Joined on October 13, 2004
Last Post on December 2, 2013
@ December 2, 2013 10:53 PM in Carbon Monoxide Issues - HELP!Needs to get a rep with your installer out there ASAP! Your installer should be taking care of this not you. Let alone have you trouble shoot, and try different things. I can't believe what I'm reading. buderus are you fellas reading this!
@ December 2, 2013 1:35 PM in Thoughts on dense packing plaster walls?So long as the boiler is in good shape. Then when you are ready for a new one heat loss won't need to be compensated for.
@ December 1, 2013 10:00 AM in two questionsProper pipe support, and isolation can cause noise .
Is this problem a recent development?
@ December 1, 2013 9:57 AM in two questionsCheck your system pressure, it should be at 15 psi. You should not be losing pressure unless there is a leak in the system, or it has excessive amounts of trapped air.
This is all who ever is checking on things needs to know. As long as the pressure gauge,reads 15 psi you don't need to add water.
Back to Bobs tip if the psi is low it can cause entrained air to come out of solution, and or circulator to cavitate. Causing noise.
Can you narrow it down to the blower motor, or noises piping?
@ December 1, 2013 9:32 AM in radiant and wood floorVery reason radiant floors running wild. Most hardwood manufactures cover their butts now
By claiming certain species are radiant friendly or not. Because they never know what some radiant knuckle heads will do.
Bottom line is there are a lot of things that can cause wood flooring to buckle, shrink, twist,etc. Humidity, proper acclimation before installation, fastening, poor subfloor, wood species, type of milling plain, or quarter sawn, etc. All plays a role.
Basically the narrower the flooring the better. Some species are just more dimensionally stable.
So with your future staple up just be sure you design with lowest possible average water temps. This can only happen if the load is low, by using heat transfer plates, and not having to push heat through a lot of existing floor layers.
@ December 1, 2013 9:21 AM in cut my bill by 70%,Thanks Rod for your helpSwitching from oil to NG was a 75%'reduction after efficiency, and btu content is accounted for.
That's one hell of a savings!
@ November 30, 2013 1:05 PM in Maximizing efficiency of a mod con questionlend themselves well. Taking into account system and boiler needs for flow rates piping direct can be actually a better marriage in certain cases.
@ November 30, 2013 11:57 AM in Maximizing efficiency of a mod con questionCarl,
Conclusion to me is that efficiency is an ever floating percentage in a heating cycle. With a mod/con boiler.
Depending on emitter type, you may start out at 98% and end up at 89% towards the end of a heat call. As return water temps climb as emitters warm up. Proving particularly true in low load parts of the heating season.
@ November 29, 2013 8:59 PM in Maximizing efficiency of a mod con questionSeems to be the obsession. Remember modulation is the real savings compared to a bang bang CI boiler. Getting it to condense as much as possible adds a couple of points to the efficiency.
As for why manufacturers don't throw in a variable speed pump who knows, may be up and coming offerings gotta save some surprise for next unveiling. The big V has been for awhile now.
Or it could be they already gave us a 40 mpg car, and we want to make it get 42. Or 350 horse, and we want to get 375 hp.
The betterment of technology is never ending, but some things are a bit anal for the ROI, or adding complexity to the system.
Technology is but a commodity anymore until the next great stride takes its place. Just like computers, t.v., and other electronic peripherals. What you bought this year will certainly be out dated next year or the year after.
But in the end if it's experimenting that fulfills your need to say you did all you can then by all means do so, and share your findings.
@ November 29, 2013 6:09 PM in two questionsNot afterburner. Basically the unit has a fan that creates its own draft for venting verses gravity vented via chimney.
Your pressure relief valve must have popped due to maybe a faulty. Pressure reducing valve slowly filling the system, or a faulty expansion tank, unless you mean the pressure reducing valve leaked.
If you are going to NOT have the water on to the boiler it should be equipped with a low water cut off switch. It should have one no matter what anyway. This locks the boiler out in the event the system loses such as you experienced, and will not allow the boiler to fire with out water...... Bad situation! Like explosive situation.
@ November 29, 2013 1:36 PM in Radiant LetdownMake sure what ever you are shooting has black tape on it or you will get false readings. Especially shiny objects such as copper piping.
Head loss is longest loop plus supply and return piping to the circ.
