Heating Help

Temp Rating

@ September 16, 2005 8:42 AM in Thread Leak in Cast Iron to Bronze Valve

I noticed the Rectoseal #5 was rated for 125*F, do you guys still use this for hot water boiler systems? Neil

@ September 15, 2005 10:20 AM in Radiator Below Mono-flow line

Bob: How in the world did the original fill of this system took place with this radiator below the line and no valve/bleeder in line? How come it was done back then and have to be modified to work now? Bob, I cant see how the water will flow thru the radiator with the valve closed off (located after the return T as you suggested) and no where to go or vent, if you do open the bleeder, the circulation will take the path of least resistance and go thru the trunk. Am I missing something, thanks for your all your help, much appreciated. Neil

Valve and T

@ September 15, 2005 9:37 AM in Radiator Below Mono-flow line

Bob: So between the 2 risers/mono-T install a valve(thus forcing the water thru the radiator) and then install a T with a bleed valve where? Neil

Bleed ....

@ September 15, 2005 8:43 AM in Radiator Below Mono-flow line

Bob: I was thinking of installing a valve between the riser and thus forcing the water to move thru the radiator, then re-open. Is this what you have in mind? Neil

Dan

@ September 14, 2005 1:59 PM in Thread Leak in Cast Iron to Bronze Valve

> This year I replaced a lot of my radiator valves
> and had trouble with leaks. After trying tapes
> and different dopes and tightening fittings till
> they almost broke I started using a product
> called "Permatex" its a non hardening gasket
> material widely used in automotive applications.
> It has excellant chemical resistance as well
> thermal properties. Steam pipe and other
> applications are called out on the uses listed on
> the packaging. I have never had a leak using it
> and dont seam to have to overtighten the fittings
> either

Kevin

@ September 14, 2005 1:19 PM in Thread Leak in Cast Iron to Bronze Valve

I saw in the local Pep Boys all the Permatex products, but am confuse if to use the gasket maker or gasket sealer? Neil

Any Suggestion?

@ September 14, 2005 10:46 AM in Radiator Below Mono-flow line

Just bumping this up for any last resort suggestions. Thanks, Neil

Permatex

@ September 13, 2005 1:15 PM in Thread Leak in Cast Iron to Bronze Valve

Kevin: The Permatex product, do you use the pipe joint compound or the gasket sealer? Thanks, Neil

No Valve

@ September 12, 2005 9:26 AM in Radiator Below Mono-flow line

No valve in between the radiator, so cant close this off and force the water thru the radiator. I can add a valve, but I am sure over the last 50 yrs of this house, at sometime this was done and the air went away eventually? I am running the circ on/off over the next few days, will see if I get rid of the air, if not, cut the main line and install a valve. Neil

Flow Problem- Mono Flow System

@ September 12, 2005 8:58 AM in Radiator Below Mono-flow line

I have a hot water mono-flow heating system. I was replacing the valve on one of the convectors. This convector is below the mono-flow main line. I replaced the valve, and now when I fill the system (bleed etc) there is no circulation in this one convector. There is a bleed valve that I opened, no air, seems like air is trapped on the return leg going back up to the main line. Any suggestions? Thanks, Neil

Where Can a HO

@ March 31, 2005 9:39 AM in Today we saved a life...........

Purchase the above CO detector? I am in LI, NY. Neil

with constant circulation

@ March 30, 2005 4:15 PM in Tekmar 260

or lets say >85% circulation, at any given time, would the supply and return temp be the same or very close? For eg. Say the supply temp (boiler target) is 150* and the boiler is off, but STAT is calling for heat and circulator is on, 15 mins later supply temp is at 135*, because the water has been circulating for the pass 15 mins, I would guess that the supply and return would be at 135*, would it? Therefore when the control fires the boiler at say 135*, the return temp is already at 135* and there for no condensation problem? Am I correct? Neil

Manifold pressure

@ March 21, 2005 3:05 PM in So Boiler is Oversize, What are my Options?

Throttle back the gas?

Boiler

@ March 15, 2005 9:00 AM in So Boiler is Oversize, What are my Options?

MAD DOG: Before July last year I was a renter, so had no interest in boiler etc, then I bought my house and did some background, had 5 companies in, went with the guy with good ref, middle price and made me feel comfortable here in LI. After which I found out when they wired the Tekmar 256 it was wired so when the boiler fire, only then would the circulator turn on. I rewire that and all is well. Prior to the bids, I was not aware of heatloss and load etc and most of all of this site. I started to educate myself after the fact becuase I wanted to know more about the system. The company is a midsize here on the Island, the job was neat, the guys are friendly, but now I see they all lack the skill that should have been incorpoarted into my system. I fugure they are the pros, they would do what they know best and give me options. Neil

Tekmar

@ March 15, 2005 8:53 AM in So Boiler is Oversize, What are my Options?

