Empire
Joined on February 19, 2008
Last Post on April 21, 2013
Recent Posts
Generally?
@ April 13, 2012 7:40 PM in furnace door switches
The switch itself is a snap action switch and is either engaged or not engaged. it's like a light switch, on or off. I find it's easier to tape, bypass or what ever so I don't have to use my knee to accomplish this task. I'm getten old and not as acrobatic as I used to be....:-)Mike T.
Hey Tim?
@ April 13, 2012 7:13 PM in gas line size? and how to determine size.help tim plz
National Fuel used to put out a slide rule, or it's actually a dial rule to make quick calculations with all different variables. Have you seen it? and/ or do you know if it's still available? The 1 I have is faded and hard to read...Peace
Mike T.
Hi Don, It's been a while........How U been?
@ April 13, 2012 7:07 PM in warranty compressor replacement
Seems like all of the honest contractors/service/install tec's are stating the very same analogy. I can only state to each customer that I refuse to take short cuts, I solve the problem, and ensure complete, safe operation and how to prevent it from happening again, AND also tell them why the problem occurred. If our price is too high, I can always have the person who cuts my hair take a look at it! "She's a lot cheaper"! She cuts out the middle man..............? Just kidding, but thought I'd make somebody smile.......Peace
Mike T.
Owen
@ April 13, 2012 6:41 PM in Direct Digital Controls
You are looking at the most up to date DDC/VAV controlled System on the market. Watts is one of the major players ( not the only) and pretty much produces the majority of the controls/ actuators, and software programs. I don't know if this makes sense, but it's like Maxitrol products. The product line itself covers a wide variety of systems, but are designed and implemented to a specific application. Bottom line, ( it looks more complicated than it is ) It serves each application and it helps if you were the installing contractor like you said.Yea,....It can be a pain in the butt. I to believe that you, me, or anyone else can come up with a Zone control system to basically do the same thing or better, unfortunately we didn't. Every system I look at, I have to study the plan, application etc.. in order to NOT wast time, but It takes time to acquire the job your on. You are not alone, but I guess for now it seems like so-and so has the customers confidence. One thing I do know, (and I don't know everything...lol) just to find what seems to be a minor problem can take hours! I can get frustrated very quickly because I want to know and solve the problem in 15 minutes...............I'm sure you feel the same.
Peace!
Mike T.
As a general rule
@ March 30, 2012 11:24 AM in re using r22
I will always introduce new refrigerant that I KNOW is contaminant free,Especially when using new equipment. Manufacturers will void warranty is they find out that new Virgin ref. was not used. With new Ref. you know it is free of moisture, contaminants, etc... You never know who worked on the system last.Mike T.
Suggestion
@ March 30, 2012 1:34 AM in Honeywell HE-300 Humidifier problems...
April air is too small for your 3000sq/ft. You'd be better off with the 600M bypass humidifier.Mike T.
Paul
@ March 14, 2012 8:01 AM in converting to 410a
I did not catch any condescending remarks from first responder. Did I miss something? I know all of us respectfully try to answer any question. I think he stated to consult manftr. to see what their procedures are. I know I do if I have a Q:?Mike T.
15 sec
@ March 12, 2012 7:54 PM in ric
What is your manifold gas pressure? 15 sec, then what? Does the ignition mod blink any code? Give some info and readings. Not just lights then goes out. Could be a million things.Honeywell Humidifiers
@ March 11, 2012 8:28 PM in Honeywell HE-300 Humidifier problems...
There is no easy response to your Q;, but I would call Honeywell and ask to talk to humidification design engineer. They can point you towards literature that can answer most of your questions. Now, having said that, each unit model # is rated to add humidity to the envelope at a given rate of water flow over time. There are countless variables in play that are constantly changing, effecting the absorption of water vapor into the air. Evaporative humidification (which most buildings use) is not something that is done over the course of an hour or 2. Days and weeks are where the effectiveness is measured. "Heat is the train on which water vapor or humidity rides". Warmer air is able to hold more moisture than cooler air. Generally during the cold days of winter, it is not unlikely to see RH% at 12 to 20% RH. Homes that have means to humidify the air can expect to see 45% to 55% RH during normal operation inside the envelope.Example: 10,000 cu/ft of air at 70*f will hold 10.95 pints of water,... No more. This means the air in a home 25 x 50' with 8' ceilings (10,000 sq/ft) could hold nearly 11 pints of water when the temp inside is 70*f. This would represent 100% RH conditions. If there is only 2 pints of water in the same home at 70*f,. the relative humidity would be 2/11 or 18% RH. Quoted from Audel library.
I am merely trying to give you some idea of what and how the humidity is measured and at what conditions it will exist. As far as modulation of water due to waste, I would be more concerned with the full output of the humidifier. 17 gal per day does not seem like a waste to me. I hope this helped a little bit. Remember it takes time to accomplish humidification in the home using evaporative humidification.
Mike T.
I get a chuckle........
