Joined on December 29, 2008
Last Post on December 4, 2013
@ July 25, 2009 9:45 PM in Boilers - Aluminum vs. Stainlesswe were talking about gas condensing wall hungs on this thread. I don't see a gas boiler on EK site more than 85 percent AFUE
@ July 25, 2009 9:04 PM in Viessmann Vitodens Boilersfor both the new 100 and 200 boiler.
@ July 25, 2009 8:47 PM in high efficiency boiler - which is betterI see that you haven't had a change to see the new Viessmann Pricing. ITS THE SAME AS BUDERUS NOW. The new Vitodens 200 blows away everyone. Can vent upto 200' away with simple Z-vent or equiv. Plus nobody has a burner like them. You plug it into lp or nat and it will fire without making any adjustments. Also, the burner monitors incoming gas pressures and adjust accordingly. Will fire at 2"wc on Nat and 4"wc on LP. Price came down 25%-35%. Right in the same ball park and the control blows away anyone.
@ July 25, 2009 6:31 PM in Boilers - Aluminum vs. StainlessThe easiset was to anwser your question is to look at the table of metals. Stainless is by far a better material. Like the post below alum is used because of it's heat transfer but what it gives longevity. While it's not avail to the rest of the country only the Northeast right now I would look at the Vitodens Boiler from Viessmann. I have a post in the thread on the boiler so I won't go into it here. The biggeset advantage that I didn't state in my thread is 2yr warranty parts, 10 years full on heat exchanger but it's pro-rated and you will never pay more than 50% of it's value after the 15th year for a replacement. Every other manufacture warranty is only 1yr parts and 10yrs on heat exchanger after that you are on you own.
@ July 25, 2009 6:29 PM in BoilerHas anyone had the pleasure of seeing the new Vitodens 100 and 200 boilers from Viessmann. I've been dealing with Viessmann for a number of years they have finally come up with a boiler that contends price wise with every other wall hung out there with a much better boiler. The new burner on the 200 is unbelievable. If will fire nat/lp gas without having to touch it and also looks at gas pressure and adjusts accordingly. No more nusiance lockouts do to loss of gas pressure. Will fire down to 2"wc on Nat Gas and 4"wc on LP. It comes standard with the Vitotronic 200 control so you can do high temp, low temp, domestic, add motorized mix vlvs without having to add anything. The 100 is now outdoor reset standard at the same price as the older 100. The 200 has comes down 25%-35% in price and they have added bigger sizes. Watch out Buderus and the rest Viessmann is now in your price ball park!
@ July 25, 2009 6:21 PM in Increasing efficiencyIn my opinion would be to 1st scrap the tankless coil and add an indirect water heater. Second make sure I also add a zone control w/priority. Third, either add a Beckett Heat Manager or outdoor reset. This is how I would start. Do a heat loss of each room. Compare the heat loss to your current heat emiiters (baseboard, radiators, etc). Come up with a curve. I would proably use Taco Zone controls so I could add the PC701 outdoor reset control. I would then make sure I repiped the enitre system for constant circulation and make sure I have a boiler by-pass to protect my old 1950's technology boiler from cracking. Now if I couldn't re-pipe the entire system I would def do the boiler by-pass. I would also take a look at my firing rate to see if I could down-fire the boiler also. Good luck.
@ July 23, 2009 7:55 AM in Viessmann Vitodens BoilersMany of you may not know but Viessmann has made a change to the Vitodens 100 and 200 boiler and it is only being release to the Northeast at the current time. For those of you in other areas of the country that sell Viessmann I have some of what you know to be the current boiler that I am looking to get rid of at a big discounted price. If your interested let me know.
@ July 23, 2009 7:49 AM in high efficiency boiler - which is betterIf we are talking about the new Vitodens 100 boiler that was released July 1 then hands down that is the best buy. Here's why? 1. 316 Titanium Stainless Heat Exchanger. You can't change the periodic table. Strongest Heat Exch on the market today. 2. Limited Lifetime Warranty, 10 yrs full, pro-rated and you will never pay more than 50% of it's value after the 15th year. No other manufacture can match that. 3. No primary secondary piping needed or additional pump to get through the boiler. 4. Can vent multiple ways.
@ January 14, 2009 6:44 PM in Hydronic In floor heat - is this normaltemp of the floor? What is your supply water temp going to the floor? What is the finished floor?
