Joined on November 15, 2008
Last Post on November 29, 2013
@ November 29, 2013 6:24 PM in Indoor Pool HVACThat's part of the reason for the energy usage - typically dehumidifers are sized with the expectation that the air temp will be something like 2 degrees warmer than the pool water to control the evaporation rate. I would guess the unit is running all the time. As far as the split condenser - that is an option to provide cooling should the room be too hot. There is also a reheat coil in the unit itself. If the dehumidifier hasn't been serviced regularly it would be a good idea to make sure all the coils are clean and the refrigeration system is properly charged and operating correctly. I probably can't help you much more but to say be careful - we dotted all the i's and crossed the t's and still had a very unpleasant situation with a similar residential indoor pool that was not being run as designed.
@ November 29, 2013 5:47 PM in Indoor Pool HVACWhat temp do they keep the room at? What area of the country are you in?
@ November 29, 2013 1:58 PM in Indoor Pool HVACThat doesn't sound like a cheaper method to me - with the current unit the heat you remove from the evaporator coil ends up either in the pool water or back in the room depending on what unit you have. With the mini split you would be running two compressors to do the same work. Do you know how they are running the system right now? Are they running the room temperature higher than the pool water temperature? Do they cover the pool when not in use? Those things make a huge difference in the amount of energy used.
@ November 29, 2013 1:05 PM in Indoor Pool HVACBe careful - ductless mini splits have a dumidification mode but they have no ability to reheat like a pool dehumidification unit does. Pool dehumidifiers are expensive to run - but if they don't like the $800 / month to run it they surely won't like the $xxx,xxx.xx in damage not having a proper dehumidification / ventilation system can cause. Everything matters with these - pool temperature, air temperature, air pressures relative to living spaces, etc and improper systems can lead to massive mold and rot issues in the home.
@ May 23, 2013 9:45 PM in Time to choose a boilerI put a CHS85 in my own house last year. It's a good boiler - nice control and display, versatile piping,runs quiet. No problems with it at all.
@ April 17, 2013 5:45 PM in I hope I am not beating a dead horse.I agree with you with one caveat and it involves systems that were engineered and installed with higher water temperatures in mind. I thought they didn't exist until we got involved with a weatherization program for some subsidized apartment buildings built in the early 80's. The original systems were installed exactly to the original spec and on design day required 180 degree water and ran with an 18 degree temp drop. In that situation you need the bigger boiler pump.
On a side note - with these firetube boilers with low heat exchanger water side head loss - how cool would it be to have a system with a single pump (no primary secondary) that had a setpoint for minimum flow rate and then used delta T to control above that rate.
@ April 17, 2013 4:48 PM in I hope I am not beating a dead horse.I think what JDB is getting at is that using a Delta T pump in and of itself will not help a boiler short cyling problem when dealing with a small zone. Slowing down the zone flow to achieve a higher Delta T causes the total BTU output of the zone to drop as he showed in his calculations. Obviously it has other advantages as regards water temperature return to facilitate higher running efficiencies but it does not result in higher BTU output from the zone.
@ November 28, 2012 1:23 PM in Grundfos Magna - which mode?It is a 40-120. The system has some long marginally sized pipe runs to the furthest radiators. I left the pump in the proportional pressure mode as per the manual. I guess I'm just trying to understand why that would be better in my situation. Constant pressure makes more sense to me.
@ November 27, 2012 9:15 PM in Grundfos Magna - which mode?I just installed a grundfos magna on a cast iron radiator system with TRV's and outdoor reset. I am just curious what mode others have used in in this situation and with what results. The other times I've used the magna were on apartment buildings with zone valves - I left it in the auto-adapt mode and it worked fine.
@ October 26, 2012 8:29 PM in WEIL MCLEAN ULTRAIs it natural gas or propane? Was a combustion test done on startup?
@ September 28, 2012 11:47 AM in New Mod-Con system - wife not happyIs there a new thermostat on the system? Sometimes the old stat was out of calibration and the home was warmer than the setting.
@ August 10, 2011 8:23 PM in Is it me or is Wiring diagrams getting smaller in print???We have started printing wiring diagrams on 13 x 19 paper - the printers aren't that expensive and it really helps.
@ February 24, 2009 1:55 PM in seals going out 6 months in heating systemWe saw a system that had ongoing seal problems - it turned out the pH in the system was very high. When that was fixed the seal problem went away.
@ February 8, 2009 8:34 PM in LIne Set Frost in WinterDangerous No. It's simple the refrigerant migrating. The difference between the compressor crankcase heater or winding temperature and the indoor coil temperature as the heating cycles of the furnace changes can make the refrigerant move all on its own. Refrigeration's cool.
@ December 21, 2008 8:17 PM in Sucky Mod Con Efficiency.... (ME)Mark - has the boiler input changed significantly? It would seem to me like a fouled heat exchanger would lead to less air flow at the same blower RPM and thus a lower firing rate.
@ December 7, 2008 7:45 PM in it would behoove mr obama.......It depends on who is doing the measuring. Many so called green LEED buildings today with all the high tech goods from a total energy usage stand point are bigger energy hogs than buildings built decades ago. First its about the energy usage of the entire structure. Second it is about envelope aka the shell. Third the control strategies employed. The new high tech gadgets and so called new hydronic stuff account for less than 10% savings in the overall grand scheme. That's kinda the difference between a 80 and 90 percent unit.
@ September 12, 2008 12:25 PM in Nice Fuses! - DFThey solved that problem! Reminds me of a furnace replacement we did where somebody had wired the circuit for the furnace off the top lugs in the fuse panel - completely unfused circuit. A good reason to never short two wires to find the circuit breaker / fuse.
@ September 9, 2008 8:45 AM in Stainless steel fin tubeHas anybody ever heard of a manufacturer of stainless steel fin tube? I have an application in a corrosive environment where this would be ideal.
@ August 20, 2008 1:14 PM in Chilled water reset controls... (ME)Honeywell makes a T775R series of controllers that is a fairly inexpensive way to do outdoor reset. I'm curious though - it seems that when I see freeze protection on a chiller it is usually the result of a flow problem. What kind of load do you have?
@ June 23, 2008 2:00 PM in Converting Energy Kinetics to gas?Atmospheric cast iron boilers are a very lousy gas design! In this 21st century, we need a cast iron boiler like we need a cast iron big block V8. Just look up Laars, RBI, Lochinvar and Raypak atmospheric gas design. They are all above 82 AFUE and not 'thermal efficiency' which does not mean much. Vent assist gas design boilers have even higher ratings up to 87% near condensing (in fact the flue gases condense in the chimneys). One cannot use what a combustion test gives for efficiency. We measured actual natural gas use, combustion gas make up, temeperature and quantaty, flow rates in and out and temperature of same. We then had an accurate picture of energy efficiency in a steady state. Uninsulated wet base boilers will loose over 6% of overall efficiency while insulated boilers around 3%. One really has to dig to get the actual losses atributed to jacket and water capacity. You will note that very large boilers used in industry, do not show AFUE. The thermal losses due to water capacity and even radiation are to great!
@ June 23, 2008 10:55 AM in Converting Energy Kinetics to gas?After several years testing conversion burners and gas design equipment both in the lab and in the field, a gas design has better overal efficiency. It is a no brainner. One needs only to look at the AFUE ratings of a Raypak Raytherm (83-84%) or Hi Delta (84%) or similar designs. Then count the standby and thermal losses of several gallons of water compared to a pint in the gas design. While I have gotten efficiencies of 83% in a cast iron Viking Junior, those were combustion efficiencies. System efficiency of a gas design is superior. Just ask the boiler manufactureres!