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Mike M

Mike M

Joined on December 6, 2007

Last Post on November 21, 2013

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Recent Posts

Riello burner

@ November 21, 2013 7:11 PM in OSV and residential Riello F40

The burner is a Riello 40 F5 mounted to a 4 section Pesotti I think SI-26.
Installed originally in 93 and I have no prefilter.  I was thinking of installing one of the wooly filters to remove the rocks and bolders so the Garber didn't have to be changed as often but The OSV on there is made by Sundstrand. To over-ride a Webster you need the special tool they make or a small allen key.  The Sundstrand is so much easier, It has a small red pin you depress to temporarily bypass the OSV.  In an article on another site an author of a magazine article said it used to be called a PRV till Webster started making them and decided to call them an OSV. The unit runs now because I have a clamp on the pin, till I can figure this out.

multiple postings??

@ November 21, 2013 6:19 PM in OSV and residential Riello F40

only two, got lots of views here but no responses

old BAD memories

@ November 20, 2013 6:54 PM in Glowcore

Those are a real head ache. We had a couple that had a similar problem breaking down.  Then found they were installed wrong  They needed TWO large bTacos or grundfos pumps in series on a 1-1/8" main and the indirect  water heater for it needed dual coils 1" I think.  The water must move very fast through the heat exchanger or it will get too hot...But they did have a good tech line.  Thjis was about 15 years ago....The customer said he used one on a pool heater and it worked great, because it had a big load.

OSV and residential Riello F40

@ November 19, 2013 10:10 PM in OSV and residential Riello F40

I recently changed out my oil tank and removed the vinyl covered copper 3/8 line with a 3/8" orange line and a Garber screw on filter after the ball valve and Fire-O Matic . I said what the heck, and installed a 90 degree Sundstrand OSV with the red button on top, instead of the Webster style that requires an Allen wrench to over ride the OSV when required.  I had about 10 gallons in the new tank and all ran fine.  I filled the tank a few days later and the OSV on this gravity fed single pipe system shut down. The OEM said The Riello pump will not pull 3" of vacuum (the required suction to overcome the OSV.  I thought all single stage pumps could pull 6" of vacuum.... They told me I must remove the OSV or convert to a two pipe system, or Tiger loop, or a day tank...Have others run into this problem???   I asked him why it ran with only 10 gallons to which he replied the small amount of oil wasn't enough to close the OSV until the oil level reached enough force to close it.   Your thoughts???? Am I getting yanked around???

shaft seal kaput @ 10 PSI

@ November 19, 2013 9:24 PM in converting a two line system to a single line

you had over 100 PSI...too many specialty tools are  involved, don't even attempt to try it unless you are prepared to learn a lot and spend a lot, and I don't mean just a thousand either, that might get you an efficiency tester and a pump pressure gauge only, still have a long, long way to go... and many hours of learning. If your willing to spend two years at a technical college, its do-able...

nozzle protection

@ November 19, 2013 9:12 PM in ceramic end cone

I remember hearing years ago nozzles can become carbonized from excessive heat too!  If you alter the burner, you are the new manufacturer to get sued when they go after someone and the insurance company is off the hook for the customer because it was ALTERED. 
     If you decide to get the ceremaic end cone, some are a hard ceramic and some just have a semi hardened highly compressed cardboard like substance and you have to hand carve the thing, at least I did, on its inside surface or it cracks and splits.  Make it just lightly snug, don't force it...Good luck.

don't give up!!

@ November 7, 2013 2:17 PM in pumping away PONPC

now you state that with the pump on the return you get only about a 1 # increase in pressure on the outlet side of the pump to the expansion tank and the 5# balance is on the return side so that the water feed trys to feed the pressure drop but in your own words, it can't, because water is still in the pipes. so how would this change anything, you said it cant add water to a system that is full.

getting things clear

@ November 5, 2013 1:09 PM in Rheem High Pressure Trips

If your indoor coil freezes its from a lack of airflow across the coil....If this happens in the winter, you will get a high pressure trip.  The cause if it goes up all of a sudden is the indoor motor has stopped running hense a lack of airflow across the coil AGAIN.  A high pressure trip is 410PSI not 300PSI.We are assuming this is an R22 system.  If your hearing the internal bypass pop, which sounds like a louds swooshing sound, your mechanic didnt connect his gauges to the proper ports if he's reading 300PSI. He should be connected to the discharge line a few inches from the compressor, if he is, and the compressor BYPASS is popping, then the compressor is junk. That shouldn't happen til almost 500PSI.
      Thats a 4 ton unit I think, if it is, the line set is way too small in accordance with the sizes you gave us.  Also Dollars to donuts Its way over charged.  The indoor outlet temp in a heat cycle, should be around the 90-108F area.  Heat pumps dont blow hot air, they blow warm air. Typically indoor temp + 30F.  The crankcase heater is required (it has a reciever tank) unless they are using the start winding to heat the crankcase.
    There is also the possibility of non condenseables in the system.  When this pressure trip occures is it a pressure switch? (read the numbers on it using a mirror to see the back side) this should have the range.  Does it have a manual reset?  a red plunger button between the two wires connected to it?
   As far as a check valve, they DO have one on some ac units in the condenser coil not the compressor, it would be in the unfinned section with a steel ball bearing that can be heard using a magnet to slide it back and forth, it would also be near a small drier I believe if they have one. 
     Did the mechanic purge the system with nitrogen while he was brazing?  If not, as most don't, this could cause black oxidation flakes to jamb up internal things when it is charged. 
     In short, I think you are either overcharged or the indoor fan motor is cutting out for one reason or another...My money is its overcharged...simple fix, Remove a pound at a time and charge it to indoor ambient + 30F (no strip heaters involved) or better yet, use the RUUD/Rheem refrigerant charging scale. Its usually a decal on the door panel. Make sure the insulated line is a MIN of 1/2 wall, 1" prefered. Also heatpumps are not a primary sourse of heat where temps go below 30F. This is sometimes refered to as the balance point. Its efficiency is equal with electric baseboard strip heaters.
Mike
checked your lineset size should be 3/8 and 1-1/8" OD for 30' run or less, and 12#8oz of R22 for 25' Line set

