Joined on November 23, 2004
Last Post on April 1, 2010
@ April 1, 2010 12:57 PM in System Design - Hydroair plus RadiantThanks again for all the comments. We will certainly plan to get another opinion, from someone more familiar with radiant, and of course, do a proper heat loss calculation for sizing the boiler and emitters. I am still skeptical of hydro-air and have the impression that keeping the CI radiators on 2nd and 3rd levels will go nicely with ODR and lower temps, which is an agreeable scenario for pairing with radiant on the 1st level.
I have also heard mixed reviews of W/M Ultra, and will look into other boilers such as Lochinvar, Buderus GB and TT Prestige. Viessman may be a bit out of price range. I am a fan of sophisticated and integrated control strategy and would prefer something highly customizable. I love the controls on my Buderus G215 boiler in our current house. Any opinions about the choice of boiler for this kind of application would be much appreciated!
@ March 29, 2010 1:53 PM in System Design - Hydroair plus RadiantThanks for all your thoughts. So....the house currently has standing cast iron rads throughout (which I know are great). I guess my only beef with them--and maybe this is not completely legitimate--is how they will look in a modernized space, as well as the loss of floor and wall space. I'm also concerned that repiping would be very painful if I ever decided to replace them with something like panel radiators, especially with supply and return on the same side of the panel.
You're right, I dont want to rely on a guess about heat loss to the 2nd and 3rd floors. My main take away here is to get a real heat loss done, and size the boiler and emitters properly--whether they be panels, rads or ducts. Proper sizing and install is more important than whether to choose WM Ultra versus Lochinvar.
Thanks again, Dan
@ March 29, 2010 10:00 AM in System Design - Hydroair plus RadiantI've lived in an old house for a long time and dont know much about modern systems that would go into new construction--looking to get a reality check and a bit of education about the considerations for new systems.
We are renovating an old house down to the frame--it will be a tight envelope with new windows, doors, icynene, etc. There will be 3 floors plus finished basement, approx 4000+ sf when all said and done with various additions. Our HVAC contractor proposed hydroair mainly because he says its a small incremental cost to add coils onto the AC ductwork that will be installed anyway. I've always lived in a house with radiators, so I am a bit skeptical of hydro-air. After discussing some more about comfort and efficiency, he thinks we can do radiant loops for the entire main level, which will be an open floor plan design, and that the 1st floor will act as a giant efficient radiator and the heat will rise to 2nd and 3rd floors. He thinks hydroair will work sufficiently to supplement as needed on those levels. He thinks panel radiators would be overkill on 2nd and 3rd levels. we would also do radiant in basement since we are replacing the slab, and cost would be about the same as baseboard in that scenario. For the radiant system, he proposed loops hung in aluminum "tracks" between joists (not sure if he meant extruded plates) with foil backed insulation and a small air gap. We did not discuss loop length or size of PEX.
He proposed a W/M Ultra to supply the heat. He thinks ODR will be well-matched with radiant on 1st level, but not so much with hydroair because temps will be higher and variable speed fan will do a lot of modulating based on call for heat. I asked him to do a formal heat loss calc and he said certainly will do that, but not as worried about being too exact because modulating boiler will adjust itself accordingly.
He proposed running the vent through the roof to keep the appearance of condensation out of the way, and he did seem very sensitive to making sure there is nice neat piping with lots of shutoffs for service.
Does this sound reasonable or not....I'm sure I am not stating the design 100% accurately...are there any red flags with such a hybrid design that I should be asking about?
@ March 25, 2010 10:50 AM in BPA in CPVC?Anyone following the BPA controversy....do you guys have an opinion about using CPVC versus copper for DHW applications? Is there any evidence that CPVC contains BPA, and do you feel strongly one way or the other--or do you have customers who request one versus the other?
I'm trying to understand the specific concerns, so I can be more informed about my own construction project.
@ February 4, 2010 2:11 PM in Fuel oil mistakeWhat you have here is a case of what they call "contributory negligence"--everyone is to blame--the guy who didnt hear the whistle, the installer who didnt remove the fill and the homeowner who didnt discontinue fuel delivery. It will be a lawyer-fest for sure.
@ January 26, 2010 12:52 PM in Hydro AirHi--I am a homeowner, been lurking here for a long time and trying to learn what I can. I am looking at an opportunity to completely gut and rehab an old new england home, and I am trying to get my brain around whether to replace the exisitng heating system. The home currently has hot water heat with standing cast iron emitters and of course needs a boiler upgrade. I would most likely want to upgrade to a condensing gas boiler with reset control strategy and indirect hot water. We also want to install an AC system. I have to assume the existing radiation will become way too much once the house is tightened up with insulation and new windows. What do you guys think of hydro-air in general? Hydro air seems like a good option for a new install where the goal is to utilize same ducting for heat and AC. Can a hydro air system be used with a condensing gas boiler with reset control strategy? Would you totally replace the existing system or would you keep it and add on an AC system? What are the considerations I should be thinking about? What would you guys do in this situation?
