Heating Help

webster

@ November 4, 2010 9:11 PM in Oneida hot air furnace got a bunch of ?

in the 50's had strainers, but newer units don't. Is that a belt driven blower, or direct drive? Some older bearings (pillow block) had oilers, but most are just sleeved bearings that will eventually go bad, needing a new shaft also. Never just have the blower bearings replaced without replacing the shaft also. Direct drive the motor is inside the blower wheel itself, and one oiler is accessible if you are lucky. As far as pump pressure, It will most likely be 100 psi, unless there is a label on the burner stating otherwise. I think these were a product of Hallmark?

switch

@ November 3, 2010 9:53 PM in Emergency on/off boiler switch...

Emergency switch location always varies, but here in Mass, opening a basement  or boiler room door to access an emergency switch will not pass inspection, and must be red cover. I guess it is common sense. Fire or smoke in the basement/boiler room, I don't want to open the door to kill the power

wet kit

@ November 3, 2010 9:43 PM in high Co2 readings, wet tester

is the scale zero'd out? after the test, be sure to depress the top a few times to get all the fluid back down. Make sure the adjustable scale starts at zero, and that it can be-overfilling the tester will not allow you to adjust to zero. Digital is the way to go, but I give credit where credit is due that you are testing combustion with what you have on hand. I have Testo and still have some old wet kits. They get the same results, but the wet kit doesn't give you print outs and co test. Both are important. Good luck

what model

@ November 2, 2010 10:06 PM in Hot water

Peerless boiler do you have? What's the #'s on the aquastat?  The aquastat would be coil mounted, probably dark gray, either R8182, or 8124. There should be a low and hi limit inside. Do you have a tempering valve for the coil? Pics or model and #'s will help. I don't think you have a bad coil if it is making hot water when the boiler gets some temp on it. I doubt it's a cold start control, unless someone recently replaced it, or turned the low limit down too low

wet base

@ November 2, 2010 4:12 PM in Arcoleader Boiler A 1 4 P

It would have had some on the sides, but it is a wet base cast iron boiler, and only needs a target wall at best. Most important is whether there is an extra layer of brick laying on the bottom for the flame to impinge on, or was it removed. Have it checked before you start using it, just in case.

Eric is right

@ November 1, 2010 11:41 PM in Heat Loss Calc. For Forced Hot Water Replacement Boiler?

as is anyone else who pushes heat loss. One thing on the sizing for older homes was poor to no insulation, drafty windows, and so on. All those, if not upgraded, are taken into consideration on sizing. Best if the customer makes that investment first so energy conservation can truly be achieved. 

is it

@ November 1, 2010 11:31 PM in No heat on two radiators

a cast baseboard or copper finned?  Either can have a valve within the endcap. Also follow the flow from the basement. Sometimes you find the vent on the supply side of the system. Tricky to get the air out. Best to not run the circ to bleed if that's the case. If it is a copper fin, lift the vented end up, if it moves, the air will rise out with the vent cracked open

switch

@ November 1, 2010 11:27 PM in Emergency on/off boiler switch...

The reason for jacket mounted switches are for quick easy access while servicing. Whether it be gas or oil, it should be within arm's length from the burner for quick disconnect

heat loss

@ November 1, 2010 11:24 PM in Heat Loss Calc. For Forced Hot Water Replacement Boiler?

That has become the norm Joe,  The exact or close to size. Personally I prefer slight larger for future zoning, or an indirect in the future. Some home sizes or loads may never change, so best not to grossly oversize, as was done in the past. But i tell you, those were the most comfy homes in the dead of winter with big old cast iron boilers and cast radiators, just cost a fortune to run nowadays

one pipe

@ November 1, 2010 11:16 PM in No heat on two radiators

I'm assuming you mean monoflo. Sounds like the valve is off at the radiator. That's probably why water is coming out of the coin vent and not air. Some are 1/4 turn valves, and the stop is either rusted off or it's bent. If that's the case, and you can't tell what position it is in, run the heat and slowly rotate until you feel the temperature change

chimney

@ November 1, 2010 11:07 PM in Older Oil Fired Furnace & new chimney/power vent options

