Joined on November 24, 2007
Last Post on December 6, 2013
@ December 6, 2013 7:51 PM in Regulating steam valveEvery bit of the interior is covered with tile and marble--NBC
@ December 6, 2013 11:01 AM in Regulating steam valveThere are 2 types, and the round handled non regulated turns freely.--nbc
@ December 6, 2013 10:52 AM in Honeywell Visionpro problemsI think in that case the thermostat would fall into a fail safe mode and just maintain some low temperature to protect against freezing but good idea , and I will change them out.--NBC
@ December 6, 2013 9:42 AM in Honeywell Visionpro problemsThe reason for choosing it in the beginning was because of the remote sensor. Mine may have been zapped with a static spark last winter, scrambling its little brain.
Maybe I will try the Ecobee next with internet access.--NBC
@ December 6, 2013 9:14 AM in Honeywell Visionpro problemsDown in the basement doing some washing, I noticed some odd boiler behavior.
The boiler fired for a couple of minutes, and cut off. In spite of my speedy venting, I am sure that the remote sensor in the northeast second floor could not have been satisfied.
Has anyone else noticed odd Visionpro operation?--NBC
@ December 6, 2013 8:43 AM in Probably a question you are asked alot..The heat problems in this building would never have been tolerated when the building was first built. It sounds like a real steam pro is needed here to make some relatively inexpensive changes to undo the years of neglected maintenance.
If you have a car with dragging brakes, do you automatically buy a new car; or fix the brakes?
The baseboard will not be as good a match for a mod-con boiler, as cast iron radiators. Post some pictures here of the boiler, and it's piping, and we can advise.--NBC
@ December 5, 2013 11:08 PM in Regulating steam valveIn some old movie, I saw an old diamond cutter spending time deliberating on the cut of a large stone. He was having trouble making up his mind making the decision as to where to cut. He worried and complained. Finally, he got ready for the cut, and made it right.
Maybe I will do that. I will agonize for days before I decide!--NBC
@ December 5, 2013 9:15 PM in Regulating steam valveThanks for your replies. I am sure that this valve has a bonnet, and I will try to loosen that, and use a bit of PBBlaster. I'll post pictures later.
There is a graduated ring, with a stop. This ring is held down with a big nut to the valve bonnet body, and has a small pin on it's underside which can fit into several indentations in the bonnet body. This probably enables the valve to stop opening at the point where too much steam is being let into the radiator. There are 2 big radiators in the Apse of the chapel, with this valve. I suppose that in the original coal burning days, these big rads could have been needed when it was very cold, and maybe not when it was milder.
They are just too nice not to use.
The only problem with my project is in providing the air conditioning (oh curse our hot summers!) if I would use a Mitsubishi mini-split system with 4 indoor units each up in a coffer in the ceiling, I will have to give the order to drill through some of the most exquisite mosaic tile work I have seen. Even though somewhat small (2 in,), it's daunting!--NBC
@ December 5, 2013 8:35 PM in Frozen radiator valveCan you post a picture?
Sometimes the packing nut can be loosened, and that will free the valve stem.
Make sure the fill valve is closed!--NBC
@ December 5, 2013 12:36 PM in Regulating steam valveI have a steam valve with a straight handle on a 1913 Dunham system, which is frozen. I can remove the handle and graduated dial, but do not know what else can be taken apart.
I can soak it in Kroil, or PB blaster, if that would not degrade some old rubber piece inside.
I am sure I saw an engineering drawing of this type of valve in some literature here, but, now I cannot . Can anyone help?--NBC
@ December 5, 2013 11:09 AM in Rotation IndicatorsThese would be perfect imprinted with the heating help logo ....Dan??--NBC
@ December 5, 2013 10:48 AM in Rotation IndicatorsWhat is the use of this?
Doesn't the rotation always follow the arrow on the case?--NBC
@ December 5, 2013 10:40 AM in Got an estimateWinter time is always a bad time to make any changes which are non-emergency.
A drop header, which is mounted reasonably high., and to the back of the boiler, makes a changeout much easier, as the new replacement only needs the two risers, and horizontals reconfigured when the old boiler meets it's maker. There should be a union in one of the verticals between boiler, and header to make that possible. The other great advantage of the drop header, is in its separation from the boiler, so keeping the oily water coming out of the boiler from all returning to the boiler itself. A tee with a valve in the equalizer, slightly below the waterline height, can drain off a couple of inches of junk floating in the equalizer. The oil from the riser, which drains into the boiler itself will eventually end up trapped in the surge column from the skimming port, which can also be drained periodically.