Model 256, I have 2 zones, the large zone is for the entire house and the small zone is for the basement. Neil

Buffer Tank

@ March 14, 2005 1:10 PM in So Boiler is Oversize, What are my Options?

I can see how that will work, essentially making the water volume on the boiler end larger. Could anyone direct me to any links that illustrate this some more? That would alos have to be an insulated buffer tank eh? Neil

Don

@ March 14, 2005 10:24 AM in So Boiler is Oversize, What are my Options?

Thanks for your input, the 50g DHW tank is new with the boiler only 6 mths old, so thats out. Have a Tekmar outdoor reset, so thats in place, so I should be somewhat ok eh? Well the more kids (actually non so far) will affect only hot water and thats separate already. Thanks for your feedback, Neil

Boiler Over Size as Follows:

@ March 14, 2005 8:56 AM in So Boiler is Oversize, What are my Options?

Have a Burnham Series 2 130KBTU unit (104 net), gas. Heat loss calculated yield 71KBTU needed, with 95% on the information being accurate and on the conservative side. Based on my therms/degree days from Oct 04 to Feb 05, and a design day of 10*F. I used the calculation found on the wall here to figure out my boiler size should be 77-79KBTU (that included the 80% eff) Cycles: ON=3 mins OFF=7 mins So it looks like I can heat my house down to 10*F with an 80KBTU boiler. What are my options,if any, to use my boiler as best as I can? I have a separate 50g tank for my DHW. Neil

Bedroom Over Garage

@ March 11, 2005 2:28 PM in how to choose the most efficient oil boiler for a large home

Winston: My master bedroom is over my 2 car garage without insulation, however, I have carpet in the room which helps, but for the days that dip in the single digits, the room floor would get cold. My solutiuon was to insulate the garage ceiling with R25, cost at Home depot was: $300 bucks and took about 2 hrs to complete and made the world of difference!! The pros will step up with solutions for your boiler, if you do know your monthly oil usage and degree days for your area you can calculate your boiler size as I am sure someone will suggest along with a heatloss calculation. Good Luck, Neil

Glenn

@ March 10, 2005 12:11 PM in Paging Mike @ Tekmar

Thanks for bringng our off line email to this post, as Soot seeker is in the same boat as myself and both of us are trying to balance our system. Always appreciate your input. Personally I think all boilers should operate like the Revolution or Revolution II boilers. Had I known this info I would have upgraded. I will measure my return temp and see where my delta is and program the 256 accordingly to balance efficiency and protection of the boiler. Boy of boy this is whole world by itself, had I left my system up to the company that installed it I wouuld be paying $500/mth in gas and have a 50% efficiency heating system :( and a rusted out boiler in 5-10 yrs maybe. Glenn, what volume of air is needed for combustion, I am in the process of insulating my basement and replacing windows etc, do I need to make any provision for air intake to the boiler? Glenn and Mike, thanks for helping out a couple of ole homeowners here. Neil

@ March 10, 2005 10:01 AM in Paging Mike @ Tekmar

SS: I see you're looking for hi-output BB, go to this web site: http://www.2haydon.com/baseboard.html look at the hi-output 958, which puts out 850 btu/hr per ft compare to 550 for regular BB. And I like the idea of stacking them as one poster pointed out in the Wall with the hand drawing. Supply house: Victoria Plumbing in Mineola: 516-741-4343 ,ask for Mike very helpful Patriot Supply in Plainview: 516-249-3100 Both of them carry the Haydon BB. Neil

My Stuff

@ March 10, 2005 9:43 AM in Paging Mike @ Tekmar

SS: Thanks for the info on your system: Now for mine. I have a split level ranch with 90% convectors (man no BB cant beat them) and 10% BB which I am replacing after the winter with Hi-output BB which will give me approx 50-60% more heat output. House was design on convectors in 1955, as they update, they replaced 3 convectors with BB. Bought the house last July. Monoflow system, and gas :), converted from oil to gas when I moved in and have a new Burnham Series 2 boiler 130k BTU. 256 settings: Design is at 10*. min is at 145, boiler design is at 185*. ROOM is at 68, this pretty much keeps anything from 29* and greater outside at my 145* min. At the low 17* outside, I am now running 3 mins on and 5 mins off. what duty cycle is that: 38% or 62% duty cycle? Do you have any sec/pri piping? I dont, I have low mass return water, and I think this is ok for me so far. You are correct when you say our design day should be around 10*, at times can go lower but that is very rare. Insulation: I now have R44 in the attic, the walls have suffiecint I think, didnt feel cold when we went down to 17*, so I assume they upgraded from 1955 :) I have new windows and doors and I hit every corner to reduced drafts including outlets. Garage ceiling which the MST bedroom is over will get R25 in the summer. I am in the process of replacing the 1955 wood windows in the basment and insulating the walls with R13. So the first floor should be warmer next winter if I keep the basement at say 72* Neil