Chris M
Joined on January 5, 2009
Last Post on January 5, 2012
Recent Posts
Pigtail
@ January 5, 2012 8:42 AM in Come On
Thanks all, for your replies. As I said, there were no outward signs of trouble in the way of red/blinking lights. The oil tank is full. I did notice the pressure gauge was hitting nearly 5 lbs before the boiler cut out, did a bit of reading and decided to try troubleshooting the pressuretrol. Turns out the pigtail was clogged; I could hardly blow more than a bar-drink stirrer's volume of air through it. So, I used a plastic zip-tie and some ground wire to snake the crud out, and then gave it a good rush of water to rinse through. I put it all back together, and that seems to have fixed the problem. Heat's been running when called for by the thermostat, and the pressuretrol cuts in and out about as good as a pressuretrol could (1lb/.5). I suppose I'll be looking into a brass pigtail and a vaporstat soon, as I now know they're better able to handle lower pressures more accurately. Thanks again for the replies.Come On
@ January 4, 2012 9:32 AM in Come On
All,I have a burner that won't come on. Burnham Megasteam boiler/Beckett AFG burner. I heard the heat running fine and then shut off before I got up this morning, but after I got up, I turned up the thermostat a bit to raise the temp, but the burner never came on. There are no outward signs of problems (no red lights, etc). I pressed the reset button, and that did nothing. Shut off power from the emergency switch, turned on again, still nothing. I ruled out the thermostat by jumping the two wires (the only two wires) together, and still nothing. What else should I be doing to troubleshoot this? I have no contract with a service company at the moment, and don't want to get hosed by an out of contract service call if I can avoid it. If a part on the burner can be replaced, I'd like to do that myself if I could, but I don't know what the next thing is that I should be looking at on this AFG. Any advice would be appreciated. I have a pellet stove providing heat to the main living areas, and the weather is expected to warm slightly over the next few days (Northern Westchester, NY), so I'd like to avoid a house call if I could get the right advice here. Then again, if you're a tech in my area and willing to give me a deal, I'm all ears as well. Thanks in advance for your replies.
Watt Requirement of Becket AFG Oil Burner
@ November 4, 2011 5:56 PM in Watt Requirement of Becket AFG Oil Burner
All,I took a pretty bad beating here in the Northeast with that power outage; I was without power from Saturday until Thursday afternoon. I've decided it's time to get a generator because there's no way I'm going to have a repeat of seeing my breath at bedtime. I plan to get a +/- 6000 watt portable generator, and get an electrician to break out a switch panel for me so that I can plug it in and throw a switch the next time an extended power outage occurs. I'm tallying up the watt requirements of the devices I'd like to be able to run simultaneously during an outage, and am wondering what the Beckett AFG burner I have firing my Burnham Megasteam needs in terms of watts (running and startup). Do any of you know offhand? By the way... I'm looking at the Stanley All Weather Generator, because of its ability to run in rain/sleet/snow. The other generators I see don't seem to advertise the ability to run outside in bad weather, and setting one up inside my garage with a custom exhaust running through the wall/door to the outside is not an option I'm willing to consider. My garage is under my main living space, and I don't want to hear the generator below me as it puts me and my family permanently to sleep. Thanks in advance for your replies...
How Good Are Probe LWCOs At Cleaning Themselves?
@ September 26, 2011 8:33 AM in How Good Are Probe LWCOs At Cleaning Themselves?
I have an oil fired Burnham Megasteam, 3 yrs old, and just had it serviced for the beginning of the heating season. The LWCO probe hasn't been removed and inspected/cleaned since the installation. While the service technician was doing his thing servicing the burner and vacuuming the chamber/flue, I asked about the probe. He said it's not necessary to remove the probe and clean it because it's a "self cleaning probe", and pointed to the label on the side of the LWCO cover to back up his statement. It did in fact state that on the label, and I didn't push any further, but what's the real scoop on these "self cleaning" LWCO probes? (McDonnell-Miller is the manufacturer).Oil Aint Goin Away
@ May 19, 2011 9:32 AM in What is the future of residential oil?
There is no other fuel than oil that, per unit, yields as much energy as oil. Oil's here to stay. The special interest groups will try as they may to kill it, but the number of those getting hit in the wallet are growing, and the special interest greenies will lose out in the end. That said, I'm diversified.. I'm sticking with my Burnham Megasteam for 50% of my home heating, my wood pellet stove for the other 50%, and my electric hot water heater for the dishes and the bath.Radiator Covers
@ April 28, 2011 1:43 PM in Radiator covers . Need help !
