Joined on March 15, 2005
Last Post on October 24, 2013
@ October 24, 2013 8:37 PM in Strange residue in Giannoni heat exchangerI find the mouse turd/coffee grounds more abundant in boilers that condense regularly; like those with outdoor temp compensation and connected to radiant systems. The grounds are laying on the top of the burner, and piled up in the bottom of the exchanger. Boilers set to 180 degrees don't pile up near as much. But they get stubborn scale buildup.
@ October 24, 2013 8:30 PM in Troubles with the Burnham ES2Apparently there was a string of defective spark/sense probes by Honeywell, and replacing them with off-the-shelf Honeywell probes cured it. Administrator: You can delete this post.
@ October 16, 2013 10:31 PM in Troubles with the Burnham ES2Any contractors figured out the cure for the low flame sense value? The last three ES2 I installed all had the same darn symptom; where the flame strength value decreases as the boiler warms up, until the control drops out the main burner, repeating several times and then locking out. The wholesaler sends out replacement pilot assemblies which sometimes cures it, and sometimes not. All these are Nat. Gas models and operate at "high" altitude of about 8000 ft. above sea level. I'm not the only guy experiencing this.
@ July 6, 2013 8:52 AM in Professional?There was a certification spectacular at Red Rocks, where four or five Reps conducted simultaneous but separate classes. There was an introduction by one of the State Inspectors, we had the Pizza and Soda, then we learned all about the need and requirement for those ultra-expensive nail guards and bend supports and termination parts. At the end, a quick exam was administered in each area, and a Certification handed over (except one brand, they were going to mail it but never did). I still have the cards, but only used one of them one time. I think three of those companies have disappeared or changed names or merged.
The theme was promotion of labor cost savings. A quick calculation showed me the materials costs negated any labor savings, and in view of the flimsy appearance of the tube and connectors, I decided to not use it. I fix it sometimes, though. Had one last summer where some type of electrical ground fault sizzled a hole in the CSST. Scared hell out of the occupants when their basement filled up with LP gas.
@ July 5, 2013 8:50 AM in Professional?When I went for certification about ten-fifteen years ago, one of the product reps ASSURED us that these products would NEVER be sold retail at the big box stores. I thought it sounded like a lie at the time, so I noted it in my mental file. I don't use it myself, but the company I work for uses it all the time. The younger guys won't thread pipe unless somebody insists on it. It cuts into extended break time to much.
@ May 18, 2013 8:17 AM in is it a problem connecting a larger gas pipe to a smaller gas pipe?A gas distribution system must supply adequate pressure (hence volume) for each appliance connected. Therefore it starts out larger and reduces as it branches off. Get a copy of the Gas Pipe Sizing charts from the Code Body authority in your area. Don't get caught installing gas pipe without a permit.
@ May 3, 2013 8:15 PM in WarmRite Ipex Control BoardIt was a 356 of sorts. I put in a new one and all is well. There will be a special place reserved in the low-rent section of @ell for those guys at Kitec. Would it be too much expense to give maybe 3-4 inches of slack in the wire lengths so an old guy doesn't have to spend two hours on his hands and knees in a filthy crawlspace trying to stretch those dinky wires? Good ridance. Gimme back the money I spent on Special Tools, too.
@ May 1, 2013 4:02 PM in Expansion tank replacement with a what is that?Indeed, it is a fill valve and pressure reducing valve. The tank will have a straight thread with a shoulder and seal; but a new tank will have 1/2' (tapered) pipe thread, and may not work. They are sold as a unit most of the time. I usually junk it if it doesn't allow flow, and replace it with a fill valve/backflow combination, using valves before and after to allow easier service. Not for DIY unless you study up on it first!
@ April 30, 2013 6:42 PM in WarmRite Ipex Control BoardI'm needing the controller for one of these panels, it looks like a Tekmar mixing control or snowmelt control (356 or 656?) except rebadged. I believe it is Pulse Width Modulation for the injection pump rather than variable speed. Has OD sensor and supply sensor, powers a System circ and injection mix circ, and demands heat from a Buderus C.I. boiler on a primary loop. Should I just switch to a 356? The injection pump is a Grundfos 15-52.
@ April 12, 2013 10:38 PM in pressure paradox?I keep a couple gauges with hose adapters in my bag at all times.The tridicators are only accurate for about 2 days after installed new. The very old ones seem to last forever, while the newest ones are crap and cannot be trusted. Plus they are way overpriced. So I check with one gauge, and if it doesn't correlate, I check with another. I just use cheap throw-away variety gauges because they freeze and get broken, etc. But never trust just one gauge. Sometimes tridicator gauges will be accurate enough, but read 10 or 15 pounds more than actual pressure. It is not possible for the pressure to be that much different in two locations!
