Joined on October 13, 2004
Last Post on December 8, 2013
@ November 22, 2013 1:23 PM in Radiant floor heat not heating properlyEvery time a 30 year experienced knuckle head says he's been doing it like this for 30 years. "Then you have been doing it wrong for 30 years"
They are out there in EVERY TRADE !!!
It's hard to believe how many people I have been across that wing it for so long, and still manage to hold a career in their field.
@ November 21, 2013 9:21 AM in Hydronic HellYour heat loss?
What water temps you are using now?
What the difference in temps between supply and return of the loops are?
Tube lay out must be about 1' centers.
@ November 21, 2013 9:10 AM in Hydronic HellAnd an open system with non o2 barrier tubing.
Yeah it's a mess. 1/2" tubing should be 300' loops need to break the two 1000' loops up into 4 loops each 1000' loop. Not impossible.
There has been use of a reversing valve that switches flow direction every few minutes but 1000' is a bit much.
Honestly I would abandon and go over the top with a new tubing ( o2 barrier pex) layout. Was slab insulated?
Losing an 1" of head room if slab was previously insulated would be better than trying to make what you have work.
@ November 20, 2013 10:10 PM in Heat tranfer plates, and as much insulation as you can.
2" of what type of floor detail?
3/4 sub floor fatty padding, and pile carpet....... Bad idea
@ November 20, 2013 5:48 AM in Old baseboards....Flat with no fins....can't heat house to 67 degreesThis is a new poster on this thread which originally started back in January 2013 may not have the baseboards the orginal thread poster is showing.
To CDAYTON are the baseboards you have the same type as the original poster that started this thread describes?
@ November 19, 2013 9:25 PM in Old baseboards....Flat with no fins....can't heat house to 67 degreesBlocked by furniture, or is carpeting blocking lower portion from getting air.
@ November 18, 2013 8:28 PM in monofloSome pics man of the near boiler piping. Help us out dude. This is like trying to draw with out pencil, and paper.
@ November 18, 2013 2:39 PM in monofloTwo way does not allow you to mix down supply temps for radiant loop.
@ November 18, 2013 11:50 AM in monofloRight if they are oversized bath would suffer. If under sized bath would overheat.
Thought I read it was a GE boiler probably oversized to begin with.
@ November 18, 2013 10:19 AM in monofloSomething but if the RF loop is its own zone what are short cycling odds of the boiler for such a small loop?
I was thinking if the RF loop is slaved with the mono flow loop at least the boiler may not short cycle.
@ November 18, 2013 1:23 AM in monofloTowel tad,for bath will be on mono flow stat. And are you making the RF a zone on its own,or slaving it with the mon flow stat.
part of me thinks let the reset curve on the I series handle the floor. May be some dialing in. But thinking if it is the only zone that calls boiler will short cycle. So part of me says slave to the mono flow zone, and maybe suffer some floor warming in the shoulder season.
@ November 17, 2013 10:05 PM in monofloIs the rest of the home controlled by a central thermostat?
@ November 17, 2013 8:11 PM in Oil-Filled RadiatorJust for piece of mind follow ice sailors advice. Being there is not any type of hvac lord knows what lurks at the service panel. Hate to see ya burn the house down to stay warm.
NEVER up size a fuse or breaker to prevent it from blowing, or tripping. Fuses are sized to protect the wiring in a circuit overload condition. 14 gauge wire no bigger than 15 amps. 12 gauge is 20 amps.
@ November 17, 2013 6:50 PM in monofloSuggested.
Glad to see the owner allowing you to try and get it right Paul.
Hopefully a nice towel warmer won't be a problem piping into the original rad piping that was there before.
I think with a floor that can perform warming comfort, and a rad to supplement will turn a mess into elegance. Hope it all works out, just make sure the rad is big enough for what ever the actual heat loss calcs at.
@ November 17, 2013 6:34 PM in Oil-Filled RadiatorThe oil filled radiator.
Convection will move the heat just like hot water radiators, or base board.
I think you may be trying to expect to much in a short warm up period.
Don't know which model you have but some oil filled models can be run at 750 watts with the flip of a switch on the side.
Try running for longer periods using the thermostat setting on the unit. It will shut off when desired temp is reached.
If the lights flicker when the unit is turned on it's an indication that the circuit is overloading. Try a different outlet which may have a lesser load. Or unplug some of the loads on the circuit you are using.
You probably have a 15 amp circuit, and a 1500 watt heater is maxing that circuit out if anything else is on the same circuit.
@ November 17, 2013 3:39 PM in New Construction Tankless Heatingis the return for the supplies of the radiant loops.
Deduction from what can be seen is 7 radiant supply loops off of the 3 manifolds, and 7 returns on one manifold. if this is true then the tubing changes color somewhere with a splice.
@ November 17, 2013 1:18 PM in System LayoutJumper with the right boiler efficiency is the gain. With a modcon, and even ci boilers you are making DHW at a higher efficiency than say a tank style, and even instantaneous WH.
@ November 17, 2013 9:00 AM in System LayoutWhat's the deal?
I don't recall reading he did not want to spend the money on a good system. He simply wants to design the cheapest most efficient system possible.
Everyone has a budget.
@ November 16, 2013 12:36 PM in monofloIf the heat loss is flawed then see what it is no? Who shelled out 9k?
Should this not be the first step to see if what Paul wants to do is in vein to begin with?
Right now Paul is asking for a band aid, and everyone is offering one. The thing is the cut might run clear up his shirt sleeve, and we can only see the wound on his hand so what size band aid?
I'm like Weez to many unknown variables gotta see the whole hand.
9k heat loss is not impossible with a three sided room 3 large windows over a crawl space......depends again more unknowns.
Paul if 30% of your work is cleanup is this what you really want to do? These guys are going to keep doing sub par systems so long as someone is there to fix them. You need to reverse that role!
@ November 16, 2013 10:31 AM in monofloI think there will be unintended consequences to the rest of the system.
I think 80 Lin. Ft. Of 1/2" pex for 144 sf 9000k heat loss realizing there is cabinets shower bath tub taking floor area is under radiated.
Question is Paul do you want to be the hero to get a radiant floor working that will under perform anyway. With possibly ... Likely upsetting balance to the rest of the system? Which may rear its head only in certain scenarios.
If anything run your supply/return back to the boiler for the radiant with a mixing valve, and add a rad to the bath where it was tied in before....it's going to need it with that heat loss.
Is the floor insulated?
Rich doing as you say with a floor that does not meet the load don't you think it's going to run for long periods over heating other rooms? This radiant loop is near the end of the run.
@ November 15, 2013 8:13 PM in Good Advice?Using that method will get you to buy a bigger boiler thus put more money in thier pocket.....Perfect.
Never mind envelope construction you dont need all that.