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Joined on December 29, 2008

Last Post on August 20, 2014

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There are no

@ January 7, 2010 11:08 AM in Aquastat replacement

replacements listed period by honeywell for this vlv. Like Mark said, Seek professional help.

What's the flow rate

@ January 7, 2010 10:38 AM in how many btu's max for 5/8 pex tubing

You can get 6.0 gpm through 5/8" pex. The attachment should help you out.

Heat Loss

@ January 7, 2010 6:03 AM in radiator reconfigure

Have a heat loss done. Measure the radiation. Compare the 2. Run lower water temps and add thermostatics. Fear is now gone.

Take some Time

@ January 7, 2010 6:00 AM in Primary Secondary Pumping

and watch this video.

As Dave Has Said

@ January 7, 2010 5:55 AM in Help with BTU size and age

Don't worry about the size of this boiler. Have a heat loss done.

If Your Looking For Simple

@ January 6, 2010 5:27 PM in Mixing radiant into old cast iron system

I would use a simple boiler reset control w/DHW capability like a honeywell aquatrol or tekmar equiv. For the radiant I would look at using a Taco Radiant Mixing Block. The RMB will give you boiler protection and you can zone both radiant zones off it. It will make a real simple system and give you both the reset for the boiler (cast iron zone) and lower water temp for the radiant. IF you really want to get some deep reset. Run primary/secondary and use 2 Taco RMB's.


@ January 6, 2010 3:55 PM in Heating - Hydronic or Baseboard

Most HVAC (Air Guys) will argue this. In my opinion you can control the comfort of the home and the heat loss of a structure better with hydronic heat. 

Homes that are heated with hydro-air tend to be oversized for the heating side due to air handlers being sized to meet cooling loads so boilers tend to get oversized to match a head load versus a heat loss. For example a 3 Ton Air handler will give you 36,000 btus for the cooling side but gives 60,000 btus on the heat side. A brand new 3,000 sqft homes average heat loss is only roughly 40,000 btus but yet we try to stuff those 60,000 btu's in a first floor because the coil was sized for the cooling load. What happens? We tend to short cycle and rooms get uncomfortable.

Baseboard is just one option. Have you looked at panel radiators or radiant panel baseboard. The panel rads will take up much less space and will allow for lower water temps and increase control for comfort. Panel baseboard replaces the existing kick moulding (looks just like it) and gives you a radiant heat.

It all boils down to your comfort and which system is going to give you the best bang for your fuel dollars.

There Are

@ January 6, 2010 12:27 PM in Aquastat replacement

24 T5001A that come up when I cross ref. Do you have the last 4 numbers.


@ January 6, 2010 11:24 AM in Cracks in Pex Tubing

I seem to remember a tubing that was used in the Northwest had quite a bit of this type of failure and I believe it was made by Plasco which is was owned by Wirsbo.  Here is an article I remembered reading quite some time ago that I found.



@ January 6, 2010 6:52 AM in Heat Loss Through Split-Level Wall Opening - - Remedy Ideas ?

The anwser to your question is in your hands. What are you willing to spend? My suggestion, get rid of the electric board. Do you have gas in the house? If so, a mod/con with panel rads running on low water temp with thermostatics. Problem fixed.

Sorry to Disagree With You Tim

@ January 6, 2010 6:45 AM in Old Home with Radiators and Hot Water Baseboards

Baseboard does not need 180 degree water consistently to heat a space. I agree that the rads and the board should each be on its own zone but the real question is. Did the installer do a heat loss and put in the correct amount of baseboard to overcome the heat loss for the rooms? Where is the t-stat? Is the room where the t-stat is installed have rads in it or the board? Is the board after the rads? Is this really a series loop system or a mono-flow system? May find that a simple fix maybe to add thermostatics and get this running on constant circulation but we need more information.

Zone Control

@ January 3, 2010 6:49 AM in 1st mod/con. circulators/ zone valves?

I had to edit my original post meant to write zone with zone valves but after reading your follow up post I would zone circs knowing that a possible 2 floor addition is being used.  With the possible addition I can understand the increase in boiler size.

Why Such a Big Boiler?

@ January 2, 2010 4:49 PM in 1st mod/con. circulators/ zone valves?

Zone with zone valves and use a Grundfos Alpha as your system side pump. The question I have is why such a big boiler? 85 feet of residential baseboard per zone even at a 4GPM flow rate is only 102,000 max output at 180 degree water. I also wouldn't primary/secondary.  I would use a hydro seperator/low loss header. While primary/secondary will work, keep in mind it was primarly developed to protect cast iron boilers from being shocked. A mod con prefers to have the coldest water possible returning from the system to get it's best efficiency.  One of the beefs I have with most mod/con installation manuals is that they don't even offer it in their piping arrangements which is a shame. It isloates the boiler from the system side , collects any debris plus helps in promoting condensing.

Maybe Radiant Panel Baseboard?

@ January 1, 2010 3:52 PM in panel rads,baseboard ,hi heat lose and costs where to do cross the line

I don't the perimeters of the rooms but maybe the attachement can help you out. You can still use the Wirsbo manifold and 3/8" Pex. Basically replaces the kick moulding and looks just like it. PS, Run a 30 degree delta-t instead of a 20 even at design you'd alleast have 150 going back to the boiler. You would have to use any panels rated output at 160 though.

Absolutely Not

@ January 1, 2010 3:36 PM in add radiant zone to home run system

There is no way. You must treat this as an additional zone. Like you said. You  understand that you have to mix the water temp down. Once you mix you have to have some way to get the water after the mix through the floor. Best bet is just add the additional zone. Who's mod/con? Does this boiler have the ability to run a second heating curve with a modulating mixing valve or injection pump? Why do you not want to run an extra zone? Is your budget an issue?


@ December 31, 2009 7:23 PM in adding baseboard

Thanks for the post. Interesting. I'd like to get my hands on a sample.


@ December 31, 2009 7:14 PM in Modifying Takagi Jr to handle radiant heat

Gordy you make a great comparision. Your absolutely correct. You just made a water heater. I just posted on another thread about how I dislike water heaters for radiant unless a very small load. Happy new year.

Quick Question

@ December 31, 2009 7:07 PM in Underfloor radient off BB return

If the original baseboard heated the home with 180 degree water at design then why will it not heat the space with a mod/con if your curve starts at 180 degree water? Is the question, I am no longer using 180 degree water as my design water temp? Is the family room on its own zone? Who's mod/con?

One of My Points

@ December 30, 2009 9:27 PM in sizing a water heater for radiant heat

You have very limited control over the system.

You Can Do

@ December 30, 2009 9:26 PM in sizing a water heater for radiant heat

Whatever you want. It's your customer. I would think that someone of your caliber would offer them choices and your best professional opinion.

That is a no no

@ December 30, 2009 9:20 PM in Is the Burnham MPO 147 "adjustable"?

In a nutshell NO....They now make a MPO-115....

Minimum Water Temp

@ December 30, 2009 9:18 PM in viessmann

The iron can handle a minimum water temp  of 120 without the injector that is put in at the factory when purchased with Vitotroinic Control. Just make sure you don;t condense the chimminey. Can't tell you where high limit needs to be. I don;t know the heat loss of each zone or the emitters. Are you zoning the boiler with priority? If so, whose zone controls. If your going to use a Taco just make sure it's and EXP version and you can add the PC701 for boiler reset down the line.