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Sarah

Joined on July 7, 2004

Last Post on September 2, 2010

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ES2

@ September 2, 2010 10:38 PM in Boiler Sizing

Yeah, I was looking at that boiler. Why can it take lower water temps than other cast iron boilers? Anyone have a strong feeling about the ES2? I'm really not looking for a debate on the virtues of modcon versus atmospheric, just experience with this boiler.

what do you think about the issue of potential boiler undersizing (which would go away once we get the walls insulated)? Do I have to take out baseboard fins in order to keep the upstairs zone from getting cold?

What I mean is, even if there's low heat loss post-insulation, if I have too much baseboard will some of it not heat up? This is a 3 zone house, and we don't usually have all 3 zones calling at the same time.

The design temp for new haven is listed at 7 degrees, that's how I got the 7.

thanks!

Chris,

@ September 2, 2010 10:31 PM in Boiler Sizing

I'm happy to pay for a heat loss study. The trick seems to be getting someone to do one. Can you run lower temperatures with a traditional atmospheric boiler?

so are you saying...

@ September 1, 2010 10:33 PM in Boiler Sizing

that oversizing an atmospheric boiler will result in a massive drop in efficiency? makes sense, just want to be sure I'm understanding you. Also, the blower door test was just $25 after an energy co. rebate and didn't involve any infrared anything...maybe another one is in order...

thanks

@ September 1, 2010 9:47 PM in Boiler Sizing

I"ll check out the article, thanks.

Interestingly, we had a blower door test done and they said the house was fine as far as leaky doors and windows etc. (as a side note, there's an issue with getting blown in insulation that has to do with the possibility of old knob and tube wiring being inside the walls (gotta love these old houses) that has to be corrected before we can insulate). But yes, it makes sense to do that asap.

so do I infer that if you think 68 K btus is a lot, you think a 90 K boiler is way too much, Given that the 90 K was assessed by a rule of thumb calculation and not a real heat loss study.

cheers,

Sarah

your questions

@ September 1, 2010 8:13 PM in Boiler Sizing

Hi Larry,
outside design temp is 7 degrees.
We are replacing the boiler because it is ancient and inefficient, and the oil burner *stinks* when it's running--servicing it has not helped.
zones are sun porch, first floor, second floor. the rooms that overheat and underheat are on the same continuous loop, so it's an issue of wrong length of baseboard, not a boiler problem per se. that's a separate issue, germane only in that the guy who put in the baseboard can't be trusted to have done such a perfect sizing job the first time around.
While a condensing boiler may be more efficient in the long run, NOW is when we have to pay for it, and there's a limit. Besides, I'm not going to install a condensing boiler--which must be sized exactly right-- if I can't get a more accurate heatloss study than simply counting the last guy's feet of baseboard! : )
cheers,
Sarah

Boiler Sizing

@ September 1, 2010 3:08 PM in Boiler Sizing

Hi folks,

I will be replacing my old oil-fired boiler with a new atmospheric gas-fired boiler this fall. I did a heat loss study using free online software and came up with 68.000 BTU heat loss for the house. I've called two heating contractors so far and both want to do the heat loss study simply by multiplying my existing baseboard by some number. One came up with 75.000 BTUs, the other even more. I've explained that since the original baseboard was installed, we've had new replacement windows put in, but they don't want to do a more detailed heat loss. Both of them, and a couple other contractors I've talked to informally, say my numbers seem low, but I'm the only one actually measuring windows and doors and outside walls here.

I should say that I've worked with the first contractor before and have always been really happy with his work and his work ethic, so I'd like to use him if we can come to some agreement about the boiler size. He was going to put in a Utica 90,000 BTU boiler.

Money is a real consideration here--we are stretching to be able to do this, so condensing boilers and so forth are not an option this time around.

We have a 1925 single family in Southern Connecticut that's 1620 square feet with 3 zones, an insulated attic but uninsulated walls, double pane replacement windows, a full basement. The baseboard is all copper fin. HWT will remain separate.

What could happen if we put in a boiler that IS too small for the house's heat loss? do we have to take out sections of fin if we use a smaller boiler? A couple of our rooms underheat and a couple overheat, so it's not like the baseboard was that well measured to begin with. (Each zone is one loop).

Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

thanks in advance for your help.

pressure off?

@ January 19, 2007 6:26 PM in presure surge/expansion tank question

interesting idea about the exp. tank pressure being off- can I check it by disconnecting it and hooking up a gauge to the lower side of the tank and taking a reading? Then, what is on the other side of it, ie, nothing, would be at atmospheric pressure. otherwise, what does it mean to have the boiler at atmospheric pressure--open to the atmosphere? or reading 14.7psi? the boiler feed valve has been shut off; it isn't the problem. there's no tankless either. cold fill pressure is a nice 12 psi. pressure only surges as the water heats up.

pressure surge/expansion tank question

@ January 19, 2007 3:45 PM in presure surge/expansion tank question

The situation: hydronic boiler with weeping relief valve, pressure up in the low 30's. Seems like an obvious diagnosis: change the expansion tank. Changed tank to same size (old tank diaphragm was indeed broken, tank was totally full), but problem continues. The pressure surges up into the high 20's and the relief starts weeping. I attached a photo of the piping on that part of the boiler. Although there are some less than kosher things about the installation (not done by me), ie, circs on return, no spiro vent, etc, the boiler was working before the original expansion tank failed. I shut off the fast fill to be sure it wasn't over filling, so that isn't it. The air vent you see is new. New exp tank same size as original, a #30 for a smallish one fam. house with 2 zones, one of which is rads, one baseboard. circulator works, zone valves work. Am I missing something totally obvious? It is the end of a long week...Please help! Thanks, y'all. Sarah