I think a good question to ask is, "Why do you want to cover the radiator(s)?" I'm thinking of ways to cover mine, and I tend to try to build myself what I'd otherwise pay someone else to buy or build for me. That said... If the cover is for aesthetic purposes only (not to have decorative items sitting on top of it, as some people I know do), then think in terms of materials other than a rigid wood or metal enclosure. What about a shelf, with most of it's surface area being an open vent, mounted above the radiator? That satisfies the top portion. For the sides and front, I'm thinking about a thin fabric, maybe a sheer, semi transparent fabric, like window curtains, with weights sewn into the bottom to keep it from swaying into the room as the heat passes through it. Then, fasten to the wall some of that heat reflective material you can pick up at any Home Depot. An alternative to a fabric could possibly be something similar to those 70's era doorway curtain thingies... you know, the ones made up of a series of strings mounted from the top of the doorway, with beads of different colors? I know I'm gonna catch flack for this post. BRING IT ON! Hahaha (I refuse to use LOL).Bar of Soap
@ March 25, 2011 9:36 AM in Metal-on-wood Expansion Noise - How to Eliminate?
Rubbing a plain old bar of soap on the friction areas could do the trick as well, as a cheap solution. ...old carpenter's trick for squeaky doors.Adding Chimney Liner
@ March 22, 2011 8:55 AM in Adding Chimney Liner
All,I have a Burnham Megasteam (3 yrs old), and it's purring like a kitten. The exhaust flue goes into a stone/mortar chimney. I added a picture I had on file to show the chimney, but it's barely visible-sorry. When replacing a damaged metal chimney cap, I noticed the exposed (18 inch) terra cotta stack is pretty badly rotted on the inside, and there are even some spots that are completely eaten through. I could probably just slap the whole thing right off the top of the stone work if I wanted to. Looking down the chimney, it's difficult to tell of the terra cotta liner is in the same shape throughout the whole length, but I'm thinking to be on the safe side, it's probably best to replace the exposed top, and add a steel liner all the way down to join the boiler's flue. Is this something a homeowner can handle on his own? I'm a pretty handy guy, and know my way around a trowel and tin snips. How are these liners obtained? Can a flexible, stainless steel liner be used, like the one I installed for my pellet stove an ran up the same chimney (although a different vertical shaft and cap)?
Rust in Boiler Water
@ March 15, 2011 12:22 PM in Rust in Boiler Water
Pouring water in is an OK idea. Attaching a hose bib to the threads where you removed the main vent and sending a blast of clean water through the main, while simultaneously drain the boiler is a better one.Site Glass Replacement
@ March 8, 2011 9:07 AM in Replacing sight glass easy enough for steam newb?
It's easy enough to do. Yes.. Close both the upper and lower valves. Loosen the nuts. Slide the nuts, along with the rubber gaskets and metal washers towards the middle of the glass, and you'll be able to lift the glass up a bit to make room to pull the lower end away from the lower seating. Make sure that when you get the new glass, you get it cut to exactly the same length as the old one, and it's a good idea to replace the rubber and metal washers as well (although I've removed my site glass about 10 times to clean it and put it all back with the same washers). You can safely run the boiler without the site glass temporarily, but get that glass back on there ASAP; you don't want to be running that boiler for too long without a view to where your water level is.Fast Main Vent, Slow Rad Vents: For Even Distribution
@ February 12, 2011 10:51 AM in Fast Main Vent, Slow Rad Vents - How Come?
Thanks for that clear answer, Mike. It makes perfect sense. Thanks again.Fast Main Vent, Slow Rad Vents - How Come?
@ February 11, 2011 5:24 PM in Fast Main Vent, Slow Rad Vents - How Come?
All,Why is it that having as big a main vent as possible, while keeping the radiator vents more restricted is the optimal setup? In other words, wouldn't it be better to get the steam filling the radiators as quickly as possible, so as to keep the burner's firing time at a minimum? -I have a Burnham Megasteam 396, Beckett AFG burner. -Thanks
Fast Main Vent, Slow Rad Vents - How Come?
@ February 11, 2011 5:24 PM in Fast Main Vent, Slow Rad Vents - How Come?
All,Why is it that having as big a main vent as possible, while keeping the radiator vents more restricted is the optimal setup? In other words, wouldn't it be better to get the steam filling the radiators as quickly as possible, so as to keep the burner's firing time at a minimum? -I have a Burnham Megasteam 396, Beckett AFG burner. -Thanks
Water Level
@ January 17, 2011 12:40 PM in Water in glass is high.