Murphy's law will make your new boiler fail prematurely (graphitic corrosion) if you do not make this accommodation, and conversely, the replacement will outlast the grandchildren of Methuselah if you do!!--NBC
@ December 5, 2013 10:32 AM in fixed the big problem, now what?Leave the rad vents until later, and replace what you have now on the mains with Gorton 2's. You can't over vent mains and you will be more certain of having enough.
Get a 0-3 psi gauge, and put it on next to the pressuretrol, so you can get the pressure maximum down.--NBC
@ December 4, 2013 7:28 PM in Probably a question you are asked alot..Make the steam work with good main venting, and maybe a better thermostat in a better location. Take some pictures of the boiler, and it's piping, and we will have comments.
If you change to hot water, the system sees 20 times the pressure, and will leak. In addition, the radiators may not be large enough to heat with hot water. Some radiators are for steam only.
This system worked well in the beginning, and your job is to fix what changed.--NBC
@ December 4, 2013 5:38 PM in What's the difference between a warm weather shut down and an outdoor resetIf your radiators are heating unevenly, then it needs to be balanced, usually by correcting the main venting. Have you owned this building long? Certainly, when first built, the system was perfectly even. Therefore the task is to return the system to its original state of operation, with low pressure, ample venting, and good thermostatic control with a steam certified thermostat. Is this a 1-pipe, or 2-pipe system?
A sophisticated control will not compensate for these sorts of problems, and may only exaggerate them.
What sort of thermostat are you using, and has it been configured for steam?--NBC
@ December 4, 2013 5:28 PM in fixed the big problem, now what?Eliminate your setback first, and get some Gorton 2's on those main vent locations.
Make sure your gauge is accurate and make sure the pressure is not too high. The pigtail may have become clogged preventing the pressuretrol from doing its job.--NBC
@ December 4, 2013 10:42 AM in BTU MeterIf all the zones, and loops are at the same temperature, then meters for the total flow (like water meters) would enable you to charge fairly.
If you add all the meter readings up every month, and then find the percentage of the total flow for each unit from it's meter, that seems fair to me.
Have you been charging for the heating up to now?
If you see the open windows of wasteful apartments, then outdoor reset could discourage that by lowering the water temperature in relation to the out door temperature.
Alternatively, you could apportion the cost on a square foot basis. --NBC
@ December 4, 2013 10:18 AM in Hidden steam leak between floorsValve off the auto feed and see if the water line drops. Verify the LWCO works first.
Tell us how quickly the water goes.
Afterwards to make sure it isn't the boiler, overfill the boiler and check for leaks there.--NBC
@ December 4, 2013 10:13 AM in Got an estimateSomeone here has recently timed his steam arrival here, and if it could be repeated here, then a benchmark could be made for mr. Estimate.
What about having an energy audit done, to find any air leaks, etc.
In the meantime, I would concentrate on getting your pressure down below 2 psi.--NBC
@ December 4, 2013 6:06 AM in Skimming Weil-McLain EG-55 Steam BoilerFirst locate the skimming port, which you will see identified in the boiler manual (available online)
This should have a valve on it, and basically is used to drain oil off the surface of an elevated waterline. The boiler is filled up to that level, and the water feed vale almost closed but not quite. The skimming valve is opened up with a bucket underneath, so that a trickle of water comes out. Over the space of several sessions of several hours each, the oils will have been cleared form the surface. This a very essential step in the installation of a new boiler.-NBC
@ December 4, 2013 5:59 AM in Got an estimateI see a horizontal return pipe leading to the Hartford loop, which is very close to the height of the waterline. If the pressure rose to high, the waterline in the reruns could rise to the point of trying to fill that line with water;thus starving the boiler of water.
Why not provide a complete description of the characteristic of the boiler based on your observation, including a radiator survey-EDR:
1. Does it heat the pipes quickly with steam?
2. Once steam is rising, does the boiler complete an uninterrupted cycle, until the radiators get hot, without short-cycling?
3. What sort of main venting is on the system, and condition?
Is the waterline constant or fluctuating?
Post the results here.
If it were mine, I would seriously consider repiping, but not during the winter if it could be avoided (no serious symptoms).--NBC