The concern for the mix valve is to allow the boiler to run higher temps yet allow the floor to receive cooler water. Otherwise the boiler will live a short life. Ci boilers need min 130 return temps to burn off acidic combustion condensate or it will eat away the ci heat exchanger. Unless it's been cleaned you may notice flakes in the pan under the burners this is a sign of condensation.
@ November 28, 2013 8:32 PM in Carbon Monoxide Issues - HELP!Sorry for the long form, but sometimes a link just does not cut it. Dangerous stuff!
@ November 28, 2013 1:09 PM in The Hydronic Formula and it's limitationsWhile sometimes painful to incorporate into an existing system it's out come is well worth it. I'm sure the Eco circs helped bunches also. Along with reverse return piping.
@ November 28, 2013 12:28 PM in Happy Thanksgivikahh !!!and yourzzz. A happy Thanks giving Mark, and everyone else. Yes a lot to be thankful for!
Where did you find that out?
@ November 27, 2013 10:27 AM in Radiant LetdownOne more variable to weed out, and that is if rooms have high rvalue floor coverings? That would increase response time and cause set point over shoot.
@ November 27, 2013 9:52 AM in Radiant LetdownJean you don't have a ci boiler that's why
@ November 27, 2013 6:25 AM in Radiant LetdownSo good boiler is set for altitude.
Slab insulation questionable.
Outdoor reset part of the system.
No mix valve for radiant.
Possible miss matched circ sizing.
No air removal device. Possible air bound loops.
Not piped primary/secondary.
High fuel consumption.
Over shoot on setpoint.
Long burn times to reach set point.
I would take SWEI up on his offer . Get a HYDRONIC pro in there to plumb mix valve in for boiler protection, and circ sizing along with fine tuning outdoor reset. Possible other piping issues such as boiler not plumbed primary/secondary.
@ November 26, 2013 9:38 PM in air collecting in one baseboard onlyThat there is an air bubble upstream of that radiator that is hung up in the piping, or micro bubbles all over in the piping up stream of the problematic rad like those very bubbles in a soda bottle that cling to the sides of the bottle. The dish soap will set them free to a return trajectory to the spiro vent ....... Trust me it works. Think like air, and water , and become one.
@ November 26, 2013 6:31 PM in air collecting in one baseboard onlyIn case you are wondering how air gets in the system. It's already there. If your system was completely drained, and fresh water added after new base board was installed, and properly purged on initial filll it's air coming out of solution as the new water is heated.
Do you have an air removal device in the system at the boiler such as a spiro vent?
Is the air removal device properly located, and piped?
Dish soap added in the system will help facilitate removal due to the surfactants breaking surface tension of trapped air. A little dab will do ya teaspoon or so.
@ November 26, 2013 5:59 AM in Radiant LetdownHeat loss calculation room by room. Rule number one. Without it you have no idea what water temps, and flow rates you need to off set your heat loss, and verify your tubing layout is going to work.
Your burning of 10-15 therms a day in a 12 hour period. at what outdoor temps, and what was the indoor set points of the thermostats? Was this an average therm usage off the gas bill? That ends up being 21 btus a sf using gross input average over a 24 hour period.
You say you have a slab. Can you verify it was insulated both perimeter, and underneath?
Can you verify the supply, and return temperatures from the boiler?
Can you verify supply, and return temperatures of the radiant loops?
Are you setting back the system? Radiant works best being left at one set point.
11 loops for 2500 sf works out to 1' centers with average loop lengths of 227' which is fine. IF the heat loss calc allows it.
No mixing valve on the boiler is a problem to the boiler it will condense, and have a short life 3 months a year or not. Neighbors not having one or not.
Lastly some pictures of the boiler room showing piping, and manifolds, thermostat types.
Being that boiler is at 6000 feet was a combustion test done? If over 2000' in the manual some changes need to be made to the combustion. Was this verified to be correct. If not your boiler is not going to put out it's rated output. 140000 btus is gross input. 117000 btus is doe capacity, and 102000 btus is net IBR. Is this a series 1 or 2 cga?
I have a feeling your boilers combustion may not be set right seriously debating the boilers output. Causing high gas usage.
Do you get a lot of solar gain during the day?
Finally floor sensing thermostats will help. Along with outdoor reset if you do not have it.