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Joined on February 17, 2009

Last Post on April 20, 2014

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in Mass

@ November 15, 2010 3:24 PM in air in oil line

If the oil line is under the floor unprotected, it has to be upgraded by Sept 2011 with either a sleeved/coated line, or an OSV. A tiger loop does not remedy that law. Not sure that is what you meant Ice, but that's the way it reads. I still would like pics

oh yea

@ November 12, 2010 8:46 PM in Replace boiler?

That's a National US Radiator. Tough ole bird there. As ice said, a Weil Gold would one of many good choices for replacement, but if you don't have the cash to spend, burner upgrade, do some firebrick baffling of the passage ways, circ is optional. Parts are still available, but running cost is more for that pump. These are tough boilers, and probably has many more years of service if a few things are done. Definitely upgrade the controls, mainly the stack control to cad cell type. The brick chamber is probably ok, but lining it would be wise, of course this is only if you are keeping it. The current burner on it is poor. Always was and always will be. They had square electrodes in them, just some trivia for you


@ November 12, 2010 11:05 AM in Boiler is cycling but no demand for heat

If the domestic water is flowing thru the coil in the boiler 1st, it will come on as the temp drops. Also can't see pic with a shadow, but low limit should be about 110-120. Looks like 150?

post pics

@ November 12, 2010 11:02 AM in air in oil line

of the burner, tank and location. It could be one thing, it could be many

I would still

@ November 10, 2010 7:37 PM in Replace boiler?

like to see what he has for a boiler/burner. Not all old is inefficient. By today's standards it's outdated, but if that is the only reason to replace, I'm still curious on what he has. Some old boilers fitted with upgraded burners, controls, will come close enough to doing what a new one will without throwing thousands at it. 


@ November 8, 2010 2:01 PM in Replace boiler?

please. They will be of help


@ November 7, 2010 6:38 PM in combustion set up on burnham V82

In my 30 years doin this, I've tried them all. I prefer Delavan. I can't see them sending second rate or poorer quality nozzles out to be sold aftermarket. Too much liability. I do feel for you if you have no faith in the service out there, too far a run for me here on Cape Cod.As far as bad batches, a nozzle that small is always a tough one. Double, triple filtration is good. You said something about there being no strainer? Is it a Webster pump?

I think

@ November 7, 2010 6:18 PM in Buderus G115 system not behaving...

Slo was talking in a case where an elderly person could freeze to death. It could be as simple as programmable thermostat, to outdoor reset. Some people don't care what they sell, and to whom. When I sell and install, the person currently residing there is what matters, and what is offered as options. I have seen it too many times, the poor or elderly generally don't call when there is a problem. I've found them almost blue. If keeping it simple in those cases is what's best, then so be it. The elderly know how to work a T87. Replace that with today's digital with switches, key pads, and gizmos of the such, and they can be confused rather quickly. For us it's a no brainer


@ November 7, 2010 5:55 PM in Loud ticking sounds in corner fin tube

are pretty rigid, and I don't think that will help, unless it's not a perfect 90 degree corner, and the current set-up is creating a pressure point against the covers, etc. I still say cushion it somehow. Pull the covers off, and see what's going on in there

I think that's the only

@ November 7, 2010 5:51 PM in AF2 Burner motors

Part I haven't replaced on an AF-2. I've had a new motor "just in case" for as long as they have been around, which has gotta be at least 13-15 years? I can see where that would be a problem. I guess me needs to dread that day when it goes bad on the outside air intake/direct vented ones. 


@ November 7, 2010 12:22 PM in how to prime a two pipe system?

Slo is absolutely correct. Most people think that they are out of oil, and reset until sun up. If the filters are clean, by-pass plug installed, no air leaks, no valves on the return, it should pick up prime, unless the pump is gone due to no lubrication. Take the nozzle line off 1 end, and stick it in a can to see if it does have oil at the pump. If so, then you have other problems


@ November 7, 2010 12:16 PM in Loud ticking sounds in corner fin tube

someone jammed things together and soldered when installed, or you are missing the plastic cover that sits on the bracket inside the baseboard. 

gravity feed?