I would go for the metalbestos chimney over the power vent in you case. If you want, the external metal sectioned chimney can be boxed in with wood for a nicer appearance. Power vents pull a lot of air out of a home also. I think the old farm house probably isn't that tight, so that wouldn't have been the problem, just the longevity of a chimney over a power vent is a no brainer.

get professional help

@ October 30, 2010 9:02 AM in combustion set up on burnham V82

What head do you have on the AFG? I don't think it's the "F" style. I'ts will be either L or V heads. Adjustments on all 3 are crucial. Sounds like it is not set. The 5 setting that you are describing, is that the side band setting? What nozzle size/degree angle/spray pattern? If it is a 45 or 60, it's not an F head on there. You are always best to have it serviced by a licensed professional, not saying that you are not knowledgeable, just more of an exact science with newer equipment, and doesn't take much to create a sooty mess, not only in the boiler, but in the house.  

I'll echo that

@ October 30, 2010 8:50 AM in Oil Boiler build up… Cold start (and run?) problem

Change the aquastat, make it a warm start, by-pass would help, clean it in the spring after long winter use, and come fall, it won't look like that. The low limit set at 120 will not allow the circ to be pumping ice cubes thru the boiler 

righty tighty

@ October 25, 2010 8:08 PM in oil burner help

It works the same as any valve, clockwise will close it, only difference is the threaded center shaft will disappear when it closes. Sometimes you gotta lightly tap it down to seat it, if it doesn't spring closed.

shake, rattle and roll

@ October 24, 2010 10:19 AM in Rattle/Vibration at Start Up

There could be a few things going on here. First is the inspection door should be tightened, and not rattling. Second breech and overfire draft readings, last servicing, pre-purge enabled, nozzle size and correct plate installed, pump pressure, vac reading? There can be a few things that would cause this.

8148

@ October 23, 2010 7:59 PM in Honeywell L8148E Aquastat relay

this is a cold start control that has a 180 degree min hi limit setting. Go digital with it

Amtrol's bad rap

@ October 21, 2010 9:36 PM in Indirect water heaters

I always come back to Amtrol as i have tried most of them out there. My own Amtrol is 25 years and still going strong. As for warranty, most are LIMITED lifetime. It all turns out to be the same as the prorating game goes. The biggest problem was the Smart control issues and revisions. I just use the "Z" controlled tanks now. Vaughn/Thermaflo stone lined, worst tank I ever installed. 7 year warranty. On the other side of the coin, how many years are direct fired water heaters lasting? Not even 1/2 the life of an indirect, yet you don't hear much about it. I have always had good results on warranty issues with Amtrol, can't say the same about a few Phase/Plus that didn't seem pan out. Key to Amtrol is to remove the coil, steam clean it if needed, and REPLACE the gasket. Alot of the leakers start there. The lining can be inspected while the coil is out

careful

@ October 21, 2010 1:31 PM in indirect performance

of max water temps on tanks, Warranty will be void trying to increase output by cranking it up and using a mixing valve. 

I got some

@ October 19, 2010 9:54 PM in Energy Kinetics?

Tried my first one 26 years ago. That one and many of the others are still going strong. Maintenance is at least 1/2 the battle, like any other equipment

problem with this unit

@ October 19, 2010 7:57 PM in Buderus Starting problems

has been field set up procedure. I must echo boosting pump pressure, and breech/overfire draft as generally causing the recycling problem. Alot of guys have switched to NX on these 

I think

@ October 19, 2010 7:54 PM in "General" Zone valve

I have a couple of those replacement heads still kickin around, just don't think I have them in the field. The "o" ring would leak for the stem, and many were replaced mainly due to that., other than that, not the worst valves that were in service, I think that would have been Edwards or a Flair z/v

check them out

@ October 19, 2010 7:41 PM in Energy Kinetics?

Not a condensing boiler, or modulating, they come in 3 sizes. American designed and manufactured and have been around since late 70's. The System Manager does all the work. Low mass, circular combustion, quiet as a mouse, just to name a few. They have a great website, check em out.