Any advice is much appreciated.
@ July 1, 2009 4:42 PM in Burnham Parts in MA?Indeed they do...thanks!
@ July 1, 2009 1:39 PM in Burnham Parts in MA?Anyone know where I can get a replacement grille for a Burnham cast iron radiant radiator in Mass? Actually, the grille is fine, I just need a couple of the retaining clips that hold the grille into place. I'm not a professional and don't know the supply houses that would carry such a thing. Thanks, Dan
@ June 30, 2009 10:23 AM in Software Question (Dan H.)http://www.solidworks.com/
@ March 30, 2009 9:24 PM in down fire Burdaru G215/6I dont know anything about the 215/6 but my 215/4 is downfired by 10%. I was told by Buderus that up to 10% is permissible for this boiler and my heating guy (from The Wall) confirms this.
@ January 29, 2009 12:37 PM in I seem to have a lack of oxygen in the house...UPDATE..Kelly, not sure where you live in MA but try this guy: http://www.erikanthonycustomfireplaces.com/company.html He speciaizes in problem fireplaces and will not try and sell you something you dont need.
@ December 31, 2008 9:02 AM in A question for homeowners (Dan H.)I guess I tend to look at it in the converse--Company Two is charging market rates to get the job done in an industry standard time using reasonable efforts, while Company One is offering to discount for taking longer than industry standard. If all else is equal, I would wonder why Company One can't get it together to do the job in the same time as Company Two. Maybe I need more specific information about what the job entails.
@ December 15, 2008 11:06 AM in Carol Fey's Fascinating Adventure...Check out the documentary film Encounters at the End of the World directed by Werner Herzog, precisely about the same subject. He dives with a camera under the ice from exactly that same diving hut. Some very interesting people do work and research at the Amundsen Scott station.
@ November 3, 2008 5:32 PM in Thermistor ToleranceThat's a good idea. I'm not sure why Buderus doesn't incorporate into the control a way to calibrate the thermistors, given that these things have such a wide margin of error. Is this true of all thermistors used in ODR sensors and digital thermostats, or do I just have a bad one?
@ November 3, 2008 5:16 PM in Thermistor ToleranceI have noticed that my Buderus ODR sensor consistently reports about 4-5 degrees higher than a thermometer placed in the same location. Buderus suggested that the tolerance on these thermistors can be +/- 5 degrees (!) which is surprising to me. They also suggest that wires can sometimes be the cause of the problem, impeding resistence, but frankly mine seem just fine--no staple punctures or anything out of the ordinary. I do not have the equipment to reliably measure resistence of the thermistor and wiring for comparison against the documentation. Have any of you sticklers for accuracy ever encountered this issue with Buderus ODR sensor, and if so, what has been your workaround solution? Have you tried replacing the thermistor or the wiring, or shifting the reset curve to accomodate? Thanks, Dan
@ October 10, 2008 3:19 PM in Buderus ControlsI have the BFU room sensor; it gives you the benefit of constant circulation which I do not believe you get on the 2107 alone, and therefore works great with baseboard or convector type emitters. There are cheaper controls, but the BFU room sensor and 2107 plug and play with Buderus quite nicely.
@ October 8, 2008 9:15 AM in Any able to adjust my burner and draft: Newton, MAI live in Newton, MA. I have been using Rodenhiser plumbing and heating--I was introduced to them through The Wall. They service my Buderus oil boiler, but they also do gas. They are located in the 495 area, but will extend their service area to Newton. http://www.rodenhiser.com/content/view/14/26/
@ September 4, 2008 11:48 AM in Claculating Insulation BenefitThanks for that information--I will try it! You confirmed my suspicion that wall insulation probably will not add much marginal benefit, but I am always in search of scientific support.
@ September 3, 2008 1:22 PM in Claculating Insulation BenefitIm a homeowner, not very math-minded, but trying to quantify the benefit in real dollar terms of adding wall insulation to the house. I have fully insulated attic space, double-paned windows and well sealed entryways--I want to know how much more I would really benefit from adding wall insulation. I can do two separate heat loss calculations with assumption of wall insulation for one, and assumption of zero wall insulation for the other. But then what do I do with that information--how do I turn it into fuel consumption? I have a Buderus G215 with Riello downfired 10%, outdoor reset, indoor sensor, constant circ, indirect tank. Thanks!
@ December 19, 2007 9:38 PM in Free wattI heard an ad for this system on the radio today. Does it work? http://www.climate-energy.com/
@ December 11, 2007 4:19 PM in gas hot water heat boxes making noise?"Heat boxes"....I love it! Simple and descriptive.