Joined on February 17, 2009
Last Post on July 12, 2014
@ December 2, 2010 8:05 PM in I want to let everyone know I am recoveringA speedy recovery
@ December 2, 2010 8:03 PM in old moniflow maincap off the ends, or tie it back in? If it's no longer a monoflo loop, the "helper" circ will do nothing, I feel
@ December 2, 2010 7:57 PM in storing oilthat was much older than that. Throw an additive in and enjoy the warmth
@ December 2, 2010 7:56 PM in hesitating oil furnacebut could be starving for fuel. Enough of an air leak or restriction, it should lock-out at some point if flame failure is long enough. I'm thinking electrical, possibly a cad cell control with recycle feature that is going bad. Carlin control was good for doing just that
@ December 2, 2010 7:53 PM in LWCO necessary for residential oil-fired steam boiler in MA?I haven't run into a steamer that didn't have one as of yet. I would have the landlord make and keep it safe for you, or simply move out.
@ December 1, 2010 9:53 PM in Honeywell aquastat setpoint temperature shift?Check the control sensing bulb to make sure it is bottoming out in control well. The more they are out of the well, the less accurate they are
@ December 1, 2010 9:49 PM in Intermittent Rough Running Beckett AFGChange the 60 degree to 80. F heads run best with 80 degree spray angle nozzles.
@ December 1, 2010 9:22 PM in Replace B&G 100 with Tacoworst part of the job could be purging the system. There was 2 size flanges for B&G 100's, but chances are you have the right ones. They were smaller flanges early on
@ December 1, 2010 1:12 PM in hesitating oil furnacea Taco zone valve head, or a cad cell relay. Could be the aquastat, but unlikely.
@ November 29, 2010 8:58 PM in adding electroinic oil vave to older pumphave been code here for decades. If the pump check fails, wheres the oil going? into the chamber by gravity feed, and as Steam said, it has other pluses as well. A pumps check will open about 85 PSI. Not always the best light off. Why not get it up to full speed and pump pressure then open the door. How can you pre or post purge without one?
@ November 28, 2010 6:02 PM in adding electroinic oil vave to older pumpif it is installed as a field kit, then you can easily bypass it should it fail. We used to use 1/8" black street elbows and about an 1/8"x 2" nipple to install them. In that case, you have some work to do if it fails, but they rarely do. Sounds like an older burner, and probably running 100 PSI, which is how the new pumps come. I would also recommend someone who knows how to do this, and to set the new pump, if that's the way you go, to what you have now
@ November 28, 2010 5:55 PM in circulator issuesIt is not wired right. The end switches from the zone valves should be going to "T T". The external step down is opening the valves, but I don't think the end switches are actually making the "T T" circuit for the control? Does the burner fire when the thermostats call for heat?
@ November 28, 2010 1:04 PM in What is a "Pony Pump"Walsh, they are "Proven Pumps". That is the manufacture that I have always ordered parts by.
@ November 28, 2010 12:54 PM in What is a "Pony Pump"That was how we got the old D-8's Caterpiller a runnin. Was always a task doggin it in to turn over the main engine. I do know what Walsh is talkin about. This is how I pump antifreeze into boilers, drain them down for replacement/repair, or just to get them purged without adding more water into the mix. I have found that upper floor zones like to be purged by pump. I no longer use the "Pony Pump" brand. The impellers don't hold up, and you are lucky to get 15 PSI out of them. I like the Wayne pumps. Just gotta watch the PSI, they will pop the relief valve quick like.
@ November 28, 2010 10:05 AM in honeywell 8184Gstill have had problems with the "updated" tube assemblies on NX. Only fix I found to work was to gun mount the cad cell eye/holder. Takes a couple of extra seconds to remove the gun for servicing, but put an end to the call backs due to ohm readings.
@ November 28, 2010 10:00 AM in burner keeps going out on safty evry 5to 6 hoursfrom simple adjustments, to motor, control, puff switch if equipped, fan prover if power vented, pump and or coupling, transformer and or electrodes, resistor if older delayed oil valve, plugged/restricted oil supply-line, etc. Could be a lot of possibilities. Best to call a tech to check it out.
@ November 28, 2010 9:50 AM in adding electroinic oil vave to older pumpAt one time it was cheaper to add the delayed oil valve to the pump, but the price right now is getting close to the cost of a Clean-Cut pump. Depending on the age, I'd do the new pump. I can't remember, but I think the Beckett pump comes with both plugs. One has the built in delay, the other is the basic plug for replacement.
@ November 28, 2010 9:44 AM in circulator issuesmore pics. Is there an external transformer for the zones? The one in the control may not be enough. I'd like a close up of the "T T" terminals. I think that is where part of the problem is. Also pics of the zone valves, and any exposed wiring running to and from them.
@ November 27, 2010 3:06 PM in circulator issuesDoes the relay pull in when "T T" is jumped or thermostat calls? Are there zone valves with end switches?. I'd like to see some pics. There is a wiring problem most likely with the "T T" side
@ November 27, 2010 9:25 AM in wiring diagramstill have them in the field and on the shelf
@ November 27, 2010 9:21 AM in circulator issuesat the control, or did you connect at the circ junction box? Check continuity on both hot/ground wires after you disconnect both ends.
@ November 27, 2010 9:16 AM in circulator issueswhere you hot wired the circ and it ran in your posts, now I do