Joined on October 13, 2004
Last Post on March 8, 2014
@ February 8, 2014 6:59 PM in Radiant heat zone not letting water flowDid you after opening the system?
Is the zone valve oriented correctly?
Yes air in the line would be an issue. This would cause the loop not to flow, or be air bound.
You need to bump the pressure up with your water feed valve to about 25psi, and bleed the pipes.
If your piping allows you to isolate the boiler you can power purge under higher pressure.
@ February 8, 2014 6:51 PM in WM Eco BoilersCan that be extended to a location else where in the home? If not I like that idea........in the right hands, or with limited home owner access.
@ February 8, 2014 5:17 PM in Electric heat, or infra-redis still 3 prong 110v Kurt, and over loads the Kill-A-Watt. Usually all standard portable eletric spot heaters are rated for 15 amps. Just for the reason they are less likley to pop a breaker in older home wiring scenerios.
@ February 8, 2014 12:25 PM in Modine HW Unit in GarageGlycol has its place, but in this case I would not.
@ February 8, 2014 12:17 PM in New boiler, Insufficent heatNever heard of coating peeling off pex.
@ February 8, 2014 11:35 AM in Electric heat, or infra-red15 amps draw so check your heater.
If you can't find it which like Mark said should be some where on the heater. If new look in the paper work that came with the heater.
@ February 8, 2014 10:28 AM in Electric heat, or infra-redStill involved Chewy.
The meter will tell you how many kilowatts you used in 24 hours or what ever time frame.
Then you have to multiply the kilowatts by your electric rate.
So if you use 10 kilowatts in 24 hours, and your rate after all fees on the bill is 10 cents a kilowatt then your heater costed you 1.00 to run. One kilowatt is 1000 watts.
If you know the wattage of the heater you can do the math if you keep track of the usage time unless it has multiple settings.
@ February 8, 2014 10:21 AM in Electric heat, or infra-redHow many watts is the infra red heater?
@ February 8, 2014 10:19 AM in Electric heat, or infra-redTo buy the meter. Then you can check any 120 volt appliance consumption.
@ February 8, 2014 10:16 AM in Electric heat, or infra-redOn the size Harvey., and the reflective design. If it's concentrated so you have to sit in front of it to gain any benefit then it's not going to do much for MRT.
It's not going to heat much air either.
Ever sit in a ice shanti ice fishing with one of those little Coleman infra red propane heater? They don't do much to heat the shanti basically it's just heating you.
@ February 8, 2014 10:11 AM in Electric heat, or infra-redIf it's 120 volt heater then you can by a kill a watt meter plugs into the wall, and heater plugs into that. There's a window that tells how many watts appliance is using, and how many hours it was on, and I believe total usage for 24 hour period. 20 bucks.
@ February 8, 2014 10:08 AM in Electric heat, or infra-redThe electric company uses last years consumption to estimate this years usage as to what ever months correlate.
What happens in this type of a heating season with more heating degree days the estimate falls way short. Then when the reading comes in that month makes up for any short fall of the prior estimated month. This could be confusing things also.
If your usage patterns have been the same as always then you can bank on the colder than normal conditions are causing your increase.
Yes the dryer will bump things up a bit an electric dryer uses up around 5KW .
Look at the circuit breaker for your base board if it's 20 amp single pole breaker it can use as much as 2400 watts that's the capacity of the breaker 120Volts x 20 Amps= 2400 watts.
If it's a double pole breaker then it's 240 Volts x 20 Amps= 4800 watts.
Your breaker size may be bigger depending on how many base board sections are on a circuit.
@ February 8, 2014 9:38 AM in New boiler, Insufficent heatYour like a Doctor, and sometimes your like a Veterinarian Rich.
@ February 8, 2014 12:02 AM in Electric heat, or infra-redThe infra red heater is like radiant heating in that it heats objects. Your electric baseboards work by convection heating the air, and causing circulation by pulling cooler air through the bottom of the base board, and heating it. The resulting heated air rises, and so the circulation goes.
You need to do the heating degree day comparison as SWEI posted to get a grip on the costs. The infra red may be costing you more on that with the other rooms base boards turned off it's doing more work. It's all electric one method is not cheaper to run than the other. Your just seeing a higher bill because it's colder.
@ February 4, 2014 8:44 PM in Measuring and graphing indoor tempsHow to decipher the graph as to temp trying to hold..
You do not hold your set point for very long periods. You can flatten out the peaks, and valleys by a tighter swing in the thermostat. Plus be more comfortable.
This is also an indicator of insulation upgrades.
Before we go to far with this where are the sensors? Are they effected by solar gain which appears to be no.
@ February 4, 2014 7:04 PM in Measuring and graphing indoor tempsSet at for room temps?
@ February 2, 2014 11:49 PM in Hot water baseboard heatingPlease take Rich's advice. Get a competent contractor in there to access your whole envelope, and heating system so as they can come up with the most economical, and efficient solution.
@ February 2, 2014 11:37 PM in Hot water baseboard heatingIt is but it's marginal. Now I understand why.
Did not add up in the fact of the heat loss being in the 40k ish range, and a boiler with 73k doe.
I think the installer just let it rip full fire to keep peace, and all mod/con efficiency is lost. Purely speculation on my part
What they have is a living space inside a refrigerator, that is inside a freezer so to speak.
@ February 2, 2014 11:27 AM in Hot water baseboard heatingYou have some of the best hydronic heating minds in the country excluding myself helping you.
All these little pieces of information get lost, or get harder to put together. The longer the thread gets the harder it becomes. The original problem was insufficient DHW, and tthings evolved from there. Trying to put together extracted information with offered information.
So the offer to install the 105 came after the heat loss calculation from an outside source.
And as far as the basement goes not many are in the 40's, upper 50's low 60's yes. I will add you could have a zone for the main floor with emitter in the basement off that particular zone.
As far as I'm concerned your project needs to have a heat loss done of ALL spaces.
Then an emitter check, and installation of proper amount of emitter sized to the load of each room. Then a boiler output that matches the load. Maybe the 80 is still big enough won't know with out the heat loss is done.
The basement won't need ceiling insulation if you condition the space. If you don't then yes you need to insulate the floor. You have to decide.
@ February 2, 2014 10:38 AM in Hot water baseboard heatingNow you are telling us the installer sized the boiler to the installed emitters, and Installed the 80. THEN did a heat loss calc?
Start over. I'm dizzy
@ February 2, 2014 1:03 AM in Hot water baseboard heatingThe fireplace insulation problem at all. There are all kinds of ways to detail out a fireplace, or wood burner heated room with insulation......unless this wood burning fireplace is some kind of code violation.
A question comes to mind reading your statements about insulation. Was the installer of the boiler under the impression the insulation was going to be done?