@ January 14, 2009 6:32 PM in Instantaneous Water HeaterOf an application for a Nortiz Stainless Steel 931 ASME Direct Vent for commerical dishwashing. The unit will handle the GPM and we can provide 180 degree water through the wash cycle. The question that has come up is what happens when the commerical dishwasher goes into rinse cycle and has that quick 5-7 second dump? Will we maintain 180 degree water? I know you can pipe a recirc line but that defeats the selling point of the unit. Does anyone have an installation like this?
@ January 14, 2009 6:20 PM in Becket heat manager fail?Sensors are sold seperatly..Have them on the shelf..
@ January 14, 2009 6:17 PM in Adding more radiant to systemProvide a piping diagram of your existing system?
@ January 13, 2009 7:27 PM in Radiant ceilingI've attached a nice explanation on how to design it. Hopefully is will help you out and anwser your questions. Best of Luck.
@ January 13, 2009 7:24 PM in Radiant ceilingMaybe this attchement will help you out. Best of luck
@ January 13, 2009 7:02 PM in Adding more radiant to systemHow about a nice set point control that will sense floor temp or air temp seperately or a combinbation of both. It's also programable and will learn the curve the room. Take a look at the Wirsbo 511's. I will again go back to the fact that I think you should scrap that Buderus control. You can use the exisiting modulating mixing vlv.
@ January 12, 2009 7:49 PM in Adding more radiant to systemAre you willing to scrap the buderus control? If so, take a look at the wirsbo climate control. You will still be able to use the ESBE (Buderus) modulating mixing vlv for your 1st floor an will be able to add an additional modulating mixing vlv for your addition. The control will also give you outdoor reset for your boiler and indirect priorty for your domestic. The control will even turn a light on in the house if you want it to. The control is not a control in the aspect of your current buderus control but a software program that you dictate what you want to control. Basically your designing your own custom control stragety for your needs. It'll give you the best bang for your buck while also allowing for any future addtions. You cannot add an additional FM card to your current control. You would have to add some other type of control, (ie, TEKMAR, Taco RMB etc). Why not simplify your system to 1 control? Adding an addtional manifold may not give you what you are looking for. I'm sure that the addition is not on the same heating curve as the 1st floor. Wouldn't you like to be able to fine tune your system to your living conditions? Best of Luck..
@ January 7, 2009 10:13 PM in Advice for upgrading systemsays the boiler is too small for the load.
@ January 7, 2009 10:02 PM in Thermofin v. ThinfinIn general I use Wirsbo Joist Trak and always 3/8" tubing..Alot easier to pull and you don't get more btu's out of 1/2" just 50' more loop length.. I always loop each room seperately. I also always determine my zoning based on solar gain and layout with the exception of my kitchens which are always on their own zone and with a floor sensor. I don't like on/off radiant systems they tend to chase the day. I'd rather always have some type of floor temp running that way when the big heat tab in the sky falls I'm not dead cold. As far as delta T goes. Generally all joist appliacations run between a 15 and 20 degree delta t. Only time 10 is in slab applications.
@ January 7, 2009 9:28 PM in mixing valvethat makes no sense. An indirect tank is using the boiler to supply it's hot water threw the coil. Has to be zoned off the boiler.
@ January 7, 2009 9:17 PM in effiency and programmable thermostats in gas boilersWhile I respect the persons that is providing solutions for this site. In this application a heat loss is not the beginning process. You already have an existing system load. What I mean by this is that you already have heat emiiters in the home. Whether they are fin-tube baseboard, cast iron board, radiators or some other form of distribution. You need to calculate the load you need to produce or satisfy. If you have the following use these formulas to calculate the load you need to provided: Fin-Tube Residential Baseboard....Add up all the footage of board and multiply by 590..On average there are 590 btus in a foot of baseboard. Fin-Tube Hi-Capacity Baseboard..... Same as above except subsitute 810 for the 590. Cast-Iron Board ..... 610 Radiators...You must calculate the sqft of EDR and mult by 250. Burnhams website has literature on how to measure radiators. As far as boilers go.. Look at the system you have currently. How is it piped and zoned. You don't want to put a cadillac heat plant into worn old tires. What does it matter that you can produce enery efficiently if you can't deliver that energy in the same manner. Pick which boiler will give you the best bang for your buck. If you have a fin-tubed baseboard system I would recommend either the Viessmannn Vitodens 100 or the Munchkin Contender Series. Not alot of bells and whistles with the 90 plus eff.. Would you put leather in a 1966 Beattle?