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Joined on February 17, 2009

Last Post on August 27, 2014

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burner woes

@ January 6, 2014 8:49 PM in Odd burner recycle @ startup since control replaced with R7284

this should have been posted in the oil heating threads. Most likely, nothing was wrong with your old control other than ignorance. Frank (steamhead) is dead on here. Not a good idea to downfire that much, and especially to not test combustion. When the ignition drops out, so does the flame. That is why it keeps recycling-flame failure. Have him re-instal your old control, put the correct nozzle back in, replace the cad cell and leads, and do an efficiency test. Carlin EZ burners are very user friendly, if you know what you are doing

set LO

@ December 23, 2013 7:05 PM in low and high water temp setting

all the way down, about 100 degrees. When the thermostat call for heat, it will heat to the HI setting-180 degrees. If no one will need hot water, you will be OK and save a couple of bucks


@ December 23, 2013 6:59 PM in L8124 to l8148 wiring question

Did you replace this to mainly make the boiler cold start? That could have been done by removing a wire without changing the control. You need to attach the ZR to the temp block terminal. There should be 2 screw terminals. One has a blue wire, the other a red wire. It should be the red wire that you want to piggy back it with. I may be 50% right, but been a long time. That is a lousy control you are upgrading to. If you do this, make sure the HI limit shuts the burner off. If it is not right terminal, it will go into steam

Heat exchanger

@ December 21, 2013 5:02 PM in Heat exchanger split after 4 years, misadjusted burner the cause?

Heil furnace says it all. I would switch to Thermopride.

filling boiler

@ December 21, 2013 5:00 PM in purging hotwater boiler

How goes the battle Ron? This is only after the boiler is filled, and there is an air issue that I will purge that way. I rather feed slowly with the feed valve at first


@ December 21, 2013 8:14 AM in purging hotwater boiler

You need a transfer pump, I prefer Wayne, 3 old washing machine hoses, and a 5 gallon bucket. Transfer the water, or antifreeze from the purger, thru the pump, and back into the boiler. Watch the pressure, it will hit 30 with no problem. The boiler drain hose is the discharge side of the pump, acting as the boiler feed, the other hose is suction from the bucket, the 3rd hose is purging into the same bucket. Don't let the suction hose pick up the air, keep them apart. You will need to regulate the pressure by opening or closing the boiler drain. Let it pump around for a while. You will hear it quiet down. I would also check for any splits in the loop. a kick heater, or any other convector that may be set up as monoflow. That needs to be bled manually.  Good luck


@ December 21, 2013 8:01 AM in baseboard on monoflo system

You either need to bleed the baseboard, or open a closed valve. You should be able to determine if the bleeder is on the supply or return. If it is on the supply, with the circ off, lift up the bleeder end of the baseboard while bleeding it. Air rises

damn close Phil

@ December 19, 2013 8:35 PM in Importance of combustion gas testing?

You gotta know where you came from to know where you are going


@ December 19, 2013 8:23 PM in purging hotwater boiler

You have a big bubble, or possibly a split loop. I prefer to purge as if it had antifreeze, and use a pump to work the air out. The more fresh water you add, the more air you will eventually end up with in the system. Also saves the back from the bucket brigade

Merry Christmas Chris

@ December 17, 2013 10:58 PM in Boiler Pressure Spike while under heat

good luck to you

I will add

@ December 17, 2013 10:56 PM in Importance of combustion gas testing?

I have always used my eyes first, and then the tester. I won't bother testing a flame that looks to be impinging, lacks air, or is too "clean". Nothing wrong with knowing what the right fire "looks" like. I think techs should know what to look for, and not just flip the switch and jab a Testo or something in a smoke pipe hole. If he tested and shared the results, I would see no wrong done here. All manufactures setting are starting points. I like to see that starting point, the adjust and test from there personally. 

if you can find

@ December 17, 2013 10:44 PM in Oil line flare fittings

Beckett part# 5669, that is what you need. It will be a Honeywell delayed oil valve, 2 nozzle lines, 2 1/8" brass 1/2 flare elbows, and the body mounting kit. How about going with Clean-cut pumps? Also you asked about the supply line from the tank to burner. What will the firing rates be per burner? You said there would be a total of 3. You may need 1/2" line

I thought so

@ December 17, 2013 10:38 PM in Beckett AF Problem

figured it was the cad cell relay, but missed that it was a steamer, so asking about "T-T" must have been out of left field. Good luck


@ December 17, 2013 10:34 PM in One Pipe system - water hammer/lots of water from vents

am I seeing Taco oo7, and extrol tank? Is one a steam, and the other forced H/W?


@ December 15, 2013 4:47 PM in Beckett AF Problem

How is the "T-T" wired, or is it jumped? I would say bad 8184G. Go with a Genisys control. Jumping "F-F" and starting the burner will not trouble shoot it

do you mean

@ December 15, 2013 11:27 AM in weil-mclain WGO-4 boiler... can it do DHW?

does it have a tankless coil? If it is a WTGO-4 yes, if not, then it is a cast over. You can go indirect off that boiler. It would be like adding another zone.


@ December 15, 2013 10:47 AM in Hot water heat

it is monoflow, I would return it and get 3/4"

it depends

@ December 15, 2013 10:22 AM in Chimney Liner Needed for Oil Burner?

Is the chimney unlined? Has the unit been upgraded to one with a much lower stack temp? Signs of condensing? Any hidden plugs/caps up in the house where there was a stove? You should hire a chimney inspector, and not just a sweep to determine if it  is your best interest

fails to ignite

@ December 15, 2013 10:15 AM in Beckett Burner irregular trips

That could mean 2 things. Either there is no ignition on start up, or it just locks out occasionally.  Never easy giving advice just from a post. I am a Beckett fan, but like Carlin EZ-1 on certain units. They have come a long way from the old US Carlin, and 100 CRD's. I also like Riello, but they only run well on certain units. Also, non PSC motors with starting switches are not always easily trouble shot with an OHMs meter, and the new controls will not always help to trouble shoot by viewing the history. Sometimes you gotta just roll up your sleeves.

the energizer bunny thread

@ December 15, 2013 10:03 AM in System 2000 controler

I would say no. One power head per terminal

you should post this in the oil heat section

@ December 15, 2013 9:58 AM in Cad Cell Problem?

but I would say it is either a bad zone vave, or primary control. The cad cell eye will only lock it out, and not short cycle/on & off. I would call a tech. Pics will help also.  Good luck


@ December 14, 2013 4:29 PM in 10 seconds of oil smell when oil furnace starts up

crack in the heat exchanger? I would have it checked. Could be an inspection door, or clean-out access port, delayed ignition, rotted or disconnected smoke pipe, partially or plugged chimney, down draft, and countless other causes. Have it checked by a pro.
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