Tim

hydro air

@ March 16, 2010 12:44 AM in Can't get the 4th zone to heat. What System is this?

What you have is hydro air. The coil in the fan unit will have a bleeder, or you can ramp up the pressure and purge through that hose bib after closing the valve downstream of it.

Tim

isolation

@ March 15, 2010 11:36 PM in What do you think?

really cool to be able to isolate the air sep for cleaning the brush, and cleaning the head. What type if air removal devise does it use? I tried taco's newer design with the ss rings in it, but not much more air was removed than the 'not so' supervent from honeywell. I can hear air cruise by with both, and I can't help but wonder why buy an air removal devise if it does not remove air rushing by???

Tim

install

@ March 15, 2010 11:28 PM in Navien Tankless, A BIG MISTAKE!

Classy install, looks tight. Nice job! Let us know how this turns out, and if you will be using Navian again...

Tim

reverse return

@ March 14, 2010 10:48 PM in old gravity system

As I picture it in my head, two pipe is two pipe...direct or reverse return.

Tim

Protect mfg?

@ March 14, 2010 2:36 PM in Navien Tankless, A BIG MISTAKE!

"Tim, so I am trying to help those people out there trying to make a
decision when it comes to selecting a tankless hot water heater to
present to their customers. I would value the information gathered here
from like professionals and wish only to aid those who take great pride
in their work. Why are you protecting the MFG? It is the MFG who
doesn't get hurt in this situation where I have to replace a BRAND NEW
piece of equipment due to poor MFGing and quality control. I would only
hope a rep would actually stand up for their piece of equipment and
stand up and say something productive in a thread somewhere, do you
ever see it happen?"

I actually do see it happen, right here. Laars and a few other big names lurk here and are glad to help customers with issues, even when they start off rude. I chose my brand of tankless (authorized Rinnai service person) by doing some research and attending their class, not the next cheapest thing to come along. I also install 2-3 of a new product, and see how it flies before installing a dozen. I am not taking the mfg's side, I am taking the website's side by simply stating that name bashing doesn't help anything. I am sure glad that the customers (2) that got bad early versions of a boiler I recommended and sold them did not find the first heating forum they could find and smear my name over it. Does Navian make their own HXs or does another company provide them? Point is, it may be a issue with another mfg, not Navian, and tossing them under the bus will not solve your issue, but not purchasing another unit will...just as I told the mfg I had an issue with. My issues were gas leaks that could have sent my customer's house to the moon if I had not used a sniffer and analyzer, and I never mentioned their name here. I was not even paid for my return trips to make them right until nearly a year later. There are more professional ways to approach a reoccurring problem.

Tim