Joined on February 19, 2008
Last Post on April 21, 2013
@ November 13, 2011 12:14 PM in Dunkirk Q95M-200 Ignition ProblemJust a couple of thoughts. Try to remove the intake vent and see if that helps to smooth out the ignition. What was your manifold gas pressure?
@ November 12, 2011 3:42 PM in tjernlund power vent uc1 controlBy the time I look all these numbers up, I could have flown there and did it myself. No disrespect, but this is a topic that must be done correctly,....injury or death can result. All manufacturers have their own ways to wire something, but play it safe and do the right thing. It will give you the piece of mind that we all need.
@ November 12, 2011 3:30 PM in Unico fan questionThe last time I installed a Unico Air Handler, There was a TD for the blower. Not sure if this applies to other models, but everything should be in the manual or wiring manual. You stated that it stops by someone banging on the unit or something to that affect. Let us know what you find.......
@ November 7, 2011 11:03 AM in No Rebate? Require Manual J & Manual S WorksheetsNot sure what you are really looking for but I know John and I have been inn the industry for a while. Both HVAC guy's. Your contractor should be helping you apply and receive these said rebates. If there is a new rebate in your area, Your contractor should be aware of it and willing to give you the info you require.
@ November 5, 2011 7:19 PM in HVAC incorporates steam coilI think that posting this topic in the Strictly Steam heat category may yield quicker response. "Stem head is a "WIZ" at these specifications. No quick answer can I respond to as this is why I direct you to above. You are in the right place though. Being the weekend, I'm sure even someone here could answer you question better than I.
@ November 3, 2011 8:22 AM in No Rebate? Require Manual J & Manual S WorksheetsI to have not heard of requirements like you stated. Even if required, how would the rebate providers know it was accurate and not just fill in the blanks. Man."J" can be provided by most contractors and I would think on line. It's always good to plot your home to see the potential Heat loss and Gain.
Try to resend the rebate and have your contractor sign off on it. Q: Dear Mr. Rebate: The heat loss/gain tells you the furnace is way over sized and you declined my rebates. Did you know I am adding 1500 sq/ft in Spring? Who are they to even decide this product rebate?
Here in lies the problem.
@ November 2, 2011 5:13 PM in Gas boiler burner flame too big/yellowIf it has not been services in a while, I would guess that the furnace needs to be cleaned. Over time debrise and the by products of combustion needs to be cleaned. This is a job for the professional.
@ October 16, 2011 9:40 AM in Gas pressureI like to keep the pressure into the house at 12"wc. Seems like you are border line and when operating everything, you may experience blow back. This is only my rule of thumb and I like to go with the manufacturer specs call for. There will be a pressure drop depending on what was installed as far a pipe size goes.
@ October 14, 2011 6:41 PM in Open system Zone ValvesDo you have any idea what your differential shut off pressure is? This will determine if the valve will close while working against this pressure. I had a similar problem many years ago and installed a "Watter Hammer arrestor" I think..... The original noise was most noticeable on closing of the valve. This was on a loop pump that had a pump always running, so hoping this may help.
Is it possible to control the velocity of the water? Can you regulate the pump,increase line size?
Interesting. Trying to get a visual on what you have.
@ October 14, 2011 5:49 PM in Clear Plastic in Liquid lineSounds like part of the plastic bag that the restrictor came in. Definitely back purge the evap coil and like stated above,.....See what comes out. Bits and pieces could be anywhere. If I'm not mistaken, oil and the heat generated by the compressor will degrade the plastic and may be quite difficult to get out.
@ September 28, 2011 4:47 AM in cooling tower pipingI believe the bypass you seek is for winter operation and is not actually a bypass at all. Some if not most "change over procedures" require the draining of the tower, the piping above roof line and water feed to tower due to possible freezing conditions. The tower loop in question usually has accessible areas in mechanical room to Isolate the tower loop for winter operation and easily put back into summer operation. One word,....Make sure that if tower pumps are exposed to the elements, drain that puppy or the cast will crack like a cracker.........:-)
@ September 17, 2011 12:14 PM in A\C stops working when cool outsidePoint taken and like I said, it was more of a general thought, not meant to even imply your capabilities. Anyways I won't lose any sleep tonight. The problem you stated is relatively straight forward so good luck with it. I know a lot or techs that attack the problem from many different angles. There is no wrong way.
