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Empire

Empire

Joined on February 19, 2008

Last Post on February 1, 2014

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Coupling?

@ February 1, 2014 1:30 PM in ironfireman coupling

Add, do you mean a spring coupling for pump?


Mike T.

Reply?

@ February 1, 2014 1:23 PM in pilot relight control or gas valve?

OK your pilot has EVERYTHING to do with this circuit.  If it were poor it would not heat the merc to required temps.  Think before you jump on me.  In my opinion, mercury switch are the worst things ever invented.  The cost is outrageous and reliability is poor.  I have often switched the WR you are looking at to spark ignition w/ new GV, Pilot burner and ICM ignition control mod.  oh, there is also a resistor board that attaches to the GV, and if memory serves I believe it it amplifies the signal to GV and also eliminates short cycle if the pilot ever went out during operation.  

Peace;

Mike T.

MFG. w/ different control

@ February 1, 2014 1:10 PM in York heat pump/auxilliary element heat

To answer you Q;, yes it is going to control stg,1 and 2.  Having said that, on a balmy day when HP is up and running stage 1 will control the HP and stg 2, if the temp continues to drop will initiate your supplemental back up heat ( Same as your Emergency heat). As temps continue to fall, at some point, say,....35* a control, temperature actuated relay (gen. located in condenser) will kill the HP circuit and automatically revert to your supplemental heat as stage #1.  This way the customer has nothing they have to do.  EMG heat switch is nothing more that a way for the customer to switch to the supplemental heat in extreme conditions if they feel there is a problem with the system.  Bear in mind that manufacturers do not all do the same control of this type of system.  So, it's nice to have a wiring diagram to see what they are trying to do, and when.  That is key.  In a perfect world everyone would do the same thing, but that's where an experienced tech. comes in.

Peace;

Mike T.

Molex Plugs....

@ February 1, 2014 9:38 AM in What is it ,really?

You have run into a plug that may or may not have a clean connection.  I am not a fan of molex plugs since I can not be sure that the solid connection is there. Corrosion, broken plastic clips etc... are a pain in the but.  Basically just like a solid state CB, if you check your connection and the circuit you are looking for is not where you need it, or doesn't seem complete the circuit, ya have to replace it.


Peace;

Mike T.

Pilot

@ January 31, 2014 5:17 PM in pilot relight control or gas valve?

Try cleaning the pilot orifice.  this should solve your problem.


Peace;

Mike T.

Wiring

@ January 8, 2014 6:14 AM in Goodman electric furnace

Sounds like the wiring either on the t-stat or a miss wire from when the system was a heat pump.  You need to post a wiring diagram on existing furnace w/ electric heat.  Generally the HP t-stat will use "B" to enable electric relay through a DPDT relay to switch from heat pump to the supplemental heat (your elct. heat) when using Emergency heat selection on t-stat.  "B" wound energize relay... opening the NC contacts through which "Y"/w1 would call for HP and close NO set of contacts to allow w1 to now be controlling the unit as a straight call for heat. 
     As long as w1 calls for heat, the circuit should energize your sequencer which controls blower and elct. heat.  As long as you have a built in sequencer or blower control, the fan is the first thing to come on call for heat and the last thing to shut down.
    Equipment wiring diagrams very from Mnfg. to Mnfg.

I'm a thinking........

@ December 20, 2013 5:32 PM in mr. slim trouble code?

I know I have see this before, but can only offer opinion due to not seeing it from memory.  Could be a possible communication fault between remote and base unit has failed.  Batteries most likely.  Whish I could be more help.  I do believe Mitsubishi has a web site that does offer literature to help you out. 

Peace & Merry Christmas

Mike T.

Video?

@ November 27, 2013 4:28 AM in Got Three Minutes?

Terry there was no post to bring up the video.  Not sure if I have to view in another window or maybe it's missing...

Peace;

Mike T.

HONESTLY Where?

@ November 8, 2013 7:44 PM in pumping away PONPC

Where else can you go in this world now a day's and get sooooooooo many people trying to convey a thought, or theory if you will and have it answered by people that at one point scratched their but's on that same question...?  HeatingHelp.Com that's where!  Thank you Dan for all you do and to give us a forum to help and learn.  
Now.............can anyone help with my nephew inserting a disc shaped cotton candy CD in my Blue Ray?????  lol


Peace gentlemen;

Mike T. 

I Apologise Chris

@ November 8, 2013 7:23 PM in Do you use a flow gauge?

I thought you were referring to an open system.  Never,....with joints under pressure should you braze or solder.  With a 1 or 2 psi, it's not a safety issue just if the fittings are in place and there is a positive pressure, it will tend to push or spit out the filler being used.  Even when I do an entire system there is always an out for inert gas to flow.  The last joint can't be pressurized or it will or could spit out what you just put in.  As long as an open exit for the gas, be it access port, remote fitting, the gas has to be let out.
If you push 50 psi through a system not only is it excessive, but just going to make you mad.........lol  Put the N in and have an exit point.....Done. Just making a point.  It's not technical, it's common sense.