@ November 6, 2010 9:55 AM in Rattle/Vibration at Start Up

Where is your oil tank? underground, basement? Sounds like too much air, or lack of oil supply? Did they test combustion? Test results? The run is not excessive for the oil line, but if it is plugged, kinked, filters are dirty, strainer not replaced, bad nozzle, low pump pressure, wrong firing plate, and the list can go on, will cause this. If there is a negative draft at the breech, and over fire, the chimney, although needs lining if the liner is compromised, isn't  your problem. The fire should not be blue. Probably time to find someone who can find the problem for you.


@ November 5, 2010 5:39 PM in Fusable Oil Tank Valve

There is also OEM brand, or my preference Omco

was it

@ November 4, 2010 9:25 PM in Riello Lesson Learned

running but not firing when you got there, or did you have to reset it? Could be a few things goin on here. What control is on it? I haven't seen the latest Riello control, but maybe they have a priming mode like Honeywell/Beckett controls do that will run like 4 minutes without locking out. Curious here. I don't thing you are back feeding. I'd also check control mount plate for bent pins, crossed connections, etc 


@ November 4, 2010 9:11 PM in Oneida hot air furnace got a bunch of ?

in the 50's had strainers, but newer units don't. Is that a belt driven blower, or direct drive? Some older bearings (pillow block) had oilers, but most are just sleeved bearings that will eventually go bad, needing a new shaft also. Never just have the blower bearings replaced without replacing the shaft also. Direct drive the motor is inside the blower wheel itself, and one oiler is accessible if you are lucky. As far as pump pressure, It will most likely be 100 psi, unless there is a label on the burner stating otherwise. I think these were a product of Hallmark?


@ November 3, 2010 9:53 PM in Emergency on/off boiler switch...

Emergency switch location always varies, but here in Mass, opening a basement  or boiler room door to access an emergency switch will not pass inspection, and must be red cover. I guess it is common sense. Fire or smoke in the basement/boiler room, I don't want to open the door to kill the power

wet kit

@ November 3, 2010 9:43 PM in high Co2 readings, wet tester

is the scale zero'd out? after the test, be sure to depress the top a few times to get all the fluid back down. Make sure the adjustable scale starts at zero, and that it can be-overfilling the tester will not allow you to adjust to zero. Digital is the way to go, but I give credit where credit is due that you are testing combustion with what you have on hand. I have Testo and still have some old wet kits. They get the same results, but the wet kit doesn't give you print outs and co test. Both are important. Good luck

what model

@ November 2, 2010 10:06 PM in Hot water

Peerless boiler do you have? What's the #'s on the aquastat?  The aquastat would be coil mounted, probably dark gray, either R8182, or 8124. There should be a low and hi limit inside. Do you have a tempering valve for the coil? Pics or model and #'s will help. I don't think you have a bad coil if it is making hot water when the boiler gets some temp on it. I doubt it's a cold start control, unless someone recently replaced it, or turned the low limit down too low

wet base

@ November 2, 2010 4:12 PM in Arcoleader Boiler A 1 4 P

It would have had some on the sides, but it is a wet base cast iron boiler, and only needs a target wall at best. Most important is whether there is an extra layer of brick laying on the bottom for the flame to impinge on, or was it removed. Have it checked before you start using it, just in case.

Eric is right

@ November 1, 2010 11:41 PM in Heat Loss Calc. For Forced Hot Water Replacement Boiler?

as is anyone else who pushes heat loss. One thing on the sizing for older homes was poor to no insulation, drafty windows, and so on. All those, if not upgraded, are taken into consideration on sizing. Best if the customer makes that investment first so energy conservation can truly be achieved. 

is it

@ November 1, 2010 11:31 PM in No heat on two radiators

a cast baseboard or copper finned?  Either can have a valve within the endcap. Also follow the flow from the basement. Sometimes you find the vent on the supply side of the system. Tricky to get the air out. Best to not run the circ to bleed if that's the case. If it is a copper fin, lift the vented end up, if it moves, the air will rise out with the vent cracked open
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