Joined on November 24, 2007
Last Post on December 4, 2013
@ December 4, 2013 7:28 PM in Probably a question you are asked alot..Make the steam work with good main venting, and maybe a better thermostat in a better location. Take some pictures of the boiler, and it's piping, and we will have comments.
If you change to hot water, the system sees 20 times the pressure, and will leak. In addition, the radiators may not be large enough to heat with hot water. Some radiators are for steam only.
This system worked well in the beginning, and your job is to fix what changed.--NBC
@ December 4, 2013 5:38 PM in What's the difference between a warm weather shut down and an outdoor resetIf your radiators are heating unevenly, then it needs to be balanced, usually by correcting the main venting. Have you owned this building long? Certainly, when first built, the system was perfectly even. Therefore the task is to return the system to its original state of operation, with low pressure, ample venting, and good thermostatic control with a steam certified thermostat. Is this a 1-pipe, or 2-pipe system?
A sophisticated control will not compensate for these sorts of problems, and may only exaggerate them.
What sort of thermostat are you using, and has it been configured for steam?--NBC
@ December 4, 2013 5:28 PM in fixed the big problem, now what?Eliminate your setback first, and get some Gorton 2's on those main vent locations.
Make sure your gauge is accurate and make sure the pressure is not too high. The pigtail may have become clogged preventing the pressuretrol from doing its job.--NBC
@ December 4, 2013 10:42 AM in BTU MeterIf all the zones, and loops are at the same temperature, then meters for the total flow (like water meters) would enable you to charge fairly.
If you add all the meter readings up every month, and then find the percentage of the total flow for each unit from it's meter, that seems fair to me.
Have you been charging for the heating up to now?
If you see the open windows of wasteful apartments, then outdoor reset could discourage that by lowering the water temperature in relation to the out door temperature.
Alternatively, you could apportion the cost on a square foot basis. --NBC
@ December 4, 2013 10:18 AM in Hidden steam leak between floorsValve off the auto feed and see if the water line drops. Verify the LWCO works first.
Tell us how quickly the water goes.
Afterwards to make sure it isn't the boiler, overfill the boiler and check for leaks there.--NBC
@ December 4, 2013 10:13 AM in Got an estimateSomeone here has recently timed his steam arrival here, and if it could be repeated here, then a benchmark could be made for mr. Estimate.
What about having an energy audit done, to find any air leaks, etc.
In the meantime, I would concentrate on getting your pressure down below 2 psi.--NBC
@ December 4, 2013 6:06 AM in Skimming Weil-McLain EG-55 Steam BoilerFirst locate the skimming port, which you will see identified in the boiler manual (available online)
This should have a valve on it, and basically is used to drain oil off the surface of an elevated waterline. The boiler is filled up to that level, and the water feed vale almost closed but not quite. The skimming valve is opened up with a bucket underneath, so that a trickle of water comes out. Over the space of several sessions of several hours each, the oils will have been cleared form the surface. This a very essential step in the installation of a new boiler.-NBC
@ December 4, 2013 5:59 AM in Got an estimateI see a horizontal return pipe leading to the Hartford loop, which is very close to the height of the waterline. If the pressure rose to high, the waterline in the reruns could rise to the point of trying to fill that line with water;thus starving the boiler of water.
Why not provide a complete description of the characteristic of the boiler based on your observation, including a radiator survey-EDR:
1. Does it heat the pipes quickly with steam?
2. Once steam is rising, does the boiler complete an uninterrupted cycle, until the radiators get hot, without short-cycling?
3. What sort of main venting is on the system, and condition?
Is the waterline constant or fluctuating?
Post the results here.
If it were mine, I would seriously consider repiping, but not during the winter if it could be avoided (no serious symptoms).--NBC
@ December 3, 2013 10:43 PM in Got an estimateUsing a drop header with the 2risers will make this easier now, and easier later when the boiler actually fails and has to be replaced.--nbc
@ December 3, 2013 10:17 PM in one pipe steam boiler, general questions on new boiler4 psi is too high for your system, and perhaps your pressuretrol needs attention, or replacement. Check your main vents for operation.--nbc
@ December 3, 2013 10:13 PM in New boiler noisesAre there any additives in the boiler? Was the boiler properly cleaned after installation? Could the pressure settings have changed?