CV joint

@ November 5, 2013 11:55 AM in blower assembly

Some of the large carriers I've done have a CV joint between two shafts.  Your idea of just replacing the whole thing (shaft, bearings, blower wheels, sheave, is definitley the way to go. You wont need alot of that other stuff seeing your going to toss all but the basket housings. Plan on a day doing it. Some of the carrier shafts go large in the middle but are hollow.  Take off the top and take the baskets and all out in one piece, and work on the ground with your Saw-Zall and screw gun.  On the new shaft , the cosmoline can be removed with WD-40 and some rags.  Have new keys for the shaft also. a good staight edge to align the pulley and sheave. Amp the motor when done to make sure your under the nameplate amp draw on the motor, If not, adjust (open/close) the sheave till you are. Use Never Seize on the shaft, especially if your the one to service this equipment in the future.

temps?

@ November 5, 2013 11:34 AM in Baseboards don’t produce heat – replace with Runtal UF Series or SlantFin Multi/Pak 80?

What is the temp of the pipe entering the slant fin vs the temperature leaving the slant fin?   Are the circulators on the supply side?  If not, move them, it cures 90% of the air bound problems.  When the zones were power purged, (we assume they were), was it done one zone at a time??? also...has the pressures been measured on both sides of the pump....lets make sure its really pumping...

pressure

@ November 5, 2013 10:01 AM in pumping away PONPC

as the way you have explained it, the expansion tank serves no purpose.  You could easily use a gate valve here to shut off the tank. Pressure is applied by force of the water.  This force requires directional movement, in this case, from the tank water to the return line water,  higher to lower as Dan states frequently. So tell me if I were to measure the exact weight of water in grains, of a piped system @100F, with the system off, (to include the expansion connected), and start the system up, and the expansion tank pressure applied to the system, then a ball valve between the expansion tank and the return line shut off, then the circulator shut off.  Would the system have an increase in water volume of even 1 grain of water from the expantion tank? If not, how can pressure be applied to the return water without movement? We know pressure MOVES higher to lower.  Now either the the pipes expand out, or the water moves to the lower pressurized area, the return line water cavity, which ever has the least resistance. How ever small the amount is....if the pressures were equal, why wouldn't the 12# pressure in the tank apply its pressure temporarily to the return line with its volume of 12# water verses 6# water displacement till the circulator shut off and then when the circulator shuts off, the water volume in excesss of 12# would re-enter the expansion tank to balance the system when the circulator shuts off.  The increase of pressure on the supply side has to come from somewhere....namely, the return side, and transfers it to the supply side, this transfer of water pressure unbalances the system pressure, and causes movement higher to lower. If the tank is higher it will fill this drop in pressure, in order to do work it requires movement, however small.
 

FLIR

@ November 5, 2013 8:00 AM in Fiber Optics

I would think thermal imaging would be the way to go. Even an endoscopy is limited to about three to 5 feet and those thing can bend themselves...

pressures as I see them

@ November 3, 2013 9:49 AM in pumping away PONPC

attached is a diagram of the pressures I visualize as the pump starts up...

contaminants

@ November 2, 2013 10:20 PM in Knight boiler problems

I think its something getting in the air intake like grass clippings when cutting the grass or the dryer vent pumping lint outside (it can travel a good distance). The just might be dead crispy critter BEES. And never forget about the Kids factor....

contaminants

@ November 2, 2013 10:20 PM in Knight boiler problems

I think its something getting in the air intake like grass clippings when cutting the grass or the dryer vent pumping lint outside (it can travel a good distance). The just might be dead crispy critter BEES. And never forget about the Kids factor....

pumping away PONPC

@ November 2, 2013 7:53 PM in pumping away PONPC

While reading  Classic Hydronics, the PONPC, as noted, I cant visualize (page 58-60). (ie) If the pressure doesnt change there is no flow as has been stated. I wrote down what I see on pressure changes in the tank if I were water where I would go... see attachment) am I missing something. gigven these pressure changes i visualize are small but necessary the Bernoulli effect on water.
Mike
dont know if you can enlarge this enough to see the numbers

Steam air vents

@ December 6, 2007 8:58 PM in Steam vents

I came upon a steam system that spurts water out an air vent with a 30" riser when the condensate pipe (before the F&T) temp falls to about 180-185F. This was a vapor system 16 years ago I'm told. A standard boiler was installed. None of the piping is insulated. The header is about 10" above the top jacket of the unit, the pressuretrol is set to 5PSI with a 2PSI differential, it cuts in and out at 8 and 6 according to the pressure gauge on the boiler. The main riser goes straight up, where it connects to the header it uses the branch of the tee. I thought I read in one of Dans books a common mistake is to be tempted to connect a vent on a two pipe system, and should be avoided. I'm not sure,...The vent is a #75 with a 4PSI fallout pressure. I think its vented in the wrong place. These are fan coil units . The steam goes in the coil, condenses and travels down a 48" leg to a tee with a 30" riser and #75 air vent, it then goes into a Sarco F&T then to a return line. When the line temp of the said condensate line reaches about 185F the airvent falls out and the water spurting starts.... Whats up? I know lots of things were done poorly on this... It seems the one vent on the very end is the only one that does this.