Peace;

Mike T.

Inside is Most important..

@ November 8, 2013 6:54 PM in Do you use a flow gauge?

Nitrogen is the most common gas used if for nothing else than it's cost.  Elimination of O2 is key, not how much pressure.  A gradual flow (if you will) is anything to keep Oxygen out.



Mike T.                       Hey Terry how are Ya?

Hey Don, How have you been?

@ November 8, 2013 6:32 PM in Do you use a flow gauge?

Chris, I will use nitrogen at;...(as long as an open pipe exists) 1.5 to 2.psi depending on pipe diameter with most of the circuit almost complete.  Argon and Nitrogen are both (Inert) gases as specified by periodic table.  If I have, say only a access fitting open and finishing up brazing, I will drop to aprox.5 to 1 psi.  Works for me and hope it helped. 
Edit;  Chemist's classify N as an inert gas because it rarely reacts with other chemicals.  In the same breath, "NO" N can form many other compounds with oxygen present.  So as long as you have Nitrogen flowing through the work you are doing, you should be OK.  Nitrogen much cheaper than Argon.

Good Q:

Peace;

Mike T.

Maybe it's....ME?

@ November 8, 2013 6:24 PM in Phantom circulation in forced hot water

I could not see any details in either the drawing or the picture.  I give you men credit in trying to rectify this obvious problem,..or not obvious... can't tell.  Pump away from the exp tank........save yourself tons. 

P.S. rjb;  I think this sight has Spell cheek..............................................?lol

Peace;

Mike T.

Speyfitter

@ November 8, 2013 6:10 PM in Honeywell T7400 thermostat

I tried to look up the configuration on the T-7400 stat with no luck.  I am assuming the HW T-stat cam w/ the heater.  Do you have the manual?  stupid question or you wouldn't be asking.  sorry.  Is this stat the older version say,...2000 or so?  Thinking about your problem in hindsight, the wiring diagram on the unit itself should tell you what the designations are for the given #'s 1/2/3/4.  Can you post the Wire diagram from the equipment?


Peace;

Mike T.

I will put it in layman's.... term.

@ November 8, 2013 5:39 PM in reversing valve change out on a heat pump

Besides being time consuming the job can be rewarding if it first, doesn't ruin your whole day.  Please do not throw any tools, keep the curse words at a minimum and most important of all if your torch has been on the fittings for a while and the solder refuses to flow do not go to a larger tip size.  RVS's are like a loose tooth on a 4 year old.  Seems easy to remove if only the (child),...RVS would cooperate!!  Nuff Said..  Hey Eugene.

Peace;

Mike T.

Hello Paul;

@ October 29, 2013 8:21 AM in co testing

Bacharach has manuals for procedures in performing a combustion test.  Choose an instrument and inside the article or manual, you can read procedures, placement of probe, and description of what different changes you make and it's effect on your final reading.  I believe Testo has similar literature.

Peace;

Mike T.

In your example you gave.....

@ October 28, 2013 8:32 PM in A FEW TIPS FOR YOU NEWBIES AND OLDIES

Clearly someone did not know what they were doing.  That's what makes us professionals in our craft and we all need refresher literature.    There is a difference between the lack of knowledge and the audacity of "winging it", and the true interest in a persons craft to know and do the job correctly if for nothing else other than pride and workmanship.

Peace;
Mike T.

End switch is probably bad.

@ October 28, 2013 8:13 PM in zone valve problems

There is a micro switch on the valve and they do become corroded and sometimes will not even start the boiler at all.  Change out the power head.  Valve body can stay in place.

Peace'
Mike T.

CO...

@ October 21, 2013 6:31 AM in is it true

Carbon monoxide IS one of the products of combustion.  The goal is to keep it within manfg. specs.  Reducing primary air, results ion an increase on CO.  Incomplete combustion if measured already has a problem and lacking one or more parameters required for complete combustion.  Bacharach has great information as to explain the why and why not's of combustion.  Example; if you achieve excess primary air, your flame will burn cleaner, but loose efficiency.  Please take a look at the web site and it will explain the answers to all your questions.

Peace;

Mike T.

Aahh, ice bad shut down good!

@ October 21, 2013 6:15 AM in dont forget that tower

When I shut down tower, most volute have plugs that I remove and get rid of any standing water especially if it fills the volute, valve etc...

Peace;
Mike T...

Before replacing every thing,

@ October 21, 2013 6:11 AM in old rheem furnace

You need to check your pilot flame signal...  Also find out where your voltage to the GV is dropping out.  Pressure switch may be at fault.

Peace;
Mike T.

Did unit fire up and no Blower?

@ October 11, 2013 6:39 AM in Hot Dawg!, Modane unit heater

If so, sounds like the board is not timing out to bring on blower.  It should be fused, but it would not fire if so. 

Peace;
Mike T.
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