Security Seal Facebook Twitter GooglePlus Pinterest Newsletter Sign-up
The Wall


Joined on December 29, 2008

Last Post on July 29, 2014

Contact User

Recent Posts

My boiler of Choice

@ October 19, 2009 7:16 PM in Radiant install questions

would be a Viessmann Vitodens 200 with a modulating 3-way mixing valve. I would add a Vitotrol 300 for indoor feedback  and be on my merry way.

Federal Tax Credit

@ October 18, 2009 7:59 AM in Tax Credits for High Efficiency Boilers

The only thing about the tax credit is that you only get 1 bite at the apple. IN other words get the best bang for your buck. The program covers more then just HVAC/Heating equipment. As for local rebates, in my market both utliities are giving $1,000 on 90plus, 300 on an indirect and $25.00 a program therm when installed in a new system. They are also giving $100.00 for the addition of outdoor reset controls.


@ October 17, 2009 11:23 AM in Taco ZR403 vs. ZR404

Need to use the SR Exp verision and add the PC600 card. This will give u extra end switch to run a domestic pump for priorty.

Ideal Radiant Temp

@ October 17, 2009 9:42 AM in Recommended Temperature

The ideal temp is the temp you need to overcome the heatloss at your design temp. For instance, if you design for 0 degrees outside as we do here and I need 120 degree water to get the btu output of the floor to overcome my loss then I need 120 degrees at 0. I don't need 120 at 5 or 10 or 15 or 20 or 30 degrees outside. I may need anywhere from 115 to 90 degree water to overcome the heat loss on that temps day.
My question to you would be how is the radiant controlled? In other words what are you using to get the water temp you need for the radiant, ie, mixing vlv, injection pump? If your using a water heater and just changing the temps without some type of outdoor compensation the system will never know what it needs on that day's heat loss. You'll be running up and down the stairs all the time to find your comfort range for each day.

Boiler Reliability

@ October 17, 2009 9:35 AM in high efficient or not

The reliability of a boiler like any other appliance is a reflection of the initial installation and the preventive maintenace. I have seen some of the best fail as much as some of the worse. It's all about who and how installed.

CI Rads

@ October 17, 2009 6:20 AM in ci rads

Drop me an e-mail. What size rads are you looking for? I have access to them.

Do the Heat Loss

@ October 15, 2009 9:30 PM in Radiant vs Efficient Furnace

Take the last job you just did and do a radiant loss vs a hot air loss. I never said AFUE. I have less of a heat loss for radiant period. The infiltration factor for forced hot air increases due to the amount of convection that is produced with forced air. This convection promotes a faster loss of energy through outside panels, windows or doors.
In radiant we have little to zero convection thus slowing our infiltration. This gives us a lesser required heat loss to overcome. So we need a smaller heating plant to overcome our loss versus yours. Meaning we burn less energy.
The heat loss difference is 35%. Let me ask you this. Take a 3,000 sqft house, well insulated, good windows and doors. Nothing fancy just typical. Generally what size furnace would you put in?

Before Boiler Choice

@ October 15, 2009 9:14 PM in Radiant install questions

How do you plan on controlling the radiant? What are you doing for domestic hot water? Curious before I give my boiler choice.

Size for 180

@ October 15, 2009 9:00 PM in Water Temp. to use Sizing Baseboard Heat

Use the 610 a foot for 180. If you boiler water temp is leaving 185 your return water temp should be 165. Don't lower the water temp unless you plan on doing a heat loss of all the other rooms and making sure that the footage of board in those rooms can overcome the loss at 170 degree water temp.  Don't worry about pipe loss. Worry about supply/return temp.

Couple of questions

@ October 15, 2009 8:50 PM in Pump SIze

Does that 300' count from the manifold and back to it or is there 300' in the floor and then leader lengths from and to the manifold? Are you running 100 percent water or is their anti-freeze in the system? Max loop length on 1/2" is 300' so you are way out on the curve. May have to use a TA009 or a Grunfos 26-99 depending on the anwser to the questions above. Keep in mind that we do not add up all the loops on the manifold. We only need to overcome loop that requires the highest head and flowrate. If we can overcome that we can overcome the others.


@ October 15, 2009 8:34 PM in Is an ODR really helpfull

Dump the coil, add an Indirect and zone priorty. I use Taco so in your case add another zone for the indirect and use a  ZVC-404EXP Zone Control then add the Taco PC700 reset card that plugs into the zone control. It's a simple install for a simple system like yours. Use the energy you all ready have being produced and are paying for. Don't add more energy usage as you will be with the elec wtr htr.  Rule of thumb, for every 3 degrees I can run my system below 180 degrees I save 1 percent of fuel.

Size the board

@ October 15, 2009 8:26 PM in Water Temp. to use Sizing Baseboard Heat

For what temp you need at your design temp. In my case here in NY my design temp is 0. See the chart I attached for the ratings. The lower the water temp you start with the lower the out-put of the board so the more footage of board you will need to overcome the heat loss at your desgin temp.


