Heating Help

OK to remove dead auto damper from flue?

@ August 17, 2010 4:45 PM in OK to remove dead auto damper from flue?

Hello all---
I'm a homeowner, and trying to be extra cautious about proper venting so I hope I'm not asking a dumb question.

I have a standing pilot, nat gas boiler, atmospheric vent--- with an autodamper on the stack.

The autodamper has failed frequently....either getting stuck or having the motor poop out.

The contractor replaced it several times and finally gave up, and permanently disabled it by pulling the activation wiring. However, it is still installed in the flue above the draft hood, obviously permanently in "open" position.

It would be very easy for me to remove and I would like to do that to eliminate any risk (very small, of course) of activating it somehow. It made no disernable difference in efficiency anyways even when it did work.

I also imagine it might (in a very limited manner) improve draft a bit to have it gone.

Any reason that would not be safe? The flue is singlewall 5" vent, and I would probably just replace the whole section of vent to eliminate a joint. Am I right it would marginally improve draft too?

thank you for any expert advice offered, I appreciate it.

no heat w/newer buderus

@ March 18, 2009 12:25 PM in No heat w/new-ish Buderus boiler

Hello Gents: Homeowner here--been on the board before with questions about a poor changeout of a Buderus G124x, standing pilot. I've had various troubles with it (aquastat, autodamper, etc) but generally it's run OK. My problem now is that the pilot went out sometime yesterday--no wind, gas outage, or anything --seems like it just went out. Now, I can't keep the pilot lit. Unfortunately, I got the short end of the stick on the install (their piping/sizing and such was heavily panned on the Wall. Nobody else seems willing to service Buderus in my area, and I really don't want to call the people who made such a mess of the original install. But it's getting cold! As I said, pilot won't stay lit. There is gas, nice blue flame when pilot button on the Honeywell valve is held down. Soon as I let go, it's out. Main power fine, 24 Volts all the way to valve assembly. Thermostat calls for heat, and I hear the click when it does. I guess this is probably the thermocouple? It's only four years old, but seems most likely? Anyway to temporarily over-ride it so it will fire until I get help? How hard a fix is it? Thanks for any help you can give...I'm trying to make the best of a bad situation. mike General Info: Buderus G124X25 Gravity conversion, hot water system. One zone only to old fashioned rads. Four years old. Original Aquastat failed within a year and was replaced with a simpler Honey L8148J. Flue damper glitches resulted in damper being disconnected too. Gas control valve is Honey VR8200H1004

is pitch important for hot water rads?

@ October 30, 2007 2:40 PM in Is radiator pitch important for hot water boilers?

Hi all-- Dumb homeowner Q here... I have a cast iron column radiator that tends to get air stuck in it. I notice it is pitched AWAY from piping (both return and supply are on the same side of the rad, and it slopes away from those). IS this a problem? I know in my time living with a steam boiler slope was very important. A little info from my mediocre knowledge base: System is newer boiler, one zone--converted from gravity to forced. I know the "airy" radiator was replaced at some point due to freeze...also that room has a sloped floor (oooold house) but it would be easy enough to shim the radiator if it would help. thanks very much for any advice!