Joined on August 11, 2008
Last Post on December 10, 2013
@ April 21, 2013 7:25 PM in Direct Pump TT Solo 110 with 3 zonesThat's enough! No matter what I say, you find a way to argue it.You're like a GD pitbull. Give it a rest!
@ April 21, 2013 6:19 PM in Direct Pump TT Solo 110 with 3 zonesNo matter how you cut it....everything is predicated on the emitters ability to disperse btus. If only half the btus go out to the secondary the return mix is that much cooler. Again, I understand what you are saying, and your reasoning, but I believe there's an application for both strategies.Both could be right, or wrong if mis-applied.
@ April 21, 2013 5:25 PM in Direct Pump TT Solo 110 with 3 zonesStop It! Or we'll have an argument about the color of the horse hide.
@ April 21, 2013 4:13 PM in Direct Pump TT Solo 110 with 3 zonesIf the target temp is 130* and he wants to pump 15 gpm primary and secondary......What's the difference? Again, I am not arguing right or wrong,it's just a different approach. The boiler is producing what it should(based on ODR). The emitters will use what they need.
I might argue this approach with cast-iron radiators. We all know they suffer when over-pumped. But, for his baseboards in series, it's six of one, half-a-dozen of the other.
@ April 21, 2013 10:39 AM in Direct Pump TT Solo 110 with 3 zonesI didn't know the argument was continued in this thread.
On reflection, I don't feel that either method is necessarily wrong, just different. The btus per hour will be used either way, and I can see applications for both methodologies. J-D's approach would work well with emitters in series, and Chris's approach would work better with emitters in parallel.
The only caviat I would add to J-D's approach, is, that you must stay within pipe sizing guidelines to avoid velocity noise.
@ April 20, 2013 7:51 PM in QUESTION FOR THE MONTHHouse "A" had a service contract and paid a flat fee. House "B" called someone from the yellow pages, and paid time and materials?
@ April 20, 2013 1:00 PM in Replacing boiler question?heatpro can speak about this, but I just don't see the need to be pumping all the zones in your situation. The garage is almost like an afterthought, and minimally heated. From your description, it's modern construction, as opposed to an old drafty house.You have 2 primary zones, with all the others lower temperature.
@ April 20, 2013 12:23 PM in Replacing boiler question?I know most folks like their bedrooms cooler, but how does that work with the bath tied in? They are usually polar opposites as far as required temperature.
@ April 20, 2013 11:38 AM in Replacing boiler question?The goal is to provide just enough heat to the structure to compensate for the temperature outside.The whole structure becomes an emitter, of sorts. The more you chop the house up into different desired temperatures, the more you complicate control strategies, and sacrifice efficiency.You make the boiler short-cycle by running micro-zones.
@ April 20, 2013 9:57 AM in Replacing boiler question?I would consider combining your baseboard zones into one. I cringe when I hear someone say they have a single room as a zone. The boiler needs load to operate efficiently. Running on ODR it's not the kind of heat you are use to. It's just comfortable, even heat. Let the mod/con do its thing.
@ April 19, 2013 5:59 PM in Replacing boiler question?The TT can be pumped through like that, as opposed to P/S, provided any single zone meets the minimum flow requirements for the HX . The pumps on the return offer no advantage. How are you balancing the split loop?
@ April 19, 2013 1:16 PM in Replacing boiler question?I'm not seeing P/S. I see 3 zones pumped supply, and 3 pumped return off antlers?
@ April 19, 2013 10:36 AM in Replacing boiler question?Something doesn't seem right with the piping?
@ April 18, 2013 8:26 PM in calculating hot water boiler sizeYou need to do a proper heat loss.That determines boiler sizing. You can then compare radiation on a room by room basis against the heat loss.
@ April 17, 2013 10:08 PM in I hope I am not beating a dead horse.If you're happy with it, that's all that counts.No one can change your mind about the things you have come to believe, so it's a dead horse.
@ April 17, 2013 9:06 PM in I hope I am not beating a dead horse.For an oil-fired cast-iron boiler.
@ April 17, 2013 8:41 PM in I hope I am not beating a dead horse."The circulators just move the heat around"
They move it so fast, it returns to the boiler with little change..
@ April 16, 2013 2:10 PM in Strange residue in Giannoni heat exchangerEven if the manufacturers discover the PVC and CPVC to be the culprit, don't expect them to own up to it. The "Class Action" law suits would bankrupt them.You'll just begin to notice it disappear from approval, which some will say, should have happened long ago, anyway.
@ April 16, 2013 1:17 PM in Add Existing Hot Water Baseboard Heat To Unfinished Basement?Can't discuss pricing. It's a rule of the site. Before you jump in, you need to find out if the boiler will support adding emitters. You need to do a heat loss of the structure and compare that to the boiler. I'm pretty sure the current owner won't tell you that a certain bathroom, or bedroom is always freezing. The heat loss will let you see if certain areas don't have enough emitters, and take care of that, now.
@ April 16, 2013 9:52 AM in Taco VortexI hate tapered easy-outs, because more often than not, they do exactly what your 1/2" pipe thread is doing. They spread the part you're trying to remove, and lock it solid. Mark's idea would be an improvement. Thread sealant with less aggressive adhesive qualities would also be an improvement. The torque applied is not an issue.
@ April 15, 2013 8:20 PM in Yale UniversityI'm about 10 minutes away from Yale. Haven't done the museums in a long time, and my wife was just saying she wants to go to the Peabody again, so maybe it's time.