Better living through chemistry does not apply to most boilers of our type, unless there is a clear chemical reason for adjusting the local water.--NBC
@ December 3, 2013 10:08 PM in Got an estimateWhat exactly is included in the estimate-replacement, or repiping? Is the boiler leaking?
A knowledgeable steam expert should know by looking at your system, what has been done wrong.
If a replacement, then make sure that you measure the EDR (do a search here), in order to properly size the boiler. If the boiler is not leaking, and is the right size, you could have the supplies repiped with a drop header, which will make the next boiler much easier to install.
We recommend following the boiler piping instructions at a minimum, and someone will have to skim the boiler which can be done by you, to save the installers's valuable time.
It looks like your return should be dropped lower as well.
You can remove the insulation, and then reuse it. Get a good low pressure gauge while you are at it, and plenty of good main vents.--NBC
@ December 3, 2013 10:01 AM in $125.00 for a 6" ell ???This could open up a discussion on the possible merits of welded headers, and how they could be used in a way, which does not damage the boiler block, eg, drop header, and equalizer top only, long runouts from supply risers to header, supported completely by the ceiling, etc--NBC
@ December 3, 2013 9:57 AM in New boiler noisesI had that noise with our old atmospheric boiler, equipped with variable shutters on the burner tubes. Somehow they would get out of adjustment, and the flame would light inside the burner tubes, making a loud roar.
Something may have changed from last year. Are there any new exhaust fans or vented dryers since then?--NBC
@ December 2, 2013 11:13 PM in Carbon Monoxide Issues - HELP!It's ironic that the fire inspector is primarily to blame here, for recommending non approved intake, and exhaust venting.-NBC
@ December 2, 2013 10:37 PM in Trial for ignitionHas he any idea about the repetitious short firing?--NBC
@ December 2, 2013 4:32 PM in Hidden steam leak between floorsIt might be a pipe rubbing against some wood. If it were leaking, then I would expect some signs of moisture by now.--NBC
@ December 2, 2013 4:28 PM in Surging Steam BoilersPictures will be much easier to see, and Rembrandt that things are not always to plan. I don't see an equalizer on your elevation. What pressure is the boiler running at?--NBC
@ December 2, 2013 12:23 PM in 3 unit building, one steam systemCan you post the details on the Landlordstat, as steam systems react to different thermostats in different ways-good and bad. A better choice would be a Honeywell Visionpro thermostat with remote sensor in the cooler part of the top floor. Thus the control unit could be under lock and key accessible only to you.
Definitely, check your main vents, which are probably near the boiler, on the return. For economy, you want maximum main venting, and slower radiator venting, except on the top floor (if they are slower to heat). The goal is to have steam arrive at all radiators on the top floor simultaneously. A low pressure gauge (0-3 PSI) will tell you when you have enough main venting, or if you are paying for extra fuel to squeeeeeze the air out of constipated undersized/inoperative main vents.
These 1-pipe systems can be quiet and economical if properly maintained at ounces of pressure.--NBC
@ December 1, 2013 9:31 PM in troubles with a new installPeerless recommends arm&hammer washing soda, followed by lots of skimming.
I would only put water in it, so you don't have a layer of oily diatomaceous earth insulating the bottom of the boiler from the flame.
Double check your pressure with a low pressure gauge, as the supplied pressuretrols are notoriously inaccurate.--NBC
@ December 1, 2013 9:18 PM in NEW STEAM BOILER IS BANGING! HELP!I don't see any errors in the piping, so perhaps skimming will cure it and very low pressure, as this is a trapless system, which may need orifices to restrict the steam to just that amount the radiator can handle. I can't think of the name for it or you could be reading about it in the library here.
Get him to replace the pipe from pressure relief valve to the floor, so as to prevent any accidents.--NBC
@ December 1, 2013 9:10 PM in Rezeroing 3psi gauge?I think your theory of standing water in the pigtail being a little unbalanced and causing a slight vacuum holds water.--NBC