@ September 16, 2011 5:17 AM in A\C stops working when cool outsideThis is a classic example of a service call where the customer explains all that he observes and looks for advice on possible problems as to why the A/C does not work properly. This is where we earn our money in this industry by experience and measurable figures so we can identify and correct the problem. Remember we charge only a dollar to come to your house, and the rest of the total charge is because we knew where to look, what to test and how to repair the problem. What a great value. We even guarantee our work. Since there are no facts other than "it's warm" I'll bet you a dollar that it's one of 20 possible problems. Now that's a craps shoot.
In all seriousness, call a pro or try to give more information. People who know me know I don't mean to be disrespectful.
@ September 16, 2011 3:01 AM in intertherm furnaceIn addition to Tims comment, please do not try to fix it yourself. This is potentially a deadly problem that needs to be identified. Do not jump out any safety switches even for temporary heat!
@ September 16, 2011 2:55 AM in How would youDoing well Terry, trying to stay busy. I guess this is one of those scenarios in that you have to be there to actually see what they have, load requirements, product or space to be maintained at a given temp. Sorry, I have no quick answer, but you are on the right track. I to provide a customer with research to back up my plan of action in the presentation.
Keep me posted as to your progress and final set up of your plan. Good luck and remember you and I know the right place to go with questions or opinions,....."The Wall" of course
@ September 15, 2011 5:38 AM in How would youThere could be a number of options depending on how it was designed. Are they using half of the 15 ton and 2 or 3 30 ton to control load? Maybe they are Controlling using Lead /Lag scenario. There is some major power consumption happening and I'm sure they try to keep it to a minimum.
Just some thoughts
@ September 8, 2011 5:41 AM in Flooded AppliancesNatural gas regulators work on the principal if the differential of atmospheric pressure on the bellows or diaphragm, which is a thin membrane and the spring tension that is applied to the assembly. Just add a little water and it WILL NOT WORK as designed!. Look at Maxitrol sites or any dedicated regulator manufacturer and you will find that any contamination call for replacement if the Combination valve in your case or a dedicated step regulator. Notice that almost all adjustment screws for valves have a tiny pin hole in the screw head. This is to alleviate air that builds up atop the diaphragm. If air is trapped and cannot be relieved, the bellows or diaphragm cannot properly self adjust to accommodate the flow of the gas.
I personally would not take the chance of putting back into service any valve or regulator that has been saturated with, water, Ice, or any liquid which can alter the operation of the part.
Just an opinion. Consult you local gas supplier and they will tell you the same.
@ September 3, 2011 9:27 PM in Hot yoga studio heat sourceSolve all of your problems with a MUA unit. Although the temps are rather outside of the box, you can at least cover your heat and fresh air issues. As far a latent concerns, I'd be more concerned with Sensible load since The environment is what you will address with or with out bodies.
What area of the country?
Are you actually going to try to dehumidify this space?
Unfortunately the bank you don't want to break, is best served with the proper equipment. That will up the price.
If they want to maintain this 104*f space temp, I would think the 40%F/A should take care of your cooling needs since it should never be called for.......at these temps.
Interesting scenario, but keep us posted as to what your thoughts are and any concerns. I did not read anything about RH% in the structure
@ August 26, 2011 8:04 AM in Pulling down a system help..,I think it's time for new hoses Terry....lol I cannot even tell what color they are any more..
@ August 15, 2011 9:09 PM in Boiler Manifold PressureSomething is wrong with that number. Chances are there is a decimal point somewhere in that #. 3 to 5 will blow out that regulator on the boiler.
What do ya think Tim?
@ August 10, 2011 6:39 PM in Air handler sizingI do REPENT to the fullest extent of "THE WALL"
@ August 10, 2011 6:32 PM in Condenser Fan Motors and BladesI do have the pitch gauge and it has not been crushed or damaged while ridding around in the back shelf of the truck. I'm not sure how this happens, but I think it's Divine intervention........;-) Everything else in the back that shakes, rattles and rolls seem to get dinged up....Go figure.
Things been well in Buffalo, been the hottest summer is recent memory.