@ April 3, 2013 9:21 PM in Taco VortexYou might want to try that "jacking out" method and maybe post a video! I tried it today and the 1/2" NPT pipe I used only expanded the base of the Hy-Vent making it even tighter than before. I don't buy it and I call BS!!. The dowel method might work but I have not tried it yet as I don't have much dowel stock on my truck. You guys need to re-engineer that damn Hy-Vent and the way it is sealed so tight into the cap. They don't leak at the threads at the base, the little needle/seat is what leaks, and it would be nice if we could get the cap with the float/needle/seat as an assembly and not have to screw around with that cockamamie overtightened and epoxied 3/4 oversized Hy-Vent. Sorry. But I feel better now. Rob
@ March 19, 2013 9:19 PM in LAARS EBP combo boiler, should be an easy fix, checked everything, ???There may be a mixing device to limit the outgoing temp to a safe level, normally cold in one port, hot in one port, and tempered out third. If all your flow is restricted, maybe that device is stuck or clogged.
@ March 19, 2013 9:12 PM in LAARS EBP combo boiler, should be an easy fix, checked everything, ???I think you have an orifice on the incoming cold to throttle down the flow so it has time to heat the water as it passes thru the exchanger. Try turning on all the hot valves in the house at one time. Is the flow diminished from what it once was? Use your hands to feel the pipes going in an out of the exchanger. Be careful! Should be extremely hot to and from the boiler, cold in and hot out on the domestic side. The by-pass valve should completely block heat from going to the heating side, and the system pump should stop. The orifice is surprisingly small in diameter, and it could have debris lodged. Good luck!
@ March 14, 2013 9:32 PM in propane wall mount boilerHave somebody check the outdoor reset temp compensation settings. I don't think it's possible to set too high...so I agree with that grouch Icesailor....you probably need a new board. Good news! they are cheaper than the boards in other brands.
@ March 14, 2013 9:24 PM in propane wall mount boileris not what you want. If the on-board control is working, it will slow the firing rate so that doesn't happen. But it has to interpret the readings from the sensors to do so. There are sensors that read outgoing water temperature and exhaust temperature,and they can be checked easily with a digital ohmmeter. The Control will slow down the fan speed (and reduce the amount of fuel brought in) as needed to avoid overheating. Cleaning the Heat Exchanger is important, especially in between the tiny gaps between the coils. The combustion must be correct and an analyser must be used to get it right. Some factory cleaning instructions are nearly useless. I like the Trinity because of it's simplicity and initial price (extra pumping notwithstanding). That being said, for those that want something less finicky about flow rates I recommend Prestige.
@ February 22, 2013 7:31 AM in Fox news says solar doesn't work here..CNN had a reporter that thought meteors were studied by meteorologists, and that the increase in meteor activity could be caused by Global Warming!
@ February 17, 2013 4:21 PM in post purge of system using zone valvesYer gonna hafta have a way to trigger it ONLY during post-purge, or else it remains open any time the system pump runs. This should be incorporated into the boiler hookups. Maybe it is and I missed it?
@ February 17, 2013 8:49 AM in post purge of system using zone valvesNowhere to shed some heat except what dissipates from the manifold piping. Need to open the 'best' zone (like basement concrete) during post purge.
@ February 6, 2013 6:58 AM in New Thermostat 3 Wire Hot Water Boiler Systembut down by the boiler there should be Zone Valves (look like grey boxes with wires going to them).
@ February 5, 2013 7:20 AM in New Thermostat 3 Wire Hot Water Boiler SystemAre they White-Rogers 1311 style perhaps? If so, 4 is power open, 6 is power closed, and 5 is common. But not all digital stats will work with these. You can call the tech support number on the literature and find out. Some stats will work after changing one of the settings in the setup program. White-Rogers has a digital that is compatible.
@ February 3, 2013 11:32 AM in Taco VortexI put a 3/4 pipe nipple in with a 3/4 x 1/8 bell reducer, because of the recessed tapping. The air vents look similar but some of the caps with the float/needle have different sealing methods, and you can't just swap them over. All of them have a similar sized hole for the air to escape. Most of them have been plugged up for years. Plus they are over-priced.
@ February 2, 2013 8:26 AM in Taco VortexI called Taco and asked them WTH?I was told your supposed to get a hardwood dowel that fits snug inside the air eliminator to prevent it from collapsing when you wrench it loose. I then use a brass 3/4 x 1/8 bushing and an ordinary air vent that can be changed easily.