Joined on February 17, 2009
Last Post on August 27, 2014
@ December 6, 2010 9:35 PM in miller hot air problemsclean them is to start dismantling
@ December 5, 2010 9:46 PM in No flow in one circuit of hydronic heating system?I've seen flowchecks stick closed, B&G impellers rot away, low pressure on boiler, or just a lot of air. Try to manually open the flowcheck to see if it is stuck, make sure the pump is running, check the drive coupling also. The red plastic ones were known for cracking and wouldn't turn the bearing. Check the boiler pressure. It could be a few things. Good luck
@ December 5, 2010 9:39 AM in Intermittent Rough Running Beckett AFGthat an AFG won't work on the V-8, There is little to no difference between the boilers. I have mounted AFG's to V-8's when customer wanted block only warranty replacement, and they ran as a Beckett should.
@ December 5, 2010 9:36 AM in old furnacepics would help to identify it. Is it a Mark 3? What info do you need?
@ December 2, 2010 10:00 PM in Questionmodel do you have? Those settings sound good. Does this boiler also have a tankless coil that provides your hot water? The 180 would be the high limit setting, and the 160 would be the low limit. If you have a tankless, the low limit temp setting is what it will maintain. The hi limit temp setting is what The boiler will end up at the end of a heat cycle. That is what will increase your baseboard output temps.
@ December 2, 2010 8:09 PM in What type of baseboard heater is this?(Pic attached)Looks like a cast iron core only run thru a steel jacket. I think American Standard had something like this, but definitely not full cast iron baseboard lookin at that pic
@ December 2, 2010 8:05 PM in I want to let everyone know I am recoveringA speedy recovery
@ December 2, 2010 8:03 PM in old moniflow maincap off the ends, or tie it back in? If it's no longer a monoflo loop, the "helper" circ will do nothing, I feel
@ December 2, 2010 7:57 PM in storing oilthat was much older than that. Throw an additive in and enjoy the warmth
@ December 2, 2010 7:56 PM in hesitating oil furnacebut could be starving for fuel. Enough of an air leak or restriction, it should lock-out at some point if flame failure is long enough. I'm thinking electrical, possibly a cad cell control with recycle feature that is going bad. Carlin control was good for doing just that
@ December 2, 2010 7:53 PM in LWCO necessary for residential oil-fired steam boiler in MA?I haven't run into a steamer that didn't have one as of yet. I would have the landlord make and keep it safe for you, or simply move out.
@ December 1, 2010 9:53 PM in Honeywell aquastat setpoint temperature shift?Check the control sensing bulb to make sure it is bottoming out in control well. The more they are out of the well, the less accurate they are
@ December 1, 2010 9:49 PM in Intermittent Rough Running Beckett AFGChange the 60 degree to 80. F heads run best with 80 degree spray angle nozzles.
@ December 1, 2010 9:22 PM in Replace B&G 100 with Tacoworst part of the job could be purging the system. There was 2 size flanges for B&G 100's, but chances are you have the right ones. They were smaller flanges early on
@ December 1, 2010 1:12 PM in hesitating oil furnacea Taco zone valve head, or a cad cell relay. Could be the aquastat, but unlikely.
@ November 29, 2010 8:58 PM in adding electroinic oil vave to older pumphave been code here for decades. If the pump check fails, wheres the oil going? into the chamber by gravity feed, and as Steam said, it has other pluses as well. A pumps check will open about 85 PSI. Not always the best light off. Why not get it up to full speed and pump pressure then open the door. How can you pre or post purge without one?
@ November 28, 2010 6:02 PM in adding electroinic oil vave to older pumpif it is installed as a field kit, then you can easily bypass it should it fail. We used to use 1/8" black street elbows and about an 1/8"x 2" nipple to install them. In that case, you have some work to do if it fails, but they rarely do. Sounds like an older burner, and probably running 100 PSI, which is how the new pumps come. I would also recommend someone who knows how to do this, and to set the new pump, if that's the way you go, to what you have now
@ November 28, 2010 5:55 PM in circulator issuesIt is not wired right. The end switches from the zone valves should be going to "T T". The external step down is opening the valves, but I don't think the end switches are actually making the "T T" circuit for the control? Does the burner fire when the thermostats call for heat?
@ November 28, 2010 1:04 PM in What is a "Pony Pump"Walsh, they are "Proven Pumps". That is the manufacture that I have always ordered parts by.
@ November 28, 2010 12:54 PM in What is a "Pony Pump"That was how we got the old D-8's Caterpiller a runnin. Was always a task doggin it in to turn over the main engine. I do know what Walsh is talkin about. This is how I pump antifreeze into boilers, drain them down for replacement/repair, or just to get them purged without adding more water into the mix. I have found that upper floor zones like to be purged by pump. I no longer use the "Pony Pump" brand. The impellers don't hold up, and you are lucky to get 15 PSI out of them. I like the Wayne pumps. Just gotta watch the PSI, they will pop the relief valve quick like.
@ November 28, 2010 10:05 AM in honeywell 8184Gstill have had problems with the "updated" tube assemblies on NX. Only fix I found to work was to gun mount the cad cell eye/holder. Takes a couple of extra seconds to remove the gun for servicing, but put an end to the call backs due to ohm readings.
@ November 28, 2010 10:00 AM in burner keeps going out on safty evry 5to 6 hoursfrom simple adjustments, to motor, control, puff switch if equipped, fan prover if power vented, pump and or coupling, transformer and or electrodes, resistor if older delayed oil valve, plugged/restricted oil supply-line, etc. Could be a lot of possibilities. Best to call a tech to check it out.