@ October 10, 2009 6:01 PM in Ok to transplant a burner

Can be set up with the proper combustion equipment. Before you make a decision I would suggest you give Burnham a call. That boiler may be covered or atleast a portion of it's value under warranty. It is handled a couple of ways. They will send a replacement jacket block but the contractor will have to strip your current boiler of the burner, aquastat and the other essentials and put them on the block. They also offer a rebate on warranty boilers. They would rather see you up-grade to the new V8H or MPO. Speak to them prior to doing anything. The V7 series of boilers had a mass leaking problem. Let me guess, it's leaking 2nd section mid.

Rob is correct

@ October 6, 2009 3:45 PM in boiler replacement help

If you really want to promote condensing do not pipe primary/secondary. Use a hydro-seperator (low loss header). 

Mod/Con is NOT

@ October 4, 2009 4:38 PM in Suggestions?

of the ?. I have some small last version Vitodens 100's that I want to get rid of. Drop me an e-mail.

NoOutdoor Reset

@ October 4, 2009 9:20 AM in Why the difference between these 2 boiler bids?

I agree on not putting the boiler on outdoor reset but I would def run 2 heating curves here. A high temp curve for the fin tube and a lower temp curve for the cast iron. Could add a Taco RMB and set a different curve for the cast iron. This would eliminate the pirmary secondary piping (it's done within itself) and it's very easy to wire. There is a very nice video on Taco's web site. Wouldn't hurt to take a look.

Here is the laymens anwser

@ October 3, 2009 6:53 AM in Radiant vs Efficient Furnace

Your question has 2 different anwsers. First, when looking at AFUE you are looking at that piece of equipments efficiency not the heating systems efficiency so I'm going to give you the simple anwser.
You need 35% less energy to heat a space radiantly versus forced hot air. If you do a heat loss for both types of systems you will find you need a smaller heating appliance with radiant then with forced hot air. Whether they both are 95% AFUE is not dictating how much fuel you will burn with each system. If my heat loss is less with radiant then I burn less energy becuase my required btu design load is much less.
Now, with that said, there are numerous ways with radiant that I can make my "system efficiency" (how I use the btu's produced by the heating equipment) more efficient where with forced hot air there really aren't.
Everyone get's caught up in AFUE on equipment. That is only one part of a heating system. How you get the heat, deliver the heat and hold the heat are just as and maybe more important than the equipment itself.
Radiant heat is just a term describing a type of heat and every job can be designed in many ways depending on budget and what the customer/contractor are trying to get out of the system. I hate the umbrella term "radiant heat."
Me and you could both have radiant heat but mine could be a much different type of system than yours. Where as with forced hot air every system is pretty much the same.

You must have not seen or heard

@ September 25, 2009 3:38 PM in Mod Con Annual Maint

of the new Vitodens 200  recently released in August or the new Vitodens 100 released in July. Price Point is right there and I can pull the burner off the boiler in about 3 minutes. 5 Screws and your in. No more pump inside like the older Vitodens. The control far exceeds triangles.

Pex is Pex

@ September 25, 2009 11:54 AM in pex question please

I agree to a point "Pex A" does have advantages of the others though. The fitting system is just as important as the tubing itself. Some of the "b" and "c" guys  are beginning to see so problems associated with the crimp style fittng approach where the fitting is not holding up to agressive water as the walls of those ftgs are not as large as the "A" guy.
With the "A" guy the tubing itself along with a ring made of the same material forms the joint vs a forced joint with some type of metal band. It may not be so critical in a plbg application but on a heating application I wouln't be comfortable with a crimp type fitting system. I'm not saying it won't work or fail over time but the "A" guy use to have a crimp type system for a little while and found some long terms problems associated with it so they stopped using that type of system.

200 Info

@ September 25, 2009 11:28 AM in Vitodends 200 Lamda Pro

This is just about everything that is in print on the boiler you specified. Happy reading.
You must use a LLH with the 200. There is a sensor in the header that sends feedback to the boiler control. Also, the LLH promotes better condensing.


@ September 24, 2009 7:44 PM in Myson Radiators - are they any good?

Nice pic, have you had a chance to get a look at the new boiler?  The word is not until Jan for you guys on the west coast. I'm sure you'll love the 35% drop bring it right in line with everyone else but yet offering much more than everyone else.

My advice

@ September 23, 2009 8:51 PM in Too Many Choices

Recalculate that heat loss. I don;t know what part fo the country you are in  but I'm in NY and we design for 0 and that load seems awful high compared to the sq footage you are giving. Even if I take the old fudge factor of 40btu sqft I wouldn't come up with that load. Boiler wise, I would take a look at Viessmanns new Vitodens 200. Would only need 1 boiler. Yes you would use a LLH (hydro seperator). But the boiler gives you the abilty to cut down adding other controls. The LLH also has a sensor in it that will talk to the boiler and promote condensing.
The other great feature is that the burner/gas vlv continually looks at incoming gas pressure and mixture and adjusts as those change keeping the boiler burning clean and at it's optimum efficiciency. Also, 2 yrs parts, limited lifetime on heat exchanger. No other wall hung in this country has these offerings in their boiler line. Period.