@ February 14, 2012 6:47 AM in No Rebate? Require Manual J & Manual S Worksheets
Remodeling, Heating and Air Conditioning.???? I would love to remodel my own house and others, but I am so busy with HVAC, keeping up to date on new technology, designing systems, service repair, schooling, performing load calc, Maintaining equipment etc... Mr. Smith, after I change out your A/C system I can clean out your gutters and also paint your living room if I have time....Just sounds weird to me.....
Mike T.
Another check
@ February 14, 2012 6:23 AM in carrier furnace lock-out
Good call Victoria Energy. Also, take a look for any bows in the exhause that may have a build up of water from condensate. I have seen this only once or twice, but take a look and make sure pitch is back to the furnace.My .02
Mike T.
Cheap, Cheap, and Cheap....
@ February 13, 2012 7:35 PM in Simple outdoor reset
If you really want to go super cheap, get a snap action t-stat for about $9.00 and wire it into your burner circuit, set to aprox 40*f. Beware of outside weather affecting the t-stat. Also, if your existing t-stat in the conditioned space has an anticipator you will smoke it, so wire it so that it will not interfere with operation.Mike T.
Careful!
@ February 7, 2012 7:57 AM in Renyolds Gas Regulator Leak?
This is the perfect time to call a professional... Regulators either work or are discarded. The very fact that the gas pressure seems high (in your opinion) should set off bells and whistles. A complete safety inspection is in order and should be done. This has the potential to hurt or kill someone. Not worth it!. Small regulators are generally sealed at the factory and are non serviceable. I have a Q:? the perssure seems high, what was the gas pressure reading on your meter? If you dont have one or are not qualified to administer this test, STOP!. I'd feel better if you take the time and have it checked out.My .02
Mike T.
A Thought on your Furnace.
@ February 2, 2012 7:07 AM in Gas flame oscillating
Pop off the screw cover to the gas valve adjustment regulator. Fire and see if there is a difference...My .02
Mike T.
I'm currious....
@ January 26, 2012 7:28 AM in LP gas valve
The orifices on the manifold should not be bubbling when soaped as you know. The Q: is why? I wonder if somehow damage to the diaphragm on the GV is occurring somehow at some point? I know it's not in your site, waiting to see what you find....From the outside tanks I look for 12:wc to the house, 10.5 fire rate on furnace. Has anyone checked to see if the spring for GV reg. is actually Propane???Mike T.
NStino
@ January 26, 2012 7:09 AM in Dual zone: Zone 2 only works when Zone 1 is running
It's so nice when someone such as yourself responds back and offers updates. Often times, we never even hear any reply and it's almost like the questioner vanished. I thank you an behalf of HeatingHelp.Com. I know the personnel here work hard and use their own time to simply help others with response to questions. The founder of this site Dan H. set up this help site for just that purpose.Thank You;
Mike T.
Tim
@ January 25, 2012 9:05 AM in Burner output at various gas pressures....
I to have the slide calculator and it's a great tool. Used it many times.Mike T.
Zone problems
@ January 25, 2012 9:01 AM in Dual zone: Zone 2 only works when Zone 1 is running
If I am correct, you have a warm air heat and cool system? If in fact it is zoned, there are quite a few manufacturer products available. It could be anything including but not limited to: Since most dampers are power closed:-Failed relay, Disconnected wire, bad damper linkage, Etc...
Almost sounds like zone #2 is always open and only gets conditioned air when zone 1 calls. Definitely needs to be looked at. Ask your maintenance dept if they installed it. If not, call professional. This is not a guessing game.
Hope this helped.
Mike T.
Several to choose from.
@ January 23, 2012 7:45 AM in Automatic dialing for boiler
Google Auto-Dialing and check out several stand alone systems to suit your needs.Mike T.
It's a typical ORC control.
@ January 17, 2012 4:11 PM in Tekmar 400 series
This control you will like. Offers ORC out door reset control for your boiler with Priority DHW if so desired. Incorporates the use of zoning with zone valves or switch to pump control with the addition of isolation relays to activate pumps. User selectable set points and minimum water temp control. Google Tekmar controls and you can find literature to answer all of your questions.Mike T.
"Anything is possible"
@ January 13, 2012 11:36 PM in Converting antique oil furnace to gas
I to can appreciate your love for original character of the house kind of thinking, But,......I cannot seem to make the correlation between the cost of fuel oil, the actual conversion, and nostalgia. If this particular heating application was some kind of incredible technology back in the day, I could see "keeping her afloat".At best, the efficiency of the existing equipment is roughly 40 to 45%. Having said that, I think you would love nothing more than to save some money since you are concerned about the current cost of fuel. Only you can weigh the cost of "modernizing" your old furnace. There is only one problem,...The cost to save the look you seek will surely require real modern money.
I would up date the equipment just for the sake of having the piece of mind that it will work and not cost you an arm and a leg.
My .02
Mike T.
20 plus years old?
@ December 19, 2011 8:15 AM in Gas Furnace help
I'd be willing to bet your furnace is 20 + years or older. What it sounds like, is the old style "Baso" pilot safety. The pilot burner needs to be cleaned which in turn will provide a stronger pilot flame to t-couple. This should be done by a professional as is can be tricky to access........Mike T.