When the boiler is cool, the water level shouldn't be at the very top of the sight glass; it should be somewhere towards the middle. To be sure, look online for the specs to your particular boiler. It sounds to me like those cold rads' vents are blocked, and are not allowing steam to enter. I'd shut the power to the boiler off for a while to let it cool down, and let the water in the returns (and maybe in the rads) return to the boiler. Then drain the water down (drain plug, maybe ball valve) until it's at the proper level, close the drain, fire it up again, sit and watch the boiler, making notes of what happens next (how long it takes heat to get to the rads, does it get to all rads, what's the water level doing throughout the cycle, is there banging, how long does it take for the water to return to proper level when boiler shuts itself off, does it shut off because the pressure setting is met... 1-1/2 lbs +-, or does the boiler shut off when the thermostat is satisfied)... Post your findings and you'll get better responses than mine. -ChrisSeems Hubby Did Everything Right
@ January 11, 2011 2:58 PM in Steam, one pipe radiator leaks at connections
I'd disconnect the radiator from the valve again, re-dope it with teflon tape-dope, and tighten it all up again. For the valve handle, try tightening the stem nut down a little more.. a little bit at a time (1/8th turn), and see if that helps out. If not, I'd replace the valve altogether. They're cheap enough.Steam Radiators (steel)
@ January 10, 2011 8:33 AM in steam radiators
Check out this site for new radiators. They're not cast iron.. They're made of steel. A lot easier to install (that'll help the labor costs) because they're a fraction of the weight of cast iron radiators. http://www.steamradiators.com/ I have two of these in my own house (installed them myself), and couldn't be happier. There are charts on the site for sizing and heat output.Vent
@ January 5, 2011 8:44 AM in adding CI BB to a single pipe system
I have a "Maid-O-Mist" I picked up at Home Depot. -- Same kind of vent you'd install on any steam radiator. Pick up a few of them, and test the different sizes out. They're fixed at a certain vent capacity (#4, #5, #6, A, B, C, etc.). Depending upon where in the house the radiator is (distance from boiler), you'll want to apply the right vent. You could also try an adjustable vent, which Home Depot also carries, but a plumbing supply shop will have a wider variety to choose from. I think conventional wisdom dictates that the radiators should all heat up at around the same time, so I believe the farther from the boiler a radiator sits, the faster (bigger hole) the vent you should use on the vent. This all assumes you already have an adequate main vent for the system (main vent is a large vent that's installed at the far end of the main pipe that supplies the steam to the riser pipes (risers feed the radiators). -Chris MOne Baseboard One Pipe
@ January 5, 2011 8:26 AM in adding CI BB to a single pipe system
I have a one pipe system, and I have a 2' baseboard in my bathroom.. one pipe. It works without any problems. -Chris MLWCO Adding Water
@ December 21, 2010 2:53 PM in LWCO frequently adding water
Where is the water level when the boiler is cold? Look on the sight glass. 1/2 way up? 1/4 way up? Make a note of where the water level is when the boiler's cold. Then see where the level is after the boiler fires and finishes heating the house, and the water returns to the boiler. Is it at the same level? Is it higher? Is it lower? Also.. when the boiler's steaming, go outside and look up at the chimney. Is there a white smoke coming out of the chimney? White smoke (steam) CAN mean a boiler leak, but it can also just signify moisture in the chimney burning off. Look for the boiler's installation manual (find it online in PDF) and find out what level the water's supposed to be at when the boiler's cold. Also.. You'd be better served by moving your post to the steam section, where the pros can help you troubleshoot the issue. Save yourself some further time by posting some pictures of the piping (steam piping and return piping) connected to your boiler.Yes.. Removing the Tap
@ December 16, 2010 8:50 AM in Add A Rad
Yes.. I meant remove the cap and tap into the existing rad where the vent is now tapped. But on 2nd thought, I think tapping into the BOTTOM of the existing rad (below the vent), adding an elbow and riser up to the new rad would make more sense. Here's a link to the rads I'm using. The existing one is a 72" X 24" , and the addition I'm adding will be a 24" X 24". http://www.steamradiators.com/pricing.htmlNo pics of my own at the moment.. I just re-visited this thread.
Thanks,
Get Adjustable Vents
@ December 9, 2010 9:45 AM in Boiling hot --- anything I can do without involving the landlord?
TRVs are going to be expensive. A cheaper route (I'd attempt cheaper first, since you're not wanting to involve your landlord, but you're paying for what is the the landlord's responsibility) is to replace the vents with adjustable vents, and set them accordingly. You can get them at a plumbing supply house. I'd also look into getting some handles for the valves so you can turn the rad(s) off altogether if ever necessary.Add A Rad
@ December 9, 2010 9:31 AM in Add A Rad
I have a 1 pipe steam system. I'd like to add a small radiator to an 8X12 room which is directly aboveanoother room which has a radiator already. Can I simply remove the vent on the existing radiator (which is tapped
into a 1" endcap), and from that opening, add an elbow and riser to extend upthrough the ceiling and into the room to supply a new radiator?
Here's a crude picture of what I want to do:
IIIIIIIIIIIIII
Proposed Addition ---> IIIIIIIIIIIIII
IIIIIIIIIIIIII
i
i
i
i
i
i
i
IIIIIIIIIIIIII -i IIIIIIIIIIIIII
IIIIIIIIIIIIII
i
i
i
Riser to existing -> i
i /-Main Vent
---------------------------
