The Steam Whisperer (Formerly Boilerpro)
Joined on May 25, 2008
Last Post on December 18, 2013
@ December 18, 2013 7:11 AM in Sizing Hidden radiatorsIf they are actually 162 EDR @ 70 air temp, I would expect the output would be much higher if they are heating -10F outdoor air......something I suppose I need to watch out for.
@ December 17, 2013 6:05 AM in Sizing Hidden radiatorsI have a couple that the numbers just don't seem right. A 6 x27 horizontal duct feeds the radiator, the ductwork at the radiator is 36 x 32. The steam supply is 1 inch with a 3/4 inch Moline (orificed) supply valve. Using the cold flue size I come up with 162 EDR.....sounds like way too much. Any Ideas?
@ October 6, 2013 8:42 AM in Short cycling steam boilerIf you have a digital thermostat and are in the US, they are set up for forced air from the factory. The internal settings need to be adjusted for a steam system. Not all electronic thermostats can be used for steam, and there are some that try to lump hot water and steam together....also not a good idea. If you have an older thermostat, the anticipator may need adjustment or is burnt out.
@ August 6, 2013 8:34 PM in What is the Heat loss for copper pipe.....
@ August 6, 2013 8:19 PM in What is the Heat loss for copper pipe....at steam temp. with 70F air? I need it for 3/4 and 1 inch. The engineering toolbox only goes to about 180 F.
@ July 28, 2013 6:29 PM in Water conservation and old toiletsHand wash water should get added after each flush, as do daily showers/baths. If this becomes a problem, I would think it may be bigger in commercial applications where there is not additional flow from other sources. We have a 6 inch clay line to the street, which, with Chicago's combined waste/ storm water sewer probably will be an advantage. We'll be lining the main sewer soon too.
@ July 26, 2013 8:47 PM in Water conservation and old toiletsI know this is plumbing, but I thought more folks might see this. I have always been into conservation, not the extreme kind, but were you can live a normal life. I've got our original 1903 or so toilet (wall hung tank), down to under 2 gallons per flush and....it works just fine. I really don't know why the American toilet manufacturers have made such a fuss over 1.6 gallon toilets...I can approach that standard with 110 year old technology. One thing I did learn is that the typical toilet flush valve puts way too much refill water into the bowl after the flush. I you want to easily cut your water use, partially plug the rubber fill tube (a piece of #10 or 12 wire will do). Right now I am putting nothing in and the water level is low, but the trap is well sealed. If I add another 1 qt of water the bowl is full, 2 cups is probably plenty. So I need at most 2.2 gallons to make a 110 year old toilet flush just fine. The tank has 3 bricks in it, a 1 gallon jug of water and some rocks to reduce the tank volume. I also lowered the water level some ( and cut the overflow to keep the required clearance) , but have tried to keep the water level high for more forceful flushing.
I've also been working on boosting our vehicles mileage. I've got our 93 Tracer (Escort) wagon consistently pulling 33 to 34 mpg at 65 to 70 mph highway speeds with about 800 lbs load. On the open highway with no traffic jams, but 800 lbs load we are close to 38 mpg. It's only rated at 30 by the new EPA standards. A few simple mechanical and aero changes made a big difference, and I have a few more items to do that I expect to see significant gains. Now to do something about the BEAST (2001 Ford E250).
Just a few words of encouragement to those that like to tinker a little to make things better. It doesn't seem to take much to greatly improve on what is mass produced.
@ July 26, 2013 1:22 PM in Plumber oversizing boiler?You don't have to pull out your steam to get even heat and zoning. Steam can be easily set up for room by room control to be very comfortable heat....without the huge expense of changing out the system. You'll also see very high efficiency at the boiler.....remember steam uses almost no electricity, where hot water uses quite a bit. You can't go by AFUE numbers to find out overall energy use.
@ July 26, 2013 9:20 AM in skimming T installationlook inside the casting and make sure the bottom of the tee is above the bottom of the section nipples. I know it is not on Dunkirks and it may not be on yours. If it isn't,you need to use a bush or reducing tee to move it up so you can skim all the sections. This is one of those places where the manufacturer's directions are often wrong.
@ July 26, 2013 9:16 AM in Sweating for our Moneybut I know what you mean. It's the race to the bottom installers.
@ July 25, 2013 9:24 AM in diverter teeof two boilers. You could zone the system and still use one boiler and then bill each tenant accordingly. Chicago now requires building owners to give information about utilities cost to potential renters so they can compare rents of units that include heat with ones that don't. The centrally heated buildings are nearly always going to be cheaper overall.
@ July 24, 2013 9:03 AM in Sweating for our MoneyThere seem to be some other things missing from their manuals....like the requirement for threaded fittings on the header. It is shown in the diagrams, but never called out.
@ July 20, 2013 9:01 AM in Sweating for our MoneyThe models that sit on a combustion chamber box can move around a little easier. This is probably why I see the cheap little Weil McLain CG boilers greatly outlast the EG units. I haven't seen this problem with the Peerless 61, 62, 63, 64 series, though there are not as many out there.
@ July 19, 2013 10:24 PM in Sweating for our Moneyyou may already know. The eg/egh boilers tend to develop cracks at the top of the legs due to legs flexing as the boilers expand and contract. A few metal shims under the legs to allow the legs to move will probably improve the rather short life of these boilers. Of course the little unit you've got there probably won't see much of this stress.
@ June 23, 2013 3:36 PM in what is all this extra stuff?that "putty" looking stuff is furnace cement to seal the clean out plate ( the piece of metal with an arch top) in place. This is normal on all older and many newer boilers.
@ June 20, 2013 9:32 PM in Steam Assoc Planning Meeting...June 21, ChicagoJust had 4 more sign up today and last night. We've got some of the best and brightest in the industry arriving here in Chicago and a number of home grown. Frank and I will probably be at RSES around 11:00.
@ June 14, 2013 10:03 AM in NEED User/Owners Manual for Old American Standard Boilerso you're in Chicago. I don't do much Hot water anymore ( almost all steam), but if it is Dornbos, then you're probably nearby and I do some hot water work locally. If you want it inspected, just give me a call. American Standard was probably about the best cast iron boiler built. I just looked at a steam twin to that boiler, and its still sound. I suspect its efficiency is right up there with comparable new atmospheric models, but there are more efficient options these days. I've combustion tested smaller American Standards of that era and most test out right near 80%,...the same as recent current models of that design.
@ June 13, 2013 1:10 PM in SHEMA trap ratingsSo the SHEMA capacity has nothing to do with the trap capacity but with the capacity of pipe it is connected too so it can still vent air. So it best to size of gross capacities when air is an issue. I am looking at a trap that appears to be too small for the start up load. The main it drains bangs on start up , then quiets down. A larger gross capacity would be good to handle the slug and then the air can begin venting again.
@ June 13, 2013 10:28 AM in SHEMA trap ratingsI am comparing capacities of different makes and models. Illinois, Sarco, Tunstall, Barnes and Jones for replacements Some of them are rated at SHEMA, others gross. It appears that most companies are still using both SHEMA ratings and gross ratings in their charts.
@ June 12, 2013 10:49 PM in Steam Assoc Planning Meeting...June 21, Chicagowho all is interested?
@ June 12, 2013 4:49 PM in SHEMA trap ratingsI am trying to compare trap capacities and some are rated as gross and others SHEMA. What is the conversion formula for the SHEMA rating.